Bali to Cambodia, Offwego!
Feb 11th, 2009, 04:05 AM
#44
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Haha HT that's a good one. The sidewalks are far too uneven for any "sole-slopping" on the Marlioboro!
Kristina, I'm not in Yogya anymore, just arrived in Penang after eating my way through Singapore. Was disappointed today to find "Spice and Rice" closed after searching long and hard for it. Wanted to try their signature dish; goat brain soup. Maybe it's the Good Lord looking out for me....
Assie style breakfast? I believe I had that at the Manohara.
Michael, I'm not done with Indonesia, just there on a recon mission. When I return I will make a point of going to all the places with the good pig.
Kristina, I'm not in Yogya anymore, just arrived in Penang after eating my way through Singapore. Was disappointed today to find "Spice and Rice" closed after searching long and hard for it. Wanted to try their signature dish; goat brain soup. Maybe it's the Good Lord looking out for me....
Assie style breakfast? I believe I had that at the Manohara.
Michael, I'm not done with Indonesia, just there on a recon mission. When I return I will make a point of going to all the places with the good pig.
Feb 11th, 2009, 05:39 AM
#45
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Lori, my Penang report has lots of recs for hawker stalls. Also, if you like Indian food, we ate at a great place recommended by Kuranosuke (a little hole in the wall - Muslim, so no beer). Let me know if you need ideas or more detail. IMO, Penang has the best hawker food of anywhere I've been.
Feb 11th, 2009, 07:04 AM
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Lori-
Check this out:
http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eating...mee-first.html
I also want to hear more about the $10 cup of coffee. Was that from the beans that are eaten and digested first by some animal?
Check this out:
http://eatingasia.typepad.com/eating...mee-first.html
I also want to hear more about the $10 cup of coffee. Was that from the beans that are eaten and digested first by some animal?
Feb 11th, 2009, 07:32 AM
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Kristina/Lori-
Have you seen this blog from Singapore? www.chubbyhubby.net/
Some seriously yummy food and travel porn.....
Have you seen this blog from Singapore? www.chubbyhubby.net/
Some seriously yummy food and travel porn.....
Feb 11th, 2009, 03:42 PM
#48
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Kathie thanks for the tips on food. I will meander down to the Kheng Pin Cafe when I go to the E&O later today. I also heard there's a good Hawker Center near Cornwalis. In the article Kristina sent it mentions it as well.
$10 coffee: the berries are eaten by civits whose digestive tract changes some of the proteins in the bean, rendering the coffee very smooth, no bitterness at all. Something like only 1,000 pounds of it get to the market each year. At Selfridges they sell it for $100 a cup so I guess I got a good deal. There are, of course several places saying they have it and it's not the real thing; you have to go to a reputable place and there aren't that many.
They say that when the beans are collected in civit latrines in the wild, the coffee is even better, since the civits eat only the ripest of berries. These days, the feeding of berries goes on in farms and they feed them all manner of berries, so the coffee has lost some of it's perfection.
$10 coffee: the berries are eaten by civits whose digestive tract changes some of the proteins in the bean, rendering the coffee very smooth, no bitterness at all. Something like only 1,000 pounds of it get to the market each year. At Selfridges they sell it for $100 a cup so I guess I got a good deal. There are, of course several places saying they have it and it's not the real thing; you have to go to a reputable place and there aren't that many.
They say that when the beans are collected in civit latrines in the wild, the coffee is even better, since the civits eat only the ripest of berries. These days, the feeding of berries goes on in farms and they feed them all manner of berries, so the coffee has lost some of it's perfection.
Feb 11th, 2009, 11:10 PM
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Singapore:
I came to Singapore for three things; to see a friend, experience Thaipusam and eat. Not necessarily in that order.
Stayed at the Albert Court Hotel. Booked using points and it was the nearest hotel to the action in Little India for Thaipusam. Perfectly fine hotel in a good location. Super snooty staff, but I didn't come here to see them.
I got there about midnite and opened my window to find the procession beginning just outside. So loud, there was no way to sleep, so I put my clothes back on and went out to join them. Started flagging about 3 am, went back to the hotel then out again at about 9. Walking through the streets of Singapore with no shoes is no easy task. Thank God it's so clean.
For those who don't know about Thaipusam, you can read about it here:
http://www.worldeventsguide.com/even...Thaipusam.html
I don't know what to say about this exactly. I'm not squeamish by any stretch, but watching these men (and a few women) dance around with all those skewers through them sort of made my butt clench. Especially the guy with about 20 hooks through his back, attached to ropes, pulling a very heavy cart. Then there was the guy with the "bed of nails" sandals.
The procession goes on for several kilometers and there are literally tens of thousands of devotees and their supporters. I can't describe it in words, but I have some pretty descriptive photos. Stand by.
Of course, Singapore is famous for food. I did all the requisites, chili crab, pepper crab, crispy squid, ice kachang, but the be-all end-all was the fish head curry. OMG. My waiter was duly impressed by this white girl slurping down the eyes first.
I shopped in the Arab Quarter, where there is a great store selling some pretty amazing perfumes. I tried to look around Little India, but it was crazy with all the festivities for Thaipusam. Did a little shopping at Mustafa, getting some spice mixes for my rice in Cambodia. Chinatown was also interesting with a stop in to see the relic of the Buddha Tooth.
Singapore is a little sterile for my taste. I could not find the underbelly, though I'm sure there is one, and if I ever found it I would be scared. So, not much adventure, other than observing Thaipusam. But wow, the food makes it worth going for a couple of days. All my clothes now have slurpy stains all over them, an indication of a time well had.
The taxi driver that brought me from the airport to the hotel gave me the low-down on smoking. I had with me some Indonesian cigarettes (about 75 cents a pack). He told me not to be caught smoking them; to smoke them in my room. Indeed I saw several signs up saying that if you are caught smoking cigarettes not stamped SDPC, there is a $500 fine. Who is policing this, seriously do they really have cigarette police? I wouldn't doubt it.
Cigarettes in Singapore cost about $7USD. What. A. Racket. I have about 20 photos of all the signs in Singapore telling you what not to do, where not to smoke, piss, stop, drink, walk, etc. I thought America was bad with all the rules....Singapore wins.
I did like all the trash cans everywhere. They should loan some to Cambodia.
I sent a package from Singapore to Siem Reap, with all the purchases and stained up clothes I did not want to drag along with me on the train. It was easy and cheap.
Took the train from Singapore to Butterworth. 14 hours. Read a book and froze to death in the second class AC compartment. If you should ever find yourself on that train, bring food. I had a loaf of bread and some peanut butter and I sure was happy about that. There was a boy that came to sit by me and show me his new toy car. I fixed him up a foldover and it was the most hilarious thing I've ever seen. Quite sure he'd never had peanut butter before. He much preferred the oreos I also had along. Too bad I still didn't have my M&Ms.
I went to the restaurant car and had a look at the various forms of mashy food they had on offer. I almost ate some fried rice until I saw three cockroaches skittering across it. One look at the toilets kept me on a low fluid regimen. But, I enjoyed the train trip and was happy I had a hoodie and a thick scarf along; I almost snet them in the box to Siem Reap. I can't believe how cold it was.
Arrival at Butterworth was followed by a short trek to the ferry, then on to Penang, then some heavy negotiating with the taxi mafioso at midnite to get a ride to the hotel.
Right now I'm staying on the beach about halfway to Batu Ferringhi. Used points. Took the bus (1.50RM vs 20RM in a taxi) to Georgetown and walked around all day. Honestly, I'm not sure what they did to warrant UNESCO status. I don't find it all that charming. I must be missing something.
Tomorrow I will lay on the beach in the morning then move to the E&O for one night of splendor before departing for Bangkok a day early. I hope they will let me in. I didn't really bring clothes suitable for that place....
The trains are all booked up. Will have to part with some coin to fly. Glad I shipped those things ahead so my bag is lighter. Air Asia has no mercy.
I came to Singapore for three things; to see a friend, experience Thaipusam and eat. Not necessarily in that order.
Stayed at the Albert Court Hotel. Booked using points and it was the nearest hotel to the action in Little India for Thaipusam. Perfectly fine hotel in a good location. Super snooty staff, but I didn't come here to see them.
I got there about midnite and opened my window to find the procession beginning just outside. So loud, there was no way to sleep, so I put my clothes back on and went out to join them. Started flagging about 3 am, went back to the hotel then out again at about 9. Walking through the streets of Singapore with no shoes is no easy task. Thank God it's so clean.
For those who don't know about Thaipusam, you can read about it here:
http://www.worldeventsguide.com/even...Thaipusam.html
I don't know what to say about this exactly. I'm not squeamish by any stretch, but watching these men (and a few women) dance around with all those skewers through them sort of made my butt clench. Especially the guy with about 20 hooks through his back, attached to ropes, pulling a very heavy cart. Then there was the guy with the "bed of nails" sandals.
The procession goes on for several kilometers and there are literally tens of thousands of devotees and their supporters. I can't describe it in words, but I have some pretty descriptive photos. Stand by.
Of course, Singapore is famous for food. I did all the requisites, chili crab, pepper crab, crispy squid, ice kachang, but the be-all end-all was the fish head curry. OMG. My waiter was duly impressed by this white girl slurping down the eyes first.
I shopped in the Arab Quarter, where there is a great store selling some pretty amazing perfumes. I tried to look around Little India, but it was crazy with all the festivities for Thaipusam. Did a little shopping at Mustafa, getting some spice mixes for my rice in Cambodia. Chinatown was also interesting with a stop in to see the relic of the Buddha Tooth.
Singapore is a little sterile for my taste. I could not find the underbelly, though I'm sure there is one, and if I ever found it I would be scared. So, not much adventure, other than observing Thaipusam. But wow, the food makes it worth going for a couple of days. All my clothes now have slurpy stains all over them, an indication of a time well had.
The taxi driver that brought me from the airport to the hotel gave me the low-down on smoking. I had with me some Indonesian cigarettes (about 75 cents a pack). He told me not to be caught smoking them; to smoke them in my room. Indeed I saw several signs up saying that if you are caught smoking cigarettes not stamped SDPC, there is a $500 fine. Who is policing this, seriously do they really have cigarette police? I wouldn't doubt it.
Cigarettes in Singapore cost about $7USD. What. A. Racket. I have about 20 photos of all the signs in Singapore telling you what not to do, where not to smoke, piss, stop, drink, walk, etc. I thought America was bad with all the rules....Singapore wins.
I did like all the trash cans everywhere. They should loan some to Cambodia.
I sent a package from Singapore to Siem Reap, with all the purchases and stained up clothes I did not want to drag along with me on the train. It was easy and cheap.
Took the train from Singapore to Butterworth. 14 hours. Read a book and froze to death in the second class AC compartment. If you should ever find yourself on that train, bring food. I had a loaf of bread and some peanut butter and I sure was happy about that. There was a boy that came to sit by me and show me his new toy car. I fixed him up a foldover and it was the most hilarious thing I've ever seen. Quite sure he'd never had peanut butter before. He much preferred the oreos I also had along. Too bad I still didn't have my M&Ms.
I went to the restaurant car and had a look at the various forms of mashy food they had on offer. I almost ate some fried rice until I saw three cockroaches skittering across it. One look at the toilets kept me on a low fluid regimen. But, I enjoyed the train trip and was happy I had a hoodie and a thick scarf along; I almost snet them in the box to Siem Reap. I can't believe how cold it was.
Arrival at Butterworth was followed by a short trek to the ferry, then on to Penang, then some heavy negotiating with the taxi mafioso at midnite to get a ride to the hotel.
Right now I'm staying on the beach about halfway to Batu Ferringhi. Used points. Took the bus (1.50RM vs 20RM in a taxi) to Georgetown and walked around all day. Honestly, I'm not sure what they did to warrant UNESCO status. I don't find it all that charming. I must be missing something.
Tomorrow I will lay on the beach in the morning then move to the E&O for one night of splendor before departing for Bangkok a day early. I hope they will let me in. I didn't really bring clothes suitable for that place....
The trains are all booked up. Will have to part with some coin to fly. Glad I shipped those things ahead so my bag is lighter. Air Asia has no mercy.
Feb 11th, 2009, 11:17 PM
#51
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By the way Kristina, I found the exact guy selling the squid noodles at the hawker center near Cornwalis. It was all that.
That Cornwalis Fort should be given a miss. What a joke. I saw the sign that said the "Town was FOUNDED by so n'so on so n'so date." Founded? Weren't there already people living here? Shook my head at the part where they said the fort was built by "Indian convicts". Convicted of what I wondered? Being Indians? I got the hell outta there. That stuff chaps my butt. Manifest Destiny. Feh.
A nice Ice Kachang calmed my nerves. No worries.
I'm ensconsed presently at the E&O. (love those points!) What a big fat hypocrite to be all upset about Colonizers then stay here in the epitome of what that means....God bless the poor dude at the door with his pith helmet and long socks.
I'm going to sit in the bathtub for the rest of the afternoon since I won't see another one of those for some months (once I get to SR). Then will go out tonite and see if I can find Kathie's hawker place. The concierge has never heard of it. We'll see.
That Cornwalis Fort should be given a miss. What a joke. I saw the sign that said the "Town was FOUNDED by so n'so on so n'so date." Founded? Weren't there already people living here? Shook my head at the part where they said the fort was built by "Indian convicts". Convicted of what I wondered? Being Indians? I got the hell outta there. That stuff chaps my butt. Manifest Destiny. Feh.
A nice Ice Kachang calmed my nerves. No worries.
I'm ensconsed presently at the E&O. (love those points!) What a big fat hypocrite to be all upset about Colonizers then stay here in the epitome of what that means....God bless the poor dude at the door with his pith helmet and long socks.
I'm going to sit in the bathtub for the rest of the afternoon since I won't see another one of those for some months (once I get to SR). Then will go out tonite and see if I can find Kathie's hawker place. The concierge has never heard of it. We'll see.
Feb 12th, 2009, 05:11 AM
#52
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Well, the E&O is one of the Sarkies brothers properties, I think. They were Armenian, not colonizers. Agree about Cornwallis, but it's a good place to start a walk down through the colonial quarter.
I was in Bali about two weeks ago visiting my coffee roaster there. He has a couple civets in a cage at the plant. He had me try a new coffee he found - not luwak - he won't even tell me where he found it, but it was so smooth, it was unbelievable. Absolutely no aftertaste. Luwak has very little, but this had none at all.
I was in Bali about two weeks ago visiting my coffee roaster there. He has a couple civets in a cage at the plant. He had me try a new coffee he found - not luwak - he won't even tell me where he found it, but it was so smooth, it was unbelievable. Absolutely no aftertaste. Luwak has very little, but this had none at all.
Feb 12th, 2009, 05:52 AM
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You're right, Michael, the E&O is an old Sarkie's Bros hotel. It is just heaven, isn't it. Lori? I'd go back to Penang just to stay there (and eat the hawker food, of course).
Let me see if I can describe how to get to the Kheng Pin from the E&O. I can picture it, but may not be that good at describing it. Go out the main door of the E&O, cross the street, and walk up the short street to the right past a couple of cafes and night clubs. You'll reach a main street, walk a couple of blocks up the street and you'll see it on the right hand side. There is a photo of it in our Penang photos - www.marlandc.com Go to the Penang section, Georgetown, and in the top row of photos, it's the next to the last photo.
Let me see if I can describe how to get to the Kheng Pin from the E&O. I can picture it, but may not be that good at describing it. Go out the main door of the E&O, cross the street, and walk up the short street to the right past a couple of cafes and night clubs. You'll reach a main street, walk a couple of blocks up the street and you'll see it on the right hand side. There is a photo of it in our Penang photos - www.marlandc.com Go to the Penang section, Georgetown, and in the top row of photos, it's the next to the last photo.
Feb 12th, 2009, 05:51 PM
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O Lori...nothing could make me laugh more than this trip report--unless it was you folding T shirts...
I swear, I spent many minutes trying to visulize the mouse, the bag & the m&ms and you on the bed. I lieteraly closed my eyes...Nah, nothing was as good as reading it...
so I read it again, and then again.
Geez---thanks for the biggest belly laugh I have had in months...
I am, however, insanely jealous of the food you have been eating...drool.
I swear, I spent many minutes trying to visulize the mouse, the bag & the m&ms and you on the bed. I lieteraly closed my eyes...Nah, nothing was as good as reading it...
so I read it again, and then again.
Geez---thanks for the biggest belly laugh I have had in months...
I am, however, insanely jealous of the food you have been eating...drool.
Feb 13th, 2009, 04:18 PM
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Lori-I'm happy to report that your trip report has acheived the highest possible accolades in the Fodors pantheon. Specifically, Beth says she likes your report. It really doesn't get any better than that. She refers to most of my posts as drivel. De gustibus non disputandum est.
Feb 14th, 2009, 01:12 AM
#59
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Well, this trip is winding down. And a good thing too, I'm almost worn out. It's seldom that I run out of steam before I run out of money! Heh.
I flew from Penang to BKK which was regrettable; train tickets were unavailable; I would have had to stay in Penang two more days to catch one. Nah.
So here I am in Bangkok for a day longer than I had intended. I'm staying at the Shanghai Mansion just because I've never stayed in Chinatown before. The hotel is quite charming. Last night I had some amazing and cheap seafood (crabs and prawns) at a place called T&K Seafood, just down from the hotel.
Today Tong came to pick me up for lunch and we went to "the Deck" at Arun Residence. It was sort of a western, thai fusion and pretty good. I imagine at night it's quite magical with a nice view across the river to Wat Arun. Stopped in at Coconut Palm to have some lemongrass punch for dessert.
So tonite I'm bored in Bangkok. I know to all you strung out Bangkokers that seems impossible...
Sorry for the anticlimactic ending. I think now that I'm this close, I'm just ready to get to Siem Reap.
All the trips I've taken before, I researched it so heavily that my the time I arrived I actually was having deja vu. This time was the opposite. Everything was a surprise. There are pros and cons to each way of doing it. I suppose for me, there's a good mix of the two that is optimum. Maybe along the way I'll find that balance.
Oh one thing I forgot to mention was something interesting that happened when I was about to leave Penang. The hotel arranged a taxi to pick me up at 2pm. I was sitting in a local cafe about 1/2 mile from the hotel on a little side street sucking on a beer and reading my book, just passing the time when this man walks up to me and says
"Are you staying at the E&O?"
"Yes, I am"
He pulls out a piece of paper. On it was written #111 (my room number) and 2pm. He says "I take you to airport at 2pm". I looked at my watch; 1:20. I look at him quizzically, first of all wondering how he possibly found me and secondly if he was wanting to go now or what? So he says "I go now to get my blessing; can you wait until 2:15?" "Yes, sure I have plenty of time, no problem". He thanks me and barrels off to get his blessing.
This illustrates (one of the) points that Mr. Dogster was making. I think I'm sitting in some obscure cafe drinking a beer, when in fact the whole of Penang knows exactly where I am. I guess all Mr Taxi driver had to do was pick up his cell phone and start calling his friends and cousins...."Have you seen a tall white lady with a crewcut?" He probably found me in about 12 seconds.
I'm going to tell my constantly worried mother that if I should ever go missing to just get in touch with any taxi driver in the city in which I was last seen.
I'll report in again from Siem Reap if anything exciting happens. I'm planning a trip to Mondulkiri after the Khmer New Year, so I'll let you know how that shakes out. I haven't read any reports on Fodors yet about that part of Cambodia.
If any of you are headed to Siem Reap in the next several months, I hope you'll come by and say howdy. And if you love me, bring some M&M's.
I flew from Penang to BKK which was regrettable; train tickets were unavailable; I would have had to stay in Penang two more days to catch one. Nah.
So here I am in Bangkok for a day longer than I had intended. I'm staying at the Shanghai Mansion just because I've never stayed in Chinatown before. The hotel is quite charming. Last night I had some amazing and cheap seafood (crabs and prawns) at a place called T&K Seafood, just down from the hotel.
Today Tong came to pick me up for lunch and we went to "the Deck" at Arun Residence. It was sort of a western, thai fusion and pretty good. I imagine at night it's quite magical with a nice view across the river to Wat Arun. Stopped in at Coconut Palm to have some lemongrass punch for dessert.
So tonite I'm bored in Bangkok. I know to all you strung out Bangkokers that seems impossible...
Sorry for the anticlimactic ending. I think now that I'm this close, I'm just ready to get to Siem Reap.
All the trips I've taken before, I researched it so heavily that my the time I arrived I actually was having deja vu. This time was the opposite. Everything was a surprise. There are pros and cons to each way of doing it. I suppose for me, there's a good mix of the two that is optimum. Maybe along the way I'll find that balance.
Oh one thing I forgot to mention was something interesting that happened when I was about to leave Penang. The hotel arranged a taxi to pick me up at 2pm. I was sitting in a local cafe about 1/2 mile from the hotel on a little side street sucking on a beer and reading my book, just passing the time when this man walks up to me and says
"Are you staying at the E&O?"
"Yes, I am"
He pulls out a piece of paper. On it was written #111 (my room number) and 2pm. He says "I take you to airport at 2pm". I looked at my watch; 1:20. I look at him quizzically, first of all wondering how he possibly found me and secondly if he was wanting to go now or what? So he says "I go now to get my blessing; can you wait until 2:15?" "Yes, sure I have plenty of time, no problem". He thanks me and barrels off to get his blessing.
This illustrates (one of the) points that Mr. Dogster was making. I think I'm sitting in some obscure cafe drinking a beer, when in fact the whole of Penang knows exactly where I am. I guess all Mr Taxi driver had to do was pick up his cell phone and start calling his friends and cousins...."Have you seen a tall white lady with a crewcut?" He probably found me in about 12 seconds.
I'm going to tell my constantly worried mother that if I should ever go missing to just get in touch with any taxi driver in the city in which I was last seen.
I'll report in again from Siem Reap if anything exciting happens. I'm planning a trip to Mondulkiri after the Khmer New Year, so I'll let you know how that shakes out. I haven't read any reports on Fodors yet about that part of Cambodia.
If any of you are headed to Siem Reap in the next several months, I hope you'll come by and say howdy. And if you love me, bring some M&M's.
