First-timers’ trip to Japan: 4 weeks, an unexpectedly awesome trip
Dec 18th, 2023, 09:27 AM
#121
Original Poster
Arrival at Yarimikan
A gorgeous ryokan in a stunning location!
We were given a brief introduction to where the various onsens, or steam baths, are located within the ryokan. Most of the baths are segregated by gender although there is a shared bath where women are provided an apron-like garment to wear. M and I opted to keep to the segregated baths since it was more relaxed that way.
Our room overlooked the river and I loved to see the steam rising from the baths. We were each provided with a yukata, A casual version of the kimono, an obi and a jacket to wear over this. There is a correct way to wear the yukata - which, please note, we didn’t do the first day! The left side goes over the right but we had it backwards.
Before entering the onsen, there is a dressing area where clothes are left. Then a good wash before entering.
And oh, what a joy!
A gorgeous ryokan in a stunning location!
We were given a brief introduction to where the various onsens, or steam baths, are located within the ryokan. Most of the baths are segregated by gender although there is a shared bath where women are provided an apron-like garment to wear. M and I opted to keep to the segregated baths since it was more relaxed that way.
Our room overlooked the river and I loved to see the steam rising from the baths. We were each provided with a yukata, A casual version of the kimono, an obi and a jacket to wear over this. There is a correct way to wear the yukata - which, please note, we didn’t do the first day! The left side goes over the right but we had it backwards.
Before entering the onsen, there is a dressing area where clothes are left. Then a good wash before entering.
And oh, what a joy!
Dec 18th, 2023, 09:37 AM
#122
Original Poster
Arrival and onsen time photos
View from the lobby window
Common Sitting area
Fish grilling for dinner!
Sarubobo dolls, common to the Takayama region, and said to bring luck
Our room- sitting area
Window
View from our window
Corner sitting area
Another view
On our way for our first onsen bath!
Women’s indoor onsen
View over the onsen
Back from our first dip!
View from the lobby window
Common Sitting area
Fish grilling for dinner!
Sarubobo dolls, common to the Takayama region, and said to bring luck
Our room- sitting area
Window
View from our window
Corner sitting area
Another view
On our way for our first onsen bath!
Women’s indoor onsen
View over the onsen
Back from our first dip!
Dec 18th, 2023, 10:03 AM
#123
Original Poster
Yarimikan dinner - dining at its finest
We had our first exposure to the dinner experience, or kaiseki dining, at Yarimikan. This is an elaborate meal, with multiple courses each consisting of a range of dishes. The dining areas were screened off so that each group had a private corner. It was an elegant experience and we were floored by the experience! It was a bit daunting and overwhelming, though quite special, too.
From the website, “Savor Japan”:
“This dazzling culinary tradition of Japanese kaiseki is distinguished by several key features, the first being the menu. Kaiseki cuisine features a set course meal chosen by the chef to highlight a specific seasonal theme—at the height of spring, for example, this may be represented by a budding sakura, a cherry blossom in full bloom. Such themes, each rooted in nature, highlight the superior quality of the natural ingredients used. Japanese kaiseki dining, the very epitome of the country’s formal dining experience, is characterized by a calm atmosphere featuring subdued lighting and elegant tableware. A sense that one should appreciate the artful display just as much as the taste permeates every aspect of the meal.
There are a number of different courses to kaiseki meals, and the exact execution of the meal depends on the chef as well as the availability of seasonal ingredients. However, the kaiseki dining experience typically begins with appetizers, followed by sashimi, cooked dishes, a rice course, and finally, dessert, with optional palate cleansers in between.”
We had our first exposure to the dinner experience, or kaiseki dining, at Yarimikan. This is an elaborate meal, with multiple courses each consisting of a range of dishes. The dining areas were screened off so that each group had a private corner. It was an elegant experience and we were floored by the experience! It was a bit daunting and overwhelming, though quite special, too.
From the website, “Savor Japan”:
“This dazzling culinary tradition of Japanese kaiseki is distinguished by several key features, the first being the menu. Kaiseki cuisine features a set course meal chosen by the chef to highlight a specific seasonal theme—at the height of spring, for example, this may be represented by a budding sakura, a cherry blossom in full bloom. Such themes, each rooted in nature, highlight the superior quality of the natural ingredients used. Japanese kaiseki dining, the very epitome of the country’s formal dining experience, is characterized by a calm atmosphere featuring subdued lighting and elegant tableware. A sense that one should appreciate the artful display just as much as the taste permeates every aspect of the meal.
There are a number of different courses to kaiseki meals, and the exact execution of the meal depends on the chef as well as the availability of seasonal ingredients. However, the kaiseki dining experience typically begins with appetizers, followed by sashimi, cooked dishes, a rice course, and finally, dessert, with optional palate cleansers in between.”
Dec 18th, 2023, 10:45 AM
#125
Original Poster
Yarimikan morning
Morning at the ryokan - the beautiful outdoor bath, usually a “mixed bath” is open for women only from 7-9am. And since I’m still waking up long before the crack of dawn, this was a great way to start the day.
Morning view from our room
Tea to start the day
A walk down the stone steps to the outdoor onsen
So peaceful and serene
Sigh…
Morning at the ryokan - the beautiful outdoor bath, usually a “mixed bath” is open for women only from 7-9am. And since I’m still waking up long before the crack of dawn, this was a great way to start the day.
Morning view from our room
Tea to start the day
A walk down the stone steps to the outdoor onsen
So peaceful and serene
Sigh…
Dec 18th, 2023, 11:00 AM
#126
Original Poster
Halfway up the Shinhotaka RopewayThe Shinhotaka Ropeway usually goes up to the very top of the Alps, and despite my fear of heights, I was looking forward to this. Unfortunately, it’s under repair, so only went up to the first landing - a pleasant experience, if not as spectacular as the full trip would be. But a glorious day and no lack of views anywhere today!
Waiting for the cable car
Beautiful vista
Great color!
Autumn colors in the mountain
Waiting for the cable car
Beautiful vista
Great color!
Autumn colors in the mountain
Dec 18th, 2023, 12:35 PM
#129
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Wow. The photos are gorgeous, and the onsen town and accommodations look so relaxing and peaceful. Glad you were able to get all the colors in the mountains. Your photo with the snow-capped peak is familiar, as we were on the opposite side of the mountain. While we didn't get the colors on the Nohi bus ride, it was magical to see the trees covered in powdery white snow.
I know that we each had prepaid bus tickets for Nohi, but in some other parts of Japan (for us, in Nikko and in Fukuyama), we needed to take a ticket as we got on the bus and on it is printed the station number. When we were ready to get off, we had to show the tickets to the bus driver and pay the amount shown on the screen corresponding to the stop number. If someone didn't pick up a ticket, then they would pay the highest amount on the screen.
I know that we each had prepaid bus tickets for Nohi, but in some other parts of Japan (for us, in Nikko and in Fukuyama), we needed to take a ticket as we got on the bus and on it is printed the station number. When we were ready to get off, we had to show the tickets to the bus driver and pay the amount shown on the screen corresponding to the stop number. If someone didn't pick up a ticket, then they would pay the highest amount on the screen.
Dec 18th, 2023, 01:37 PM
#130
Original Poster
Thanks, tp. We were really taken by the beauty of the region and felt so fortunate to have the autumn color in the Japanese Alp region, I didn’t know if we’d see any color since I’d read it was very late this year because of the warm weather.
Funny about recognizing the snow-capped mountain. I can also just imagine how magical it was to see the snow on the trees. Like a fairyland!
This was our first exposure to the onsen experience and I’m now a fan! We went to another onsen setting which we liked as well, but Yarimikan was definitely more luxurious. Interestingly, there was very little English spoken here.
We bought our tickets in Matsumoto for the bus for Okuhida, but when we took the bus onward to Takayama, we were given a ticket at the stop we got on, then paid when we got off in Takayama. We didn’t have to change buses this time, either.
Funny about recognizing the snow-capped mountain. I can also just imagine how magical it was to see the snow on the trees. Like a fairyland!
This was our first exposure to the onsen experience and I’m now a fan! We went to another onsen setting which we liked as well, but Yarimikan was definitely more luxurious. Interestingly, there was very little English spoken here.
We bought our tickets in Matsumoto for the bus for Okuhida, but when we took the bus onward to Takayama, we were given a ticket at the stop we got on, then paid when we got off in Takayama. We didn’t have to change buses this time, either.
Dec 18th, 2023, 03:35 PM
#131
Wonderful photos of the country! Am guessing we will probably see another photo like the last one if you later took the train south from Takayama.
>> each stop has a number associated with it so, remembering the stop you got on
The remembering could be done by looking at the slip of paper that you got from the dispenser at the door when you boarded the bus. The display shows the fare to be paid at the next stop depending on the boarding stop. If your slip says 5 then you pay 1000 yen or pay 820 if you boarded at stop 6.
IDK why stops 1,2,3 or 7,8,9 are not on the board, but assume that the bus skips those stops, like it is a limited express, or is on an alternate route.
Looks like the next stop is K25, Sakamaki Onsen, given this translation:
>> each stop has a number associated with it so, remembering the stop you got on
The remembering could be done by looking at the slip of paper that you got from the dispenser at the door when you boarded the bus. The display shows the fare to be paid at the next stop depending on the boarding stop. If your slip says 5 then you pay 1000 yen or pay 820 if you boarded at stop 6.
IDK why stops 1,2,3 or 7,8,9 are not on the board, but assume that the bus skips those stops, like it is a limited express, or is on an alternate route.
Looks like the next stop is K25, Sakamaki Onsen, given this translation:
Dec 18th, 2023, 04:42 PM
#133
The ryokan looks really nice. Good to see you got a table with chairs for dinner. Excellent shot of DH properly set to go to an onsen bath, with yukata, tied haori, basket with towels, and suripa - am impressed.
I forgot to take the towels from my room to the bath at a ryokan last month. I communicated my error to another guest as he was leaving the bath. I used the word "toweru" and heard him say "closet" in Japanese maybe "kurosetu" and I knew he understood. He informed the front desk of my predicament and they fixed me up. I guess I assumed that there were towels in the dressing area.
Am really happy to see photos of nature. And the food.
onsen translates to hot springs
>> various onsens, or steam baths,
s/b: various onsen, or hot springs, baths
I forgot to take the towels from my room to the bath at a ryokan last month. I communicated my error to another guest as he was leaving the bath. I used the word "toweru" and heard him say "closet" in Japanese maybe "kurosetu" and I knew he understood. He informed the front desk of my predicament and they fixed me up. I guess I assumed that there were towels in the dressing area.
Am really happy to see photos of nature. And the food.
onsen translates to hot springs
>> various onsens, or steam baths,
s/b: various onsen, or hot springs, baths
Dec 18th, 2023, 04:58 PM
#134
Original Poster
mrwunrfl,
Thanks so much for your wonderful comments! And it was your suggestion to consider Okuhida, which turned out to be such a perfect place to stay. Yarimikan was very comfortable - definitely a luxurious experience - and the outdoor onsen was heavenly. As I mentioned up above, there was very little English spoken, so we did struggle a bit to make sense of where things were. There was a notebook to help us orient to the place, including how to wear the yukata.
Dinner was an experience! We really were overwhelmed with the many different dishes - at times, M just stared at the table, rather bewildered by all the dishes! And yes, having a real table was very nice! Truthfully, we never had to sit at a low table anywhere, which I don’t think our poor knees would’ve liked!
re: the monitor in the bus - I think the numbers changed periodically, though I can’t exactly remember clearly, so that those that didn’t show up at one point showed up a little while later. But it’s not a clear memory.
And it was great getting into the countryside and seeing nature. Very special.,
Thanks so much for your wonderful comments! And it was your suggestion to consider Okuhida, which turned out to be such a perfect place to stay. Yarimikan was very comfortable - definitely a luxurious experience - and the outdoor onsen was heavenly. As I mentioned up above, there was very little English spoken, so we did struggle a bit to make sense of where things were. There was a notebook to help us orient to the place, including how to wear the yukata.
Dinner was an experience! We really were overwhelmed with the many different dishes - at times, M just stared at the table, rather bewildered by all the dishes! And yes, having a real table was very nice! Truthfully, we never had to sit at a low table anywhere, which I don’t think our poor knees would’ve liked!
re: the monitor in the bus - I think the numbers changed periodically, though I can’t exactly remember clearly, so that those that didn’t show up at one point showed up a little while later. But it’s not a clear memory.
And it was great getting into the countryside and seeing nature. Very special.,
Dec 19th, 2023, 09:30 AM
#135
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Thank you for the amazing TR and stunning photos! Your report had so many helpful tips and it is an enormous help as I plan our first trip to Japan next Oct. 2024. I’m impressed you managed your visit on your own. I was excited to hear Halloween is big as I love Halloween! What fun and fabulous trip you had.
Dec 19th, 2023, 11:36 AM
#136
Original Poster
Thank you for the amazing TR and stunning photos! Your report had so many helpful tips and it is an enormous help as I plan our first trip to Japan next Oct. 2024. I’m impressed you managed your visit on your own. I was excited to hear Halloween is big as I love Halloween! What fun and fabulous trip you had.
It really is a fabulous country and now I’m hoping I can figure out a plan to return!
More trip to come…
Dec 19th, 2023, 11:59 AM
#137
Original Poster
Charming Takayama
After another morning dip in the onsen and another elaborate breakfast (equally as elaborate as the dinners!), we took the ryokan’s shuttle to the bus stop (though it really is a short walk) where we picked up the Nohi bus to Takayama. No bus changes this time!
Having studied the location of the stops in Takayama, I was pleased to figure out that we could get off at the stop before the bus station and we’d have only a short walk to our new accommodation, Sumiyoshi ryokan. I knew it was on a side street, and could be a little hard to find, but after a few hiccups with Google maps, we found it surprisingly easily.
I had read about Sumiyoshi ryokan for the first time on this forum in crellston ’s trip report from a number of years ago and I knew I wanted to stay here. It sounded charming. And, believe me, it is!The Antique Inn Sumiyoshi is a very traditional ryokan overlooking the Miyagawa River, run by the sweetest people who can’t do enough to make their guests feel at home. It’s a simple place but so many lovely details found throughout the building.
We stayed at Sumiyoshi 3 nights and ate dinner here twice. It was fabulous. After the first night, we figured we’d try other places. But after eating elsewhere, we decided to have dinner at Sumiyoshi for our 3rd night - It was SO good and the experience was just so much more personal.
In fact, I’ve said it before but so much of our trip was enhanced by the interactions with people that we met, and Sumiyoshi is one of those places where the warmth and graciousness of the people really touched us.
After another morning dip in the onsen and another elaborate breakfast (equally as elaborate as the dinners!), we took the ryokan’s shuttle to the bus stop (though it really is a short walk) where we picked up the Nohi bus to Takayama. No bus changes this time!
Having studied the location of the stops in Takayama, I was pleased to figure out that we could get off at the stop before the bus station and we’d have only a short walk to our new accommodation, Sumiyoshi ryokan. I knew it was on a side street, and could be a little hard to find, but after a few hiccups with Google maps, we found it surprisingly easily.
I had read about Sumiyoshi ryokan for the first time on this forum in crellston ’s trip report from a number of years ago and I knew I wanted to stay here. It sounded charming. And, believe me, it is!The Antique Inn Sumiyoshi is a very traditional ryokan overlooking the Miyagawa River, run by the sweetest people who can’t do enough to make their guests feel at home. It’s a simple place but so many lovely details found throughout the building.
We stayed at Sumiyoshi 3 nights and ate dinner here twice. It was fabulous. After the first night, we figured we’d try other places. But after eating elsewhere, we decided to have dinner at Sumiyoshi for our 3rd night - It was SO good and the experience was just so much more personal.
In fact, I’ve said it before but so much of our trip was enhanced by the interactions with people that we met, and Sumiyoshi is one of those places where the warmth and graciousness of the people really touched us.
Dec 19th, 2023, 12:17 PM
#138
Original Poster
Antique Inn Sumiyoshi
Front entrance
Antique Inn Sumiyoshi
The side street where Sumiyoshi is located
Sumiyoshi Interior
Sumiyoshi Interior - lots of antiques
Our room set up for sleep - the futons were flat the floor on the first night
Room details
Remember what this is?
The table is moved for the night to set up the futon
And after the first night, the floor chairs were used to create a small headboard. I thought it was very clever!
Dinner!
Our dinner room (regular chairs and tables!)
View from the room
Small garden at the back of the ryokan
Where we really sat!
Relaxing
But it’s the people that make it special
But it’s the people that make it special
But it’s the people that make it special
But it’s the people that make it special
Front entrance
Antique Inn Sumiyoshi
The side street where Sumiyoshi is located
Sumiyoshi Interior
Sumiyoshi Interior - lots of antiques
Our room set up for sleep - the futons were flat the floor on the first night
Room details
Remember what this is?
The table is moved for the night to set up the futon
And after the first night, the floor chairs were used to create a small headboard. I thought it was very clever!
Dinner!
Our dinner room (regular chairs and tables!)
View from the room
Small garden at the back of the ryokan
Where we really sat!
Relaxing
But it’s the people that make it special
But it’s the people that make it special
But it’s the people that make it special
But it’s the people that make it special
Dec 20th, 2023, 04:53 AM
#139
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It likes like where you stayed made a big difference in your impressions of both Takayama and the Okuhida area. One of my best accommodations was in Takayama as well; our machiya was the most spacious and comfortable of our entire trip. Looking forward to more of Takayama through your lens.
Dec 20th, 2023, 10:43 AM
#140
Glad to hear you liked Okuhida. Having suggested it without actually going there, I was worried that you might not like it, but you were well prepared.
How did you like sleeping on futons at Sumiyoshi?
How did you like sleeping on futons at Sumiyoshi?
