Cows, sarees and frequent bowel movements (Trip Report)
May 2nd, 2004, 05:13 PM
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Cows, sarees and frequent bowel movements (Trip Report)
We are back from India! It was a fascinating experience but one of the most intense and physically draining trip we've ever taken (and we have traveled all around the world). There's lots of great things in India like the awesome food, spices, beautiful clothes, culture, history, colors, spirituality but many bad things that hit you in the heart, like the abject poverty, malnourished child beggars with no clothes on, homeless people, intense heat, pollution, lack of sanitation, excrement, garbage everywhere that makes it overwhelming.
Where we went
--------------------------------------
We spent our time in the Golden Triangle (New Delhi, Agra & Jaipur)
Delhi was an interesting city, especially Old Delhi & the lively streets of Chadni Chowke (?). We visited the ancient monuments and Gandhi memorials. Loved the memorials to Gandhi.
Agra town center was just as chaotic and lively. Taj Mahal is as beautiful as one can imagine. We stayed at the magnificent Amarvilla Palace and had a balcony view of the Taj Mahal.
Jaipur was a magical place. There is a lot of history and culture. We went to the Cultural Village, Amber Fort, and other sites. Lots to do. Be wary of the touts and beggars in center of town across from the Palace of Winds. It was quite congested near there and we were glad to have a hotel away from center with a little quieter environment. We stayed at Trident Hilton overlooking the water and it was a great location! .
What we loved
--------------------------------------
In general, we loved how the cows roamed freely in the streets and how chaotic traffic appeared but still everything seem to flow naturally (streets had rickshaws, bicycles, cows, goats, cars, pedestrians, beggars all melding as one with no traffic laws but it all seem to flow naturally and no road rage) We loved the colorful saris women wore & how women (skinny or large) of all sized wore beautiful saris and didnt seem as self-conscious about body image as Westerners. We liked how the male relationships seem very close and how men are more close and affectionate (it is common to see 2 men hold hands in public). We loved the Indian food, especially Indian Chinese food. We loved the Bollywood cinemas. We saw a Hindi movie and it was a great experience. We got box seats and watched the movie with no subtitles but it was great and easy to follow. The movie theatres are different than the ones in US - they seem bigger and grander.
What we didn?t like
-----------------------------------------------------
OK, now for the bad part. We were careful with food we ate , took ALL precautions one can imagine! We did not eat meat or dairy, avoided all uncooked fruits/vegetables, did not drink any tap water (avoided ice, brushed our teeth with bottled water, did not open our mouth in shower, etc), we drank from bottled water with a seal, ate only at 5 star hotel restaurants or restaurants our Western friends ate and recommended, we disinfected our hands with Purell before any food went into our mouths, we also brought our own disposable utensils, if we felt the utensils were touched by waiters who looked unhealthy. Yes, we were CAREFUL! Unfortunately, despite all these precautions, we got food poisoning ? and it was horrible! We spent 3-5 days bed ridden with aches, nausea, continuous vomiting and uncontrollable diarrhea , the works! We went to a clinic and got antibiotics (cheap 100 rupees for walk in, 400 rupees for house call) We expected some mild case of "Delhi Belly" and even brought Immonium AD/Pepto with us but did not expect a severe bout of food poisoning. We now joking refer to this trip as the "Trip of loose stool". It couldve ruined our trip but we tried not to let it, but it really took a toll on our bodies.
The beggars will make you feel guilty. I am still filled with deep guilt about not giving more money to beggars. To see so many malnourished babies and young children who are dirty and homeless. Your spare change could feed the family for a week, and that makes you feel very bad. I was insistent on not giving money to the beggars, fearing that once you give to one, I would be swarmed by 100 others. However, now I am struck with guilt about not giving more. I know I shouldn?t and everyone says it's wise not to give to beggars but I have made up my mind that on my next trip, I will give more. The little ones we did give 1 or 2 rupees to gave us such a warm & appreciative smile, it was worth it.
Lessons Learned
---------------------
We rented a car to go to Jaipur. In India, when you rent a car, a driver usually comes with it. So, on our way back from Jaipur, we got into a car accident - we hit a cow on the highway! Cows are everywhere in India & this one came out of nowhere. As everyone knows, cows are sacred. In India, when you get into an accident, it's pretty much hit and run as no one has insurance and you're likely to get attacked by mobs in the street. So, we took off and drove away! The cow fell over and was dazed, but luckily, it got up! Then, we had to continue our drive with a completely shattered windshield, with cow bloodstains and all.
One thing I learned is that not everyone speaks English. I had always thought that everyone in India spoke English. However, it seem only educated people spoke English fluently. We hired several drivers through the course of our trip and NONE could speak English, aside from very basics like Hi, Yes, No. Also, none of the hired help at my friend?s house spoke any English either.
Another thing I learned to understand is that the Indian "Head Wiggle" does not mean affirmative answer. And the drivers do NOT know where the heck they are going! They tell you they do, but their trick is respond with a "Head Wiggle", which is a movement with their head that looks somewhat a mix between a nod and a shake. You think they are nodding but all it means is "I'm listening" So, people give you the head wiggle and drivers say they know where everything is but every 15 minutes, they hop out of the car to ask directions. It is quite interesting.
It was 105 degrees when we went. I did not have a problem with the heat. The mornings and evenings were very nice and I found the heat bearable but we avoided going out when it was the hottest - best thing is to go out early in the morning, take a siesta from 12 to 3 and then go back when its cooler.
Where we went
--------------------------------------
We spent our time in the Golden Triangle (New Delhi, Agra & Jaipur)
Delhi was an interesting city, especially Old Delhi & the lively streets of Chadni Chowke (?). We visited the ancient monuments and Gandhi memorials. Loved the memorials to Gandhi.
Agra town center was just as chaotic and lively. Taj Mahal is as beautiful as one can imagine. We stayed at the magnificent Amarvilla Palace and had a balcony view of the Taj Mahal.
Jaipur was a magical place. There is a lot of history and culture. We went to the Cultural Village, Amber Fort, and other sites. Lots to do. Be wary of the touts and beggars in center of town across from the Palace of Winds. It was quite congested near there and we were glad to have a hotel away from center with a little quieter environment. We stayed at Trident Hilton overlooking the water and it was a great location! .
What we loved
--------------------------------------
In general, we loved how the cows roamed freely in the streets and how chaotic traffic appeared but still everything seem to flow naturally (streets had rickshaws, bicycles, cows, goats, cars, pedestrians, beggars all melding as one with no traffic laws but it all seem to flow naturally and no road rage) We loved the colorful saris women wore & how women (skinny or large) of all sized wore beautiful saris and didnt seem as self-conscious about body image as Westerners. We liked how the male relationships seem very close and how men are more close and affectionate (it is common to see 2 men hold hands in public). We loved the Indian food, especially Indian Chinese food. We loved the Bollywood cinemas. We saw a Hindi movie and it was a great experience. We got box seats and watched the movie with no subtitles but it was great and easy to follow. The movie theatres are different than the ones in US - they seem bigger and grander.
What we didn?t like
-----------------------------------------------------
OK, now for the bad part. We were careful with food we ate , took ALL precautions one can imagine! We did not eat meat or dairy, avoided all uncooked fruits/vegetables, did not drink any tap water (avoided ice, brushed our teeth with bottled water, did not open our mouth in shower, etc), we drank from bottled water with a seal, ate only at 5 star hotel restaurants or restaurants our Western friends ate and recommended, we disinfected our hands with Purell before any food went into our mouths, we also brought our own disposable utensils, if we felt the utensils were touched by waiters who looked unhealthy. Yes, we were CAREFUL! Unfortunately, despite all these precautions, we got food poisoning ? and it was horrible! We spent 3-5 days bed ridden with aches, nausea, continuous vomiting and uncontrollable diarrhea , the works! We went to a clinic and got antibiotics (cheap 100 rupees for walk in, 400 rupees for house call) We expected some mild case of "Delhi Belly" and even brought Immonium AD/Pepto with us but did not expect a severe bout of food poisoning. We now joking refer to this trip as the "Trip of loose stool". It couldve ruined our trip but we tried not to let it, but it really took a toll on our bodies.
The beggars will make you feel guilty. I am still filled with deep guilt about not giving more money to beggars. To see so many malnourished babies and young children who are dirty and homeless. Your spare change could feed the family for a week, and that makes you feel very bad. I was insistent on not giving money to the beggars, fearing that once you give to one, I would be swarmed by 100 others. However, now I am struck with guilt about not giving more. I know I shouldn?t and everyone says it's wise not to give to beggars but I have made up my mind that on my next trip, I will give more. The little ones we did give 1 or 2 rupees to gave us such a warm & appreciative smile, it was worth it.
Lessons Learned
---------------------
We rented a car to go to Jaipur. In India, when you rent a car, a driver usually comes with it. So, on our way back from Jaipur, we got into a car accident - we hit a cow on the highway! Cows are everywhere in India & this one came out of nowhere. As everyone knows, cows are sacred. In India, when you get into an accident, it's pretty much hit and run as no one has insurance and you're likely to get attacked by mobs in the street. So, we took off and drove away! The cow fell over and was dazed, but luckily, it got up! Then, we had to continue our drive with a completely shattered windshield, with cow bloodstains and all.
One thing I learned is that not everyone speaks English. I had always thought that everyone in India spoke English. However, it seem only educated people spoke English fluently. We hired several drivers through the course of our trip and NONE could speak English, aside from very basics like Hi, Yes, No. Also, none of the hired help at my friend?s house spoke any English either.
Another thing I learned to understand is that the Indian "Head Wiggle" does not mean affirmative answer. And the drivers do NOT know where the heck they are going! They tell you they do, but their trick is respond with a "Head Wiggle", which is a movement with their head that looks somewhat a mix between a nod and a shake. You think they are nodding but all it means is "I'm listening" So, people give you the head wiggle and drivers say they know where everything is but every 15 minutes, they hop out of the car to ask directions. It is quite interesting.
It was 105 degrees when we went. I did not have a problem with the heat. The mornings and evenings were very nice and I found the heat bearable but we avoided going out when it was the hottest - best thing is to go out early in the morning, take a siesta from 12 to 3 and then go back when its cooler.
May 3rd, 2004, 04:45 AM
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Great report. Indeed India is not for everyone and your experiences echo my own. What you have said, good and bad, is true. It is fascinating and not for everyone. Glad you survived the heat. BTW we have had the good fortune to see the Taj 3 times and it is every bit as awe inspiring every time. Were you aware that the orig. plans called for an exact duplicate in black marble on the opposite bank of the river?
May 3rd, 2004, 05:39 AM
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Love the humour and humanity of your report - but doesn't everyone out there know that it's much safer to eat on the street fresh from an Indian 'wok' than in a 5 star hotel?
And as for everyone speakimg English - no, of course not. Why should they - almost one billion people and 300 languages of their own. As you didn't go south, you wouldn't have seen those signs in public places urging people to learn a Hindi word a day.
Only the 'middle class' are in a position to learn English. And even then - if you had had the time and inclination to take a rail journey (preferably a long one, and preferably in second class) you would have met a lot of wonderful and very informative people of the oforementioned 'middle class' who spoke English.But it's Indian English and it takes a while to get your ear attuned.
As to the poverty - well, not everwhere is like "home". It's shocking for a westerner. It's shocking - end of story. But India is the greatest democracy in the world for all that - admire!!
Wonderful country - most folk just do the 'Golden Triangle'. Go again - and visit the far north and the far south.
And as for everyone speakimg English - no, of course not. Why should they - almost one billion people and 300 languages of their own. As you didn't go south, you wouldn't have seen those signs in public places urging people to learn a Hindi word a day.
Only the 'middle class' are in a position to learn English. And even then - if you had had the time and inclination to take a rail journey (preferably a long one, and preferably in second class) you would have met a lot of wonderful and very informative people of the oforementioned 'middle class' who spoke English.But it's Indian English and it takes a while to get your ear attuned.
As to the poverty - well, not everwhere is like "home". It's shocking for a westerner. It's shocking - end of story. But India is the greatest democracy in the world for all that - admire!!
Wonderful country - most folk just do the 'Golden Triangle'. Go again - and visit the far north and the far south.
May 3rd, 2004, 06:29 AM
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This is the first time I have ever heard anyone say it is safer to eat from street vendors vs. a 5 star hotel and I must disagree. Everyone from our scores of Indian friends and relatives to travel clinic personnel says the opposite. Our experience with 5 star hotels has been good and I would recommend sticking to that. As this is the 1st time in India for the orig. poster I imagine his system was overwhelmed by "foreign" flora she was not used to. JM2C. Larry
May 3rd, 2004, 07:00 AM
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With respect to street food, my family (including our children) has traveled extensively and we always eat "hot" street food (freshly cooked or fried), even in India, and we have not gotten sick. We are much more wary in restaurants where we cannot see how the food is being prepared. At a street vendor location, we can see if the utensils are clean, if the cook is careful, etc.
May 3rd, 2004, 07:48 AM
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kiitycatangel
Enjoyed your report!!
Cows - It reminded me of the time when I was growing up in India- we had a german exchange student in our class and she kept talking about all these animals you have roaming around and we were puzzled as to what she was talking about. After I travelled to Europe - I realized how startling it must have been to see cows, goats, dogs cats on the road. And sometimes even a herd of donkeys in the more rural areas.
I should say though giving to beggars is a bad idea - yes the guilt tears at you but maybe you could donate to
ashanet.org
careindia.org or several other organizations within India.
These organizations do a lot of work with underprivileged children in India.
Enjoyed your report!!
Cows - It reminded me of the time when I was growing up in India- we had a german exchange student in our class and she kept talking about all these animals you have roaming around and we were puzzled as to what she was talking about. After I travelled to Europe - I realized how startling it must have been to see cows, goats, dogs cats on the road. And sometimes even a herd of donkeys in the more rural areas.
I should say though giving to beggars is a bad idea - yes the guilt tears at you but maybe you could donate to
ashanet.org
careindia.org or several other organizations within India.
These organizations do a lot of work with underprivileged children in India.
