China Coastal Trip - Please Help!
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3
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China Coastal Trip - Please Help!
Hi, I really need some help in planning a trip to China.
My husband and I were on a tour of China a long time ago (1970's) and went to big cities like Peking, Shanghai, and Hong Kong.
We have been reading Fodors and understand that we can now travel China without going with a tour, so we are going to try it on our own! BIG jump! One of us speaks Mandarin only and very rusty Mandarin!
We plan to land in Hong Kong and then work our way up the coast. We have a little over three weeks. Please tell us if this is a realistic plan:
Hong Kong, Shanghai, Suchou, Hangchou, Peking, Chengde, Shenyang, Changbaishan, and Harbin. Then flight back to Hong Kong.
Should we do this all by train? I've read that there are buses that can be taken. Will it safe for an older couple?
Should we add in Guilin? We were pretty much fogged in when we went last time. Are there any other places along the coast that we should add?
We plan to be there in late May and early June. Is this too late to be negotiating for hotels? Should we book our rooms in advance? What about the trains and buses? Can we just arrive and buy tickets - will there be room on the trains and buses during this time of year? As you can see, I'm the hesitant one and my husband wants to just "chance it".
I need any help - and assurance - you can give me! Please help! Thanks!
My husband and I were on a tour of China a long time ago (1970's) and went to big cities like Peking, Shanghai, and Hong Kong.
We have been reading Fodors and understand that we can now travel China without going with a tour, so we are going to try it on our own! BIG jump! One of us speaks Mandarin only and very rusty Mandarin!
We plan to land in Hong Kong and then work our way up the coast. We have a little over three weeks. Please tell us if this is a realistic plan:
Hong Kong, Shanghai, Suchou, Hangchou, Peking, Chengde, Shenyang, Changbaishan, and Harbin. Then flight back to Hong Kong.
Should we do this all by train? I've read that there are buses that can be taken. Will it safe for an older couple?
Should we add in Guilin? We were pretty much fogged in when we went last time. Are there any other places along the coast that we should add?
We plan to be there in late May and early June. Is this too late to be negotiating for hotels? Should we book our rooms in advance? What about the trains and buses? Can we just arrive and buy tickets - will there be room on the trains and buses during this time of year? As you can see, I'm the hesitant one and my husband wants to just "chance it".
I need any help - and assurance - you can give me! Please help! Thanks!
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,778
Likes: 0
A lot of your questions are answered in China guide books, and if you use the search box at the top of the page you'll also find more material here relating to most of them.
> Hong Kong, Shanghai,
Do HK to Xiamen by ferry. There's a nice ship on that route, and Xiamen makes a good starting point for the mainland. From Xiamen there are trains to Shanghai (although there are other points of interest in Fujian and Zhejiang you could stop at--but there's a lot on your itinerary as it is.) Of course, the express directly from Kowloon to Shanghai is much quicker.
> Suchou, Hangchou,
Hangzhou first, if coming from Xiamen--the train will drop you there. Possible ferry to Suzhou along Grand Canal, or bus (quicker) or train to Shanghai. From Shanghai by train to Suzhou.
> Peking,
Overnight express train from Suzhou/Shanghai
> Chengde,
Comfortable express buses are quickest, or there's a choice of two morning trains
>Shenyang,
Train
> Changbaishan, and Harbin.
Again train.
> Will it safe for an older couple?
There are no safety problems. Some caution against theft is necessary, but no more than you would show at railways stations, etc. elsewhere.
> Should we add in Guilin?
Its rather out of your way.
> Are there any other places along the coast that we should add?
Xiamen already suggested. Quanzhou is pleasant. Putuo Shan a little different from anything else on your list and with connections to Hangzhou and Shanghai. If anything I'd suggest a deviation into real countryside, since most of the destinations listed are major tourist traps, and have little to do with the reality of China (although Changbai Shan is a little unusual, except for Korean visitors).
> We plan to be there in late May and early June. Is this too late to be negotiating for hotels?
No. This is not a peak travel season in China. You should negotiate on arrival.
>Should we book our rooms in advance?
Completely unnecessary.
> What about the trains and buses? Can we just arrive and buy tickets - will there be room on the trains and buses during this time of year?
Yes and yes. Book your train tickets out on arrival (typically maximum four days in advance, but expanding now to 12 days in some parts of the country. Bus tickets are available typically 24 hours ahead, but the only reason to buy that far in advance is to make sure you are in the very front seats with the best views. For the train tickets, if you want to avoid the station, just use a local agent to get them and pay around Y20 per ticket.
> As you can see, I'm the hesitant one and my husband wants to just "chance it".
Just forget that you ever went to China in the 1970s--it's completely irrelevant to the modern experience of travel in China. You don't have to use CITS--you can do everything for yourself (especially with rusty Mandarin), or use a myriad other private agencies for getting tickets. Each city has an oversupply of hotels all keen for your business, and for Chinese-run hotels in particular, by bargaining over the counter you'll often pay only 50% of the advance price. Trains in the east are mostly very clean, airconditioned, politely staffed, although the food on board is poor, and you should take your own. Buses in the east are often Volvo or Mercedes or equivalent, with on board attendant, free mineral water, airconditioning, big comfortable seats, etc. especially on the kind of big city to big city routes you are taking.
Peter N-H
http://members.shaw.ca/pnhpublic/China.html
> Hong Kong, Shanghai,
Do HK to Xiamen by ferry. There's a nice ship on that route, and Xiamen makes a good starting point for the mainland. From Xiamen there are trains to Shanghai (although there are other points of interest in Fujian and Zhejiang you could stop at--but there's a lot on your itinerary as it is.) Of course, the express directly from Kowloon to Shanghai is much quicker.
> Suchou, Hangchou,
Hangzhou first, if coming from Xiamen--the train will drop you there. Possible ferry to Suzhou along Grand Canal, or bus (quicker) or train to Shanghai. From Shanghai by train to Suzhou.
> Peking,
Overnight express train from Suzhou/Shanghai
> Chengde,
Comfortable express buses are quickest, or there's a choice of two morning trains
>Shenyang,
Train
> Changbaishan, and Harbin.
Again train.
> Will it safe for an older couple?
There are no safety problems. Some caution against theft is necessary, but no more than you would show at railways stations, etc. elsewhere.
> Should we add in Guilin?
Its rather out of your way.
> Are there any other places along the coast that we should add?
Xiamen already suggested. Quanzhou is pleasant. Putuo Shan a little different from anything else on your list and with connections to Hangzhou and Shanghai. If anything I'd suggest a deviation into real countryside, since most of the destinations listed are major tourist traps, and have little to do with the reality of China (although Changbai Shan is a little unusual, except for Korean visitors).
> We plan to be there in late May and early June. Is this too late to be negotiating for hotels?
No. This is not a peak travel season in China. You should negotiate on arrival.
>Should we book our rooms in advance?
Completely unnecessary.
> What about the trains and buses? Can we just arrive and buy tickets - will there be room on the trains and buses during this time of year?
Yes and yes. Book your train tickets out on arrival (typically maximum four days in advance, but expanding now to 12 days in some parts of the country. Bus tickets are available typically 24 hours ahead, but the only reason to buy that far in advance is to make sure you are in the very front seats with the best views. For the train tickets, if you want to avoid the station, just use a local agent to get them and pay around Y20 per ticket.
> As you can see, I'm the hesitant one and my husband wants to just "chance it".
Just forget that you ever went to China in the 1970s--it's completely irrelevant to the modern experience of travel in China. You don't have to use CITS--you can do everything for yourself (especially with rusty Mandarin), or use a myriad other private agencies for getting tickets. Each city has an oversupply of hotels all keen for your business, and for Chinese-run hotels in particular, by bargaining over the counter you'll often pay only 50% of the advance price. Trains in the east are mostly very clean, airconditioned, politely staffed, although the food on board is poor, and you should take your own. Buses in the east are often Volvo or Mercedes or equivalent, with on board attendant, free mineral water, airconditioning, big comfortable seats, etc. especially on the kind of big city to big city routes you are taking.
Peter N-H
http://members.shaw.ca/pnhpublic/China.html
#3
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 23,073
Likes: 0
Between Hong Kong and Shanghai, there's a direct train every other day that has the "Deluxe Soft Sleeper" with only 2 people in a cabin (and 18 people per car, I believe). [HK - Beijing on the alternate days.] Nice way to travel. I believe you can get off at Hangzhou.
#4
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Last time I was in China we stayed mainly in ZhuHai (about an hour away from HK by speedboat) and I love that place. It is not quite a large city, but it is right on the South China Sea and on the border of Macau. Really lovely place! If you get a chance, I would go into Macau for a day. They still have a strong Portuguese influence with the architecture and narrow cobble stone streets. I didn't need a visa to enter, but you'll need another visa to enter back into China, so if you only have single entry...nevermind.
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Thanks to all for your wonderful suggestions!
Peter: thank you so very much for your detailed replies! You have given me a great deal of reassurance to just take the leap! Our personal Great Leap Forward - hehe! We are going to Changbaishan because my husband is part Korean, part Chinese, and part other nationalities, so he's sort of "going home".
rkkwan: we are looking into your excellent suggestion and believe that it is possible. Thanks for suggesting the "deluxe soft" sleeper.
sara: unfortunately, we have only a single entry on our visa. I didn't know we could get multiple entries. Well, my husband was handling the visa end of things. Thanks for the suggestion, anyhow.
We've decided not to go to Harbin, and to substitute some "country" places as Peter has suggested! We leave in 18 days! Thanks again!
Peter: thank you so very much for your detailed replies! You have given me a great deal of reassurance to just take the leap! Our personal Great Leap Forward - hehe! We are going to Changbaishan because my husband is part Korean, part Chinese, and part other nationalities, so he's sort of "going home".
rkkwan: we are looking into your excellent suggestion and believe that it is possible. Thanks for suggesting the "deluxe soft" sleeper.
sara: unfortunately, we have only a single entry on our visa. I didn't know we could get multiple entries. Well, my husband was handling the visa end of things. Thanks for the suggestion, anyhow.
We've decided not to go to Harbin, and to substitute some "country" places as Peter has suggested! We leave in 18 days! Thanks again!



