ifeniks

Hello, for my first trip to Japan, I am planning to stay for two nights between Tokyo and Kyoto in Hakone or Izu in one of the higher end ryokans. I have done some research and have good understanding of what both areas are. I would like to ask the experts like emd, florence and others on this forum - what would be the ideal area for the first time visitor. I do want to enjoy the ryokan, yet to get out and explore the area. Overall I am leaning towards Hakone due to more convenient connections and more things to do, such as the open air museum, the ropeway (which my wife really wants to do), Ashinoko, etc. However, middle of may of 2007 (I will be there on the weekend) seems fairly busy in Hakone - the ryokans such as Ginyu are fully booked. I was also looking at Gora Kadan (a little bit too much) and Kinnotake (cheaper, but location in Segakuhara not as convenient for sightseeing). So my question is - maybe Izu has some qualities that I am missing? If so, where? Atami, Ito, Shimoda (too remote for my trip to Kyoto?). Any recommendations on high end ryokans in both areas? Sorry for the long post and thanks for your time.

mrwunrfl

I think that if you found a ryokan in Hakone that fully meets your needs then you would, by definition, not be missing anything by not going to Atami.

I went to a ryokan in the Atami Onsen area. Nice, a bit more urban in the immediate area than in Hakone Yumoto. But I just scratched the surface. I believe that you could find a great place there.

Hakone Yumoto is a small town and there are several ryokan in the hills nearby. In a couple of other Hakone ryokan posts a ryokan was mentioned that had originated at the beginning of the Edo period. Maybe someone else can recall the name or you may find it in a search.

Hakone would be a bit more convenient for your travel, as you mentioned. And the places there might be a bit more accustomed to foreign visitors. And there are several attractions in the Fuji-Hakone National Park area. The ropeway is fun as is the boat across the lake.

mrwunrfl

Almost forgot to mention: you ought to try to go to Hakone during the week as it won't be as busy with people fleeing Tokyo and Yokohama.

ifeniks

mrwunrfl, thank you for the response! I know, I am coming to Hakone during the mid may weekend, so it will be very busy. I just wanted to spend equal number of days (6 each) in Tokyo and Kyoto, so the "middle" was Friday through Sunday weekend. I think the ryokan you are referring to is Kansuiro - looks and sounds very nice and I would do it myself in a heartbeat, but I was thinking about more modern like Kinnotake, Hakone Ginyu or Gora Kadan because of my wife - I don't want to throw her in a too "traditional" and too exotic atmosphere, plus she might be a bit scared by not being able to communicate (we both speak English and Russian, but no Japanese). So I thought about Kansuiro long and hard and decided to skip it - a bit too dark, too strict - the impression of course may be erroneous, but...I want for her something airy, light, open and visually stunning.

mrwunrfl

Yes, Kansuiro is the place that I was referring to. What gives you the impression that it is too "exotic"? Can you point me to something specific? I think that your DW need not be concerned because I think she is in good hands. You've done a good bit of research and after looking at the places you mentioned I think I understand where you are coming from (i.e. your outlook).

Gora Kadan looks like a resort. A pricey one, maybe well worth it if you would partake of the tennis and golf.

The Kinnotake website is ridiculous, imo. It's got some nice webtech features, but I can't tell what the place is. Looks like it is a place to have meetings. Why the webpage shows itty bitty floor diagrams I don't understand. This website might reflect the webpage designer's artistry or it may reflect an attitude of the ryokan (or both or neither). It's mostly in Japanese and doesn't say "welcome" to me. YMMV of course! http://www.kinnotake.com/

OTOH, the first word of text on the Kansuiro page is "Welcome". http://www.kansuiro.co.jp/eng/
Browse that website and you get a good idea of what you are getting into. Looks like the info was written by a native English speaker, a pro.

Kansuiro doesn't have western beds. Is that a big drawback?

Kansuiro's webpage does provide explanations on how to use the baths. This is a great thing, I think. They are welcoming foreigners with this. The customs are the same, basically, at a traditional ryokan or a modern one.

You must have seen the "how to" guidance at japaneseguesthouses.com and ought to get familiar with them, with your DW.

I see how you might say that Hakone Ginyu is open and airy and light. How did you find out that they were booked on your days? That place does look like a good choice, based on your needs. Ryokan rooms generally have a standard layout, but the nice open balcony is a plus. Kansuiro just might be dark by comparison.

ifeniks

I wholeheartedly agree with everything you said - this is why I am a bit uneasy with Kinnotake. My email to Kansuiro went unanswered so I used JTB to contact them - however JTB assesses 15% booking fee which amounts to a lot when applied to 32,000 yen pp per night (their weekend charge). I looked at Kansuiro photos on flickr.com plus read one review where the place is called "nice, but creepy". I did like the "Spirited Away" sort of atmosphere, but again, Ginyu seemed like a much better match to our personality. I used both ryokancollection.com and japaneseguesthouses.com trying to make the reservations but I was told by both it is extremely popular and hard to book even for japanese. Even 6 months away (I started in November) it was fully booked and basically I was hinted that I started way too late. More pictures on kinnotake are available on ryokancollection.com I also considered Taiseikan - also quite worn around the edges, which may be an advantage to some folks, but for the cost...you know how it is in someone else's home - hard to explain really. Anyway, I also looked at the new Hyatt Regency in Hakone, opening this weekend. Very pretty, nice views and rooms, may have dinner and breakfast included - and a bit cheaper, compared to Kinnotake - but it is just a hotel after all. So I will wait until the next week or so, and then just make a decision. Gora Kadan is probably what I really want to do, but for at least $900 per night for two nights seems excessive (if you think about it, $700 per night for Ginyu or Kinnotake is too much as well, but there is some mental barrier to $2K per stay. Although this is our first trip to Japan that we wanted to do for so long, and I don't mind spending so we really can enjoy instead of being squemish about something. Sorry for the long post..

mrwunrfl

Have you worked out your itinerary for your six days in Tokyo?

ifeniks

Yes, I think I am all set there: I will be staying at Mercure Ginza. We'll hit all the basics. We'll spend a day in Asakusa, with a Sumida cruise to Odaiba for the evening. Another day in Harajuku, Meiji shrine, Omotesando, Shibuya. Another day Yanaka - Nezu, maybe Shinjuku for the evening. One day at Disney sea - to get a break. Last couple of days: museums, Ueno, Ginza, Ebisu. I thought about Nikko, but figured it is too long of a trip for something we'll see at Kyoto (or Nara). I do want to add some versatility to it - a break from usual tourist sites/shrines - or we'll burn out (this is why Disney Sea - something different). Thought about Mitaka/Gibly but my wife is not anime fan. Any thoughts/suggestions? (Maybe for Kyoto as well - change of pace. We are 37 y.o.) Also, mrwunrfl, what do you think of Taisekan? It started to grow on me.. Plus my wife doesn't want to spend too much money. Here is the link (the japanese version is more robust). The reviews on tripadvisor are good. http://www.taiseikan.co.jp/english/

mrwunrfl

Can't really tell what Taiseikan is like, but would be ok at the right price. Definitely print and take their map if you go there. It has phone numbers and the name in Japanese.

Are you flying into Tokyo and out of Osaka? Or in/out of Tokyo? ... I'm wondering if you might have better luck in Hakone on a weekday if you were able to flex your time some.

I don't think that either of us mentioned sumo yet, but it is worth repeating. There is a grand sumo tournament in Tokyo in May and I highly recommend spending the afternoon there (noon or 1PM until 6PM).

Also, May is baseball season.

As I understand it, Nikko has a unique style and history, but I haven't been there yet for the same reasons that you mentioned (and because the style didn't really appeal to me).

ifeniks

Thank you mrwunrfl. I will certainly try to get to the sumo tournament - this is an excellent idea for something different. No I am flying in and out of NRT (got two free tickets on Delta miles - very restrictive) and I am aware of all the negatives, so I will work around it. I also did know about Hakone on a weekday being a better option but couldn't bend the schedule, unless I would spend a couple of days less in Tokyo which I did not want to do. I think I will reserve Taiseikan for now (as I will be able to cancel if the need be) and will stay on the waiting list for Ginyu - maybe by May someone cancels out of it. Thanks again for all your help!

askli

Hi, ifeniks,
How was your stay at Taiseikan in Hakone afterall?
I plan to spend 2 nights in Hakone,and Taiseikan appears to be quite a nice place. My worry is it may be a bit remote - have to catch a night flight from Narita Airport on the day I check out.

emd

If you look at his original posting, ifeniks is not going til the middle of May 2007.

I missed this post as I was on vacation in Utah when it was posted. But it looks like mrwunrfl answered.

ifeniks

Hi,

As EMD said, I am not going until May. I was able to secure one night at Hakone Ginyu, which is much more expensive than Taiseikan but somehow I am more attracted to it. I was looking either at Taiseikan or Kansuiro (Manisha has stayed at Kanusiro and provided excellent review). From what I understand, they both have hot spring water in the room, but the bath itself is not spectacular (both me and my wife are not planning to use public baths, so having a nice rotenburo in the room was a must). I believe EMD stayed at Ichinoyu, which is less than both Taiseikan and Kansuiro and she liked it. I think if I would be using shared baths, I would have selected Taiseikan, although it is subjective.

ifeniks

And also, Taiseikan (and Kansuiro) are both conveniently located for the rest of the Hakone sightseeing. Taiseikan is just a few minutes away from Miyanoshita station and you could easily travel around the area. I believe the same is true about Kansuiro, but it is closer to Hakoneyumoto.