QWPC

The Chee family just had their own local 'bai san' here in Hawaii yesterday, and it was fascinating to hear the Chan-style back in the old country. The idea is to spend time as one family together once a year, and not leave out your ancestors. Sugar cane is to prolong your stay, as you need to take time to chew it to get all the flavor out, -then you are supposed to litter the place with the leftovers so all the visitors and spirits will see how big and generous the family is! Sounds like you and Kirsten are having a very special and wonderful trip. Usually, in Hawaii, guava is used to stop the runs...hmmmm. Love reading everything you write!

dgunbug

Wow - great report. I am loving reading it and taking copious notes for a future trip. Can't wait for the rest!

jayc

April 18, 2009
“Uncle Joe”

We were planning to take the ferry from Jiangmen to HK. Yucca hotel had a free direct shuttle but when it got to about 8:10am and it had not yet arrived we caught a cab $40 Yuan. Taxi turned off his meter. Once last poke in the ass before we leave China. I was ready to leave the third world and start living like a westerner again. China is cheap, and I love peasant life but I am not about to start trading it for the first world, no way no how!

The ferry $400 Yuan for two, took about 3 hours and it was fairly rough. The swells were big enough that we were catching some good air off them. It wasn’t actually a ferry, more like a small Catamaran jet boat. Taking the ferry was not a great experience. Slow, rough, smelly and dirty not a nice way to travel. My wife had to fight nausea for the last ½ hour of trip as she had gone to the bathroom and people sea sick all over in there. She came out white as a ghost and she is half Chinese with a tan LOL. Clearing the customs on the other side was a bit of a hassle as well. No one on the ship had handed out customs forms and when we got to the customs officer gave us some attitude about not having them filled out. Oh well, at least we were in Hong Kong.

My Uncle Joe (one of my all time favorite people) picked us up at the terminal. It was great to see him. It had been 12 years! We walked from the station to the Kowloon Hotel, our home for the next 3 nights. $80 US per night thanks Dad (he Pricelined it for us, I still owe him $$$ but hopefully he forgets LOL). Kowloon Hotel is very small, but very clean, location is right in the heart of tourist town, has great cable (lots of Soccer Champions League which I love) and everything you would need in a room including safe and very powerful AC.

After we checked in (Kowloon Hotel let us check in at 12:00pm Thanks Kowloon Hotel!) and we immediately went out for Dim Sum. Uncle Joe took us to a place in Tsim Sai Tsui that is quite famous. Its got pictures of Chow Yun Fat (Crouching Tiger) plastered all over. I can see why, their Dim Sum was great. We ate so much: Black bean chicken feet, little dragon balls (sew loong bow), BBQ Eel, roasted goose, cheung fun, beef balls and more. It was really good as most HK meals are. Some of the best flavors, local and international, can be found in this city of lights. Not a bad price either $350 HK.

Side Note: My Dad is the ultimate Priceliner. He always gets the sweetest deals. He swears by naming his own price for all hotels and always manages to luck out and hook up great deals. He should replace Shatner in the commercials “Denny Crane!”.

After lunch my Uncle left us to rest (got to love a guy that gives you some space) as we were meeting up for dinner later. I took my wife to my old stomping grounds Causeway Bay and showed her where I used to live. Of course no trip to HK is complete without their famous Sai Doe Si (HK French Toast: Basically a peanut butter sandwich dredged in egg wash, grilled in lots of oil, topped with a hunk of butter and served with honey) and a Dong Lai Chai (HK Iced Tea with Cream: Not going to post the recipe for this, will have to go to HK or www.samuelsrestaurant.com to try as I am going to put it on the menu, the secret tea leaves are in my backpack) so when we took the MTR up to Causeway Bay the first thing I did was take her to the local restaurant for one. It was as greasy as I remember, delicious.

Observation: Hong Kong has changed quite a bit in ten years. Big melting pot of culture now. Very much like Vancouver now without the fresh air, mountain views and the Vancouver Canucks(GO CANUCKS JUST THROTTLING ST. LOUIS RIGHT NOW). .

After our meal and a walk around Wan Chai and Causeway Bay, it was raining pretty heavily (HK has crazy tropical rains like Hawaii) so we turned in for a rest until we were to meet with my Uncle for dinner.

Dinner was hot pot. It was good, but to be honest I am not a huge hot pot fan. For those of you out there that don’t know what hot pot is I will break it down for you quickly: You get a Hot Pot of broth or stock in the middle of the table and then raw seafood, meat and veggies are brought which you are to cook in the water.

Frankly it is not my favorite. Not much flavor, a lot of work and you never seem to get full enough (sorry Uncle Joe didn’t have the heart to tell you but I must be honest). It’s not for me but people seem to really like it. It’s more of a social thing. I will say I enjoyed this hot pot dinner more than usual because of the company ☺.

April 19-20, 2009
“HK “A” okay”

The next two days was basically family time so I won’t bore you with that many details. I will just give you a quick summary:
We ate tons, visited with family and shopped a bit. That’s about it.

I am never short of words though so I will mention a few things I noticed in HK:

Most of the news that was on TV regarding the financial crisis was positive. People here just don’t seem that worried about economic conditions. Everyone over here is hurting, but no one is showing it. These people are resilient and over the last 100 years have seen it all. These people live with no fear of losing it all overnight because they can make it back in one day. The HK skyline and overall swagger of their citizens says it all. They all seem to know “the secret” and we North Americans should stop crying over spilt milk and look to the future, just like the HK people. Restaurants were packed and tables were covered in Abalone and Shark Fin soup (what recession??).

This brings me to my next topic. I have decided I will never eat shark fin again. I was offered in HK and I declined. Without sharks, the ocean cannot and will not survive. Without the ocean, the human race cannot survive. I am a big ocean guy. I love Hawaii, I love to eat fish (the whole fish not just the fins, including the head), I love the view, I even love the smell of it. I won’t judge or preach to others if they want to eat it, but this is my trip report so I am asking people to watch the movie Sharkwater and give up eating shark fin, please. It’s not even that good and it’s ridiculously expensive.

A few HK tips:

-Travel by MTR, buy tourist day passes for $50 HK. The MTR basically can reach every part of HK now. One of the best subway systems in the world. Clean, safe, English signage, AC and efficient.

-The girls on the billboards that say 350HK probably don’t look like that LOL.

-Eat in the hole in the wall restaurants. They have the best food and are relatively clean and cheap.

-Don’t stay in Tsim Sai Tsui if you can, just visit for the light show (8pm nightly) and skyline views. Its expensive and the solicitors are very aggressive and annoying. They need to be deported. They are ruining an otherwise really cool area. 10 years ago it was a great area to hang out. Now most locals avoid it.

-If you are flying out of HK Take the free Airport express to the Kowloon MTR station. Most of the hotels offer this shuttle and it only costs $90 HK per person. They check your luggage right at the station. You arrive at the Airport with only your carry on. It’s awesome and the only way to do it. (Thanks for the recommendations Jimmy!)

-Pick up some local movies on DVD. Super cheap, all shot in HK with sweet cheesy story lines, super addictive, English subtitles included. Just ask the store guys to recommend some.

-Don’t fret any language barrier. Hong Kongites are fluent in English and overall very helpful.

-Bring a light sweater or long sleeve shirt in to the restaurants with you. The AC is really cold and if you are not used to it, you can get sick easily. For a non-local the climate can be hard to take, especially in the spring and summer.

-Don’t bring any jewelry so you can purchase some in HK. The prices are great and the products fantastic. Used Rolexes for under $1000 CDN. However don’t try and do this without a local that knows what they are doing.

-Don’t go to the cable car unless it is a very clear day, you will be wasting your time and money.

-Pack lightly, it is a shopping Mecca. Don’t shop in Tsim Sai Tsui and department stores (unless you are rich or enjoy getting ripped off). If you go to the local boutiques you can find some real bargains.

-Sleep in, stay up late. Nothing opens until 11:00am (except a few restaurants), even on weekdays.

If I think of anymore I will add them as I go. I know I have more but am drawing a blank.

April 21, 2009
“Hai”

Caught a 3:30pm plane to Tokyo. Great flight, once again Business Class all the way I didn’t even want to get off the plane. Found myself watching the clock and counting down the minutes going “man I have to get off in so and so minutes” LOL. Pilot was so good I didn’t even feel the landing. A perfect 10. I always give the pilot a landing score, habit of mine.

Rizutto gave me the confidence to take the Narita Express, glad I did. He also was bang on about the efficiency of the Tokyo airport. I was the first one off the plane and the luggage was waiting for me when I got to the baggage claim. Let me say that again as I don’t know if I have ever said or will say it again “I was the first one off the plane and the luggage was waiting for me when I got to the baggage claim”. I flew in at 8:15pm and was on the 8:44pm train!!! Unreal, customs, baggage, train ticket purchases, boarding the train in 29 minutes WOW!

Narita Express very simple to find and signage all in English, all railway staff super helpful. Train was very clean and comfortable, the station was very organized and lots of good clear English signage. Its pretty late so I will continue this tomorrow but first impressions of Tokyo:
Clean, Organized, Safe, Great Climate, Clean, Clean, Clean, Exciting, Expensive.

Until tomorrow Fodorites…

QWPC

On Chinese DVD's...Uncle Wil came back with 'Red Cliff', Parts I and II. Amazing cinemaphotography, and I love how they mix history and legend. Hope you find time to see these. Someday soon, I am sure the Western world will see this, -better than "Crouching Tiger..."

jayc

April 22, 2009
“McFly, I think we have gone back to the future”

If China is third world and Canada is first world, this is the future world. It is crazy over here. This is going to be a long post.

We arrived last night by Narita Express train. It was very easy to find. From the moment you claim your luggage, the English signage directing you to the Narita Express is flawless. If you miss it, you deserve to get lost. I think the tickets were about $6000 Yen for two people. After a 80-minute ride we arrived in Shinjuku station. My wife had her first Japan public toilet experience and her exact words were, “well their aim is better than the Chinese” LOL, very clean.

The signage in Shinjuku Station and Shinjuku period is flawless, all in English, detailed maps every ten steps and people are helpful. I was a bit sketched out about finding my hotel at night, but it would have been easy to find. Had I just walked in the general direction of it I would have ran in to it. It was pouring with rain so we decided to cab. From the station to my hotel $800 Yen, not cheap for a 2-minute cab ride but the guy had GPS (a more high tech one than I have ever seen)in his cab, no chance of getting lost, worth every penny. I would have gladly paid 5 times the amount in some parts of China if those guys had GPS. Half the time I didn’t even know if the guy knew where he was going, they are not the friendliest bunch Chinese cabbies. I guess you get what you pay for.

We arrived at Toyoko Inn and check-in was a breeze, staff very efficient. We expected the room to be a closet but were pleasantly surprised. It was actually about the same size as The Kowloon but laid out way better and it is very well planned out. The Japanese have truly mastered maximizing small space.

The room is about 12 by 10 feet but I swear it seems bigger. The bathroom is small but very smart, like being in a nice trailer bathroom, but it is very cool complete with Bidet.

Side Note: This is my first experience with a bidet. My conclusion, toilet paper is for animals. Way more hygienic, way more clean feeling, I have already contacted my plumber to install one in every toilet in my house and have already had 10 butt baths. Fantastic. No more ripe bum for this cowboy. They even have them in public toilets!

What’s really cool about the bathroom is that there is a very short, but very deep tub. Not good for me as I am quite tall but my wife is loving it, her first bath since arriving to Asia, other bathtubs were too dirty. Also there is a drain in the floor so when it gets cleaned all they do is spray the whole room down. Efficient and sanitary. Very impressive, very ingenious.

The bed is a hard, good size double. No closet but a good hanging apparatus, enough for all of your clothes. Good size desk, with fridge, safe, hot water pot, free hyper speed Internet, plenty of space under the bed for all of your luggage, sitting area with 2 chairs and even a collapsible dinner table. Best of all windows that open that allow FRESH air in to your room minus the bugs Yeh Tah!!!

I could have stayed here happily for my whole Asia trip, carpets immaculate, not one stain on the walls. I feel very comfortable here. I am compulsive when it comes to cleanliness. I booked this hotel through www.toyoko-inn.com. The only catch is you can only book three months in advance and it books up pretty quick so if you are coming here make sure you take note and get in. For $125 CDN a night in Tokyo, this is perfect.

There are free CPUs in the lobby for guests to use and a eating area, coin operated laundry and even a smoking area with a hyper fan that you blow your smoke in to.

Observation: Japan is very anti-smoking. They do not even allow people to smoke on the street! They have patrol that come along and make people butt their smokes out if they light up. Just great! Smokers can only smoke in their homes or designated areas in the city. They contradict this by putting cigarettes in vending machines everywhere though. But then again maybe not, maybe its reverse psychology. As a fresh non-smoker, this is the place to be baby. They are basically making it as unpleasant for smokers as possible and more importantly protecting the majority from this poison, as it should be.
Even when I was a smoker I always hated three things about us smokers: 1) We ALL at some point have flicked our nasty butts on the ground 2) We all need smoke breaks at work. If a non-smoker ran outside for a 5 minute fresh air break (something that actually would be healthy and might do some good) would it be allowed? No way. 3) We all make others smoke with us because whether we like it or not, all of our loved ones have tasted our second hand crap before.

There are three vending machines in the lobby that have a huge assortment of beverages: beer, tea, HOT Café au Laits. That’s right, hot beverages in the can in vending machines, outstanding.

After a check in and a quick bidet, we went out for our first meal. Of course it had to be sushi. About 20 pace’s out of our hotel and we walked in to a sushi restaurant, auto sliding doors of course.

Side Note: This place is like Bizarro China. Everything China does Japan does the opposite. For instance: China is pro smoking the Japanese are anti. Chinese stores have no doors, the Japanese have automatic sliding ones. Chinese cabbies never seem to have a clue where they are going (or at least they act that way), Japanese have GPS. China is cheap, Japan is expensive. China is dirty, Japan is clean. China’s air is terrible (probably due to lack of regulation), Japan’s is great (probably due to their strict lair laws). Chinese like to pee on the ground even when there is a toilet, Japanese keep it in the bowl and even spray you down after. I could go on forever.
Ok a few more: In China you have to cook all your meat and seafood thoroughly, In Japan you eat it raw. In China the solicitors are abrasive pricks, In Japan they are attractive, kowtowing students. Chinese are loud; Japanese are quiet.
I am so confused right now. Yesterday up was up and down was down, now; up is down and down is up. I love China and my fellow Chinese people but damn, these Japanese guys seem to really have it right.

We were greeted with 4 big guys yelling good evening I think. Love it. We ordered by pointing and away we went. 3 types of Tuna Nigiri, Uni Nigiri, Hamachi Nigiri, Prawn Nigiri, Tamgo Nigiri, Toro Nigiri and Salmon Nigiri. Tons of ginger and miso soup to wash it all down. I can’t say it was the best sushi I have ever had but I have had lots of great sushi (if you are ever in Victoria, BC Ebizo has the best Chop Chop Scallop roll and amazing Tuna), but I will say that the fish was really fresh, not a hint of fishiness, and melt in your mouth. I don’t usually like Uni (sea Urchin) but for some reason it was so good last night I ate four of them!

I had to stop before I was full, too expensive. Our bill was $6000 Yen. If I had my way I would just go Sashimi style and lose the rice but without filler my bill would be triple. I am on the hunt for a cheaper joint tonight, stay tuned.

After our dinner we walked it off by walking around the red light district. What a scene, short skirts just everywhere. Fat, thin, hot, not, men and women in skirts. It was a great scene. We plan on hitting one of the bars tonight, wife’s idea believe it or not. Japanese women are quite attractive; even have Kirsten’s approval. Very cute, very cartoonish from their style to their eyes. Just bar after bar with posters of women that are just waiting to be your friend inside these clubs for just $3000 Yen an hour! What a bargain LOL. They also have ones with Men as well. I wonder if these are for the girls or the guys? We will find out tonight and report back.

Woke up to a gorgeous spring day. Perfect blue sky, 20 degrees with a breeze, couldn’t have ordered weather this good. Breaky was Soba noodles with pork, fantastic. I could have noodles or congee for breakfast every day. Don’t miss western breakfast at all.

I can’t help myself here are a few more opposites: Chinese beer is warm, Japanese beer is ice cold. Chinese people push you aside to get in elevator’s, Japanese people hold the door open for you and even push your floor button.

We explored our way around Shinjuku for a bit and then went to the JR Stations travel agency to book our Ryokan in Hakone and Shinkansen to Kyoto. Altogether cost $65000 Yen for trains to Hakone and Kyoto and a Ryokan for one night that includes dinner and breakfast. We booked a middle of the road one. Our travel agent was very nice and we would use this service again. From our research at home, the Ryokan and train cost roughly the same. Best of all Hakuna Matata.

After we booked our train we made our way to the Tokyo Tourist Info Center, what a great call. Seiko (like the watch she said) was so helpful. She helped us obtain tickets to Tokyo Stadium for a baseball game tomorrow (even got us a deal $1000 Yen), gave us directions to all the places we wanted to go and even recommended some of her favorite local restaurants to us. She made us feel very welcome and was really nice. I am definitely going to the one in Kyoto as well.

Lunch was at one of Seiko’s fave restaurants, a local joint, Ootoya for some Chicken Karage and Pork Loin with Miso, pretty good. We hit up a batting cage on the way home, I think I may have tipped one of the 90, 120KM pitches coming my way (ankle still pretty sore LOL) and headed home. On our way to Tokyo Times Square now for dinner and drinks, then off to the RED LIGHT DISTRICT HaI YaH!

DonTopaz

You hit it exactly right, jayc!! China and Japan are mirror opposites -- perfect description.

Some of my favorite sushi experiences are at conveyor-belt sushi restaurants -- called kaiten-zushi -- where the plates of sushi come around to you and you pick one off when you see one you like. Or, if you don't see what you want, you just ask the sushi chef to make one for you. There are good ones all over the city; my favorite is in Akihabara, in the 8th floor of the Akiba shopping center (the world's most incredible electronics store).

samuell

China's forbidden city is a Zoo, Japanese Imperial Palace is serene.

We found Japan no more expensive than most European cities, we ate in small noodle house and food market, went around on buses and metro. Our stay at Toyoko Inn in Kyoto was 6500 Yen.

Chinese beer and coffee are served at the same temperature - warm, what's up with that?

rkkwan

If you think Japan and China is opposite now, think what it was like in 1985. I visited both within the same summer as a teenager. It was heaven vs hell.

hawaiiantraveler

You are going to love the baseball game!

I think you have touched on some of the main reasons I keep returning to Japan year after year.

Check out the west side of Shinjuku and particularly the area beyond the Post Office just behind the Keio Plaza hotel. There are a myriad of electronic shops, restaurants, ramen stands(my favorite is the 295 on the second floor), etc. Just an neat place to visit, shop and eat and less of the red light feeling you get in the Kabuki-cho area around your hotel.

Can't wait for your impressions of Hakone and Kyoto

Aloha!

hawaiiantraveler

And I did install a Toto Washlet toilet after our second Japan trip. They are available in Canada and the US...... just google the name above.

samuell

Bob, you are giving your age away, your visit to Asia as a teen in 85 would make you 39ish today......

HT, I will get on with the Toto Washlet toilet...........
tks.

rkkwan

samuell - You are confusing me, rkkwan, with Bob (rhkkmk). I am a lot younger than Bob, and not quite 39 yet.

samuell

Ah, I have you two mixed up again, so sorry!!
at 79, one can easily be confused.

jayc

Hawaiian Traveller: thanks for your replies and advice. We are familiar with the Keio and will check it out today for sure.

Rizzuto: Will have some conveyer belt sushi for sure. I am worried it won't be as fresh???

rkkwan: I was going to use the Heaven n Hell comparison, but didn't have the nerve LOL. I can only imagine 1985 in the summer, WOW.

DonTopaz

Kaiten-zushi will be super-fresh -- not to worry. It will lack the presentation of sushi served in a fine sushi restaurant; but it will also cost you 150-200 yen for a 2-piece plate as opposed to 600-1000 yen (or more) in a fancy place.

There are some very inexpensive, 100-yen places. I have heard some non-great things about those places and have avoided them.

There's even a decent conveyor-belt sushi place in Shinagawa station!

QWPC

Can't wait to read about your Baseball Game experience. Uncle Wil attended an NFL Football exhibition once in TYO, and he was amazed at the fans and how they cheered. He was also impressed with the girls who sold the drinks and snacks, racing up and down the bleachers, and they were oh so polite and efficient. Wonder if it is still that way.

jayc

April 23, 2009 (Part I)
“Tsukiji Central Wholesale Fish Market”

First off let me say that I have been dreaming of this moment since the day I booked my ticket to Japan. For a professional glutton like me, going to Tsukiji Fish Market is like playing in the Masters at Augusta for Tiger Woods. I have been training for a long time and have the potbelly to prove it.

After a short ride on the Oeda line (subway) with a transfer within the line, 8 stops altogether I believe, we arrived. The wholesale market is just outside of the exit. I was expecting an overwhelming fish smell but received none, a sign from the fish gods that this had to be very fresh fish. I had goose bumps, the same kind I had at the Great Wall and the Li River Light show. Except this wonder of the world was edible, as well as a spectacle!

We ran to the first Sashimi restaurant with a good size line-up. I wasn’t here for a haircut, straight in no kissing! It’s interesting there are tons of restaurants all over the market, but on this particular strip two of them were packed, the rest empty. I knew what to do immediately.

Helpful Hint: When eating fresh seafood, especially sashimi, always pick a restaurant that has a line-up or is extremely busy. This tells you two things: 1) the seafood is flying out the door guaranteeing freshness. 2) People will only wait for things worth waiting for. Unless it is a dead time of day, a quiet restaurant lacks the turnover to have the freshest seafood. Don’t forget, restaurants are here to make money, cost is king, if the restaurant is slow chances are the seafood is frozen or been sitting there for a few days and god knows how long the seafood sat with the supplier before arriving at the restaurant. Pick up the book Kitchen Confidential, it has a great chapter about this and is fantastic book in general.

We jumped in the longest line immediately. There were only 12 seats inside this particular Sashimi bar and there were about 6 people in front of us, a ½ hour until tee off. Beside the line up there is a huge poster board with about 30 different choices of Sashimi rice bowls. Every fish imaginable, served in different combinations. I went with the Ahi Tuna, Albacore Tuna, Toro (Tuna Belly) rice bowl with an extra side of Uni (I am obsessed with the Uni over here, I used to hate it now I love it). Kirsten went with the Ahi Tuna, Salmon and Toro. The locals around me seemed to opt for a combo that had Prawns (shell and head on), Tuna, Salmon and Fish Roe. The Fish Roe here are extremely large, I will have to get a side of these on my next trip. My senses were so overwhelmed I was hasty in my decision at the board but this was my first time to the big show, next time I will have a better performance at the line-up.

A girl comes down the line-up and takes your order before you are seated, that way the moment you get a seat you are eating within minutes. My kind of restaurant: the kind that serves customers efficiently and maximizes profit. While in line I was observing the others really enjoying their meal. Savoring each bite as if it were their last. The anticipation was rising as my mouth was beginning to water just watching the Sashimi action inside. Secretly, I was cheering each bite, as every bite the customers inside took, meant I was that much closer to bites of my own. Every time another piece was taken down, I was giving it a small fist pump, like when Tiger makes a tap in birdie on a par five.

Then it happened, 6 people all got up in one shot, a miracle and we were summoned by Sashimi Nazi (I have nicknamed him Sashimi Nazi after the Soup Nazi in Seinfeld as there seemed to be many rules at this place: no sharing, no photography, one order only per person, we all had our head down and moved very stiffly as the line moved scared to offend him for fear of not getting to taste his Sashimi) behind the counter to be seated. I gave it another Tiger fist pump, a determined double pump, the big par saving variety (downhill right to left 15 footer), as I was seated. Right away we were served Matcha Green tea (really good stuff), the best Miso soup I have ever had and some pickled turnips??? I think (they were bright yellow and very appetizing).

Then it seemed to descend from the heavens, a gorgeous bowl of deep blood purple red (The Ahi), deep pink (Albacore) and a marbled white and dark pink (Toro) with a beautiful plate of red-orange (Uni). I asked the Sashimi Nazi for some Wasabi, scared that I may offend him in case it was not the norm to have Wasabi with his Tuna as it is in Canada, but he gave a stern smile and kindly obliged. Once I had my sauce together it was time.

I reached for the Ahi and I knew my wife was saying something to me but I couldn’t hear her. I had blocked her out and all other distractions around me. I now know what Tiger felt like at the last US Open, when he needed that 15 footer to force a playoff with Rocco, focused, Zen, Chi was balanced. Upon the first bite I think I cried. I definitely got teary. It was the most beautiful piece of Tuna, or any fish for that matter, I have ever tasted.

I followed it up with a Toro, then an Albacore and then it was Uni time: A bite of Uni, a bite of rice, a bite of Uni, a bite of rice. I think it moved, no I know it moved LOL. Hands down the best meal I have had since being in Asia and definitely in my top 5 for all time meals. I thought things could not get any better and then it happened, my wife said the magic words “I can’t finish, can you eat mine for me?” I went crazy Tiger Fist pump, like the one he gave at Augusta when he chipped in, you know the one where his ball sat on the edge of cup and the whole world held there breath in unison, yup, that fist pump.

After the meal it was time to pay Sashimi Nazi. In all my excitement I had forgotten to look at the prices. Deep down I was thinking, “well, looks like you may have just spent your hotel money for the rest of your Japan trip”, but no, only $4800 Yen. An unforgettable meal at a reasonable price. We must have eaten 25-30 oz of high quality, fresh fish, not to mention 6-8 oz of Uni, a Japanese delicacy. I definitely cried right then and there. This experience was not only good to my stomach, but my wallet as well.

After our meal we wandered around the fish market for a while. I could have wandered around all day. There were tempura stands, fruit stands, all types of fish and seafood on display (live and fresh), Tuna stands that had pieces of Tuna in cases, all different prices and species. It was a Tuna rainbow! I plan to go back in a few days, take my time picking the perfect piece, have the guy cut it up for me, then I am going to pull out my sauce that I will bring already prepared the night previous, obviously I will taste it to make sure the mix is perfect, drizzle it on the Tuna, then sit at the Tuna auction and eat my Tuna while I watch. There were also assorted dried fruits, Tamago (Egg) stands (all varieties and flavors) and even a guy preparing BBQ Unagi (Eel) and then it putting on a stick, Unagisicles! Of course I had one.

I sampled it all and the best part: most of the sampling was free! I ate scallops, octopus (small and large), dried fruit, fresh fruit, tempura, more fish and I ate it all. It was a glorious way to start the day. It was only 11am when we finished.

April 23, 2009
“Going, Going, Gone!”

After our feast, we went to check out a Japanese Garden near the Fish Market. I forget the name but there are signs everywhere. Hard to miss, that’s how we found it. It was so serene and beautiful. Japanese trees and flowers are so fascinating. Their shapes and look make them appear fake. I wonder if they have always been that way or if the Japanese have genetically engineered them to grow like that. Judging by the size of their fruit (apples are the size of large grapefruits, Kiwis look like small watermelons) I would guess yes. The gardens in Beijing and Xian were beautiful as well but when I think parks, I think of fresh air, which this park had, tons of it. It was surrounded by all the beautiful Japanese high-rises and was a really beautiful contrast.

Observation: The architecture in Japan is very appealing to the eye. Not just that but they are very clean. Chinese buildings are mostly stained and quite dirty from the outside. Also at times architecture and signage in China doesn’t seem to follow a particular city plan. Especially the signage in HK. It is all over the place and too much of it overhanging in the middle of the streets really losing its effect and purpose. Nothing stands out and it just looks like a confused mess. I guess that is a result of 7 million people on one tiny Island. Japan signage and architecture is very well planned and each piece has its place. Very clean looking, very slick.

After the park we went to check out Tokyo Tower. It was about 10 minutes from the fish market. Very close. Tokyo Tower is 333 meters high. The Eiffel tower only 320 meters high. Take that France! You have two choices, 150M observation deck for $2000 YEN per person and then you can take it to the top for an extra $700 YEN per person to 250M. The view is incredible and the photos we took were amazing but for the price I am not sure if it’s worth it. We joked that we should have just sent one person to take pics for half price. It was really cool but to be honest somewhat forgettable. The view was great but everything is so far away make sure you bring some bino’s if you go.

Guess What: Krispy Creme has come to Japan! They were packed, lined up around the block. Hilarious. You watch, Krispy Creme in Tokyo is going to be singlehandedly responsible for adding 10% growth on the average weight in Tokyo in a few short years LOL.

After Tokyo Tower we went for some Soba Noodles. Its really cool how you order in most of the cheap noodle houses. You slide your cash in to a machine, press your selection, a ticket spits out then you walk inside and hand it to an employee. 2 minutes later, poof, lunch is served! I love Japan. Very few line-ups (except at Krispy Crème LOL), very efficient.

We set out for some shopping after lunch. Clothing in Japan is futuristic, ahead of its time, anything goes. Everyone is very edgy in their fashion statements. Two problems: 1) I love the fashion here but I don’t think I can afford it nor am I cool enough to pull it off 2) Nothing fits! Props to Japanese style. Very fresh, very clean.

What’s really nice is that Tokyo also has many solicitors on their streets but the solicitors do it in a very nice way. Very gentle, very soft and they kowtow when trying to hand you something and when you decline, THEY STOP. Tsim Tsai Shui should take some lessons. The solicitors here are putting on a clinic.

We had plans to check out the ball game at 7pm. We had lots of help from the Tokyo Tourist Information (Seiko) on this one. Apparently Japan has two professional baseball leagues, Pacific League and Central League. Central league being more popular in Tokyo, as the Tokyo Giants belong to the Central League. There are interleague games as well. The Giants were not playing while we were in Tokyo, so we opted for a Pacific league game. Seiko said it was a good call because the skill level is the same and we had no allegiance to a team anyways.

Tickets range from $1000 YEN (our tickets) - $70000 YEN (Private Box) and because we went to a quieter game we took advantage of discount tickets. Basically you show up right after the game has started and get tickets for $1000 YEN and take whatever seats are left. Once we checked in we noticed people were all bringing in their own food, wish we knew. Can’t do that back home. We went and grabbed snacks/beer (what’s a ball game without snacks and beer). Cold Kirin beer, hot dogs, hamburgers, chicken wings and chicken nuggets were on our menu, $2000 YEN, pretty expensive but food/beer is always expensive at pro stadiums. You could also get noodle bowls or rice bowls if you wanted along with popcorn, chips, candy and more.

After we got seated (right by first base about middle of the road, great seats!) we noticed they had split the fans in to different sections. We were in the Hikkaido Fighters section and we were playing the Fukuoka Hawks. It seemed each team had a dedicated section behind left field or right field that had an organized cheering squad complete with band. It was awesome. The fans were loud, organized and dedicated. They had different songs for different situations and every player had his own song when up to bat. Kirsten was watching the cheering squad more than the game. It was really funny how in to it they were. Atmosphere was fantastic. The only thing lacking in my opinion was heckling. The Japanese fans cheer for their team, but no one shouts obscenities at the Umps for bad calls or boos the other team. I guess its not in their culture LOL.

I had just finished my first beer and was about to leave my seat when this Japanese cutie in short, shorts came running up the aisle with a keg strapped to her back (I have yet to see a sexier accessory than a strap on keg, all the single ladies should be paying attention). What timing! Ordered up another Kirin $750 YEN ouch, needless to say I started sipping my beer like a fine scotch. It was ice cold though I must say. Any other pro sports game I have been to, their system of beer serving is trays with full beers or plastic bottles. Tough to serve, usually piss warm. These girls were flying around with the ice-cold keg backpacks. They looked like Japanimation Beer Serving Superheroes. Awesome! Anything we can do the Japanese do it better, I swear.

Back to the game, here is the summary:
We arrived at the top of the 5th inning we were up by 1. The Hawks scored 2 and we were down by 1. Top of the 6th the Hawks jacked one to go up 2. We rallied at the bottom of the 8th to tie the game. Top of the ninth we bring in our closer and he gets us in to winning position, 3 up, 3 down. Top of our line-up, bottom of the ninth. First guy pops out. Then a ground out. Two outs. Then our clean-up (4th) comes up and hits a bomb, we all stand up and yell at the ball…going, going, GONE!!!!!! WALK OFF HOMERUN!!!! FIGHTERS WIN!!! It was pandemonium in our section. Even Kirsten and I were hugging like we were born Hakkaido fans. Hakkaido Fighters for life!

After the game we headed back to our hotel as we had some laundry to do and were pretty bagged. When I went down to pick up my laundry from the dryer (1:00am) I got my answer regarding male hosts. They service women. I know this because I saw one of the studs (you know when you see them because they all have Dragon Ball Z hairdo’s and shiny suits on) go in to an elevator with a heavier set female acting very friendly and drunk. It was a pretty funny scene. I have seen many Johns but never a Jill LOL.

April 24, 2009
“all you can eat BABY!”

We caught a 10:00am train out of Shinjuku direct to Hakone. Took about an hour and a half. Very easy route, no hiccups.

Side Note: The Subway and train system in Japan is very well organized and easy to use. Anyone can use this system with confidence. Nothing like Chinese rail. Lots of English signage and when in doubt, most of the employees speak decent English, decent enough to guide you to where you need to be. We have had no issues, not one. Exits are marked very clearly. Local travelers are very conscious of personal space and it is not intimidating at all. It’s a fantastic way to travel. Safe, efficient, comfortable and clean.

After we arrived in Hakone our Ryokan sent someone to pick us up. He spoke excellent English, flawless. He offered to just take our bags back for us so we could just explore Hakone. We gladly accepted. He also suggested we buy the two day “Hakone Free Pass” as it was the best way to explore. Basically this pass gives you access to all the buses, ferries, trains and cable cars that run through Hakone. It was high-priced, $4000 YEN per person but worth it if you want to see the whole area which we did.

We had breakfast in the little town but there are restaurants all throughout your travels so no need. Breakfast was nothing to write about.

We took the bus to Lake Ashi first. It was a 40 minute scenic ride through the mountains. The roads are very narrow and I am amazed how well the cars silently communicate with each other to avoid head on collisions. Mirrors at all of the sharp corners help as well. The ride was nice. It reminded me of home, green, lush and in the mountains. We were surprised at the weather, it was quite chilly, but a wonderful change to the heat and humidity we had in China. Very similar climate to where we are from.

We arrived at Lake Ashi where we were going to take a ferry to a cable car. We had 25 minutes till the ferry so walked around the small town on the side of the lake. There were locals fishing on the coast, pedal boats on the lake and a handful of restaurants. The lake was very nice, scenery reminded us of home, which I enjoyed. By the end of the HK leg I was really feeling homesick. I was tired of the pollution, humidity, filth and AC in China. I can only take so much, after all I am Canadian. But once I arrived in Hakone it really charged me back up, the fresh crisp air, the chill of the Mountain breeze, the views of the lakes and mountains. I swear I was in Cowichan Lake, BC. I could go on forever now.

The boat that we took resembled a pirate ship. Pretty interesting. Kids were loving it. After a very pleasant, calm 30 minute sail we arrived at a set of cable cars that were going to carry us up to a live Volcano. Apparently on this tour of Hakone there are 4 really good viewing points of Mt. Fuji, one on the ferry, and the rest on the cable cars. Unfortunately it was too cloudy to see Fuji this day. Our first run of bad luck. We were disappointed but it was hard to care too much considering the natural beauty of the setting we were in.

The ferry took us to our first cable car. The view was great. Two more cable cars and we arrived at the Volcano. Very neat. We hiked up the summit, took lots of pics, smelled the sulphur, touched the natural hot springs with our hands, it wasn’t as impressive as Kilauea (no lava flow) but it was a nice bonus on our journey. They were selling hard boiled sulphur eggs, 5 for $500 YEN but I passed. I figured how different could a hard boiled egg taste. I opted for a Fuji apple instead $100 YEN. The guy asked where I was from and when I said Canada he presented me with an origami crane. They seem to really like Canada. In fact many of the people we have encountered have done a home stay program in Canada at some point. Seiko lived in Richmond, BC for 6 months.

After the volcano we took 2 cable cars and a train back to our point of origin. The whole tour took about 4 hours. I am sure it would have been that much more impressive if Mt. Fuji was visible but we really enjoyed it, worth the money. We caught a cab to our Ryokan $1000 YEN and checked in. We were pretty anxious, had done a lot of reading but didn’t know what to expect. We didn’t book the cheapest one and we didn’t book the most expensive. It was middle of the road but upon arriving and even when they picked up our luggage the service was 5 Diamond, first class.

Upon check-in they ask you what time you would like dinner, we chose 7pm, what time you want breakfast and then break down some Ryokan procedures for you:
1) Upon entering your room you must remove all shoe and slippers and leave them outside. The Tatami mats are not to be walked on with shoes or slippers.
No problem here, I hate it when people wear shoes in my house, I think it is gross. My wife always does it.
2) They invite you to change in to an informal kimono to wear for the duration of your stay including wandering the grounds and at dinner.
Basically they are saying change in to Pajamas and stay in them, Yeh Tah!
3) They give you bathing instructions. Men and women are separate. You must rinse yourself off before getting in, no bathing suits permitted. Then after your bath there is washing station.
Pretty simple, no different than a public pool at home except you go in the buff, check.

That’s about it for rules. The bath was great Hot water in a mountain surrounding with a waterfall in the background. Very relaxing, very enjoyable. Would have been more enjoyable with my wife but I guess a unisex naked bathhouse would be called something else LOL.

After our baths we were starving. It was only 5:45pm. We asked to get in earlier, no problem. We changed to 6:00pm.

Side Note: I have yet to have someone in a hotel say no to me in Japan. They bend over backwards for you here. I am sure if they can’t do something for you they will politely deny you, but if it is in their power to do something they do it. A stark contrast to Mexico where it seems they have stupid rules in places on everything from how many towels you can have to what time you can eat, just so they can piss you off. I must have heard “No Senor” a million times while I was there for my wedding! In fact every Japanese person we have encountered have been over the top accommodating. When you ask someone for directions on the street, they will GPS their phone for you or this afternoon we had a gentleman even walk us to our hotel. Unbelievable.

I was really worried because I was starving and each time I have read about a Ryokan it seemed like this really traditional meal and experience. I usually associate traditional with small portioning and pretentious food. Not at this place.

Upon arriving we immediately saw a buffet! Thank god, I was ravenous. Our table was set up with an array of traditional Japanese appy’s. Sashimi, a hot pot filled with fresh seafood, many pieces of sushi looking things from clams to egg (real food art) and that was just the appy’s. Then our server came by and informed us that we could order steak (Filet Mignon by the way), fish (it was Skate, I love Skate) and all sorts of Tempura (pumpkin, prawns, eel, different types of fish, yam, acorn squash and more). I immediately ordered one of everything. What a feast. Fantastic. Dinner was a perfect presentation of East meets West, both in atmosphere and flavor. Right up my alley. The experience of a Ryokan but informal enough for a peasant-Canadian like me to enjoy it.

The buffet had Japanese rice, Miso soup (of course, I am starting to love Miso soup, can’t get enough of it, everyone’s recipes is different and they are all good), fresh fruit, cakes, salad and more. After dinner I was busting but, very relaxed, very happy.

When we arrived back at the room they had transformed our living room in to a bedroom. That is idea of the traditional Ryokan. Your living room, dining room and bedroom are all the same place. I guess the Japanese started maximizing space right from the beginning. The bathroom was a great size and the toilet had a heated seat and a bidet! I must have taken 30 ass bathes. The mattresses were on the ground but comfortable and the comforter was great. I slept like a baby. They have a waterfall right outside our window and nothing puts me to sleep like the sound of a waterfall. Especially after all that food.

Breakfast was buffet. Decent, nothing special but well presented and did the trick. We went for one more bath (“another bath for Millosh)and checked out. It cost about $30000 YEN. We loved it, would recommend it and do it again for sure. Dinner alone was worth $10000 YEN. Experience priceless. I am sure you could stay at a more traditional one, but this was perfect for us. The service was first class the whole way. From pick-up to drop-off. I would definitely recommend this place to everyone:

Hotel Okuyumoto
www.okuyumoto.co.jp
E-mail: [email protected]
0460-85-6271

DonTopaz

Hey jayc,

Thanks for taking me back to the same route through Hakone that I took last week -- gotta love them pirate ships. You forgot to mention the stink of the sulfur as you pass over it in the ropeway cars.

Sounds like Tokyo Dome beers are more expensive than Yokohama beer: just 500¥ at Yokohama Stadium, but served by the same hot young ladies. Did you notice how they carried wads of money between their fingers?

I still dream of the Uni in Tokyo. Its taste, its feel in the mouth ... oh, lord. Now the problem is that I'm fearful of getting anywhere near sushi back here in the States: what a horrible disappointment it's likely to be.

jayc

Nothing like hot ladies with wads of money between their fingers Rizzuto. Had Uni tonight in Kyoto. Not very good at all. I will make sure I have some for you when I get back to Tokyo. Take care.

samuell

we didn't stay in a Ryokan because of their many restriction and cost, will have to next time.

we also love Markets in Japan, we love market anywhere, Japanese and Spanish are the best.

looking forward to Kyoto............