Can anyone recommend a clean guest house or hotel in Amritsar, preferrably with character not a depressing overpriced concrete hell hole like the ones I've seen in the guide books & trip advisor (honorable exception seems Mrs B's Guesthouse which is booked for the night we're hoping to go). Happening places on Saturday night in Amritsar? Happening in the post- 50 stiff-jointed generation sense.

Ranjeet Svaasa is a fine heritage hotel in Amritsar. They have excellant suites varying in size & decor. The Rai Bahadur suites are lower category & svaasa suites are higher. The food is good.
The Grand Legacy has a great suite with a private bar (303??). The restaurant attracts a lot of native crowd & meals are reasonably priced / good. The only drawback is the sound levels as it situates close to railyard.
For typical Amritsar food visit Bharawon-ka-dhaba past the hall bazaar. Their black dal is good! For fish snacks do visit Makhan Singh.
The service at Amritsar hotels is not well-oiled as elsewhere due to paucity of western tourists.
Happy travels!

For hotels in Amritsar, I have only stayed at the MK Hotel (http://www.mkhotel.com/), which is a bit out of town. It is perfectly fine international style chain hotel, it may not be what you are looking for (I was there on business and hung around a few days after). From my trusty Lonely Planet and Allistar Sawday guidebooks (you may want to get the first and definitely consider the second as well), I have pulled the following reccos, they look interesting:

Ranjit’s Svaasa http://www.svaasa.com/ - this is mentioned by VP above and does look very interesting indeed.

Mrs Bhandiri’s Guesthouse,I think that is the Mrs B you refer to above. But see
http://bhandari_guesthouse.tripod.com/mainpic.htm

Hotel CJ international, http://www.cjhotel.net/

I would agree that generally Amritsar is lacking in hotels, but the sights make up for it IMO.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll try Svaasa - noted also the other advice.

I would like to recommend the place I stayed. Trouble is I have long forgotten the name. I arrived in a horse drawn taxi - my first landfall after the border crossing from Pakistan. And I was sick. Stayed in that room for two days. When I came out and sat outside, breakfast was offered, and when I left the gift of two green apples.

My introduction to India. I left on the train to Delhi - first class (the only time I travelled that way). And had decided that India was not for me. I'd just go and see the Taj Mahal and then go home.

I remember waiting for a connection at New Delhi Station. Sitting on the floor a little way away from a young women with a baby who seemed to have nothing else.

I gave her one of the apples and ate the other. Got to Agra.

Gradually I found my bearings. I didn't go home in the end. Stayed in the country for six months.

So if there are any long-term travellers reading this, just hang on in there. That sense of weariness does pass.

OP - The Golden Temple is special - don't rush your visit. And while you are in town, do seek out Jallianwalla Bagh.