First-timers’ trip to Japan: 4 weeks, an unexpectedly awesome trip
Dec 20th, 2023, 11:56 AM
#141
Original Poster
tripplanner, I agree, the accommodations make all the difference in the world. We were very happy with staying at Sumiyoshi. The people are just the loveliest.
I’m trying to write up my Takayama visit now. We were very slow to move when we were there, thanks to a small injury that was acting up, but we manage to get around. I will get it up soon!
By the way, I’m dreaming of a Japan/Taiwan trip now!
mrwunrfl, Okuhida was wonderful! What a beautiful place that was! The only disappointment was not being able to go up to the top of rhe Shinhotaka ropeway since they were doing some repairs at the time. It was supposed to be about a month’s closure so it’s likely open now.
Really, the futon on the floor wasn’t a problem, and when they made up the futon with the low chairs as the backrest, it was fine. I thought it would be harder but we managed, despite our aging bones (wink, wink).
I only smile when I think of the number of times one has to change their footwear. Taking shoes off upon entering the ryokan, then getting the slippers for our room, and THEN changing into slippers only for the toilet!
I’m trying to write up my Takayama visit now. We were very slow to move when we were there, thanks to a small injury that was acting up, but we manage to get around. I will get it up soon!
By the way, I’m dreaming of a Japan/Taiwan trip now!
mrwunrfl, Okuhida was wonderful! What a beautiful place that was! The only disappointment was not being able to go up to the top of rhe Shinhotaka ropeway since they were doing some repairs at the time. It was supposed to be about a month’s closure so it’s likely open now.
Really, the futon on the floor wasn’t a problem, and when they made up the futon with the low chairs as the backrest, it was fine. I thought it would be harder but we managed, despite our aging bones (wink, wink).
I only smile when I think of the number of times one has to change their footwear. Taking shoes off upon entering the ryokan, then getting the slippers for our room, and THEN changing into slippers only for the toilet!
Last edited by progol; Dec 20th, 2023 at 11:58 AM.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 12:20 PM
#142
Original Poster
October 31/November 1
Takayama explorations
Shortly after we arrived in Takayama, we walked through the historic old town, Sanmachi-Suji, consisting of 3 streets with traditional houses that have been preserved, but is now really a tourist center, with lots of shops, cafes & restaurants, and even a few sake breweries. It was a pleasant place to walk but it was busy enough with tourists that it was hard to feel the sense of the traditional and historic buildings. We were also both very tired and dealing with some physical ailments up so I didn’t take many photos here. Oddly enough, there was a tune that was piped in along the street that I was struggling to place. It had a feeling of familiarity yet I couldn’t figure it out. I taped a bit of it as we were walking and only this morning was able to identify it: Edelweiss, from The Sound of Music!
The next morning, after a good rest and another sumptuous breakfast (Sumiyoshi offers both Japanese and Western-style breakfasts), we ambled across the nearby bridge to check out the Miyagi morning market, with vendors along the waterfront. It was quite chilly in the morning, though it did warm up by early afternoon. The market itself wasn’t that big and, though there were small crowds of people as you’d expect at a market, it was by no means overwhelmingly crowded. A mix of different kinds of foods, snacks, fruits & vegetables as well as gifts and other items for sale. We sampled a number of snacks,, including an unusual eggy marshmallow. Our favorite was the taikayi, or fish-shaped cake with filling. Traditionally, it comes with red bean paste but chocolate filling was also available.
We then began to explore the city, passing a few small shrines, and then chancing upon the Hida Kokobunji temple, a Buddhist temple founded in the Nara period (710-794). There is a huge ginkgo tree that’s over 1200 years old! The only 3-story pagoda in the region! And the foundation stones of the original stupa from the 9th century! Lots of little figures, or kami, placed throughout the site. We saw a number odd small shrines with Sarubobo dolls and even a Sarubobo shrine! I’m pretty sure I mentioned them further up the post - Sarubobo dolls, or “monkey-faced” dolls, with their blank faces were traditionally given from mothers to daughter as a good luck amulet. They’re made almost exclusively in Takayama and are popular there and throughout the Japanese Alps.
Woodcarving is a traditional craft in Takayama and there are many carved wooden statues around town and shops specializing in wooden carvings.
Takayama explorations
Shortly after we arrived in Takayama, we walked through the historic old town, Sanmachi-Suji, consisting of 3 streets with traditional houses that have been preserved, but is now really a tourist center, with lots of shops, cafes & restaurants, and even a few sake breweries. It was a pleasant place to walk but it was busy enough with tourists that it was hard to feel the sense of the traditional and historic buildings. We were also both very tired and dealing with some physical ailments up so I didn’t take many photos here. Oddly enough, there was a tune that was piped in along the street that I was struggling to place. It had a feeling of familiarity yet I couldn’t figure it out. I taped a bit of it as we were walking and only this morning was able to identify it: Edelweiss, from The Sound of Music!
The next morning, after a good rest and another sumptuous breakfast (Sumiyoshi offers both Japanese and Western-style breakfasts), we ambled across the nearby bridge to check out the Miyagi morning market, with vendors along the waterfront. It was quite chilly in the morning, though it did warm up by early afternoon. The market itself wasn’t that big and, though there were small crowds of people as you’d expect at a market, it was by no means overwhelmingly crowded. A mix of different kinds of foods, snacks, fruits & vegetables as well as gifts and other items for sale. We sampled a number of snacks,, including an unusual eggy marshmallow. Our favorite was the taikayi, or fish-shaped cake with filling. Traditionally, it comes with red bean paste but chocolate filling was also available.
We then began to explore the city, passing a few small shrines, and then chancing upon the Hida Kokobunji temple, a Buddhist temple founded in the Nara period (710-794). There is a huge ginkgo tree that’s over 1200 years old! The only 3-story pagoda in the region! And the foundation stones of the original stupa from the 9th century! Lots of little figures, or kami, placed throughout the site. We saw a number odd small shrines with Sarubobo dolls and even a Sarubobo shrine! I’m pretty sure I mentioned them further up the post - Sarubobo dolls, or “monkey-faced” dolls, with their blank faces were traditionally given from mothers to daughter as a good luck amulet. They’re made almost exclusively in Takayama and are popular there and throughout the Japanese Alps.
Woodcarving is a traditional craft in Takayama and there are many carved wooden statues around town and shops specializing in wooden carvings.
Last edited by progol; Dec 22nd, 2023 at 12:27 PM.
Dec 22nd, 2023, 12:48 PM
#143
Original Poster
Takayama - a tiny taste of the charming town
This doesn’t begin to capture the sense of the old fashioned street though the storefront is set in one of the older houses
You can find all kinds of old-fashioned signs!
Another handsome storefront
Miyagi River - late afternoon
Miyagi morning market
“Marshmallow”
Shopping at the market
Market
Marker Vendor
Making taikayi, a fish-shaped cake with filling
taikayi, a fish-shaped cake with filling
Fabric sold at the market
Small shrine along the street
Wooden carving - part of a shop sign
Wooden carving around town
Wooden carving around town
Wooden carving around town
Wooden carving around town
Wooden cat by the market
Close up
This is not a wooden carving but I couldn’t pass up the chance to post it here!
Miyagi river - afternoon
Miyagi River - early evening
This doesn’t begin to capture the sense of the old fashioned street though the storefront is set in one of the older houses
You can find all kinds of old-fashioned signs!
Another handsome storefront
Miyagi River - late afternoon
Miyagi morning market
“Marshmallow”
Shopping at the market
Market
Marker Vendor
Making taikayi, a fish-shaped cake with filling
taikayi, a fish-shaped cake with filling
Fabric sold at the market
Small shrine along the street
Wooden carving - part of a shop sign
Wooden carving around town
Wooden carving around town
Wooden carving around town
Wooden carving around town
Wooden cat by the market
Close up
This is not a wooden carving but I couldn’t pass up the chance to post it here!
Miyagi river - afternoon
Miyagi River - early evening
Dec 22nd, 2023, 01:50 PM
#145
Original Poster
November 1, continued…
Hida Kokobunji temple
3-tiered Pagoda
1200 year old ginkgo tree
Kami, a spiritual figure placed in a knot in the tree
Foundations of the 9th century stupa
Sarubobo shrine
Sarubobo dolls by a small shrine
Hida Kokobunji temple
3-tiered Pagoda
1200 year old ginkgo tree
Kami, a spiritual figure placed in a knot in the tree
Foundations of the 9th century stupa
Sarubobo shrine
Sarubobo dolls by a small shrine
Dec 25th, 2023, 10:47 AM
#151
Original Poster
Higashiyama walking course
Our favorite activity in Takayama was walking along the Higashiyama Walking Course, a several kilometer walk through Takayama’s “temple town”, a route that goes through a wooded park and through neighborhoods along the city’s edge. It’s a stunning walk and a treat to view the many temples and shrines that sit amidst the fall foliage. We only visited a few and did not do the entire walk, but the experience was a joy. A fantastic exploration.
Our favorite activity in Takayama was walking along the Higashiyama Walking Course, a several kilometer walk through Takayama’s “temple town”, a route that goes through a wooded park and through neighborhoods along the city’s edge. It’s a stunning walk and a treat to view the many temples and shrines that sit amidst the fall foliage. We only visited a few and did not do the entire walk, but the experience was a joy. A fantastic exploration.
Dec 25th, 2023, 10:58 AM
#152
Original Poster
Hida no Sato (Hida Folk Village)
We took a short bus ride to Hida no Sato (Hida Folk Village), an open-air museum with over 30 traditional houses from the region, built between 1603 and 1868, and relocated from their original locations in 1971 to form the museum. Rooms are set up to recreate the living situations of the time the houses were used. The site does have a village-like atmosphere and evokes a sense of the multiple pasts that these houses lived.
We took a short bus ride to Hida no Sato (Hida Folk Village), an open-air museum with over 30 traditional houses from the region, built between 1603 and 1868, and relocated from their original locations in 1971 to form the museum. Rooms are set up to recreate the living situations of the time the houses were used. The site does have a village-like atmosphere and evokes a sense of the multiple pasts that these houses lived.
Dec 25th, 2023, 11:17 AM
#153
Original Poster
We really loved our time in Takayama - well, we really loved each place we stayed, but Takayama did work its way into our hearts. I suspect it helped that we stayed at Sumiyoshi, with its very intimate feel, but it really was a favorite stop.
A special moment - we stumbled upon a small sushi restaurant, arriving just as it opened. We were the only ones there and I wondered if it was any good. There were 2 or 3 tables and counter seating; we were seated at the latter. We watched as our dishes were prepared. We were very happily surprised as it was delicious. Gradually, the counter filled up with other diners - a couple from Hawaii, a small group from Paris - and we all began talking and laughing and sharing our experiences. It was a fun moment that made the experience even richer.
A special moment - we stumbled upon a small sushi restaurant, arriving just as it opened. We were the only ones there and I wondered if it was any good. There were 2 or 3 tables and counter seating; we were seated at the latter. We watched as our dishes were prepared. We were very happily surprised as it was delicious. Gradually, the counter filled up with other diners - a couple from Hawaii, a small group from Paris - and we all began talking and laughing and sharing our experiences. It was a fun moment that made the experience even richer.
Dec 25th, 2023, 12:15 PM
#155
Original Poster
yestravel,
We definitely were very lucky with the foliage from Matsumoto to Takayama! And the weather was mostly good, too. The colors after we left Takayama were nice but not at peak. I was so excited to see so much color, too, since it was so unpredictable.
We definitely were very lucky with the foliage from Matsumoto to Takayama! And the weather was mostly good, too. The colors after we left Takayama were nice but not at peak. I was so excited to see so much color, too, since it was so unpredictable.
Dec 25th, 2023, 12:28 PM
#156
Original Poster
November 3,
Leaving sweet Takayama….
And now Sayonara to the lovely ryokan, Sumiyoshi, and the owners and the staff. They are the best! We were welcomed with a warmth and graciousness that made us feel so at home. We will cherish our memories of our stay here. Oh, and the food - terrific!Sadly, we left Takayama, a real charmer of a city and off to Kanazawa. We decided to go by train rather than by bus this meant taking 2 trains, changing at Toyama. This was the one and only time we got very confused in a station. Toyama is a large station and we changed lines. It took us a little while to figure out where we had to go, but we managed to do it without too much angst!
Waiting at the Takayama train station
View from the train
View from the train
View from the train
View from the train
Leaving sweet Takayama….
And now Sayonara to the lovely ryokan, Sumiyoshi, and the owners and the staff. They are the best! We were welcomed with a warmth and graciousness that made us feel so at home. We will cherish our memories of our stay here. Oh, and the food - terrific!Sadly, we left Takayama, a real charmer of a city and off to Kanazawa. We decided to go by train rather than by bus this meant taking 2 trains, changing at Toyama. This was the one and only time we got very confused in a station. Toyama is a large station and we changed lines. It took us a little while to figure out where we had to go, but we managed to do it without too much angst!
Waiting at the Takayama train station
View from the train
View from the train
View from the train
View from the train
Dec 25th, 2023, 12:28 PM
#157
And, of course, if you had tried to plan and time it, you would have missed peak. Serendipity!
Dec 25th, 2023, 01:59 PM
#160
Original Poster
