Hi we are travelling to Tokyo for visit relatives Dec. 19-January 2. This is our first trip to Japan so we want to sightsee as well. Because we have access to free accomodations in central Tokyo, we want to take advantage of that by exploring Tokyo and area as much as possible... but we would love some comments. here is our itinerary so far.

December 19-21 Arrive Tokyo, visit a few shops and sights.

December 22,23,24 Kyoto area

December 25-29 Back in Tokyo. Do day trips to Hakone and Kamakura

December 30-31 Overnight trip to Nikko (this is already booked) back in Tokyo for New Years Eve.

Jan 1-- Meji Shrine, visit Imperial Palace

Jan 2-- Last day in Tokyo. Fly out that evening.


Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Bonjour Orangeboy,

Try to be in Kyoto on the 21st, for the last flea-market of the year at Toji temple, 15 min on foot South of the station. Great ambiance, great bargains, good time to buy second-hand kimonos and small pieces of antiques. You won't see many non-Japanese and the sellers tend to be generous with discounts at this time of year.

On Jan 1, try to visit less well known temples or areas, like Yanaka near Ueno station (follow the "7 gods of fortune trail" starting at the Benten temple in Shinobazu pond near Ueno Park). Less spectacular than Meiji, but you'll see more traditional architecture and way of life, + lots of boutiques, galleries and craft shops are open.

Okay, thanks for the advice! That brings me to my next question: New Years Eve. What does one do in Tokyo on New Years Eve? Will most places (resturants etc.) be open? Also, will shops and depato be open on Jan. 2? As that is our last day in Tokyo I am sure some last minute shopping will be one of the things we want to do!

On New Year's Eve, most Japanese are busy cleaning their house, displaying special decorations, and buying the special food for the 1st. For non agoraphobic tourists, it is a great time to hang around food markets (Ameya Yokocho near Ueno station is one of my favorite) for a glimpse of Japanese doing last minute shopping.

In the evening, most people will gather with families, sports clubs, etc, and eat special noodles, called "toshikoshi soba" (the word soba means "long life" or "good luck" depending on how it is written) around midnight, then either go to bed or to a temple nearby in order to try to sound the bell, which ensure good luck and health for the household.

Some restaurants will be open, and the subway will run all night so that those who want can tour temples, shrines, restaurants and night-clubs.

On the 1st, people will try to go to a temple or shrine at sunrise (or more likely as soon as they recover from overdrinking the night before), then visit friends and neighbors, families will gather around the special food, then maybe visit a famous temple/shrine, although the famous 1st visit (hatsumode) can be done within the 5 first days of the year.

A note of caution here: I've been often warned by my Japanese friends that it is one of the very few occasions where there is a risk of being a victim of pickpockets around the more famous places like Asakusa, although I've never heard of a tourist being robbed.

Many dept stores will be open on the 1st, selling among other things "fuku bukuro" (surprise lucky bags). A favorite pastime of middle-aged ladies is to almost wrestle one another for the best bags at prestigious depatos (Mitsukoshi, Daimaru, ...).

The 2nd is the start of January sales. Depatos are definitely open, although many smaller shops won't.

Thank you Florence! Your comments are most valuable. If I could bother you for one more question:

A Japan Rail Pass for 14 days is about Y40,000. Now, my question is this: Is it truly a good deal (with this itinerary in mind) or is is better to simply purchase tix separatly. It is all very confusing with the surcharges to figure out exaclty what the price of a shinkasen ticket is. Also, will we truly be able to make use of the pass in Tokyo..or is it more practical to use the actual subways... The JNTO send a package on Japan Rail schedules and the JPN rail pass rules and now I'm even more confused!!! Oh well, it is all part of the fun isn't it?

The most popular Shinkansen ride, Tokyo to Kyoto, costs about 13,000 yen one-way. So four such rides in 14 days will more than pay for the pass at 45,100 yen. I say get it.
You can use the pass on Tokyo's suburban lines, including the useful Yamanote loop line. Subways are often more convenient for cross-town trips, like Shibuya to Ginza or Asakusa. But as most journeys in Central Tokyo cost less than 200 yen, it's a minor expense.

I have read above helpful posts with interests. Ameyoko is a good suggestion. I might feel a bit agoraphobic being there but still like the lively market atomosphere. I buy different sorts of dried foods there, shiitake, surume, etc.

Florence, as far as I know, the word "soba" does not mean anything besides "buckwheat"or "buckwheat noodles". It's the thin and long shape of the noodle which the Japenese associate with long life (preferring to thick and short = lots of fortune but not long lasting). But I do hope I'm not being forgetful. It's been a longtime since I spent a new year in Japan.

Bonjour Kite,

I guess you're right about the meanings of "soba".
I had some explanations from my kendo sensei during a noodle eating session on NY-eve, but since there was more sake than noodles and sensei is fond of jokes, bad puns, strange nicknames and plays on words, I may well have misunderstood what he said ;-)