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China - trip notes - back 5/29/08

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China - trip notes - back 5/29/08

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Old May 31st, 2008, 10:10 AM
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China - trip notes - back 5/29/08

Originial itinerary (May 8 to May 29)
Shanghai 3 nights
Zhangjiajie, Hunnan 3 nights
Jiuzhaigou, Shitran, 2 nights
Kunming, Yunan 1 night
Dali, Yunnan, 1 night
LiJiang, Yunnan 3 night
Kunming, Yunnan, 1 night
Shanghai 7 nights

We booked a 4 star tour with a Chinese tour company based in Suzhang, there were 8 of us on the first part of the tour and only 5 on the Yunnan portion of the tour – all except my husband speak Chinese. The national guide and local guides didn’t speak English (you can get an English speaking guide upon special request), so I had to translate for Rick, he seemed to be ok with it. The accommodations were all very good and the food was really outstanding.

After the earthquake hit, we could not go to Jiuzhaigou because the road into the area was blocked by a rock slide, and some of the bridges collapsed, so the tour company modified our itinerary to add one day onto Zhangjiajie and one day onto LiJiang. They issued an acceptable adjustment refund to cover the cost differential.

I will start by mentioning that I am very impressed by how much China has progressed since I was there the last time (in 2005). The cities are quite clean, the government are making a conscious and notable effort toward protecting the environment, planting tress everywhere, most cities have lots of green belts. I did not encounter to a public bathroom that I literally had to run out of, like I did in 2005. Overall, I was very impressed.

The country also seemed to come together with the earthquake disaster. I am a Chinese and I have always felt that Chinese people are family oriented but not county oriented. This time I saw that everyone was trying to help and there is a certain pride of being Chinese that I did not see before. Needless to say, I was very touched and proud.

We stayed in the Shanghai JW Marriott (using Marriott Reward points) for 3 days before going on the tour. Great hotel, centrally located, close to a major subway station, the Shanghai Museum, and a pedestrian walking street...

The food on this tour was unbelievably good. Last time we were in China with Pacific Delight (2004) with other Americans and the food that PD ordered was what they thought foreigners would like, and did not represent the good local cuisines at all. For us, one key to an enjoyable experience is having authentic local food.

Zhangjiajie is famous for its mountains, they are absolutely beautiful. We spent two days in the National Forest Park. The entrance ticket looks like a credit card, and you will be finger printed for the ticket when you enter (but there is no link to your actual identity). The ticket is for multiple entries into the park, so keep it for as long as you need (we needed it for two days). If you lose it, you will have to pay the hefty entrance fee again (I don’t know how much, but assume it is hefty). There are no tour buses allowed in the park, you have to take the environmentally friendly bus that was provided by the park to get around, sort of like Denali Park in Alaska. Lot’s of beautiful peaks, lots of walking, maybe 4 km in the morning and 3 to 4 km in the afternoon but lots of steps. It is beautiful and you would need a lot of imagination to see the shapes that the Chinese are naming the peaks. I think it is 30% likeness and 70% imagination. The restrooms are all adequate, and the park spotless. There is a cave (Yellow Dragon Cave) in Zhangjiajie, nothing really spectacular. It was famous because the owner (he bought a 50 year rights to the cave) bought a 100,000,000RMB ($14.3million) insurance for a 19.2 meter column formation in the cave.

This is really off the beaten track for American/European tourists. We did not see another Caucasian person the whole time we were in Zhangjiajie, in fact, at one point I couldn’t find Rick, I just asked a park worker if he saw a white person passing that way. Sure enough I found him with no trouble at all. Lots of Koreans, in fact, the hotels usually serve kimchee for breakfast among other things.

There are two major minority groups in Zhangjiajie, the Maio and Bai. There are no written languages for these two groups and they communicate with songs. Everyone (including the tour guides) can sing beautifully there. This is their dating ritual. If a boy likes a girl, he steps on her foot lightly. If she likes him back, she steps on his foot hard. Then they start singing. They guy has to be able to reply in at least three songs in order to pass the test. If not, then traditionally the boy has to work for the girl’s family in his spare time for 9 years before she can marry him.

Our next stop was Kunming, Yunnan. Because of the high altitude, Yunnan has wonderful weather. I was getting a slight headache from the altitude (I am guessing because I don’t usually get headaches). We had Diamox (altitude pills) with us so we started taking them. The headache was gone almost immediately but our toes and fingers were tingling in the morning (side effect)... you win some you loose some.

We took a walk in the evening outside our hotel and found a street with tons of street food vendors. They serve several different kinds of worms! Big ones, little ones.... and crickets too. I wish I had the nerve to try one, all the locals seemed to enjoy them.

It rained cats and dogs when we were in Dali. We went to the Butterfly Spring, all the butterflies knew better to stay out of the rain, so we saw none. We were so wet, our driver took us to one of the hotels that he knows well and got us a couple of rooms to dry up for free.

We stayed in Lijiang for 4 nights, it was a wonderful city. Couple of memorable events there.

We were at the Impression Lijiang show when the 3-day memorial for the quake victims started. It was such a moving experience, I don’t think I will ever forget it. They moved the show time up 20 minutes so the show ended at 2:20pm. At this point, we had no idea that the government had imposed a 3-day memorial. When we were trying to leave the stadium, the ushers told us to stay at our seat a little longer for an announcement. Then they started a hand signed with a silent screen with words for the memorial service. At 2:28 there was a 3-minute silent prayer for the victims.

We saw a famous calligrapher in Old Town Lijiang who writes beautifully. He has no arms, and holds the brush with his teeth. He was truly awe inspiring.

We went to a farm house for lunch one day, one of the best meals we had. All the food except for the yak meat on sizzling plate were grown on the farm. The chicken, mushrooms, veggies, pork, eggs, and even the watermelon. The house was spotless and environmentally friendly. They have florescent lighting and solar panels for heating. There were a couple of disinfecting cabins for the dishes and utensils. The name of the restaurant is Lijiang Sour Ants Hot Pot Chicken, I know it doesn’t make sense, but that is the name in Chinese on their business card. The phone number is 0888-6662279. No street address. If you call them they will pick you up at your hotel. They are about 15 minutes walk from the Old Town.

Yunnan has the most different tribes of minorities in China. There are over 50 different tribes there. They all sing too. Different dating rituals. One of them involves squeezing hands. The most unusual is a tribe that doesn’t believe in marriage. The women calls the shot there, they can choose a different man every night if they want to. They hang a shoe outside their door if they already have company for the night. The children are raised by the mother and the mother’s brothers, they don’t usually know who their father is. The women has a much higher status in that society. Wow, talk about women’s lib.

We went back to Shanghai after Yunnan, staying in JW Marriott again (love those points!). Shanghai was very hot, in the 90’s and humid. We ate mostly in the hotel since breakfast was included and there were afternoon snacks (sandwiches, fruits, veggies, hot little dishes...) at 5:30 and desserts at 7:30. So, we basically only had lunch outside the hotel.

We went to the well known Ding Tai Fung for dumplings (xiao-long-boa) and was quite disappointed. The dumplings were just average in my opinion and lukewarm. However, we really liked the dumplings in Old Town Shanghai’s Nanxiang Restaurant. There are three stories in this building. The ground floor is for take out, you get 10 steamed dumplings for 10RMB, long lines there and a couple of hours wait can be typical. Then the second floor, a sit down restaurant is a little more expensive, long line there too, maybe one hour. The third floor has 3 restaurants, one has a minimum of 25RMB per person, the next one has a minimum of 65RMB, and the third one has a minimum of 150RMB. We picked the 65RMB one and only waited 5 minutes. We also tryed to go to Jia Jia Dumpling House, but it did not have air conditioning and we just could not imagine eating hot dumplings in 90 degree humid weather with no air. So we went to Yang’s Fried Dumplings on Wujiang Lu instead (air conditioned of course). I am so glad we did, but regretted that we did not find this gem earlier. It was the best fried dumpling I have ever had. Cheap too, only 1RMB per dumpling. The fried dumplings are a lot bigger then the steam dumplings. We had 12 of them between the two of us, and were stuffed to the gills. You eat them like the steamed dumplings, nip off a little piece of the skin and suck the juice first. Because it is much bigger, a lot more juice too. We found the place with the recommendation from our Marriott Executive Lounge hostess. It was a local favorite. Just writing about the food makes my mouth water. Yummmm....

General Tips:

I had a blouse custom tailored while in Shanghai. A dressy blouse (lining and sequins) for my upcoming Alaska cruise in July. It costs 200RMB including the material and labor. It was very nicely done.

We took buses and subways whenever possible, they are clean, air conditioned, reasonably priced, fast, and convenient. The stops were announced in both Chinese and accented English.

On our arrival we took the Maglev from Pudong Airport into Shanghai. It was worth it for the experience, but not worth it as a means for commuting. The train stops at the out skirts of Shanghai, and then you have to either transfer to a subway or take a taxi into Shanghai. If you take the subway, you have to lug your luggage up and down the stairs, they don’t always have escalators, you might save 50RMB if two of you are traveling but it will take longer. If you take the taxi, then you are not saving any money or time.

Most hotels have internet, if you have your own computer with you, the wireless connections are usually free but sometimes not too fast.

Taking cash vs. trying to use credit cards seems a good way to go, however, order brand new $100 bills from your bank before you go, since they are very leery of counterfeit currency and will often not accept used bills during the exchange transaction. Also, the largest generally used currency note is 100RMB ... try to get a good stock of 5, 10, and 20 RMB bills from your hotel or bank where you make the exchange and try to pay for things with nearly exact change to avoid getting counterfeit Chinese currency in your change.

Tipping: none for taxis, none for restaurants, luggage handlers about 5RMB per room, drivers, local guide, and national guide at your discretion.

Bottled water generally available everywhere, but price and vary from 2 to 20RMB per bottle.

Pat and Rick
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Old May 31st, 2008, 10:28 AM
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Great trip and great report. If it isn't being too nosey, how much did it all cost so that others planning similar would have a price to work on?
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Old May 31st, 2008, 10:53 AM
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Loved your comments.
-Did you take the chairlift or gondola up Jade Dragon Snow Mtn.& to which level? If you went to the top, did you rent oxygen bottles or did your Diamox suffice?
-Did you have a choice of seats at the Impression Show? Is it worthwhile spending more for a better seat?
-Did you eat western breakfasts in Lijiang & where?
-In Shanghai, did you go up the Pearl or Jin Mao Tower for views?
-Where did you stay & where did you eat dinner in Dali?
Thanks
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Old May 31st, 2008, 11:08 AM
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Thanks so much for your report! I am glad you got through your trip safely. I appreciate your report of how the Chinese have pulled together in the aftermath of the quake.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 03:29 PM
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Syberia,
Our tour, not including the Shanghai portion (11 days) was originally 13,260RMB/pp. After the change of itinerary we received 6,040RMB/pp refund because the flight into Jiuzhaigou was really expensive. The costs included all flights, hotels, meals, bus, entrance fees, shows, cable cars...

Syl,
-Did you take the chairlift or gondola up Jade Dragon Snow Mtn.& to which level?
Yes. All the way to the top, there was only one level, no stops in between.
-Did you rent oxygen bottles or did your Diamox suffice?
We rented a coat (40RMB) but did not buy the oxygen (40RMB). It was snowing at the top but not too cold. We were soaked to the bone in Dali the day before, so we did not venture out onto the snow, only walked around the deck area. There is a little toboggan ride at the top if you want to stand in line and play in the snow some.

-Did you have a choice of seats at the Impression Show?
I am not sure, I thought it was open seating. I was going to sit close to the stage but our tour guide told us to sit closer to the top to get better camera views. I am glad we did, you get a much better view near the top. All the seats were very good (comfortable too, a stump with cushion), I would not want to sit too close to the wall to the left of the stage (if you are facing the stage), when they turn on the waterfall half way through the show and you will get wet. They do provide you with rain coats though.

-Did you eat western breakfasts in Lijiang & where?
All the hotels in China included breakfast, our hotel breakfast there was the worst of our trip. In fact, one night we were supposed to have dinner there, and everyone on our tour refused the eat there. The rooms were good, with free wireless internet in the room if you have your laptop with you. Can't remember the English name of the hotel, the Chinese name means Golden Stream.
We had the best Cross the Bridge noodle in Lijiang, again, I don't know the English name for the restaurant since it was not on their business card. Their phone number is 0888-5185186. The legend behind "crossing bridge noodles" involves a student studying for the imperial exam (which was given once per year). He went to study on an island a short ways away from his wife and village. Everyday his wife would bring him food, but because of the distance (she had to cross a bridge) the food would get cold. The student's wife figured out that by layering the broth with oil, she could keep the food hot.
-In Shanghai, did you go up the Pearl or Jin Mao Tower for views?
We did not go up the Pearl but did go up the Jin Mao Tower (I think that is the name, 88 floors?). The cost was 70RMB/pp to go up, don't think it is worth it. Our room in the JW Marriott was on the 59th floor, I think the view was just as good when it was not too foggy/smoggy. What we did that I thought was really nice was take the #2 line subway to Lu Jia Zui (across the HuangPo from the Bund) and have mango ice cream and fruit at Hui Lau Shan. This place is between a small McDonald and a Starbucks. Sitting by the river watching the boats go by was very pleasant. I also like the Lu Jia Zui area better than the Bund. I heard they are going to renovate the Bund soon.
-Where did you stay & where did you eat dinner in Dali?
We stayed in Mei Dun Hotel (that's what it sounded like in Chinese). We cruised around Run Lake in the morning, it was very nice. There were a couple of stops along the way and a show on the boat. We reserved a private cabin which we paid a little extra out of pocket. We had dinner at someone's house, a restaurant really but the owner's quarters is right there on the same floor. I didn't see a name for the restaurant. The food was good and plentiful.

Kathie,
It was really gratifying for me, a feeling I will always remember.

Pat
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Old Jun 3rd, 2008, 09:10 AM
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Pat,

Thanks for your excellent report. As you probably know (23 Days in China) we ate at Yang's, Jia, Jia and NanXiang in Shanghai and enjoyed them all. Some day I hope to get to Lijiang and will definitely make use of your notes for that portion of the trip.

Linda
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Old Jun 3rd, 2008, 03:44 PM
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Pat -- Very thankful you made it home safely and really appreciate you sharing your experience with us, it is enlightening and moving. Just a couple of questions:

Did you travel to the village ruled by women? I think it is an island in a lake, very fascinating. I guess your tour didn't include the Stone Forest in Kunming, did it?

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Old Jun 3rd, 2008, 03:47 PM
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Oooh, when are you heading back to China again? Summer can be very hot ...
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Old Jun 6th, 2008, 02:39 PM
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Shanghainese,

I know September is hot in China, but this visit is only sitting at home playing mahjong, got to restaurants, and catching up. Shouldn't be too bad.

We did visit the Stone Forest, it was beautiful. We hired a electric car, so didn't have to walk too much.

Did not visit the village that ruled by women, but heard all about it.

Went to the gym today for the first time after China, thought I was going to die.

Pat

Pat
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