Thanks to all for you thoughts and info. We now have an itinerary:

Tokyo 3 nights
Kanazawa - 3 nights
Nara - 2 nights
Kyoto - 5 nights
Hakone - 2 nights

I've made 10 nights of hotel reservations (Tokyo, Kyoto, Hakone) all Hyatts.

The real research starts now - the places to go in each location.

Sounds wonderful - enjoy!

It does sound wonderful!

No JR Pass for that, I think. It would be about break even IF you took the Narita Express to Tokyo from the airport AND a day trip from Tokyo to Kamakura. Better than break even if you visited Nikko from Tokyo. You don't have much time in Tokyo for day trips but I am mentioning Nikko and Kamakura considering that you like visiting temples/shrines.

For Tokyo to Kanazawa (4 to 4.5 hours on JR) you have the option to fly (65 min) from Haneda to Komatsu and then 50 min bus to Kanazawa. One-way award using miles on ANA would cost only 6,000 miles and no taxes.

If Tokyo to Kanazawa by JR then you have two options to get around the Japan Alps: north route via Echigo-Yuzawa or south via Maibara. One easy change of trains on each route. North is a bit less expensive and can be shorter. I think the trains on the south route might be a bit nicer (based on my limited experience on both) but either is fine. If you go the north route then you will see the whole loop, as you will follow the south route on the travel after Kanazawa.

We are really looking forward to this trip.

Thanks for the comments on transport. I know I will be asking lots of questions about this. We plan to take the limo bus from Narita to our Toyko hotel. So it sounds like we won't need the JR pass, then, MrW. Flying seems like a hassle, but maybe not. How is the scenery from the train on the whole loop?

kinpatsu: Could you give a bit more info on Daikanyama please? I don't know that neighborhood at all, and I wouldn't mind exploring on my next trip. (I see that it has a metro stop, but where to explore from there?)

Kathie: You will do well at Hyatts in Japan; they consistently offer reliable product & service. Which Tokyo Hyatt?

Also, flying is 1/100th the aggravation in Japan compared to the U.S. Check-in times are much less, security lines are shorter, and the whole system works far more efficiently than in the U.S. (Then again, that could be said for just about anything in Japan.)

Don, we will be at the Hyatt Regency in Tokyo (using points to upgrade to the Regency Club).

I'm sure flying in Japan is less hassle than flying in the US! Pros and cons of flying vs. doing the loop via rail?

I was also thinking you wouldn't need a JR pass for this. If you did you would want the 14-day one but not having one opens up all options. Good suggestion by mrw about the ff miles for domestic flights. If you took that route you would limo bus from the Shinjuku Hyatt to HND. Very efficient airport btw. Then bus from Toyama to Kanazawa on a smaller bus which would probably have a few stops before the main stop in Kanazawa probably near the JR station somewhere(I am guessing but Bill or Kim would know the specifics). You would save costs this way but not necessarily time as the bus rides to and from and the wait ahead of you plane may negate any time saved. Planes do delay....trains rarely do in Japan.
Taking the train would entail you taking the Hyatt shuttle to Shinjuku station(and getting lost....just kidding)then taking a train from there through either route mentioned by mrwnrfl above. Cost of the train trip would vary. The route through Echigo-Yuzawa would be around ¥12,500 vs about ¥18,500 p/p using the southern route and some shinkansen, Nozomi in your case. The train would be the more expensive option on this segment if using ff points for the plane. If not using ff points then either way would cost about the same as you can get a discounted domestic plane ticket for ¥10,000-11,000 for tourists only and add in the bus fares probably about ¥1200 each ride. Much more later including site suggestions. Work.....what's that lol

Aloha!

Komatsu not Toyama above. Well at least I was in the general vicinity.

The limited express train from Kanazawa goes through Maibara enroute to Kyoto. I did this once and thought Kanazawa to Maibara was scenic with a view of Lake Biwa. At Kyoto you change to a local to Nara.

From Kyoto the shinkansen goes through Maibara to your JR destination of Odawara (and then the Hakone transit). There is a good bit of generally unattractive urban sprawl along the way from Nagoya to Tokyo, at least. You could have great views of Fujisan on the left, weather permitting.

The 'north route' is a shinkansen to Echigo-Yuzawa then a limited expres train to Kanazawa. I've traveled that route and parts of it a few times but have no notable memories of it, except for one experience. That is that I have been on a JR train that was LATE. It was January, and IIRC, the delay was due to weather. At Echigoyuzawa everybody had to rush down the platform and up the escalator to the platform where the shinkanen to Tokyo was waiting. It was quick, maybe closer to 45 seconds than 2 minutes. It was all a blur, but I made it.

You do have an opportunity to visit Hikone castle (a National Treasure!) on the way to Nara. Maibara to Hikone is only 5 or 6 minutes.
http://www.gojapango.com/travel/shiga_hikone_castle.htm

Hyatt Regency is a very pleasant place. If you get a west-facing room (or if the Lounge faces west), you might get lucky and with a clear day see Fuji-san -- or better yet, an unforgettable view of the sun setting right next to Mt Fuji.

(Alas, no Hyatt Regency for me next time -- I'll be splitting my time between the other Shinjuku-area Hyatt and the Roppongi one.)

I just saw ht's post and he wrote Toyama when he meant Komatsu.

I had the same choice to make, going from Shinjuku to Kanazawa, two Novembers ago and really looked hard at taking the train (I enjoy it and have had some absolutely wonderful experiences with Japanese on the trains), but chose to fly (to Komatsu).

BUT, if you want to see some countryside, and maybe have a fun experience with fellow passengers, go the north route on JR.

Flying is hassle free - you can check in 30 minutes before your flight, take your water through security, no one shouts at you and lines are short and fast-moving. Most everyone stays outside of the gate area for domestic flights until right before boarding because there is only a kiosk type shop after security and there are shops and restaurants on the "outside."

From Komatsu to Kanazawa there are buses that meet every flight and depart when the passengers are out of the baggage claim. The only easier way is car - as a rule I park and fly when I go anywhere, but there are taxis (in this case not inexpensive at around ¥20,000) for the 30 - 40 minute ride on the highway.

We were assuming we would take trains everywhere, so it is interesting to read about the flight options. We do want to see some countryside, so will likely end up on the train most of the time. But it sounds like if we wanted to fly one leg, it might be the Tokyo to Kanazawa leg, is that right?

I also think HT was correct when he gave the instruction for the train "Taking the train would entail you taking the Hyatt shuttle to Shinjuku station(and getting lost." I'm sure we will get lost. Isn't that the way the rest of you learn your way around places - by getting lost? That was how I learned my way around the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul. I'm guessing the train stations are less byzantine than that!

Oh, Don, your comments about seeing Fuji-san from the Hyatt reminded me that I once saw Fuji with the sun setting behind it flying into Narita. It was crustal clear and just gorgeous. I watch for it carefully every time we fly into Narita and have not seen it again.

Kathie, you are right about getting lost, and you will in Shinjuku station. It is the busiest train station in the world and I get lost there all the time. There is a tonkatsu restaurant there that is out of this world and we find it maybe 60% of the times we look for it,lol
But just ask the Hyatt shuttle driver to point you in the direction of the JR trains and follow the abundant signage to the JR gates. Follow the signs....stand on the left on escalators pass on the right...take your time.....especially if you happen to be there at rush hour. If you have to stop to look around and get your bearings try to move to the side and out of the flow. Shinjuku eki is always changing, ever growing and evolving. Locals get lost there all the time, we have seen it. It will be fun for you two, I can't wait to see Bob in Shinjuku station but I think it best we avoid that situation

Aloha!

Yes, Tokyo to Kanazawa would be the leg to fly. The rest is by rail.

You certainly have the right attitude about getting lost. Getting lost in Japan can be fun. And, yes, it is how you learn. Shinjuku requires more than a lesson, or a couple of courses, it calls for a degree program to learn. If you and ht and I all went to the station together then we would get lost and it would be a toss-up on who would figure it out first. But you will figure it out and shouldn't stop you from taking the train if you want to do that for the reasons mentioned.

You don't have to decide now. Those award flights are easy to get. If you find that I am wrong about that then you take the train.

Thanks to the Japan experts! Yes, we won't decide right now about train vs. plane for that leg of the trip. If we decide to fly, you are the expert, MrW on getting free tickets, so we'll ask your advice.

Congratulations Kathie! I am glad you decided to visit Japan. It is such an unique country, in terms of culture, traditions, food, etc. It is unlike any other country you've visited in Asia.

IMO, 5 nights in Kyoto is just right, especially for someone who enjoys temples and gardens. Some of the must-sees are Kiyomizu-dera, Sanjusangendo, Ginkakuji, the Imperial Gardens, and Nijo Castle. If you want to take a tour of the Imperial Gardens, make sure you request tickets as soon as it's available using the Imperial Household Agency's website; tickets are usually available about three weeks in advance and are free of charge. It was worth it IMO.

My general advice for Kyoto would be to focus on a few temples, slow down, and really enjoy walking in the gardens and sitting around and really absorbing the scenery around you. A nice cup of green tea looking out at a pretty scene - heaven!

I enjoyed Nara too. It is a smaller town. The main draw is Todaiji Temple with its Big Buddha. Other than that, it's a nice town to take easy and enjoy what it has to offer.

Also, in between Nara and Kyoto is Fushimi Inari Shrine. If you have the time, it's fun wandering around the complex with its many vermilion gates.

I'd be happy to answer any questions you may have as you continue planning.

> I enjoyed Nara too. .... The main draw is Todaiji Temple

hmm... I wonder if that's why so many people think Nara worthy of just a day trip? I enjoyed my time at Todai-ji, but it was a decidedly 2nd tier objective for my time in Nara. For me, visiting Nara was about seeing Horyu-ji and Chugu-ji (just outside of Nara in Ikaruga), the Nara National Museum, Kofuku-ji and its incomparable Treasure Hall, Kasuga Shrine, Naramachi....

Since you mentioned that you are interested in temples and shrines, I would suggest spending a day in Kamakura and Hase, south of Tokyo. There you can see the great Buddha (Daibutsu) and the caves overlooking the ocean (Hase-dera). It's an easy train ride from Tokyo. Just exit at Kita-Kamakura and start walking south.

I would also suggest adding a day in Tokyo and subtracting a day from Kyoto. I lived in Tokyo for three years and still did not have time to see everything. I spent a weekend in Kyoto and felt that was sufficient.

As another person mentioned, Hiroshima is an unforgettable stop on your journey to experience Japan. Though it's distant, it is worth the excursion. I felt a half-day was sufficient; you will be mentally exhausted by the time you emerge from the Atomic Bomb Museum, learn about Sadako, and see the Dome. But these are memories worth having.