Great Wall Hiking
Jan 4th, 2004, 04:58 AM
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Great Wall Hiking
We are heading for China and Asia, October 20, 2004. We would like to do some actual hiking on the Wall, take a lunch and make the most of 1 day. Originally we had planned to go to Muytianyu but then read that there is only 1 kilometer and then a barrier.
We are now thinking of doing Jinshanling to Simatai. From what I have gathered so far it is a 7 mile hike that could take from as little as 3-4 hours to 7 hours (don't know which one is right or if there is a happy medium.) As well I have been unable to get a true sense to the level of difficulty.
We are a 50+ couple who does a lot of walking and hiking but mountain climbers we are not.
We will book a driver from Beijing to drop us off and meet us at the other end so need to have a better feel for how long it will take.
Any other insights appreciated.
We are now thinking of doing Jinshanling to Simatai. From what I have gathered so far it is a 7 mile hike that could take from as little as 3-4 hours to 7 hours (don't know which one is right or if there is a happy medium.) As well I have been unable to get a true sense to the level of difficulty.
We are a 50+ couple who does a lot of walking and hiking but mountain climbers we are not.
We will book a driver from Beijing to drop us off and meet us at the other end so need to have a better feel for how long it will take.
Any other insights appreciated.
Jan 4th, 2004, 09:02 AM
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I took this hike at no particular speed, pausing to chat with others met on the way, stopping for photos and a snack, etc., and it took me three hours. I imagine the estimates of seven hours include total travelling time to and from Beijing.
The walk begins with a substantial section which has been completely rebuilt, as with all other well-known sections close to Beijing. The Wall always heads for the highest point, even if that involves zig-zagging and turning back on itself, so there are usually drops and climbs between each tower, but here there are also sections which run along ridges, and at certain points rows of towers can be seen stretching into the distance in both directions. The rebuilt sections are quickly left behind, and the walk is then on uneven, broken up brick, and occasionally on the earthen core where the top and one side of the wall have fallen away. There are some points where the Wall climbs very steeply for short distances. Hands are used not actually to haul oneself up, but simply because the surface is so close to one's face. But it's also possible to take short cuts and avoid the more difficult sections--tracks in the grass can easily be seen from on the Wall, and the point at which you scramble down and scramble up again, sometime by standing on a small pile of Wall material, are obvious. When I was last there, someone had marked chalk arrows to send walkers in the right direction, but the way to go is obvious, and these might only stop you from taking short detours up spurs to lookout points, which you might well want to go and see anyway.
As you approach Simatai you may be charged to cross a chain bridge, but you can avoid that by turning right beforehand if you don't want to go on to do the very steep climb up there. But on arriving at the Simatai entrance you may meet attempts to charge you a second time. If you arrive mid-afternoon, however, they've all given up and gone home. But Simatai and Jinshanling are administered by two different work units, each wanting its fee.
The biggest nuisance at this section of Wall are the peasant souvenir sellers who, once they spot you, will dog you for the whole journey. There's nothing to do buy simply ignore them. If you buy one of their overpriced bottles of water or souvenirs they simply dog you all the more. Starting at Jinshanling gives you a greater chance of some peace and quiet. Start at Simatai and you'll be accompanies for the whole journey.
In late October the days should still be warm and bright, but a combination of the low sun and the pollution make for a pleasant yellowness, and timing your walk for the first half of the afternoon will give you light for superb photography of the side-lit wall draped across the high ground. Also there's some display of colour by the local trees, and the persimmons will still be glowing in the bare branches of orchards in the area. You may see them being harvested by someone with a sharp knife on a broom handle reaching up, and someone else below catching the falling fruit in an apron. Look, too, as you pass the Miyun reservoir on the way, for fishermen who have dragged their boats to the side of the road, filled them with water, and have signs up which say 'huo yu' ('live fish'). The fish are swimming around inside the boats.
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
The walk begins with a substantial section which has been completely rebuilt, as with all other well-known sections close to Beijing. The Wall always heads for the highest point, even if that involves zig-zagging and turning back on itself, so there are usually drops and climbs between each tower, but here there are also sections which run along ridges, and at certain points rows of towers can be seen stretching into the distance in both directions. The rebuilt sections are quickly left behind, and the walk is then on uneven, broken up brick, and occasionally on the earthen core where the top and one side of the wall have fallen away. There are some points where the Wall climbs very steeply for short distances. Hands are used not actually to haul oneself up, but simply because the surface is so close to one's face. But it's also possible to take short cuts and avoid the more difficult sections--tracks in the grass can easily be seen from on the Wall, and the point at which you scramble down and scramble up again, sometime by standing on a small pile of Wall material, are obvious. When I was last there, someone had marked chalk arrows to send walkers in the right direction, but the way to go is obvious, and these might only stop you from taking short detours up spurs to lookout points, which you might well want to go and see anyway.
As you approach Simatai you may be charged to cross a chain bridge, but you can avoid that by turning right beforehand if you don't want to go on to do the very steep climb up there. But on arriving at the Simatai entrance you may meet attempts to charge you a second time. If you arrive mid-afternoon, however, they've all given up and gone home. But Simatai and Jinshanling are administered by two different work units, each wanting its fee.
The biggest nuisance at this section of Wall are the peasant souvenir sellers who, once they spot you, will dog you for the whole journey. There's nothing to do buy simply ignore them. If you buy one of their overpriced bottles of water or souvenirs they simply dog you all the more. Starting at Jinshanling gives you a greater chance of some peace and quiet. Start at Simatai and you'll be accompanies for the whole journey.
In late October the days should still be warm and bright, but a combination of the low sun and the pollution make for a pleasant yellowness, and timing your walk for the first half of the afternoon will give you light for superb photography of the side-lit wall draped across the high ground. Also there's some display of colour by the local trees, and the persimmons will still be glowing in the bare branches of orchards in the area. You may see them being harvested by someone with a sharp knife on a broom handle reaching up, and someone else below catching the falling fruit in an apron. Look, too, as you pass the Miyun reservoir on the way, for fishermen who have dragged their boats to the side of the road, filled them with water, and have signs up which say 'huo yu' ('live fish'). The fish are swimming around inside the boats.
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
Jan 23rd, 2004, 02:46 AM
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Peter,
Your description of this walk intrigues me a lot. We are headed to Beijing in late March with our 2 kids, ages 11 and 16. They are pretty good hikers....we just did a major trek near Sapa in Viet Nam and they loved it.
Would the weather in later March be too dreary to try this? Any particular time of day better than another?
I'm assuming we should bring a picnic of some sort, to avoid dealing with the vendors there?
Thanks!
Lindsey
Your description of this walk intrigues me a lot. We are headed to Beijing in late March with our 2 kids, ages 11 and 16. They are pretty good hikers....we just did a major trek near Sapa in Viet Nam and they loved it.
Would the weather in later March be too dreary to try this? Any particular time of day better than another?
I'm assuming we should bring a picnic of some sort, to avoid dealing with the vendors there?
Thanks!
Lindsey
Apr 12th, 2004, 08:42 AM
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We are looking forward to hiking from Jinshanling to Simatai, but a little concerned that we might not pace our selfs accordingly. Does anyone know if there is a land mark (tower?)that we will be able to identify that will help us establish the half way mark?
Apr 12th, 2004, 09:06 AM
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From Jinshanling to Simatai you pass about 25 towers altogether (depending on exactly where at Jinshanling you mount the Wall). So after 12 towers you are halfway or further.
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html
May 24th, 2004, 03:49 AM
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We have been to Jinshanling/Simatai on May 9, 2004. The comments we found on this website have been very helpful - we try to add some information that might be helpful for you (you may excuse my bad English, but this is not my mother language...).
As a resumee, we spent a marvellous day on the great wall. We expected a much longer walk - and were very much surprised to arrive at Simatai after only 2 1/2 hours... .
1. How to get to Jinshanling
Most of the local Beijing travel agents propose the trip to Jinshanling in a mini-van (regrouping individual travelers) with the driver picking you up at Simatai several hours later. You will find offers in any Beijing budget hotel. The inconvenient, however, might be that you will have to wait for each other at the end.
That's why we opted for a private car, wich took us to Jinshanling in 2 1/2 hours. The cost was 400 RMB (for up to 3 persons). If you wish, you can contact "Mr. John", who runs a small travel agencie at the Qiao Yuan Hotel in Beijing under "[email protected]"
2. The Jinshanling/Simatai sections of the Great Wall
As Badaling and Mutianyu, Jinshanling and Simatai are (in administrative terms), two independant sections of the Great Wall. Each of them offers to see several kilometers of renovated wall.
The particularity resides in the fact, that the both sections are linked and allow you to walk from one section to the other. This explains, why you will have to pay twice, once when entering the Jinshanling section (official entrance at the parking), and once again when crossing the border between the Jinshanling and the Simatai sections on the wall itself.
When you arrive to Jinshanling, you will have to pay 30 RMB entrance-fee. 300m further you can chose, if you want to take a cable car to get up to the wall or continue walking up. We took the cable-car (35 RMB each), because we expected a much longer walk than it finally was... .
Having left the cable-car, you will get to a first tower after another 300m walk. In this tower, climb the stairs at your LEFT hand side to get to the right direction to Simatai.
About 6 km after your entry, you will leave the Jinshanling section: people in the last Jinshanling-Tower are waiting for charging "westbound" hikers. You will recognize the spot by a small, iron ladder that allows you climb down, back to the wall.
After 800 m of "No Man's Wall" you will enter the Simatai section. We had to pay another 30 RMB in exchange of the official Simatai entrance-tickets there. There even was a Chinese policeman (not looking fake...), supervising it all.
Getting close to Simatai, you will reach a tower where the wall stops for giving place to the Miyun reservoir and continues on the other side of the valley.
If you want to continue on the wall on the other side, turn to the RIGHT in this tower. You will then have to climb down some steep metal stairs to get to the chain-bridge, where you will be charged 5 RMB/pers. to cross.
Otherwise, leave the tower on the LEFT, and you will get down to the Miyun reservoir, where you can walk on to the Simatai "parking lodge".
Once you crossed the chain bridge, you will get to the spot, where the people coming from the official Simatai entrance reach the Great Wall.
At this point, you can continue to visit the rebuilt Simatai section ("Heavenly ladder" etc., 1 km ahead), or directly follow the signs for the "Parking lodge" (1 1/2 km) where your driver will pick you up (so did we).
If you have the courage to continue on this section (not dangerous, but steep) you should know that there is a new cable car connecting the bottom of the "Heavenly ladder" to the parking lodge, allowing you to get down there for about 35 RMB... .
3. Involontary "tour-guides"
As it has already been discribed, local self-appointed "guides" will probably follow you during the whole walk. As these "guides" have to pay the entrance fees themselves, the first "shift" will take you to the end of the Jinshanling section, where you might be "handed over" to the second shift, taking you close to Simatai.
We first tried to get rid of these elderly (?) women, but quickly resigned. After all, those women walked along with us in a rather discrete way, pointed out the few lose stones and "dangerous" spots and offered a helping hand sometimes. AtT the end of their shift, each of them asked us to buy some stuff (postcards, the inevitable "Great-Wall-Album", softdrinks), which we did - remembering the tips we leave to our lovely "garçons" in Paris Brasseries, who certainely don't walk 6km to deserve them... .
4. The track ("feasability"
The steepest spot we met was at about 2 km after the entry to the Graet Wall at Jinshanling. It wasn't dangerous, because going upwards. We could have avoided this part by taking a shortcut, but finally were happy having continued on the wall itself. Getting close to Simatai, I remember a spot where there are no balustrades any more, but it wasn't litterally dangerous neither. If you wish, I can send you some photos... .
I hope you will have as much fun as we had !
As a resumee, we spent a marvellous day on the great wall. We expected a much longer walk - and were very much surprised to arrive at Simatai after only 2 1/2 hours... .
1. How to get to Jinshanling
Most of the local Beijing travel agents propose the trip to Jinshanling in a mini-van (regrouping individual travelers) with the driver picking you up at Simatai several hours later. You will find offers in any Beijing budget hotel. The inconvenient, however, might be that you will have to wait for each other at the end.
That's why we opted for a private car, wich took us to Jinshanling in 2 1/2 hours. The cost was 400 RMB (for up to 3 persons). If you wish, you can contact "Mr. John", who runs a small travel agencie at the Qiao Yuan Hotel in Beijing under "[email protected]"
2. The Jinshanling/Simatai sections of the Great Wall
As Badaling and Mutianyu, Jinshanling and Simatai are (in administrative terms), two independant sections of the Great Wall. Each of them offers to see several kilometers of renovated wall.
The particularity resides in the fact, that the both sections are linked and allow you to walk from one section to the other. This explains, why you will have to pay twice, once when entering the Jinshanling section (official entrance at the parking), and once again when crossing the border between the Jinshanling and the Simatai sections on the wall itself.
When you arrive to Jinshanling, you will have to pay 30 RMB entrance-fee. 300m further you can chose, if you want to take a cable car to get up to the wall or continue walking up. We took the cable-car (35 RMB each), because we expected a much longer walk than it finally was... .
Having left the cable-car, you will get to a first tower after another 300m walk. In this tower, climb the stairs at your LEFT hand side to get to the right direction to Simatai.
About 6 km after your entry, you will leave the Jinshanling section: people in the last Jinshanling-Tower are waiting for charging "westbound" hikers. You will recognize the spot by a small, iron ladder that allows you climb down, back to the wall.
After 800 m of "No Man's Wall" you will enter the Simatai section. We had to pay another 30 RMB in exchange of the official Simatai entrance-tickets there. There even was a Chinese policeman (not looking fake...), supervising it all.
Getting close to Simatai, you will reach a tower where the wall stops for giving place to the Miyun reservoir and continues on the other side of the valley.
If you want to continue on the wall on the other side, turn to the RIGHT in this tower. You will then have to climb down some steep metal stairs to get to the chain-bridge, where you will be charged 5 RMB/pers. to cross.
Otherwise, leave the tower on the LEFT, and you will get down to the Miyun reservoir, where you can walk on to the Simatai "parking lodge".
Once you crossed the chain bridge, you will get to the spot, where the people coming from the official Simatai entrance reach the Great Wall.
At this point, you can continue to visit the rebuilt Simatai section ("Heavenly ladder" etc., 1 km ahead), or directly follow the signs for the "Parking lodge" (1 1/2 km) where your driver will pick you up (so did we).
If you have the courage to continue on this section (not dangerous, but steep) you should know that there is a new cable car connecting the bottom of the "Heavenly ladder" to the parking lodge, allowing you to get down there for about 35 RMB... .
3. Involontary "tour-guides"
As it has already been discribed, local self-appointed "guides" will probably follow you during the whole walk. As these "guides" have to pay the entrance fees themselves, the first "shift" will take you to the end of the Jinshanling section, where you might be "handed over" to the second shift, taking you close to Simatai.
We first tried to get rid of these elderly (?) women, but quickly resigned. After all, those women walked along with us in a rather discrete way, pointed out the few lose stones and "dangerous" spots and offered a helping hand sometimes. AtT the end of their shift, each of them asked us to buy some stuff (postcards, the inevitable "Great-Wall-Album", softdrinks), which we did - remembering the tips we leave to our lovely "garçons" in Paris Brasseries, who certainely don't walk 6km to deserve them... .
4. The track ("feasability"
The steepest spot we met was at about 2 km after the entry to the Graet Wall at Jinshanling. It wasn't dangerous, because going upwards. We could have avoided this part by taking a shortcut, but finally were happy having continued on the wall itself. Getting close to Simatai, I remember a spot where there are no balustrades any more, but it wasn't litterally dangerous neither. If you wish, I can send you some photos... .
I hope you will have as much fun as we had !
May 24th, 2004, 07:24 AM
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We learn so much from those that have gone before.
The "Hike" is #1 on our list of to do's. Your review answered many of our concerns.
The time and level of difficulty has been the biggest concerns we have had about the hike. Did you take time for Lunch or lengthy breaks?
Will take you up on your offer to forward pictures ([email protected])
The "Hike" is #1 on our list of to do's. Your review answered many of our concerns.
The time and level of difficulty has been the biggest concerns we have had about the hike. Did you take time for Lunch or lengthy breaks?
Will take you up on your offer to forward pictures ([email protected])
Aug 18th, 2004, 09:58 AM
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We just came back from a trip to Yunnan, Xian and Beijing during July 2004. Following the suggestions of this forum, we went to hike the Wall from Jinshaling to Simatai. In a tower about 2.5 miles from the Jinshaling section, a Chinese hiker did not allow us to continue showing a concrete wall in the middle of the wall as well as a wire fence on the left side of the mountain. From what we understood, he was arguing that it was forbiden to continue and it may be even dangerous due to gards (or soldiers) that could shot trespassers. After explaining that our driver was in Simatai, he suggested that the only way was to follow the cowpath on the right side of the wall. We returned one tower, got into the path but there were so many bushes that it became impossible to go thru. We decided to go back to Jinshaling and after some communication problems we got a car that take us to Simatai to reach our driver. I will appreciate any comments about what we did wrong, since I did not find any mention about this concrete and wire fence obstructions in the forum. In any case this was a great experience but if I have the opportunity in the future I would like to complete the hiking.
Aug 19th, 2004, 07:20 AM
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Anyone have any idea what this is. Did they make the wrong turn etc? Have done some checking but can find no mention of closing this section of the wall....
We are soon due to head off would sure like to know.
Carol
We are soon due to head off would sure like to know.
Carol
Aug 19th, 2004, 07:33 AM
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According to a report on The Oriental-List from someone who walked this section last Thursday (July 12) it is certainly still open.
A problem with navigation is possible, but it would have to be something pretty fundamental, like turning right rather than left after mounting the Wall at Jinshanling. There's the occasional spur off to one side, but these are clearly just that.
Temporary military exercises? A "concrete wall" sounds too substantial, but perhaps if it were one of those portable concrete barriers which comes in sections? This is the only possible explanation I could come to about a risk of being shot. Of course no 'armed guards' would be shooting at people in the middle of the Chinese countryside.
Peter N-H
http://members.shaw.ca/pnhpublic/China.html
A problem with navigation is possible, but it would have to be something pretty fundamental, like turning right rather than left after mounting the Wall at Jinshanling. There's the occasional spur off to one side, but these are clearly just that.
Temporary military exercises? A "concrete wall" sounds too substantial, but perhaps if it were one of those portable concrete barriers which comes in sections? This is the only possible explanation I could come to about a risk of being shot. Of course no 'armed guards' would be shooting at people in the middle of the Chinese countryside.
Peter N-H
http://members.shaw.ca/pnhpublic/China.html
Aug 19th, 2004, 07:57 AM
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Peter and others,
We will bet to Beijing in 4 days and will love to do the walk is it crazy to do it with these weather. we just arrived to Shanghai a cuple of hours ago and te weater is PERFECT! Dont know if ot os only todau... HKK was horrible but we still did teh little walk at the Peak.
Thanks for any suggestions,
DIANA
We will bet to Beijing in 4 days and will love to do the walk is it crazy to do it with these weather. we just arrived to Shanghai a cuple of hours ago and te weater is PERFECT! Dont know if ot os only todau... HKK was horrible but we still did teh little walk at the Peak.
Thanks for any suggestions,
DIANA
Feb 18th, 2005, 11:26 PM
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If you're looking for some hiking in the middle of China, try the Three Beaches National Park on the Xi'an - Chengdu train line.
It boasts tens of kilometres of canyon walks and maps are available.
See www.threebeaches.com.
It boasts tens of kilometres of canyon walks and maps are available.
See www.threebeaches.com.
Apr 17th, 2005, 12:36 AM
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I've just done this hike in early April 2005. We had a teriffic time and I would highly recommend it. You can read my full write up and review at:
http://www.mcdougalladventures.com/?p=27
There is also a link to the photos from that page.
Good luck!
http://www.mcdougalladventures.com/?p=27
There is also a link to the photos from that page.
Good luck!
Aug 9th, 2007, 07:10 PM
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It's three years ago now, but something I read to day resonated, and it's taken me about half an hour to find this thread in which gkasia04 said:
>We just came back from a trip to Yunnan, Xian and Beijing during July 2004. Following the suggestions of this forum, we went to hike the Wall from Jinshaling to Simatai. In a tower about 2.5 miles from the Jinshaling section, a Chinese hiker did not allow us to continue showing a concrete wall in the middle of the wall as well as a wire fence on the left side of the mountain. From what we understood, he was arguing that it was forbiden to continue and it may be even dangerous due to gards (or soldiers) that could shot trespassers.
To which I replied:
> A problem with navigation is possible, but it would have to be something pretty fundamental, like turning right rather than left after mounting the Wall at Jinshanling.
It turns out that a fundamental navigation problem was indeed the answer. There are miitary bases between Gubeikou and Jinshanling, and while a deviation around those makes a continuous walk possible, it looks as though the problem was indeed with turning right at Jinshaling instead of left.
It's been bothering me.
Peter N-H
http://www.datasinica.com
>We just came back from a trip to Yunnan, Xian and Beijing during July 2004. Following the suggestions of this forum, we went to hike the Wall from Jinshaling to Simatai. In a tower about 2.5 miles from the Jinshaling section, a Chinese hiker did not allow us to continue showing a concrete wall in the middle of the wall as well as a wire fence on the left side of the mountain. From what we understood, he was arguing that it was forbiden to continue and it may be even dangerous due to gards (or soldiers) that could shot trespassers.
To which I replied:
> A problem with navigation is possible, but it would have to be something pretty fundamental, like turning right rather than left after mounting the Wall at Jinshanling.
It turns out that a fundamental navigation problem was indeed the answer. There are miitary bases between Gubeikou and Jinshanling, and while a deviation around those makes a continuous walk possible, it looks as though the problem was indeed with turning right at Jinshaling instead of left.
It's been bothering me.
Peter N-H
http://www.datasinica.com
Aug 25th, 2009, 05:53 PM
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luckykat, i tried to access your trip report on this hike, and couldn't access it anymore. Is it still available? My husband and i are planning to do this hike this august, and would like to know more about it.
Peter, you are a wealth of information! Anything else you can add re this hike?
Peter, you are a wealth of information! Anything else you can add re this hike?
Aug 26th, 2009, 01:21 PM
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If you're talking about Jin Shan Ling to Simatai then I don't think there's much to add to what myself and others have already said.
There's more development at either end now than when the walk was first described, but otherwise the Wall remains the same. I can now confirm from personal experience that it is possible to walk (without being shot) from Jin Shan Ling the other way to Gu Bei Kou (I did it the other way around), with a deviation through farmers' fields to avoid the section cordoned off by the military, which has a base just inside the Wall.
Peter N-H
There's more development at either end now than when the walk was first described, but otherwise the Wall remains the same. I can now confirm from personal experience that it is possible to walk (without being shot) from Jin Shan Ling the other way to Gu Bei Kou (I did it the other way around), with a deviation through farmers' fields to avoid the section cordoned off by the military, which has a base just inside the Wall.
Peter N-H
