This report covers 2 nights in Seminyak at the Legian and 6 nights in Ubud at Komaneka at Bisma. It is a continuation of the previous reports I posted for Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam under the title "SE Asia....It's so Hot!"

We were happy to leave Vietnam and flew Malaysia Air from Saigon to Bali,via Kuala Lumpur. The plane was just OK, older, but I was impressed with the modern Kuala Lumpur airport.

We had seats at the front of the plane so could run to immigration when we landed (well, at least as fast as my very heavy carry on bag allowed). First, we had to pay $25 for the Visa on Arrival and get a receipt. Then, we could get in the immigration line. Judging by how far back we were in line, it seemed as if people had somehow paid for their visa ahead of time. Yet, they were holding receipts. It was very slow since they were taking pictures of everyone and having problem with the equipment. Luckily, they weren’t fingerprinting at this time.

By the time we got to the luggage carousel, two porters had laid claim to our bags and were pretty aggressive about helping us. We were caught off guard because this hadn’t happened anywhere else in SE Asia. I wanted to take a prepaid taxi, to avoid the hassle, so they helped us to that window….Tip.
Then, after paying about $7 for a prepaid taxi to Seminyak…The Legian…the taxi rep handed us off to two more guys who pushed our luggage trolley to the parking lot where our taxi was waiting. Tip, again. When we arrived at The Legian, two security guys checked our taxi inside, outside and underside before allowing us to proceed.

After a welcome drink in the lobby, we were escorted to our studio suite (the least expensive rate) on the top floor, #134. At first, I thought it was the specific room I had requested (which I stupidly didn’t have a copy of at the time) but the next day I saw that we were on the south side of the resort, near the massive construction project, exactly opposite of where I had wanted to be. However, we only had two nights here, didn’t want to move, and couldn’t see or hear the project from our room or balconies.

Right after we got into the room, I got a telephone call from the front desk saying they had a guy on the line who was our reserved driver and somehow he missed us at the airport. Damn! I screwed up. When I had booked the Legian through Bali Discovery Tours (who gave us a great rate compared to going through the hotel directly), apparently I had booked the airport transfer at $24 (compared to the $7 for the prepaid taxi, and the $40 that the Legian was going to charge). Somehow, I missed that detail and thought I remembered canceling this because I found out how cheap the taxis were. So, a guy gets on the phone and said he had a sign up with our name but that he had missed us. Frankly, I hadn’t even looked because I wasn’t expecting anyone to meet us. I apologized for the misunderstanding. Now, he was pushing to meet us and take us around Bali. I explained we had already booked a tour guide, and he was pretty insistent but finally accepted that we didn’t want any more guiding.

I looked at my invoice and saw that we’d already paid the $24. So, I called Bali Discovery the next day and asked if they couldn’t instead take us back to the airport from Ubud, in light of our miscommunication. By all rights, they should have charged us more since Ubud is at least twice as far as Seminyak. To their credit, they said they would substitute the return trip at no additional charge.

Our room was as big as a small apartment. The living area jutted out so there were walls of glass on three walls with beautiful sea views, including from the large bathroom area. The décor was simple and elegant, with a welcoming fruit bowl and freshly baked cookies that were changed every day. We had two balconies that overlooked the lovely landscaping, lily ponds, flowering trees and the ocean.

We walked down to La Lucciola restaurant, about a ten minute walk along a dark and rutted road. The restaurant was charmingly sited right above the beach, with open terraces and hanging lit lanterns. As we watched the illuminated breaking surf in the foreground, we enjoyed excellent food and service. It was very hot and still that night, so the frozen lychee martini was a cool comfort.

Afterwards, we walked along the beach back to the hotel. My husband claimed there was smoke in the air and was having trouble breathing, which was strange. I think there must have been a thermal inversion because being in the beach area we weren’t near any rice paddies. I have asthma and it didn’t bother me. Since we had just arrived, we weren’t sure which property was the Legian. Luckily, we happened to ask the security guide for our resort and were happy to find out we’d arrived. Soundly slept in a very comfy bed.

(to be continued)

great start... you will be glad to know the warm weather has continued... i hate to get out of the a/c or pool but i manage to..

anxious to read more... tomorrow we head to east bali for 4 nights..

I really want to hear what you think of East Bali. If we go back, I'd like to see that area and stay in Sanur instead of Seminyak.

Oh goodie... I've been waiting for your report! It's off to a great start. And, thanks to you, I've been checking out the hotels on Bali Discovery's website. We've decided to scrap our Thailand portion and just do Bali for our entire time -- now I need to figure out a new area to see.

we love sanur... have no comparison to seminyak however as we have never been there

so far e bali is nice... towns a lot like thailand towns...

tirka ay resort is very nice for 2-3 days

amarena, I'm glad you're reading the report. I thought Bali Discovery offered very good rates and customer service.

rhkkmk, hope your East Bali experience continues to go well.

The next morning dawned sunny...and no surprise...very hot. For breakfast, we sat outside on the raised terrace overlooking the lawn, double infinity swimming pool and the sea. The Legian served the best breakfast we had in SE Asia, and that's saying a lot. Wonderful pancakes, waffles and eggs cooked to order and the best coffee I've had.

I must not have been in my right mind, because I left G at the beautiful swimming pool and went shopping in that heat. I had heard so much about the great shopping that I had to check it out for myself. Armed with the Luxe guide suggestions, I set off walking along an incredibly beat up street. I realized that the recommended Biasa store was farther away than I thought, so hailed a cab.

Biasa, actually in Kuta although it was listed as Seminyak, had unique cotton and linen resort wear, mostly in white, tan, navy or black. I found a cute linen sundress with floaty sheer organza ribbons cascading from the bodice to the hem. From there, I set off walking and walking back, stopping in stores to cool off and sustained with just a water and chocolate bar. Nothing really appealed to me (other than some batik napkins and rings), and things were expensive. So after a couple of hours of this, and not reaching the hotel yet, I grabbed another cab to take me to the much appreciated pool.

That night, we walked next door to The Samaya and had ‘no sunset’ cocktails at Breezes, sitting on a cushioned settee on the expansive lawn overlooking the beach. The restaurant manager came over to welcome us and recommended his creation - “Green Peace”...delicious. Overall, I thought the common beachfront area was more attractive at The Legian, although we didn’t see the individual villas at The Samaya.

We should have just stayed there and eaten dinner at Breezes. Instead, we took a taxi for a short ride to Sarong, a stylish restaurant with a hint of attitude. I ordered a green curry dish, but the waitress recommended the chicken curry if I didn’t like it too spicy. It was excellent. However, G was less pleased with the twice cooked lamb shank. It was a little dry and there wasn’t any sauce or juice served with it.

Our last morning in Seminyak, we walked the beach for awhile. After we left the hotel grounds, it wasn’t very nice. Brownish sand, beach sellers, and we needed to wade through mid-calf deep water a couple times as water rushed out from some inlets.

Our guide, Putu Aranawa, who was recommended by several on Fodor’s forums, picked us up in his newer SUV at 1:30pm. He took us first to Tanah Lot, the temple that’s located on top of a rock promontory that juts into the sea. First you have to walk through quite a lot of tourist stalls. We arrived at low tide so we could walk across the wet sand to get closer. We could not actually go inside the temple, but instead took a lot of photos from several locations. This gets quite crowded at sunset, but we arrived mid-afternoon so it was quiet.

On the way to Ubud, we stopped in the village of Mas to visit a mask maker’s home studio. G bought a hand carved and painted yellow tiger mask. We were told we probably couldn’t negotiate, but since we had only so much cash, he accepted less.

Then, Putu drove us to Komaneka at Bisma in Ubud, our home for the next 6 nights. At first, I was underwhelmed when we pulled into the entrance. But the resort had a simple elegance and intriguing art work throughout. You enter the Lobby area, which is on the top 4th floor, with a large rectangular shallow pool for decor in the middle of the space. Comfy sofas are on one side and the bar area on the other with large Balinese style platform settees that you can stretch out on. There are several amazingly beautiful huge free form pieces of wood that make up a creative reception desk, tables and one tall vertical piece was sculpted into hundreds of tiny heads.

All of this overlooked a long narrow infinity pool, whose greenness blended with the surrounding rice paddies and hilly forests. In the distance, you could see several mountain peaks, but the overall view was more closed in than panoramic. Unfortunately, the rice paddies were in the wet and muddy stage, but the reflections in the water were still attractive.

To be continued:

anxious for more... great reporting..

do you suggest then that we not try a trip to seminyak---for shopping and a meal??

our digs at e. bali are quiet and comfortable... k has gone on a rice paddy walk for 2 hours this AM with a private guide.. we have yet to leave the property..

rhkkmk,

If you're turning to jello and feel the need to reenter traffic and noise, then head for Seminyak. The restaurants are great, so that's worth a trip. I didn't go to the huge indoor shopping mall there so I can't comment on what they have. I walked from the Biasa store on Jalan Raya Seminyak road all the way north to where it connects with Jalan Laksmana (Oberoi) road, and walked west down that about half way. I just wasn't blown away by the shops as I was looking for unique Bali handicrafts or unusua; clothing. But maybe there are other shopping areas that I didn't find.
As far as Seminyak, not much charm unless you're staying at The Legian or The Samay and then don't leave except to eat. Driving around is definitely a disappointing look at Bali.

I forgot to describe the rooms, which were located in a four level hotel block. Our's was on the third floor so we still had a great view overlooking the rice paddies and the forest. The room block was the only negative from my perspective as it didn't fit my image of the quintessential Bali villa. I had really struggled with where to stay in Ubud, and I thought this was a good compromise as it is a new resort with luxurious rooms, a lovely setting and a moderate rate. However, if I had to do it again, I'd try to stay at someplace overlooking the Ayung River gorge.

It was very large with a separate living area and large flat screen TV, a wall of glass windows stretching along the terrace and the living & bed rooms with two chaise lounges and a table and chairs. Every night at turndown they lit two large glass lanterns.

That first night, the heart shaped pattern of frangipani and rose petals decorated the middle of our king bed. The room was very comfortable and luxurious if not overly charming....more simple and modern with some lovely artwork pieces. G coveted the two colorful hand -carved mini mask heads that were wine bottle stoppers...found out later they cost $150. A separate closet room for luggage and clothing was very useful. The spacious bathroom had a large glass shower, a separate tub, and two sinks.

It was a full moon tonight, but we were so tired we just ordered pizza , pulled two local Bintang beers from the mini bar and sat out on our moonlit terrace to enjoy the night time frog chorus.

barefoot- Totally agree about 1st impressions at Bisma. The room blocks are a little prison-like, but the pool is amazingly long and pretty, the rooms very nicely done and comfortable, and lovely lobby area. We enjoyed breakfast out on the balcony overlooking the pool. But it's clearly more like a hotel than the Balinese villa style accommodations. Have they improved the road there yet?

susncrg, yes I didn't notice any problems with the road....and I agree, the pool is stunning.

Great minds think alike... we, too, have booked the Komeneka Bisma 2 bedroom pool suite for a few of our nights. I didn't realize it was a hotel block situation, though. Hmm... not sure if I like that. But we used to stay on the same road many years ago, so it holds good memories for us. I like the location in that you can get to central Ubud rather easily. Also liked that there are rice field views. But the latest reviews have not been raving. We are already staying a few days in Penestanen at a house we have rented before, so my main goals of the Komeneka Bisma property were to be more central AND to have a rice field view.

On a different subject -- we have some friends who recently invited us to join them in Peru next February. As I started researching for that trip, I came across your trip report! Great information -- we had been thinking about that Inka? Amazon lodge with our 2 boys, but you have me rethinking that. Sounds a bit TOO rustic and buggy for me; but I think my boys would like seeing all the animals/bugs. I might pick your brain over on that trip report if you don't mind...

amarena,
If you booked the 2 bedroom pool suite, that's a different animal. I believe that that one is down near the little river so you wouldn't be in the hotel block. When I was there, it looked like the Spa was using those facilities for massages and I thought there was just one honeymoon suite, but I could be wrong. The young woman who gave me my dance lesson (yet to be described, but we can sum it up in one word...pathetic (me, not her)) took me down there for the view and it was nice and private and gurgling (the river, that is)

And you're right, it's nice and central for Ubud and they have a convenient shuttle.

Contact me on that trip report and we'll chat about it. The lodge itself was not too rustic and buggy (well, I'm comparing it to our African luxury tent experience and I loved them both) The problem was with the day excursions.

Thanks for the info on the 2 bedroom suite. We could also stay at Kajane Mua in a family villa, but I liked the looks of the Komaneka. The views look fabulous.

Can't wait to hear about the rest of your Bali time!

amarena,
Funny, I don't remember seeing Kajane Mua when we walked around but it must have been close by. I looked at it's site and some Tripadvisor reports, and I think it looks lovely! I'm not sure what the views look like though.

Since Memorial Day weekend is now over, I hope to get back to the report.

I love Bali, its the best!

Barefoot - so glad you are enjoying your Bali trip. Just back from Vietnam and yes - it was soooo hot! It is the last time we travel to SE Asia in May.

I am trying to decide if Bali is a place that we would be interested in going to in the future, but most of what I have read from your report and most others is about the beautiful hotels. Is that what Bali is all about - the luxurious hotels, beaches, spas and great food? What are the interesting sites, history, culture that make Bali so unique and desirable? I know that many on Fodors rave about Bali - we are just trying to figure out what it is that makes Bali so special.

dgungbug, I'll promise to start my Ubud report tomorrow. Are you reading rhkkmk's report? He has a lot more information about Bali other than hotels.

Looking forward to more of your report. I've gotta read Bob's report more closely. It's filled with so much banter that I've missed the meat of it other than the fact that Bob loved Korean Airlines!!! I agree there. We flew coach - last few rows are all 2 seat configurations and are superb seats with lots of leg room, amazing service, decent food. By the way...I know I must do some sort of trip report on Vietnam, but after yours, it's hard to say more.