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hip here - reporting in from thailand

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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 05:54 AM
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hip here - reporting in from thailand

Message: Hello to everyone and thanks to those helping with our travel plans! Special hello to Bob who suggested I post while in Thailand It's day 3 in Phuket, it's gorgeous and hot. I will report more on our exhausting flights on the airline forum, including getting bumped, lied too, racing to make connection and luggage getting lost. 32 hours and "cankles" later, we made it. On the lighter side, we definitely picked the best destination to cool off and begin our adventure. Day 1 we transferred to our hotel, South Sea Resort on Karon Beach. Very friendly staff, nice pool, straight across from the beach, decent (not deluxe) accomodations. Good buffet breakfast. We would stay here again. Very convenient. We took it very easy, just relaxing and walking up and down the beach, around Karon Circle and having dinner at an unnamed outdoor restaurant. We were up pretty late and took up massages at Karon Circle before bed (1 hour for B300). Day 2 - Up at 6:15am (me) my 2 girlfriends followed shortly. Very peaceful this time of day! Took a taxi to Kata Center, did some shopping and booked a tour to Raya and Kai via speeadboat for some snorkeling off boat and islands including lunch. Tour was 11-4 including lunch and snacks for B800. Not a huge variety of fish, but lots of them. The crew was fun and keep the trip lively. We met a lot of fun people from different countries and exchanged stories and had a great time. A lot of 1/2 trips are not running because they're underbooked and trying to get the full day trips booked. We were to go to Phi Phi, but no snorkeling at this time, only walking tours. The appearance here on Phuket just looks like some construction is going on in some places. You would not know what happened if you were not already aware. Everyone we've met is in good spirits. At night went to Simon Cabaret. The ladyboys were beautiful and I was very impressed with the show. Great routines, costumes, a ton of fun! Unfortunately, the audience was only about 15% full, and I could see (at least I think I could) the disappointment in their faces because they really do put their all in the show. I highly recommend it. No food or drinks (only water) for B600. We had dinner at a great open restaurant a little south of Patong beach with an enormous menu. We had to go for the Pina Coladas in Coconut shell with a fabulous view of the beach. Went to Patong after that. Check out some shops and Go-Go dancers a little. There was much excitement there and it was busy, but a little depressing for my friends and I. It's tough realizing some of the action that goes on there. After that, we drug ourselves home and passed out. I slept with my feet elevated to try to bring down the "cankles". Woke up this morning at 7:15 to find it help dramatically so I'm happy! Well, it's time to log off. I'm to get a foot and calf massage then head to hotel for pick up and transfer for John Gray sea canoe starlight hong tour. I've been looking forward to this the most for our Phuket time so I'm ready! I will report back on my ability, or inability, to conquer my claustrophobia and get through some of the tight entrances of the caves (YIKES?), otherwise, I think it will be fantastic! Tomorrow, we transfer to Chiang Rai for our stay at the Anantara. Hope to log on again. Until then...
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 06:09 AM
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patrick (on the U.S. board) was kind enough to let me know i might want to move my above post to the asia board. arrgh! what jet lag will do to you! back to the report...john gray sea-canoe was the awesome!!!! i highly recommend the starlight tour. our rower, "ping pong" was great! they train for 6 months before being able to guide riders through the caves and hongs. nothing like i've ever seen or experience before. just incredible! we made katong (sp?) near the end of the trip and set them afloat. we had about 30 eagles circling the boat while feeding, saw some hornbills and other creatures. i think we were too noisy for the mcau's to let us near. the scenery was breathtaking and the food was great! yesterday, we transferred flew to chiang rai without a hitch. after walking the fabulous grounds (would love to live here!) we took in some lovely dinner at the thai restaurant and then i enjoyed a massage at the spa. although expensive, it makes you feel good and special the room is beautiful and the balcony view spectacular. the tub, large enough for 6 people today, our guide "daeng" and driver (which i found through people in touch) was the best! i have a direct e-mail for him which i will post when i have it on hand. we did a border crossing to laos, myanmar, went to jade factory, long neck tribe, miscellaneous off road points and the monkey cave. some of this may sound touristy, but either way, we had a blast and learned soooo much from our guide. i hope others will give him a try. transport was in a nice a/c van and very helpful for anything you're interested in. i will post more about the places visited when i have more time to do a detailed report. there was a special "khan toke dinner" tonight which features musicians and a set, several course dinner. it was thai style seating and centered around the upper pool. everything was just gorgeous. must get to bed soon as i have cooking class early in morning and elephant walk after. again, thanks to every fodorite for advice!
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 06:46 AM
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It sounds like you are having a great time! I'm delighted. Isn't the setting of the Anantara gorgeous?
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 10:18 AM
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Sounds you are having fun, I was down there 1.5 weeks back and reported that it was reasonablt busy though not as much as usual.
If you are still around walk up from Karon Circle, about 150-170 metres(yards) on your left red and gold sign "Red Onion" restaurant, open sided, great Thai food, lovely service, try the Duck and the Masaman Curry, world famous(!)

Simon has always been great, in busy season was 3 shows a night, it really is a must see, hope you had your photos taken(?) Great show and great people too.
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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Don't eat at the 'Chilli", it's along to the south of you at the entrance for the Old Phuket Hotel, we had a loussy meal! If you go along past the Hilton Arcadia on your left where there is a long wall is "Old Sima", great terrace location with excellent view, nice food, ideal place to watch the sun go down. If you want a late night spot try 'Safari", it's at the peak of the hill between Karon and Patong on the left when coming from Karon just before the road drops down towards Simon, gets buy late, if you want a jungle style pub atmosphere with music you'll probably like it.
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 10:23 AM
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Typo: for Old Sima read "Old Siam"
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 05:22 PM
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kathie -- i'm in love with anantara! i just can't say enough. the grounds and rolling hills are out of this world! the infiniti pool, wow! the people are wonderful, not forced but naturally. i've been told not as many rooms sold right now, the tsunami seems to have taken it's toll on all areas of thailand tourism. i'm on break from the cooking class right now. we went down to chang saen morning market and asked a lot of questions about the different produce, etc. our chef, nan, bought a couple of things we showed interest in so we could give a try (some jelly apples and spring rolls, but not fried, the raw kind of rice noodle wrapping) and thai coffee. i'm not a picky eater and have enjoyed everything so far! on the way back to the hotel we stopped to make a spirit blessing and will meet back for cooking in 1 hour. some people said the food was too spicy at the dinner last night, but it was perfect for me the wine helped sitting in the lotus position through diner a little more comfortable afterwards, the lit up some of those big lanterns that fly up into the sky (i can't remember the name of them). the breakfast buffet is wonderful here. everything from made to order omelets and many other western items, to thai dishes (this morning there was chicken with macadamia and cashews, pineapple fried rice, and many others). yum!

jamesa - we are no longer in phuket, but thank you for your consideration of recommendations. i did take your previous postings into my notes for the trip. unfortunately, just not enough time to fit everything in, but we will be back! hopefully we'll get to koh samui next time as well. i did see the "red onion", but we did not eat there. contemplated "chili" but now glad we didn't . that's all for now, back to the fun!
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 07:16 PM
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And I'm so glad you are taking the cooking class. We were at the Anantara right after they opened and were the first people to take the cooking class. What a treat! I'm glad you're having a great time. I loved the Anantara and would be glad to return any time.
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Old Feb 28th, 2005 | 08:27 PM
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hip---all sounds great...glad you are liking it...can you add a little about you air experiences here as some of us do not look at the airline site....i don't even know where it is...sorry you had problems...

one of my fondest thai memories is the cooking class at anantara...the chef is just fabulous and funny....well worth the $$...;

bkk next?? it will be a real step back for the royal river but you will enjoy bkk....

looking forward to more reports...

bob....its snowing here yet again...enough is enough...enjoy the heat...
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Old Mar 1st, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Hipvirgochick,
It looks like your trip is great!
How did you book your John Gray sea canoe experience? Is this the same as sea canoe?
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Old Mar 7th, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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anantara - continued: the cooking class was a blast. nan was able to give us personal attention as there were only 2 of us! probably more chaotic fun if there were more, but as i mentioned, still a little slow there. fyi, they are only doing cooking classes 4 days a week now as well. we made khow soy gai (chicken curry soup), phad thai goong (with prawns) and guay tiew na goong (wide rice noodles stir fried with prawns). it was fun trying everything and everything turned out great (nan's was the best came home with the apron, spices, recipes and even made a special trip to see him that night as he gave me a copy of his "special" curry recipes. afterwards we went on our elephant walk. it was interesting how the mahouts make the feet movements and verbal commands and the elephants seem ok with that we went to watch the elephants bathe in the river after the walk, and although we hadn't intended too, we jumped in along with them and poured buckets of water over them and splashed around. it was a rush being so close to something so enormous rolling around in the water! we got some great pics. after that i realized i hadn't even made it to the pool yet, so decided to hang out there with my new friends while my girlfriends went off to town for dinner. the pool is gorgeous, however very cold! the next morning we got up early for our last breakfast and walked the grounds to take some last minute photos. next stop...bangkok!

joh - booked phangna kayak trip (starlight tour) through john gray's website, not the same as sea canoe. it was a highlight of our trip. pictures can't do it justice. we added a 3rd person when we were there and it was the same price, 3,450B and well worth it!

bob - will post airline snafu's shortly!

guide in golden triangle - Mr. Daeng: [email protected] (we booked through people in touch, and they hired mr. daeng. he said it's better $ for him if you contact him directly). it sounds like he'll take you just about anywhere you want to go in thailand, china, or...? he was fun, informative and spoke excellent english.

more to come...
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Old Mar 7th, 2005 | 05:37 PM
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hi hip virgo....
great report..we drove past anantara but didnt stay there...and we are returning to northern thailand in october. did you go to the opium museum? did you cross into lao on the longtail boat trip?
i look forward to your next posts...

where is the airline forum????
i have never seen it..
thanks
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Old Mar 7th, 2005 | 06:05 PM
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divediva -- if you sign up for anantara updates on tripadvisor.com, they will send out special offers. anantara itself just had a special of $125++, including breakfast, for a twin (which i consider a steal). at the time we booked the best rates we found were on thaihotelslinks.com.

i made it to the opium museum, but not inside. just not enough time. one of my friends made it and said it was great.

we made it to both laos and myanmar and thought they were fun and interesting adventures. laos offers liquor with snakes and/or scorpions upon arrival. one of my friends and our guide opted for a shot. me, too sqeamish we went fairly early in the morning so it was pretty quiet still, didn't buy too much (a few ceramic knick-knacks), but enjoyed wandering around the stalls. in myanmar it was a little more crowded, and more people asking for money. generally a friendly place, but not really good for shopping. many stalls had the same things over and over again and with gadgets probably made in china, not handicrafts.

i regret i did not buy more in the jade factory. i thought i would run into similar items in quality and price in bangkok and did not, either because i did not go to the right places, or was not available, i'm not sure. i put 2 small pendants together on a silver chain and was very happy with it, even happier to find they bargain there. they have every quality of jade as well as sapphires and rubies and they can set a stone for you in a day.

we did all of the above and more with our driver and guide "daeng" (e-mail above). the driver doesn't speak too much english so a guide is needed if you want to be able to ask a lot of questions. at a total of 2,500B for the day for 3 of us, it was well worth the expense of not having to drive or find our way on our own

you can find the airlines forum up on the top left where you can click on the area to change forums. i will be posting here though, as it sounds like a lot of people are unaware it exists!

lucky you to be going back so soon!

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Old Mar 9th, 2005 | 11:35 AM
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before my report on bangkok - i must not forget to mention the spa at anantara. how could i? it was as heavenly as resort itself. top knotch facilities and massage, excellent customer service. it was not inexpensive as in other areas, but oh what a treat! they have outdoor options by the pool as well. lovely!

i had to wait until back in the usa finish up this post as we just got so busy once in the city. ratt was just as wonderful as everyone says. she picked us up at the airport and we dropped off the car full of luggage at hotel and proceeded to the grand palace. i agree with fodorites that there are many things you can do yourself and do not need a driver, however, ratt is such great company and full of information it was a pleasure to have her for a day and a 1/2. it was topping 100 degrees and the humidity made it feel like we were wearing a sponge (ick), so it was a nice retreat to ratt's a/c car and cooler as needed! the grand palace is a must and can't be described in words or pictures, but is just enormous, fabulous and filled with history. with the entry fee, you may visit the teak mansion which has thai dancing at 10:30am and 2:00pm. as mentioned, the touts try to deter you from going straight in for various reasons, ignore and head through the gate! wat po is wonderful too, and we were able to meet at 5:00pm in the temple of the principal buddha (not reclining buddha) while the monks chanted. we chose to use the audio guide for the grand palace which was fine for us, and although ratt is not a guide, she's able to provide plenty of answers. we visited chinatown, oriental place, river city and finished up at harmonique for dinner, which is a funky little place with lots of character and great food. what was especially nice about having ratt is getting bits of pieces of information about the city wherever we went, that we would not have if on our own.

the next day ratt picked us up at 7:00am for the damnoen floating market. it was a lot of fun and not a lot of tourists when we arrived. there were a few good places to buy things and ratt helped us with negotiating tips. unfortunately we were full from breakfast and did not try many of the foods that were offered from the boats, but many looked yummy! go with an empty stomach! we stopped by the thai handicrafts and looked around at the hand carvings and furniture, but didn't buy too much. passed on river kwai and rose garden, etc. and headed back to jim thompson house. the house was amazing and a place i'd certainly want to live! the history on jt is interesting and i learned a little before leaving the u.s. the house is well worth a visit. jt store was a little on the high end, we opted for the outlet and purchased a few items, but many items at the store were not available at the outlet, so best buy what you really like. we stopped here and there throughout the day and ended up at health-something for a 2-hour thai massage. 350B or 450B for private room. heavenly! at the end of the day we did not want to give up ratt! she became our friend and the cutest woman you ever will meet! we may just stay at her bed and breakfast next vist. stopped in at a tailor near our hotel to find out about getting some clothes made. nothing like waiting until the last minute! for pants, jacket, skirt and 2 blouses for $115 US, what the heck? many materials to choose from, and to my delight many styles to choose from. everything turned out very nice. the problem is, the baby blue color that looks so good on me, well, i can't get the vision of "the wedding singer" out of my head, so i'm not sure if it will make it to the office. choose your colors carefully the other pieces are great! we had dinner in the hotel that night which was quite entertaining considering our waiter had more than a few to drink and could hardly speak or remember our order. too funny!

last day and up early for fitting, and then to schedule our last fitting for 11:30pm that night. oh joy! skipped happily off to jatujak and what an experience that was! be prepared to wander aimlessly. i had nancy chandler's map, but decided to wing it. it was fun! we bargained as well as we were able and brought back armloads of stuff. talk about one-stop shopping! we met so many nice people on the trip, that was really a great part of thailand. dropped stuff at hotel and packed for our 4:15am wake up call the next morning . walked over the bridge from our hotel and went to the restaurant on the river bob recommended (can't remember the name). there many very thai choices and we ordered a table full considering it was our last night. everything was excellent and we fed leftovers to the house kitties the two of us decided to explore patpong. it was all it's cracked up to be, the looky-looky shows and everything. we didn't plan on buying a lot, but found the prices were pretty good after bargaining hard. couldn't believe the mark-up's here. we were getting good at knowing what things went for, and at patpong bought things for 30% the asking price, when before we were too timid to offer less than 50%. finished up at an outdoor restaurant, debated crossing off "taking a tuk-tuk" off our list, but opted for a taxi, wouldn't use meter, took a 2nd taxi went in for our last fitting at 11:30pm, tailor dropped at reception sometime between then and 5:00am when we left for airport...arrgggh! had to leave early because of yet another airline snafu (overbooking again, hoped stay an extra day, but instead they put us out early). did not make it to tawangdang next time!!!

re: royal river hotel. it was a pleasant accomodation, not luxury or upscale, but fine with a huge balcony overlooking the river and a very large area to move around including couch and sitting area. much larger than our other hotel rooms. for our schedule, it was fine not being in the center of things because we had a driver and then a plan for our last day that didn't require a lot of transport to and from the hotel. it is difficult to find budget hotels in a good location on the river (i think the best option would be menam riverside). next time i won't hesitate to stay off the river next to more hustle and bustle. being on the river was nice, but not necessary as we spent very little time in the hotel itself. there was a small pool, but we were on the go most of the time and did not make it there.

amazing thailand. what a fabulous place! everything was a wonderful experience and each thing i look forward to going back and revisit! thanks everyone for the great advice.
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Old Mar 9th, 2005 | 12:10 PM
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Glad you had such a great time. Welcome to the "Can't Get Enough of Thailand" club . .
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Old Mar 9th, 2005 | 07:00 PM
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great report---i sent you a private msg earlier....any other tid-bits...glad ratt worked out...she is good...just right really....
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Old Mar 10th, 2005 | 07:27 PM
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thanks for the great report...we can wait to return in october.

when you went to myanmar...where did you cross?? did you go to the big market next to the river across from mae sai???

we too wished we had bought the jade while there...i thought it was pricey (until we shopped in bkk...) should have trusted my
instinct because we did not see the variety ,
quaility or price of jade any better. do you
recall where the jade factory was?? we were shopping in the town just over the border.

thanks again for the report
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Old Mar 11th, 2005 | 09:40 AM
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divediva - re: myanmar, yes, we crossed from mai sai. the jade cutting factory is in mai sai also. i kick myself for not getting more jewelry there. as most places, the more you buy, the better discount you get make sure to report back!
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Old Mar 11th, 2005 | 09:42 AM
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thanks gloria now that i'm more comfortable with thailand (after hitting some of the highlights), i'll be happy to take on some more "backroad" places next time!
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Old Mar 11th, 2005 | 01:45 PM
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hipvirgo...my daughter bought about $700
us worth of sapphire jewelry in burma and jade and rubies too.;..all appraised about 5X what she paid for them. it was risky but paid off. we are going back in october and i am going to buy the jade buddha that i wanted (coulda ,shoulda, woulda) as well as the jade bracelets. we will stay overnight in mae sai again, cross over the border at days light and shop shop shop.
has anyone ventured very far from the border?? where was the jade factory...we did not see it and i would add it to our itinerary.
thanks again
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