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Belated Mini Trip Report for Taiwan Oct 2023

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Belated Mini Trip Report for Taiwan Oct 2023

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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 04:57 AM
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Belated Mini Trip Report for Taiwan Oct 2023

Now that I'm back here, I thought I'd share some feedback from our October 2023 trip to Taiwan. I posted this in Nick Kembel's FB group where I also did a lot of trip research and planning.

Note that we had spent 5 nights in Taiwan previously in 2017 and therefore skipped Taroko on this trip having spent two nights there on that trip.

GENERAL
Phone data/ number:

For data we used a physical SIM that gave us a local number plus unlimited data (as I post to Instagram a lot). The plan has been to put that SIM into a spare phone we took with us, but the phone didn't accept the SIM so it went into my phone in the end. We wanted the local number to be able to use lineID but were never able to get that damn app to work the entire time we were there! Name:  1f923.png
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Pete also got a data-only ESIM in Pete's phone, he could have shared the data from mine but as we ended up using his for navigation when driving, it was easier to do it this way.

Transfer from airport to Taipei:
Although taking the train into the city is easy, I prebooked via klook a private transfer from airport arrivals directly to our hotel, and the reverse when we left. Very well priced, you choose the car depending on number of passengers and luggage, and for 2 of us it was just above 1k for each of the two transfers.

MRT Travel:
We did load Easycards and use them briefly for MRT in Taipei but for various reasons we used Uber a lot more. We could actually have gotten away without the easycards on this trip but for the few metro trips we took they were useful.

Taxi:
I've never used Uber previously but used it extensively during this trip. I had been suffering some serious long Covid fatigue for several months before this trip and promised myself not to overdo it as that has made me crash backwards a number of times. That together with weather that was far hotter and more humid than expected meant I was often feeling a bit feeble so we leaned on taxis a lot. I didn't let myself feel guilty because they opened up doing more than if I had tried to be "sensible". Two big advantages to using Uber were associating a credit card with it and payment being taken care of automatically, and the fact that it made it so easy to specify pick up and drop off locations. Had no bad experiences at all.

Self driving:
In order to book one way drop off, we had to cook via hertz instead of directly with the local operator chailease, and they also allowed us to book farther in advance. Everything was fine with the rentals but we were disappointed in how much was excluded even when we paid the extra for the most comprehensive insurance available. For the second rental, we declined that extra insurance and got our own from a UK provider specialising in insurance for rental car hire overseas.
Driving was really wonderful, gave us such fabulous views and a lot more freedom to make whatever diversions and stops we wanted. It wasn't remotely stressful for us. We didn't bother having a car in the big cities though.
Navigation was via Google maps and not a problem.

Money:
Cash is still king, especially for eating. Unless you go to kind of higher end restaurants all the time, many places we ate were small joints with an open air kitchen out front and tables either inside or also outdoors. And markets and stalls. These all take cash. Chain restaurants, like the sushi places we went to, and posher places, mostly took card. We had exchanged and taken with us a big chunk of cash so didn't have to worry about getting cash out as we went.

ITINERARY (with comments)
Taipei 4 nights
We stayed in Daan for this first stint and we're pleased with the location.
We had a fabulous yakiniku the first night and a great Chinese meal with crab xlb another night.
Egads the weather was hot! We didn't rush around loads but we loved the city as we did last time. We did enjoy CKS Memorial Hall and Addiction Aquatic.
On one morning we did a fabulous food walking tour with Ivy Chen. That afternoon we met up with a longtime poster on Nick's FB forum who kindly took us to the most kitsch and wonderful place, Fufudingshang, and then we went to dinner with him, his wife and a few colleagues, so we could enjoy the very typically Taiwanese rer chao eating and drinking experience. Wonderful!

We also did a full day private car and driver trip taking in Yehliu, a seafood feast at a fishing harbour, Jifuen, Gold Waterfall, and Keelung night market.
There still so much we haven't done in Taipei!

Jiaoxi 1 night
Could have done with an extra night here. We left Taipei with a rental car in the morning, went to Kavalan Distillery for whisky tasting and buying, then to the Red Lantern in Silks Place for an amazing duck feast, and then to Jiaoxi. As we had a private hot spring tub in our room, we didn't get to the public places and I would have liked to but time was limited.

Chisang 2 nights
On the way down we stopped at the National Center for Traditional Arts, which I loved. A custom built village showcasing traditional arts and crafts in beautiful shops. If you have longer, you can pre-book to do handicraft workshops here too.
The views of the stretch of road down to Hualien were spectacular! The winding road was a little scary to me as passenger but Pete loved driving it!
I had originally booked in Luye but I'm so glad I switched to Chisang at the last moment. We loved loved loved our few hours "cycling" around the rice paddies and Dapo Pond, I put that in " " because we got an electric bike that was more akin to a golf cart!
We did some driving around to see Luye Highlands as well and went to a tea shop and bought some tea.

Kaohsiung 3 nights
We returned the rental car in Taitung and took the train to Kaohsiung. On the first afternoon I had the aftermath of a migraine so we lost the first afternoon in Kaohsiung.
The next day we did a full day private tour with David Liaw that took in Fo Guang Shan Monastery, various key temples in Kaohsiung, Lotus Pond, a great dumpling place for lunch, and Qijin Island. I had to take it easy as I was still feeling fragile and David was very thoughtful finding drop off points where I didn't need to walk much, and often I'd get him to take Pete into the temples and share them and I'd wait somewhere in the shade.
We had some great meals in Kaohsiung including a hot pot place and a few great dishes at the Liouhe Night Market. Warning, I got quite literally hundreds of insect bites over my arms and elbows that evening and they gave me grief for well over a week! I still think it was worth it! Name:  1f923.png
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We were a bit disappointed with Pier 2 btw. But your mileage may vary. It didn't help that I'm so pathetic in the heat!Name:  1f923.png
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Anping, Tainan 1 night
Instead of taking the train etc to Tainan we booked another full day with David to take us to the sights north of Tainan, and he picked us up from the Kaohsiung hotel and dropped us off at the Anping one.
This day was cool including things like the famous salt pans, some more really amazing temples, an oyster farming village for lunch etc.

Tainan central, 2 nights
We spent the day day on our own exploring Anping, I particularly loved the tree house, and the old streets and little stores and several really fabulous coffee shops. Oh and the wet market directly next to our hotel was lovely.
We moved our stuff over via Uber late afternoon.
Loved Tainan, for the markets, more coffee shops, and some delicious food!

Shizhao/ Meishan Township, 1 night
We picked up a rental car in Tainan, drove to Chiayi, mostly skipped sightseeing because it was even hotter than before and I was dying, so we did a bit of drive by sightseeing, had a tasty lunch and I tripped and fell so hard entering a 7-11 I need both knees and the side of my head, broke my glasses and face the two staff quite the shock. Pete bought superglue and was able to fix my glasses (and I did have by spare pare in the suitcase).
Then we headed on out to Shizhao, some stunning driving views along the way, and had a lovely tasting of tea at Lin Yuan. They also gave me a tour of the factory, and I bought a fair bit of tea! Would have bought more if I didn't have to worry about how to get it all home! Name:  1f923.png
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Our accommodation was a fabulous homestay in a small resort of wooden tree houses and chalets built by the current hosts' father. It was fabulous, not least for the proper homecooked dinner and then they taught be good to make aiyu jelly myself for dessert. So much fun! Great breakfast too.

Alishan Forest National Recreation Area, 1 night
Very 1970s hotel, the most disappointing of the trip except it had such a good location, right by the station and visitors centre. We basically took both trains to both destinations but I couldn't walk the paths because my knees were throbbing. Pete did a little walking but we took it easy and really enjoyed the train rides. And the little skybridge by Zhaoping station. And two good meals.

Sun Moon Lake, 2 nights
We didn't do sunrise either from Meishan or Alishan at the forecast was completely clouded up. I looked out at that time both days and yeo, no sun to be seen!
We set off towards SML gosh another beautiful drive. We stopped at a cool suspension bridge, and at the DreamWorks plum place, and then headed up to Puli to cover a bunch of places there. We visited a winery (more of a tourist attraction with a selection of specialists food producers than anything to do with the winery but lots of tastings offered and I did buy some things), the beer brewery in its own hotel, to buy a few bottles to taste that evening, and a delicious beef noodle soup lunch. Oh and a chocolatier and ice cream shop that was fab.
Into Ita Thao and our hotel which we loved! Such a great room and location by the night market. Be warned that night market shuts pretty early! By 7 many places were already closed!!!
The next day we went around the lake, the highlight was definitely Wenwu Temple, the lowlight was Shuishe, which was full of price gauging and aggressive boat tour touts. The other main thing was the cable car which was pleasant though but not a patch for us on the Maokong Gondola in Taipei. We were surprised how many coffee / tourist places along the main ring road around the late were closed, not just for the day but long time shut. I'm glad we went to SML but if you miss it, it wouldn't be a tragedy. Especially if you've seen other scenic lakes of the world.

Taichung, 2 nights
We stopped at Jiji to see the temple that collapsed during the 921 earthquake, very poignant, and at Nantou Winery, also the home of Omar Distillery. The polar opposite of Kavalan, this place reeks of staff who couldn't give a shit whether anyone visits or not. We dropped off our luggage before returning the rental car and since it was next door to Miyahara and we got there at noon, we went to them for lunch. Pricy but good, and of course the fantastical decoration is cool to see. I bought me some pineapple cakes after tasting but we couldn't be arsed to queue for the ice cream!
We didn't do a lot of sightseeing in Taichung as again I was feeling a little under the weather but we had a great meal at the Mo Mo Paradise chain, a lovely yakitori lunch, and a sushi dinner. We did visit the Shen Ji New Village such is a cute little area to explore.

Taipei, 2 nights
This time we stayed in Ximending and I can understand why tourists like staying here. It's nice to be surrounded by quite such a density of restaurant options. That said it's a very young and hip area, and we'd revert back to Daan if we go to Taipei again.
We did some sightseeing in the area, we went shopping at the Guilan Carrefour, and again, we ate well!


If you have questions please do ask and if you want to see the 150+ posts and reels I put up during the trip, see here: https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/kaveyeatstaiwan?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
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Last edited by Kavey; Mar 4th, 2024 at 05:09 AM. Reason: Tweaks
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 05:05 AM
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I'm looking forward to reading it, but I think you forgot something
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 05:06 AM
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Yep, it posted completely blank so I had to copy it over again and redo all the formatting. Should be there now1
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 05:08 AM
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I can't work out how to drop images in without them coming through HUGE!
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Kavey
I can't work out how to drop images in without them coming through HUGE!
I used to downsize the photos before posting. Now I don’t bother because it’s way too much work. Many of us just open up the forums (fora?) on iPads and what not and they show up a normal size. Only on a desktop, they’d be huge. If YOU don’t mind the large photos, I certainly don’t mind!
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 07:05 AM
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Kavey, this is wonderfully helpful and of course I want to revise my plan! I’ve got 17 nights in October and I have already made my plan but yours intrigues me, too. And of course, I was following you elsewhere 😉

Between Japan and Taiwan for the fall and an upcoming trip to Greece, I think my planning brain is in overdrive!
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by progol
I used to downsize the photos before posting. Now I don’t bother because it’s way too much work. Many of us just open up the forums (fora?) on iPads and what not and they show up a normal size. Only on a desktop, they’d be huge. If YOU don’t mind the large photos, I certainly don’t mind!
OK at least it's not just me then!
I'll have a go at resizing if I have time, but if not hopefully people can find them via instagram!
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Old Mar 4th, 2024, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by progol
Kavey, this is wonderfully helpful and of course I want to revise my plan! I’ve got 17 nights in October and I have already made my plan but yours intrigues me, too. And of course, I was following you elsewhere 😉

Between Japan and Taiwan for the fall and an upcoming trip to Greece, I think my planning brain is in overdrive!
Hello Lovely, am always happy to help or to give more feedback on any aspect of our trip! I've been to Japan 3 times and Taiwan twice (but one was a shorty) so ask away!

I still have the tail end of Long Covid fatigue (vastly reduced but not gone) so we decided only UK and short haul (Europe) trips this year.

I'm just at the very very start of planning a Japan trip for 2025 though, and my head is full of that!

Last edited by Kavey; Mar 4th, 2024 at 07:24 AM. Reason: correcting typo
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Old Mar 5th, 2024, 10:49 PM
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ITINERARY (with photos)

Taipei 4 nights


Kanpai Yakiniku Restaurant


Addiction Aquatic


Addiction Aquatic


Addiction Aquatic


CKS Memorial Hall


Taihu Da’an Brewery taproom


Dian Shui Lou XLB Restaurant


Food walking tour with Ivy Chen


Food walking tour with Ivy Chen


Food walking tour with Ivy Chen


Fufudingshan Temple (made of corals and shells)


Fufudingshan Temple (made of corals and shells)


A rer chao meal with a local friend and his wife and colleagues


A rer chao meal with a local friend and his wife and colleagues


A rer chao meal with a local friend and his wife and colleagues


Abandoned futuristic housing estate (I'd seen it online and asked our guide who'd never heard of it to take us there)


Yehliu


Yehliu


Seafood feast at a fishing harbour


Seafood feast at a fishing harbour


Gold Waterfall

(No good pics of Jifuen)


Jiaoxi 1 night


Kavalan Distillery


Red Lantern in Silks Place - amazing duck feast


Red Lantern in Silks Place - amazing duck feast


Red Lantern in Silks Place - amazing duck feast


Red Lantern in Silks Place - amazing duck feast


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Old Mar 5th, 2024, 10:57 PM
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Chisang 2 nights


National Center for Traditional Arts


National Center for Traditional Arts


National Center for Traditional Arts


Drive down to Hualien


Teppanyaki place in Hualien


Teppanyaki place in Hualien


Xinwei Soy Sauce


Hualien Tourism Sugar Factory


View from our room in Chisang


Our electric bike/ buggy in Chisang


Our electric bike/ buggy in Chisang


Chisang (Browns Boulevard)


Fanbao (like bento) from Wu Tao Chishang Lunch Box Cultural History Museum (and fresh pineapple from vendor just outside)


Luye Highlands


Tea shop in Luye


Chisang restaurant


Chisang restaurant

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Old Mar 5th, 2024, 11:13 PM
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Kaohsiung 3 nights


Train from Taitung to Kaohsiung


Fo Guang Shan Monastery


Dumplings on a day tour


Temples of Kaohsiung


Temples of Kaohsiung


Temples of Kaohsiung


Ferry to Qi Jin (Cijin)


Temple in Qi Jin (Cijin)


Artwork called Rainbow Church on Qi Jin (Cijin) Old Street


Artwork called Sea Pearl on Qi Jin (Cijin) Old Street


Some of of street parade/ festival in Kaohsiung


Shantou Chuan Cheng Hotpot Zhongshan Main Restaurant


Liuhe Tourist Night Market


Liuhe Tourist Night Market


Liuhe Tourist Night Market


Liuhe Tourist Night Market


Liuhe Tourist Night Market


Dome of Light glass art installation inside Formosa Boulevard Station


Pier 2


Lunch at ARTCO restaurant in Pier 2 area


Lunch at ARTCO restaurant in Pier 2 area


Lunch at ARTCO restaurant in Pier 2 area


Ding Wang Spicy Hot Pot


Ding Wang Spicy Hot Pot


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Old Mar 5th, 2024, 11:33 PM
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Anping, Tainan 1 night + Tainan central, 2 nights


Qigu Salt Museum


Jingzijiao Salt Fields


Beiman Crystal Church


Tea egg at Jingzijiao Salt Fields


Clams at seafood restaurant in Longshan, in Tainan's Qigu District


Fried oysters at seafood restaurant in Longshan, in Tainan's Qigu District


Temple in Longshan, in Tainan's Qigu District


Luerhmen Mazu Temple


Luerhmen Mazu Temple


Luerhmen Mazu Temple


Sicau Mangrove Green Tunnel


Sicau Mangrove Green Tunnel


Shaved ice and mango / red bean at Lily Fruit in central Tainan


Dinner at A Cai Beef Soup restaurant in Anping, Tainan


Dinner at A Cai Beef Soup restaurant in Anping, Tainan


Local food market in Anping, Tainan


Made a friend in Local food market in Anping, Tainan - he had worked in Europe for over 30 years so was fluent in English


Local food market in Anping, Tainan


Translucent meat-filled buns from the local food market in Anping, Tainan


Translucent meat-filled buns from the local food market in Anping, Tainan


Anping Tree House in Tainan


Anping Tree House in Tainan


Cute coffee shop in Anping, Tainan


Cute coffee shop in Anping, Tainan


Lunch at very casual place hidden behind a hat shop, in Anping, Tainan (this is coffin bread)


Lunch at very casual place hidden behind a hat shop, in Anping, Tainan (this is coffin bread)


Another gorgeous coffee shop in Anping, Tainan


Creme brulee in the gorgeous coffee shop in Anping, Tainan


Tiny izakaya in Tainan


Tiny izakaya in Tainan


Tiny izakaya in Tainan


WE Drink Beer Company


WE Drink Beer Company


Shuixian / Yongle Market (they kind of merge into one huge one)


Shuixian / Yongle Market (they kind of merge into one huge one)


Shuixian / Yongle Market (they kind of merge into one huge one)


Casual place we had breakfast in Yongle Market, 水仙宮三兄弟魚湯店


Casual place we had breakfast in Yongle Market, 水仙宮三兄弟魚湯店

Casual place we had breakfast (including fish belly, omelette and pork rice) in Yongle Market, 水仙宮三兄弟魚湯店


Xiu'an Douhua - tofu and jellied puddings


Xiu'an Douhua


Shennong Street


Shennong Street


Shennong Street


Amazing restaurant a friend recommended, multi course, no menu


Amazing restaurant a friend recommended, multi course, no menu


Amazing restaurant a friend recommended, multi course, no menu


Amazing restaurant a friend recommended, multi course, no menu


Amazing restaurant a friend recommended, multi course, no menu

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Old Mar 5th, 2024, 11:43 PM
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Shizhao/ Meishan Township, 1 night

Chicken Rice place in Chiayi


Chicken Rice place in Chiayi


Sat nav driving to Shizhao


Driving to Shizhao


Stop at Lin Yuan tea factory


Views in Shizhao area


Our treehouse accommodation in Shizhao


Our treehouse accommodation in Shizhao


One of many courses in the home-style dinner in Shizhao


Learning how to make an aiyu jelly dessert


Learning how to make an aiyu jelly dessert


Views in Shizhao region


Grandma's Caozaiguo, in Fenqihu


Grandma's Caozaiguo (glutinous rice cake)


Scultpure in Fenqihu


Fenqihu baked donut

Alishan Forest National Recreation Area, 1 night


Alishan National Scenic Area


Alishan National Scenic Area


Alishan National Scenic Area


Alishan National Scenic Area


Alishan National Scenic Area


Alishan National Scenic Area


Alishan National Scenic Area restaurant 1


Alishan National Scenic Area restaurant 2

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Old Mar 6th, 2024, 12:34 AM
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Sun Moon Lake, 2 nights


En route from Alishan to Sun Moon Lake


En route from Alishan to Sun Moon Lake


Dream Works of the Plums


Lunch in Puli township


Lunch in Puli township


Sun Moon Lake


Wenwu Temple


Wenwu Temple


Ita Thao eating


Ita Thao eating


Ita Thao eating


Ita Thao eating


Ita Thao eating


HOHOCHA Sun Moon Lake Black Tea Factory


HOHOCHA Sun Moon Lake Black Tea Factory


Sun Moon Lake Ropeway


Sun Moon Lake Ropeway


In Sun Moon Lake Ropeway station cafe


In Sun Moon Lake Ropeway station cafe

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Old Mar 6th, 2024, 12:46 AM
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Taichung, 2 nights


Jiji Wuchang Temple Ruins (on way to Taichung)


Jiji Wuchang Temple Ruins


Miyahara, Taichung


Miyahara, Taichung


Part of lunch at Miyahara, Taichung


Mo-Mo-Paradise (hotpot chain)


Mo-Mo-Paradise (hotpot chain)


A Taichung Temple


A Taichung Market

Taipei, 2 nights


Ramen in Ximending Taipei


Visiting a dumpling restaurant with a Taipei blogger


Visiting a dumpling restaurant with a Taipei blogger


Visiting a dumpling restaurant with a Taipei blogger


Visiting a dumpling restaurant with a Taipei blogger


The Red House in Ximending, Taipei


The Red House in Ximending, Taipei


The Red House in Ximending, Taipei


Heritage Bakery, Ximending, Taipei


Heritage Bakery, Ximending, Taipei


Carrefour Supermarket, Taipei


Carrefour Supermarket, Taipei


7-11 Store with Sanrio Merch


Sushiro in Ximending, Taipei


Sushiro in Ximending, Taipei


Sushiro in Ximending, Taipei


Sushiro in Ximending, Taipei



Sushiro in Ximending, Taipei
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Old Mar 6th, 2024, 03:06 AM
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These are fantastic, Kavey! Thank you for posting them!
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Old Mar 6th, 2024, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by progol
These are fantastic, Kavey! Thank you for posting them!
My pleasure! 🥰
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