I'm planning a July 2005 three week trip to China; my travelling buddies have backed out on me (some silly excuses about paying rent and tuition, can you imagine?) so I've decided to go independently for the things I like best: history, nature, and city stuff mixed in, with very little shopping!

I need as much advice as you'd like to give, but my first question concerns my itinerary and transportation. Tentative plans go like this:

1. Fly (from East Coast) to Hong Kong, stay in HK two-three nights, get visa for China and flight to Beijing in HK (Any airline recommendations/ideas on price? I've been seeing about $1300.)
2. 5-7 days in Beijing (possibly in Red House, semi-apartment style; I like the option of self catering on occasion)
3. Fly to Xian; two nights there, train to Three Beaches National Park, three nights there, then on to Chengdu by train (Advice for the train ride? Been to Three Beaches?)
4. One-two nights in Chengdu, arranging tour to Tibet (From what I've read, this shouldn't be difficult...but will I need more time?)
5. Three nights Lhasa, then fly back to HK

I realize this is pretty general, but I'd like your thoughts on the feasibility of all this, plus any advice for travelling alone or just general "getting around China without a shred of Mandarin" advice. Thanks!

1. US-Hong Kong airfare should be around $800. July may be slightly higher, but not by much. I do a quick search, and it does seem like the fare are around $1,200-1,300. I'd wait a little and see if the airlines will load the cheaper fares later on, or try a consolidator or a travel agent specializes in Asian travel that can get a consolidator fare for you. It may be a little early right now to book, as the cheap fares are mostly likely not available to them either.

Since there are so many flights to HKG, you can safely arrange the rest of your tour. You will get a seat to Hong Kong in July with no problem. Continental and Cathay Pacific flies non-stop from the New York area; CX also via San Fran/LA; UA via Tokyo, San Fran or Chicago; NW via Tokyo, JAL/ANA via Tokyo; Korean/Asiana via Seoul; Singapore via San Fran; China Airlines/EVA via Taipei; Air Canada via Vancouver or Toronto; and so on... Competition is high, and the only time of the year where you need to pay $1,300 or more is Christmas.

2. Since you only have 2-3 days in Hong Kong, you should get your Chinese visa while still in the US, or else you'll have to pay through the nose for an expediated service in Hong Kong. You can do it here by mail or through a travel agent. Forms and information at www.china-embassy.org

3. HK to Beijing is about HK$2,500 round-trip, but may be up to HK$2,000 one-way. If that's too much, you can consider taking the flight from the Shenzhen airport. Should save you quite a bit.

4. Don't know anything about the Three Beaches National Park. I'll ask and if I have more info, I'll post again.

5. The railroad from Baoji (near the Three Beaches) to Chengdu is the first mountainous railroad in China, and is well celebrated. It should have pretty good vista enroute. At least 7 express trains use this route each day, and the trip is about 12 hours. Both day or night trains are available. Since the fare is so inexpensive, I'd suggest you buy the most expensive ticket you can get - Soft sleeper is around US$30, and soft seat is around $18. Avoid the hard seat - nothing wrong with sitting with Chinese locals, per se, but trains may be very crowded and you may not be guaranteed a seat.

You should be able to arrange a 3 night tour to Lhasa fairly easily from Chengdu. There were travel agencies all over the city offering short packages. My CTU-LXA flight in mid-July was completely packed but I think if you have a couple of days, you should be able to arrange something. You probably have to change planes in CTU on your way back to HKG as I don't think there are any nonstops on that route. That might change though.

I also recommend getting your visa ahead of time. However, the US embassy and consulates no longer accept applications by mail. You have to apply in person, have someone else apply on your behalf, or use one of the visa service/travel agencies. It's my understanding that the visa processing fees that HK agencies charge have increased recently due to some changes in regulations affecting US passport holders (probably in retaliation for something the US gov imposed), so I don't think you'll save money by waiting to apply in HK.

The should read "the Chinese embassy and consulates in the US no longer accept applications by mail"

Many thanks! The Shenzen airport option sounds good; should I be able to get a walk-up ticket at any time, would you think, or should I be there very early in the morning--or stay there and spend some time in Shenzen at Splendid China?

I'll definitely wait on airfare; $800 sounds significantly better . On my only previous trip to Asia (Vietnam) I flew Singapore Air, which was lovely; my first choice will be whoever gets me there most quickly from here, though.

I'd love to hear more on "Three Beaches"; I stumbled across it somewhere (and its website is quite nice, as websites can be) and found it to look interesting, but I would like to hear, again, someone's personal experience. I don't need luxury--I spent part of last summer in a lodge in the Peruvian rainforest that had bats in the latrines--but I would like to know just a bit more about the accommodations and such.

Thanks again!

Patty, thanks to you as well; we "cross-posted". I know this is a subjective question, but since you were there then, "how hot is hot" in July? (I'm from Philadelphia, where summers can be 90 degrees F with 90%humidity; is that about what I should expect? I do wish I could travel in the fall...but I can't quite see me asking for three weeks off of school...)

It's hard to predict how hot it'll be, but if you're prepared for 90 degree temps with 90% humidity, I think you'll be OK. Chengdu is normally very hot/humid in the summer, but when I was there this past July, it was actually quite temperate and pleasant, so you never know. Shanghai, on the other hand, during the same time period was so unbearably hot and humid that it was difficult for me to walk just a few blocks during the day (I think it reached over 100). I live in Southern California where the climate is desert like, and no matter how hot it may get during the day, it cools off in the evening. That and it's very dry. So I may have a lower tolerance to humidity than most. I've also been in Beijing in July and remember it being quite hot but not as humid. Lhasa is very pleasant in July. We had some light rain in the early mornings, but it would clear up by mid-morning to noon and then bright sunshine in the afternoon (the bluest skies I've ever seen). I found a light jacket necessary in the morning and evening and was comfortable in short sleeves mid day. Hope this helps.

Thanks Patty for the clarifications. That's right, you cannot mail in your passport for a visa - only through a travel/visa agent, or in person. They have consulates in NY, SF, LA, Chicago and Houston beside the embassy in DC.

For your Shenzhen-Beijing flight, you should purchase it in Hong Kong via any travel agent. Many flights a day, and little advance necessary. But get your ticket before going to the Shenzhen airport.

Amy, I haven't been to Shenjen, but all the reports I've heard suggest that you should aim to spend as little time there as possible. In particular, by repute it's infested with petty thieves. I hope this is not unduly alarmist and would be interested to hear opinions from Fodorites who've been there.

Hi

My wife and I went to China in March 2003. We went from Beijing to Xi'an and from there we went to Hong Kong. I have posted a trip report with some pictures on my homepage http://gardkarlsen.com Maybe you can find some useful information there Have a great trip

Regards
Gard
Stavanger, Norway