Incomparable China: Urban/Rural & Islands
Feb 22nd, 2013, 04:19 AM
#41
Day 14: Yulong River
The next morning, Jack picked us up at 9a and we drove upstream the Yulong River, the one that flows in front of our inn, to get on a smaller bamboo raft that’s poled by the boatman. There’s only room for two of us, so after a 1 1/2 cruise up to Fulli Bridge (600 years old), we got off for a quick look from the top of the bridge to admire the karst scenery. Then, back on for the return trip...a very peaceful and quiet river experience.
Jack met us and was excited to show us a recently born water buffalo calf in a field nearby. I was amazed that the mother let us get so close to the calf. We hiked along more farmers‘ fields and small villages until we met up with our driver. Walking through these orchards and rice paddies, surrounded by karst mountains, is a wonderful way to experience natural China.
After a lunch break at our inn, Jack picked us up again at 3p for what he said was a 1 1/2 hour bike ride. We were provided good bikes and this was a most interesting journey. Some paths were unexpected, but welcome, concrete paths weaving through rice paddies surrounded by towering karsts...I marveled at the beauty. Others were gravely and uneven, especially going through villages where there were other bikes, scooters, tuk tuks, roosters, dogs and people to avoid. The worst was a very narrow path through a high sea of grasses with a bit of a drop off on each side. I had to walk my bike through this, but I do have a balance issue. We walked into an empty classroom, saw the Moon HIll rock formation and really enjoyed, during the first hour or so, a most beautiful ride through gorgeous countryside warmed by the setting sun.
Around the time I thought we were almost done, Jack announced we had another hour. By this time I’m very tired and sweating and the uneven ground and uphills are taking their toll. I carry on until we get to a school near Moon HIll that I recognize from our outbound journey and realize it’s still a long way back. I was exhausted and my foot had already slipped off into the spoke a little and I was afraid I’d injure myself if I kept going. So, we asked Jack if he could leave me there and send a driver to pick me up. He got on his cellphone and arranged the bike vendor to arrive on his little truck in the rice fields to pick up the bikes and we all waited for a tuk tuk to take us back along the roads to the inn, which was surprisingly far and cold as the sun was going down. He was very apologetic that our ride had turned into 2 1/2 hours, but he thought we were up to it because we’d been such good hikers. So, if you’re not a great biker (like me) be clear about your expectations.
We just had time to take a quick shower and a quick dinner at our inn, and Jack was back to take us to the acclaimed “Impressions of Liu Sanjie” light and sound show on the banks of the Li River that lights up the background karsts. The theatre holds 3500 people and it’s bedlam at the entrance, but Jack orchestrated everything perfectly and escorted us to great seats and then met us afterwards to return us to the hotel. He also explained what the story line of the show was and what to expect in each act. I seriously would have hated to buy tickets and enter this venue on my own. We had previously seen the Lijiang Impressions show, but I preferred this one (but my husband preferred the other) This was more beautiful and dazzling, especially the silver women twinkling that looked like a huge, twisting diamond bracelet and the bamboo boatmen gliding along the river with the glistening red fabric that evoked water. We were utterly exhausted when we got back to inn.
We were very happy with Jack, who is a very nice young man and we appreciated his enthusiasm and competence is providing a very unique, private experience that let us experience the natural beauty of the countryside.
Next: Yangshou cooking class and shopping
The next morning, Jack picked us up at 9a and we drove upstream the Yulong River, the one that flows in front of our inn, to get on a smaller bamboo raft that’s poled by the boatman. There’s only room for two of us, so after a 1 1/2 cruise up to Fulli Bridge (600 years old), we got off for a quick look from the top of the bridge to admire the karst scenery. Then, back on for the return trip...a very peaceful and quiet river experience.
Jack met us and was excited to show us a recently born water buffalo calf in a field nearby. I was amazed that the mother let us get so close to the calf. We hiked along more farmers‘ fields and small villages until we met up with our driver. Walking through these orchards and rice paddies, surrounded by karst mountains, is a wonderful way to experience natural China.
After a lunch break at our inn, Jack picked us up again at 3p for what he said was a 1 1/2 hour bike ride. We were provided good bikes and this was a most interesting journey. Some paths were unexpected, but welcome, concrete paths weaving through rice paddies surrounded by towering karsts...I marveled at the beauty. Others were gravely and uneven, especially going through villages where there were other bikes, scooters, tuk tuks, roosters, dogs and people to avoid. The worst was a very narrow path through a high sea of grasses with a bit of a drop off on each side. I had to walk my bike through this, but I do have a balance issue. We walked into an empty classroom, saw the Moon HIll rock formation and really enjoyed, during the first hour or so, a most beautiful ride through gorgeous countryside warmed by the setting sun.
Around the time I thought we were almost done, Jack announced we had another hour. By this time I’m very tired and sweating and the uneven ground and uphills are taking their toll. I carry on until we get to a school near Moon HIll that I recognize from our outbound journey and realize it’s still a long way back. I was exhausted and my foot had already slipped off into the spoke a little and I was afraid I’d injure myself if I kept going. So, we asked Jack if he could leave me there and send a driver to pick me up. He got on his cellphone and arranged the bike vendor to arrive on his little truck in the rice fields to pick up the bikes and we all waited for a tuk tuk to take us back along the roads to the inn, which was surprisingly far and cold as the sun was going down. He was very apologetic that our ride had turned into 2 1/2 hours, but he thought we were up to it because we’d been such good hikers. So, if you’re not a great biker (like me) be clear about your expectations.
We just had time to take a quick shower and a quick dinner at our inn, and Jack was back to take us to the acclaimed “Impressions of Liu Sanjie” light and sound show on the banks of the Li River that lights up the background karsts. The theatre holds 3500 people and it’s bedlam at the entrance, but Jack orchestrated everything perfectly and escorted us to great seats and then met us afterwards to return us to the hotel. He also explained what the story line of the show was and what to expect in each act. I seriously would have hated to buy tickets and enter this venue on my own. We had previously seen the Lijiang Impressions show, but I preferred this one (but my husband preferred the other) This was more beautiful and dazzling, especially the silver women twinkling that looked like a huge, twisting diamond bracelet and the bamboo boatmen gliding along the river with the glistening red fabric that evoked water. We were utterly exhausted when we got back to inn.
We were very happy with Jack, who is a very nice young man and we appreciated his enthusiasm and competence is providing a very unique, private experience that let us experience the natural beauty of the countryside.
Next: Yangshou cooking class and shopping
Feb 22nd, 2013, 05:38 PM
#42
Day 15: Yangshou Cooking School
The Yangshou Cooking School offers a morning class on the banks of the Li River in Yangshou and an afternoon class in the original countryside location. I wanted a morning class so booked that one ahead of time. Jack commented that he thought the countryside location was better, but the timing worked better for me. We were picked up at 9:20 and driven to class. This was the best cooking class we had since it was the most hands on and we cooked items that were more different than the usual stir fries. It was also a bargain at 200 Rmb or about $30 a person including transportation.
We first went to a large covered market where I opted out of visiting the fresh meat/poultry section. Then, we each had a cooking station in a building separate from the dining/reception area with windows that overlooked the Li River. We first made steamed chicken with mushroom that were put in a steamer basket and taken away to steam in a wok for 20 minutes. Then, we made egg wrapped dumplings that were harder to make and delicious. We ate those right away as an appetizer. Next, Eggplant Yangshou style, again excellent, followed by Green vegetables with garlic...just OK; and Stir Fried Pork with Vegetable and Oyster Sauce.....delicious. Of course, we finished with lunch and enjoyed talking with the rest of the travelers. A great value and experience.
Afterwards, we walked back along the Li River to West Street, the main drag, and did some souvenir shopping. I found a Sun Lu CD that I had listened to at the Linden Centre and I really liked her lovely, more contemporary love songs accompanied by traditional instruments. We also found a patisserie with excellent chocolate cake that we took back to our inn to enjoy along the banks of the Yulong river with cappuccino. All in all, a perfect day and a perfect end to our Yangshou experience.
I’ll post these photos soon.
Next: Shanghai
The Yangshou Cooking School offers a morning class on the banks of the Li River in Yangshou and an afternoon class in the original countryside location. I wanted a morning class so booked that one ahead of time. Jack commented that he thought the countryside location was better, but the timing worked better for me. We were picked up at 9:20 and driven to class. This was the best cooking class we had since it was the most hands on and we cooked items that were more different than the usual stir fries. It was also a bargain at 200 Rmb or about $30 a person including transportation.
We first went to a large covered market where I opted out of visiting the fresh meat/poultry section. Then, we each had a cooking station in a building separate from the dining/reception area with windows that overlooked the Li River. We first made steamed chicken with mushroom that were put in a steamer basket and taken away to steam in a wok for 20 minutes. Then, we made egg wrapped dumplings that were harder to make and delicious. We ate those right away as an appetizer. Next, Eggplant Yangshou style, again excellent, followed by Green vegetables with garlic...just OK; and Stir Fried Pork with Vegetable and Oyster Sauce.....delicious. Of course, we finished with lunch and enjoyed talking with the rest of the travelers. A great value and experience.
Afterwards, we walked back along the Li River to West Street, the main drag, and did some souvenir shopping. I found a Sun Lu CD that I had listened to at the Linden Centre and I really liked her lovely, more contemporary love songs accompanied by traditional instruments. We also found a patisserie with excellent chocolate cake that we took back to our inn to enjoy along the banks of the Yulong river with cappuccino. All in all, a perfect day and a perfect end to our Yangshou experience.
I’ll post these photos soon.
Next: Shanghai
Feb 24th, 2013, 03:41 PM
#48
Thanks so much Marija, Shanghainese & dgunbug,
I think you all know the feeling of writing and writing without a comment and you wonder if it's worth it.
Shanghainese, I really wanted to buy some Chinese Air lanterns (there was a recent special on Groupon) ...for those of you who don't know what they are....they're biodegradable and you light a little candle and they are airborne for about 15 minutes....but in many States they're illegal as a fire hazard..many people have thought they saw USO's...and I just read they're banned in Sanya because they're in the flight path....but they look so cool! So, happy Lantern Festival if you have the land based ones!
I think you all know the feeling of writing and writing without a comment and you wonder if it's worth it.
Shanghainese, I really wanted to buy some Chinese Air lanterns (there was a recent special on Groupon) ...for those of you who don't know what they are....they're biodegradable and you light a little candle and they are airborne for about 15 minutes....but in many States they're illegal as a fire hazard..many people have thought they saw USO's...and I just read they're banned in Sanya because they're in the flight path....but they look so cool! So, happy Lantern Festival if you have the land based ones!
Feb 24th, 2013, 05:13 PM
#49
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Barefoot - I understand the difficulty in writing without feedback. For those reading this and other trip reports, please know that the smallest comments are greatly appreciated as is a mere grunt to let the writer know you are reading along.
Feb 25th, 2013, 07:27 AM
#51
laurie_ann, I'd look at their website and under the heading "Plan Your Stay" you can browse through their themed cultural programs, which are group things related to a particular interest like cooking or photography, or they also list a lot of possible activities that you can customize to meet your needs under "short stays". They have a 3 night minimum for those programs and you'll Skype with one of their staff to figure out what you'd like to do. We stayed 4 nights and I thought that was the right amount of time. Hope this helps.
Feb 25th, 2013, 07:27 AM
#52
You can view my photos from Yangshou on this link:
http://barefootbeach.smugmug.com/Oth...8162617_vKChvt
http://barefootbeach.smugmug.com/Oth...8162617_vKChvt
Feb 28th, 2013, 07:23 AM
#55
laurie_ann,
Re: the Linden Centre,
I'd also go into Dali for dinner one night, something we didn't do. That way you could try a different type of restaurant since dinner at Linden did get a little repetitive. I also wish we'd walked around the village more by ourselves...but, if you go biking, take a guide with you!
Re: the Linden Centre,
I'd also go into Dali for dinner one night, something we didn't do. That way you could try a different type of restaurant since dinner at Linden did get a little repetitive. I also wish we'd walked around the village more by ourselves...but, if you go biking, take a guide with you!
Feb 28th, 2013, 04:07 PM
#56
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Lovely pictures. I'm enjoying your posts. Brings back memories of our 2007 trip.
My daughter lives in Shekou-about 30 minutes from Hong Kong. She says it's very rare to find an apartment to rent with an oven in the kitchen. The Chinese don't bake as a rule.
My daughter lives in Shekou-about 30 minutes from Hong Kong. She says it's very rare to find an apartment to rent with an oven in the kitchen. The Chinese don't bake as a rule.
Mar 10th, 2013, 01:48 PM
#58
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Warm greetings again barefootbeach, and thank you for your wonderful writing; just had a chance to catch up with your report on this fine San Francisco Sunday.
Looking forward to more; particularly your Shanghai impressions, as I had the privilege of experiencing a very small slice of that city early last month during a business trip. (Sadly, like most of my Asia working trips, it largely entailed an office building, a hotel - Pudong Shangri-La; rather large property, but such marvelous staff, amenities and views - and an airport.) At present, scheduled to return to Shanghai for additional meetings in May; your thoughtful impressions, always most appreciated.
[And if my memory serves correct, you stayed at that cherished Peninsula hotel in Bangkok during an earlier Asian holiday. You had enquired about traditional Thai "Khim" music, and I suggested the gift shop at the nearby Shangri-La. At the time, fine selection of music at that little place.]
Always fun, reading thoughtful trip reports like yours during breaks in business trips. (Also looking forward to your Hong Kong impressions, as will be returning to that fine city for meetings at week's end.) Should you ever desire lodging (and airline) suggestions in our fine home of Singapore, pleased to assist.
Thanks again barefoot,
macintosh (robert)
... Singapore Airlines, You're a Great Way to Fly ...
Looking forward to more; particularly your Shanghai impressions, as I had the privilege of experiencing a very small slice of that city early last month during a business trip. (Sadly, like most of my Asia working trips, it largely entailed an office building, a hotel - Pudong Shangri-La; rather large property, but such marvelous staff, amenities and views - and an airport.) At present, scheduled to return to Shanghai for additional meetings in May; your thoughtful impressions, always most appreciated.
[And if my memory serves correct, you stayed at that cherished Peninsula hotel in Bangkok during an earlier Asian holiday. You had enquired about traditional Thai "Khim" music, and I suggested the gift shop at the nearby Shangri-La. At the time, fine selection of music at that little place.]
Always fun, reading thoughtful trip reports like yours during breaks in business trips. (Also looking forward to your Hong Kong impressions, as will be returning to that fine city for meetings at week's end.) Should you ever desire lodging (and airline) suggestions in our fine home of Singapore, pleased to assist.
Thanks again barefoot,
macintosh (robert)
... Singapore Airlines, You're a Great Way to Fly ...
Mar 11th, 2013, 09:24 PM
#59
Hi Robert,
very good to hear from you again!
I will try to get to Shanghai soon, but just returned from a domestic trip so have much to do first.
I hope to get to Singapore someday and I'll be sure to ask for your recommendations! Hope you enjoyed San Fran....I just got back from San Diego but the weather was marginal!
very good to hear from you again!
I will try to get to Shanghai soon, but just returned from a domestic trip so have much to do first.
I hope to get to Singapore someday and I'll be sure to ask for your recommendations! Hope you enjoyed San Fran....I just got back from San Diego but the weather was marginal!
Mar 17th, 2013, 04:09 PM
#60
Day 16: Shanghai
Shanghai blew me away with it’s fascinating night time views along the Bund. I’m definitely in the camp of loving Shanghai more than Beijing although we really just scratched the surface of both cities.
We were picked up at the Shanghai airport by Bob, from China HIghlights, who would be our guide in a few days for our day trip to the water towns, Suzhou and Tongli. A note about domestic flights, they usually change, but in our case, for the better, so instead of our scheduled late night arrival we got in mid-afternoon, and drove through the heaviest traffic we’d experienced to our hotel, Les Suites Orient on the Bund.
When we walked into our corner studio suite, we gasped at the views from the bedroom across the river to the futuristic Pudong skyline and also from the bathroom with a view up the curving Bund side with it’s classical and neo-classical Western style architecture. The bathroom’s views were really amazing because you could look up the Bund, from the bathtub’s picture window, while seeing the whole Pudong skyline reflected in the large mirror over the sink so it seemed like you got a panoramic view. When you factor in one of those new combination toilet/bidet things with heated seat, an LCD TV over the marble bath tub, and a marble rain shower, I was in heaven! Just a few more notes about the hotel...it was relatively reasonably priced...technically located just south of the Bund...the entrance is non-descript, there’s not much of a lobby, and the concierge didn’t seem that helpful..but if you want a modern, luxurious room with amazing views and a great location...it’s a find. The room itself wasn’t large but was laid out very efficiently. From the very comfortable bed, you could raise and lower the window shades, control the larger LCD TV in the bedroom, and control the lights & dimmers. Breakfast was included and also very good.
Our first order of business was to walk north along the Bund to enjoy the art deco ambience of a gorgeous city promenade. We walked all the way to the Hyatt and wanted to have a cocktail at the Vue Bar, but it was 5p and the bar didn’t open until 6p....really??! So, on the way back we stopped at the Peninsula Hotel and sat outside on the 4th floor terrace at Sir Elly’s to enjoy a cocktail and marvel at the evolving light show that entertained us on the sides of the Pudong skyscrapers and the ever changing colored lights of the tourist boats that ply the river. The scene puts Disney to shame!
As I’d been craving Western food for awhile, I knew I could get my fix in Shanghai. We took a taxi to the French concession area to eat at Mr. Willis, a casually upscale bistro type establishment, that had lost my reservation, but still managed to cram us into their busy Friday night. I thought the food was excellent...an Australian braised lamb shank and a salmon dish.
Of course, the evening always ends with enjoying the most incredible lighting spectacle I’ve ever seen.
Shanghai blew me away with it’s fascinating night time views along the Bund. I’m definitely in the camp of loving Shanghai more than Beijing although we really just scratched the surface of both cities.
We were picked up at the Shanghai airport by Bob, from China HIghlights, who would be our guide in a few days for our day trip to the water towns, Suzhou and Tongli. A note about domestic flights, they usually change, but in our case, for the better, so instead of our scheduled late night arrival we got in mid-afternoon, and drove through the heaviest traffic we’d experienced to our hotel, Les Suites Orient on the Bund.
When we walked into our corner studio suite, we gasped at the views from the bedroom across the river to the futuristic Pudong skyline and also from the bathroom with a view up the curving Bund side with it’s classical and neo-classical Western style architecture. The bathroom’s views were really amazing because you could look up the Bund, from the bathtub’s picture window, while seeing the whole Pudong skyline reflected in the large mirror over the sink so it seemed like you got a panoramic view. When you factor in one of those new combination toilet/bidet things with heated seat, an LCD TV over the marble bath tub, and a marble rain shower, I was in heaven! Just a few more notes about the hotel...it was relatively reasonably priced...technically located just south of the Bund...the entrance is non-descript, there’s not much of a lobby, and the concierge didn’t seem that helpful..but if you want a modern, luxurious room with amazing views and a great location...it’s a find. The room itself wasn’t large but was laid out very efficiently. From the very comfortable bed, you could raise and lower the window shades, control the larger LCD TV in the bedroom, and control the lights & dimmers. Breakfast was included and also very good.
Our first order of business was to walk north along the Bund to enjoy the art deco ambience of a gorgeous city promenade. We walked all the way to the Hyatt and wanted to have a cocktail at the Vue Bar, but it was 5p and the bar didn’t open until 6p....really??! So, on the way back we stopped at the Peninsula Hotel and sat outside on the 4th floor terrace at Sir Elly’s to enjoy a cocktail and marvel at the evolving light show that entertained us on the sides of the Pudong skyscrapers and the ever changing colored lights of the tourist boats that ply the river. The scene puts Disney to shame!
As I’d been craving Western food for awhile, I knew I could get my fix in Shanghai. We took a taxi to the French concession area to eat at Mr. Willis, a casually upscale bistro type establishment, that had lost my reservation, but still managed to cram us into their busy Friday night. I thought the food was excellent...an Australian braised lamb shank and a salmon dish.
Of course, the evening always ends with enjoying the most incredible lighting spectacle I’ve ever seen.
