TiffnTokyo

I am currently teaching in Tokyo and am planning a trip this August to Malaysia/Singapore.

I spent one week in Thailand in May and had an amazing time. This time I am traveling alone and need some advice about whether it's safe for a girl to travel alone in Malaysia. I would love any advice about things to do, cheap places to stay and whether mid August is a good time to travel here. I enjoy sports, hiking, being outdoors, seeing caves, snorkeling and learning about new cultures and trying new food.

Thank you in advance for all your help!
Tiffany

TexasSlim

Malaysia is very safe for you to travel in, the only possibility of having some problems would be in the conservative east coast, so if you wander into that area make sure you keep a low profile, and wear no revealing clothing.
To connect with the backpacker crowd I suggest you head stright for Georgetown, visit the backpacker hotels/hangouts around Chulia St & Penang road. You'll soon find a mine of information on where to go and what to see.

KMLoke

Malaysia although generally safe you still have to keep up your guard and stay on the beaten track.

TiffnTokyo

Awesome, thank you! Have either of you been there before?? Any advice?

kclaudia

I was there a few days in KL.. long long time ago..
I didn't like the food..
but the city was very clean and safe..

AmateursGuide

I traveled with a Trailfinders group (their Bangkok to Bali Rover overland trip). It seemed perfectly safe either with a group or solo. Enjoyed hiking in the Cameron Highlands and going to an islet off the East Coast near Tioman Island.

Found Indonesia to be even more dramatic though -- don't miss it if you can!

Kathie

I've traveled a fair amount in Malaysia, though never as a backpacker. I'd say to start with a good guidebook and decide where you want to go. August is a good time to visit the east coast beaches (I liked Kuantan). I love the food in Malaysia - so much to choose from.

Where to go will depend in part on how much time you have. There are some easy north-south routes. The buses in Malaysia are very reasonably priced and the luxury buses are very nice (and cheap enough for a backpacker's budget). You'll meet lots of other travelers.

KMLoke

I live in Singapore. Haven't tried backpacking there though.

You could fly down to Singapore for a day or two. Take a bus to Malacca for a day than another bus up to Kuala Lumpur. From Kuala Lumpur a bus up to Penang. Take a train back down to Singapore.

There's lots of nice beaches in Malaysia you could go to. The current in place is in Redang which is in the North West. Read that a barge did damage some corals recently though. Kuantan would be nice laid back.

KMLoke

Forgot about the food. Coming from Tokyo you would find food in Singapore/Malaysia very affordable particularly the street food. You have to be careful was in some places may not be up to the standard in hygiene. Stick to the food that's freshly cooked which shouldn't be too difficult. For these reasons go to the places which are the most crowded! Lots of the food here are laden with chilli and spices which may take some using to.

In Singapore the best places are the hawker centres which offer a wide variety of cuisine. Of course being alone would restrict that you can try as it's common and accepted for groups to order from different stalls and to share in the food.

My favourite hawker centres are in Chinatown (there's 2) One near People's Park and the other near Sago Street.
Another very famous one is nearby at Maxwell Road - a short walk from Tanjong Pagar MRT station). They are in Chinatown where you could spend some time. A lot of the place has undergoing conservation and the traditional feel has gone but it's still a nice place to go.

In Malacca there's lots of Pernakan food you must try.
Kuala Lumpur - not really familiar as I last visited years ago.
Penang - go to Gurney Drive in the evening. Not the best food and pricy by local standards but decent. There's lots of good food at Pulau Tikus area.

TexasSlim

Sure, I've traveled around Malaysia many times and for many years, first went there in the late 1970s. In many respects I prefer Malaysia to Thailand as I find it more "user friendly"
Food is great. I really love the nonya cooking, heaps of great Indian restaurants & banana leaf shops, very good Chinese, also Malay cuisine has some nice things.
Penang is most interesting, especially old Georgetown. I also like Cameron Highlands, been to Ipoh, KL, KB, many places. East coast beaches are better than west coast,

TravelTwiddle

Tiffany, if you have some extra cash, do stay in good hotels. They are usually safer and do not allow strangers into their premises. To get an idea, 3-4 star hotels usually charge RM130-180 per night. I'd stay away from places that charges below RM100, unless your boyfriend is coming along. Walking around town areas is usually safe, most crimes are committed by illegal immigrants who work in construction areas and plantation. If there are women and children playing around the vicinity, the place is usually safe.

Yes, I agree with TexasSLim. For first timer, stay in routes in west coast peninsular. By the way, there is a huge Japanese community in Kuala Lumpur (KL), Ipoh and Penang. There are dedicated Japanese International schools here too. I know some Japanese couples who retired here because they can't take the yearly winter back home. So, I reckon you won't face much culture shock since you're already familiar with Asian norm.

OK, where to go in mid August. Fly to KL international airport, travel by ERL hi-speed train to the city central. Do not take the taxi as there are a lot of unscrupulous ones highlighted by the newspapers lately. ERL is cheaper and faster. Once you have reached KL Sentral, take city's LRT monorail or STAR. The electric trains will take you to virtually anywhere in KL. Route maps are everywhere in the stations. If in trouble, ask around. Everyone in KL speaks English. Suggest you to stay in Jalan Sultan Ismail area. Hotels there are linked by the LRT/STAR trains. They are also walking distance to Petronas Twin Towers and Bukit Bintang shopping area. Very safe place to go on foot.

You won't find outdoorsy stuff in KL though. For that, perhaps you may want to travel to Perak. For buses, go to PUDU BUS Station, also connect by STAR train. Buy your tickets from the many counters there (about RM16 one way). In Perak, stay at Ipoh city. Hotels and good food is cheap. I'd see whether my sister or a Japanese lady friend can drive you around for trekking, caving and cultural stuffs. This Japanese lady is a teacher exchange program participant. She is living in Ipoh for 6 months. She hangs out with my sis and we have gone whitewater rafting together. Let me know the dates and I try to get one of them to show you around. You won't find Ipoh in most tourist maps but I assure you the place is steeped in tradition and biodiversity. Have you seen the 1999 movie blockbuster "Anna and The King" starring Jodie Foster? Well, it was filmed in Ipoh. You know Michelle Yeoh, the actress in James Bond movie and the recent movie about Geisha? She was born and bred in Ipoh.

Well, I wish I could tell you more but I am not sure of how many days you are planning to stay. Perhaps, you should stick to KL on your first trip and get a feel of the multiculture ambience first. If you are planning to stay long, you should go Penang island too for its heritage and food.

Remember, get a backpack that has heavy strapping on the waist. You should carry the weight on your strongest part - the waist; not shoulders. Short khaki pant and cottony shirts is advisable. They are easier to dry. The weather is warm here. Sun lotion is a must - spf 45 of higher. If you worry about communication with your family, buy a 2nd hand mobile phone (about RM100-200) in Bukit Bintang shopping area and load it with prepaid phone fee. Starter pack is as low as RM20 and you get a dedicated number your friends can call, anytime anywhere. Save all emergency and embassy contact numbers in the phone. I always believe the mobile phone is the most essential safety item overlooked by backpackers. Use technology to keep your journey trouble free.

Happy planning.

TiffnTokyo

Thank you all for such awesome advice! I am getting really excited about my trip and starting to sort out the details.

I am most interested in doing outdoor activities but I would like to spend a day or so in Singapore and one in KL. But I would prefer to spend most of my time in the water, hiking or exploring caves. KMLoke, your itinerary sounds good! Thank you!

TravelTwiddle, I would LOVE to connect with your sister and friend if possible. I am Canadian and living/working in Japan, and love Japanese culture. Ipoh sounds interesting and I am excited to go trekking, caving and learn more about Malaysian culture.

I have about 7 days, and will leave here I think on August 11. Do you think I would be able to connect with them?

TravelTwiddle

Dear TiffnTokyo, I just phoned my sis and unfortunately she is leaving for United Kingdom in early August for holiday. She hopes to arrive UK before autumn sets in. As for the Jpnese friend, she will also leave in July. Anyway, my sis says if you come anytime July, she will gladly take you around. There are a lot of things to see in Ipoh and you can't cover all even if you spend 8 nights here. For a start, if you come July, my sis recommend you stay 2 nights here. She'd meet you at Ipoh's bus station, help you settle down in a hotel and take you to
- Gua Tempurung, million year old beautiful limestone cave
- rainforest trekking up Kledang Hill
- Matang mangrove forest, Ngah Ibrahim fort, Taiping town and Kuala Sepetang fishing village.
If you can't come in July and your date is fixed on August 11, if you don't mind, I can show you around. I stay in Ipoh with my family, I have two kids and I am a travel writer for New Straits Times, the oldest English newspaper in Msia. You can write to me at [email protected]

woods

Tiff,
Id like to disagree with the above poster and implore you to stay away from 3-4 star hotels that charge over 100 ringgit a night! Whats the point of backpacking if you're gonna stay in your room watching the tv and not meeting anyone?

Malaysia is probably the safest country Ive ever backpacked through, and if you can't stay in cheap hostels in this country and feel safe, I don't know where you can. The hostels were surprising clean and generally friendly. I stayed in one (admittedly in the middle of no where) for 7 ringgit!

If you want to meet up with other travellers, this is the way to go, otherwise, you'll be stuck by yourself for the whole time. When I was there this year, I met at least 10 girls who were travelling alone, so safety is not an issue as long as ur smart about it.

Finally, if outdoor natural beauty is what your after, you're more likely to find that in Malaysian Borneo then peninsular Malaysia, so i'd advise you to check that out. Its a fair bit cheaper (particularly Sarawak), English is widespoken

woods

Tiff,
Id like to disagree with the above poster and implore you to stay away from 3-4 star hotels that charge over 100 ringgit a night! Whats the point of backpacking if you're gonna stay in your room watching the tv and not meeting anyone?

Malaysia is probably the safest country Ive ever backpacked through, and if you can't stay in cheap hostels in this country and feel safe, I don't know where you can. The hostels were surprising clean and generally friendly. I stayed in one (admittedly in the middle of no where) for 7 ringgit!

If you want to meet up with other travellers, this is the way to go, otherwise, you'll be stuck by yourself for the whole time. When I was there this year, I met at least 10 girls who were travelling alone, so safety is not an issue as long as ur smart about it.

Finally, if outdoor natural beauty is what your after, you're more likely to find that in Malaysian Borneo then peninsular Malaysia, so i'd advise you to check that out. Its a fair bit cheaper (particularly Sarawak), English is widespoken, and generally less touristy.

TiffnTokyo

I have been checking flight prives from Tokyo to Malaysia/Singapore. It is much cheaper to fly to Singapore. I was wondering, is it cheap to travel around Malaysia by bus?

Traveltwiddle, I am very interested in seeing the caves and trekking. I'm thinking of taking KMLoke's suggestion, flying into Singapore, making my way up to KL and then Penang and back to Singapore.How long would it take me from KL to Ipoh and would 1 or 2 days be enough there?

TravelTwiddle

Hello again Tiffn. Yes, sometimes Spore Airlines is cheaper than Msian Airlines; especially if you're flying in from new Kanzai or Narita. Sporean Airlines has very good top management and their government is very committed in making Spore the first pitstop for travellers into South east asia. Frankly, Spore is quite a nice place to start getting a feel of South East asia; dampens the culture shock before you go deeper.

As for recommending hotels above RM100 for backpackers, I am sorry if others find it offensive. The thing is, I don't want to make every backpacker think that Msia is a super safe country. We have our shortcomings too. I used to work as an engineer for Sanyo Ohta-Ku factory branch in Saitama prefecture. I was amazed how our lady staffs still feel safe walking around in late nights. Generally in Msia, ladies don't walk alone after 10pm, except in bright lit urban areas. If my sister go backpacking in other parts of the world, I'd definately want her to think safety rather than cheap because she is alone. For RM7 a night, although in the middle of nowhere, I can't imagine what kind of room you'd get. Let me feed you on the cost of living here. A loaf of bread cost RM1.90, Coke RM1.50, Kentucky Fried Chicken dinner plate set RM9.80, Msian breakfast of noodle and ice tea at street stall RM5.00, Japanese Ramen noodle set in KL RM18.80. So, for RM7 room rate, I shudder. Now, if it's Penang, yes there are cheap hostels along Chulia Street for backpackers (made famous by Lonely PLanet). But I haven't heard about RM7 rooms yet.

Travelling from Spore to KL by bus is a jiffy, probably takes you 4-6 hrs. KL to Ipoh is about 2-3 hrs. It can be faster but the bus usually make a few stops for passengers to go to the loo at designated rest areas along the PLUS highway. Price varies. Some company charge cheap RM8.80 KL-Ipoh but their buses make a lot of stops in small towns along the way; making KL-Ipoh journey stretch to 3-4 hrs. The VIP or VVIP ones usually charge RM12-20 one way and they take you direct to Ipoh. Remember, never store you backpack in the bus's belly compartment. I have friends who lost their luggage when other passengers mistakenly (or intentionally) unloaded the luggage.

If you arrive Ipoh in the morning, say 10am, then you'd have enough time to hike up a rainforest hill in Kledang (see the whole Kinta valley from its top, wallow in an uncharted creek, see world's smaller pitcher plant or "monkey cup&quot and explore the million year old Tempurung limestone cave in the afternoon. Stay overnight in Ipoh and perhaps go trawl the city's night bazaar and famous street food. If the next day coincide with Saturday, I try to book you with some whitewater rafting activity at Kampar River. The program is run by a swashbuckling lady who captained Msian Mild Seven Adventure Challenge Team to China a few years back. The activity ends at about 2pm, lunch provided. Perhaps you can buy a bus ticket for Penang at 5pm. If whitewater is not your cup of tea, I can can give you a tour around Ipoh and Batu Gajah - or perhaps if I have the time, I'd take you to Matang mangrove forest. It's a hidden place where the rainforest shakes hand with the sea. Very few people, even Msians, have seen it. Frankly, you can only skim the surface of Ipoh in 2 days but you can always come back later.

I've just discovered a company that takes vacationers to Payar Marine park for snorkelling in Penang. So, you can check them out when you're in Penang. They charge RM250, full day trip lunch included. I'm going to try them out soon with my wife. See www.langkawicoral.com.

Many foreigners have the notion that peninsular Msia has nothing for the outdoors. I have stayed in Sarawak and Sabah in early 90s'. Yes, I agree these places are steeped in mega biodiversity. They are by themselves world-class destinations for eco-tourism. But if one has made the choice of travelling to peninsular, you can still enjoy outdoors on par with Borneo. It really depends who is guiding you and where you look for information. Bear in mind, Borneo and peninsular share the same rainforest that escaped the last Ice Age. Take for example, the rare Rafflesia bloom - the world's largest flower. Not many know, besides Borneo, one can also spot wild Rafflesia blooms in Ulu Geroh rainforest (Ulu Geroh is about 30 mins drive from Ipoh). I personally would like more people to discover hidden areas, rather than commercial ones. It helps bring some economical spread to native community. If a place is indicated in some touristy maps or website targetted to foreigners, I am certain someone in tie and suit is making money out of it and pour very little back to the backwater villagers that were uprooted by mass tourism.

You are the kind of eco-traveller I would like to help. At the same time, I also want you to play on the safe side because eco-tourism is not all about being gung-ho.

Happy planning!

harzer

I like what Woods had to tell you.

I am in Singapore right now, staying in (Horror!) Geylang where a hotel room with shower costs around $US40 a night.

The backpacker trail in Malaysia is quite safe - just get hold of a Lonely Planet guide and take it from there.

Do not miss Tioman Island if you like hiking and a laid-back lifestyle. There is a great walk from the west coast over to the east side, and the swimming is good there if you like some surf.

Harzer

walkinaround

i spent two weeks in KL for business and i loved it. the people and food were great and i felt very safe walking around alone at night.

however, when trying to decide on an asian holiday destination for this year, i was reading a lonely planet guide that included malaysia. i was very surprised to see all of the warnings for women travellers. many were for the popular resort areas and very strongly worded. LP does not tend to be alarmist about these things but who knows.

we did not select malaysia so i can't comment personnally (decision had nothing to do with this). worth checking out and getting opinions from other women. funny because attitudes towards both foreign and local women seemed very respectful in KL.

woods

In response to walkinaround, it all depends on your perspective of danger. Personally I've found Lonely Planet to be pretty over the top with warnings of certain areas being dangerous and so forth, but I don't blame them, cos they are very widely read and need to cover themselves for all eventualities.

Traveltwiddle. I actually have a few relatives in Malaysia who tended to have the same advice for me when I went there - that it can be quite dangerous and to be on the look out for dodgy people, but I have to say as a foreigner I had absolutely no problems and didn't hear anything negative from anyone that I met over the 2 months. Of course, that's not to say there's no crime whatsoever, you can never let your guard down completely, but if you spend the whole time worrying about getting into trouble and only staying in the expensive, nice parts of town - well...i just don't see how that's an enjoyable and authentic experience.