Having gotten the beginning of my trip (approx 6 nights in Kyoto) and the end of my trip (approx 4 nights in Tokyo) sorted, I am now planning roughly 24 nights between March 10 and April 2-ish for roaming.

I would like to ask for feedback on my “big picture plan" before starting to drill down to create a detailed itinerary.

CONTEXT: My interests are temples/shrines, traditional crafts, historical Japan (yes, including folk life villages), outdoors (walking and cycling -- I will not be equipped for serious hiking) and inexpensive/street food. I enjoy trains and ferries and the process of getting from A to B. I can spend hours just wandering through neighborhoods, looking at life.

I travel with a carry-on size backpack (Osprey Porter 46) and thus am mobile.I have no objection to spending a single night in a location of that makes sense. I am a “budget traveler.” I am not chasing the Sakura.

BIG PICTURE PLAN/IDEA:

After Kyoto: make a loop south/west from Kyoto for approximately 2 weeks, and then – possibly passing up through Kyoto again --head to Kanazawa and from there southeast toward Tokyo over the course of about 9 days. The route looks a bit like the Big Dipper.

Nights of:

March 4-9: Kyoto, 6 nights. The hotel booked but can switch to put first night in Osaka (street food!), add night of March 10 in Kyoto or reduce Kyoto to 5 nights as I would arrive mid-morning of the 5th from Osaka) and thus really not lose a day.

March 10-24-ish (approx. 15 nights): southern/western counterclockwise loop Below are ideas of places to see/be and things to do, not necessarily places to overnight. And they are not necessarily in the right order: eg., where would I fit Onomichi and the Shimanami Kaido in this list?

Departing Kyoto to ...
• Kurashiki
• Hiroshima (interested in WW2 history)
• Inland sea islands: Miyajima, possibly Ikuchi-jima and/or Nao-shima -- overnight here after Hiroshima?
• Shikoku – at least three nights; more if feasible
• If weather permits, cycle the Shimanami Kaido
• Ferry from Shikoku to Wakayama, and then to
• Koya-san (overnight if possible)
• Nara

.... then heading north ...

March 25-ish – April 2-ish (approx.9 nights):
• Kanazawa (3 nights?)
• Takayama (2 nights?)
• Kiso Valley: walk postal road between Tsumago and Magome (x nights)
• Fuji area….where? (9-5-x nights nights)

April 3-6: Tokyo (day trips to Nikko and/or Mito? Depends on Sakura and/or plums)
April 7: depart NRT


QUESTION: Does my "plan" even make sense? Or should I go back to the drawing board?

I’m pretty sure I will have to cut some things, or perhaps even go back to square one. And I am pretty sure that this will be the first of many trips to Japan!

Thank you to everyone for your help and patience.

Sounds like a great trip!

I’m a bit confused about your timing – you say you have 24 days, but are planning closer to 34. But I think your questions are about the 24 days between Kyoto and Tokyo?

IMO, staying on Miyajima after Hiroshima makes a lot of sense – it can be a lovely place to decompress after the emotional experience of the A-Bomb Dome, Peace Park, and Peace Museum, and Miyajima is much more pleasant when day-trippers are not around. Given your interests, you would probably enjoy going to the top of Mt. Misan, too.

Also, when I went to Japan, I wanted to splurge for just one night on a ryokan, and at least at that time, Momiji-so, on Miyajima, was about as affordable as a real ryokan could be! Since then, though, I’ve read that it no longer takes solo travelers. I don’t know; you might want to look into it:
http://www.booking.com/hotel/jp/momiji-so.html

If you go to Koyasan, I strongly encourage staying overnight – but it can be pricey, and from what I’ve ready, staying at the less expensive temples can be a bit of a disappointment. (Of course, I don’t know if that’s true!) I chose another splurge there, Shojoshin-in, and thought it worth every penny.
https://www.japaneseguesthouses.com/...n=Shojoshin-in

I’m sure you realize that Nara is close enough to Kyoto that many people visit it from there as a day trip. I was glad to spend two nights in Nara.

I think 3 nights in Kanazawa and 2 in Takayama is a perfect combination, given your interests.

Many people visit Nikko as a day trip from Tokyo. I was glad to spend a night there, as it gave me time to see Kegon-no-Taki, a bit of Lake Chuzenji, and the Kanmangafuchi Abyss.

Hope that helps!

Hi,
Your plan makes sense if it satisfies what you want, and you know yourself best. It looks like you are covering a lot of bases. Here are a few pointers though.

Since you have so much time and are not traveling that far that fast, a series of regional rail passes would likely serve you best.
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2357.html
You could base yourself out of Hiroshima City or Onomichi for that area if you like. Actually you mention Ikuchijima which has Kosanji - one of the wildest places you'll ever see. Some call it a "Buddhist Disneyland"; at any rate it is quite a place to see:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97Q5EjEOXI8

Japan Guide has lots of info on what to see, and better, how to get there. Still, it too has some holes, and you should also look at the official city websites for the places you plan to go to - nearly all have tourist info with great places to see that are not listed anywhere else.
If you like walking/cycling, the Shimanami Kaidō is one very good choice. Another is the Kibi Plain in Okayama
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5705.html
and for one of the best half-day hikes in your life there is Kotohira in Kagawa
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ley9rVIewoQ
and for something unforgettable, walk through the Akiyoshido Limestone Cave in Yamaguchi (9 km long; 1 km open to explore) with huge caverns carved out over 300 million years.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqIKC9S8TFQ
For WWII history, the Hiroshima Peace Park/Museum covers the bombing, horrific destruction and advocacy of nuclear weapon abolishment, but probably not 'history', like you're alluding to. (Everyone should go there though.) More likely you'd like the Yamato Museum in Kure, Hiroshima, or the kamikaze museums in Fukuoka & Kagoshima, or for battles, really, Okinawa.
And if you like, there is Okunoshima (Bunny Island), where you can get mobbed by rabbits and see a WWII poison gas factory remains.
You also omitted Himeji, which is well worth some attention, and since you have time, the Hikone Castle is also an excellent original castle to see.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCp5HCc6rYQ
For cherry blossoms, you might look at:
http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2011.html
And if you're interested in Mito, you might as well go see the Hitachi Seaside Park as well a bit further.
http://en.hitachikaihin.jp/

Also, since you suggest you'll return to Japan in the future, there is no need to try barnstorming to do it all the first time and being an overachiever. Take your time, and leave some places for next time. You couldn't do it all the first time anyways.

Regarding your visit to Fujisan: most here will suggest Hakone, but I've been four times and have never had the good fortune to see Fujisan from there. So I'd recommend Kawaguchiko--I've been there twice and seen Fujisan both times, plus it's three times closer to the mountain than Hakone.

Kawaguchiko is one of the Fuji Five Lakes (Fujigoko); I've been to all five, which is a cool trip if you have the time and the wheels. but they are all variations on the same view and Kawaguchiko has the best ones, and other amusements. The Shiraito Falls are good (as is the Asagiri Highland that you see on the way). The Sengokuhara Pampas Grass Field is good, too.

The JNTO guide is here (lots more in the same place): http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/RTG/PTG/pdf/pg-405.pdf

I just love that you will do a month's trip with a backpack!
I can't even fit my electronics in that. ;-) Actually I do travel pretty light and have done three weeks with a rolling back pack....

Anyway, your itinerary has a lot of nice possibilities - I have been to many of the places you mention. I must say I was not as enamored of Kurashiki as some folks here are - I used it as a base for three nights to visit Okayama, Onomichi and Hiroshima - at the time I had a JR Pass so that made sense.

Miyajima fits in with Hiroshima, and Naoshima with Takamatsu...

Basically as you said, you will be making a circle which certainly makes sense, not much backtracking for the south/west portion.

As someotherguy said, the Five Lakes area should work for Fujisan - in all my visits I have only seen it from the train... except once from somewhere south of Kamakura on the coast with friends in their car....

Thank you for these very helpful and encouraging replies.

My apologies, kja, for being unclear: yes, I have 35 days in Japan, of which I will spend the first 6ish in Kyoto and the last 4ish based in Tokyo. I am now planning the middle 24-ish.

So many excellent suggestions. I had not thought of basing in Hiroshima or Onomichi for more than a couple of nights, but that might make very good sense, especially if I have a regional rail pass. Hmmm.

I have budgeted for a couple of splurges, one of which is to be an overnight on Koya-san. Thank you for the recommendation for which temple to use. As for a royokan, I would love to spend a night at a reasonably priced one, but as you note, it is hard to find ones that will take solo travelers.

I am a bit concerned about the northern leg (Kanazawa, Takeyama, etc) in late March -- will weather cooperate? or will I still dealing with snow? More to research.

I will come back in a week or two with a more detailed itinerary -- and probably lots of questions about rail passes, etc.

Yesterday in my local fish market I struck up a conversation with a gentleman about the preparation of fresh mackerel. I suggested grilling; he said that he does a Japanese style prep...and that he and his wife had been to Japan 12 times and are now planning their next trip.

Japan seems to be rather addictive!

One more thing -- and I apologize again for being unclear. The WW2 history that interests me is social and political history -- for example, the impact of the war on civilians populations -- rather than military history (battles and such).

I found the Documentation Center in Nuremburg -- which focuses on the context of the 3rd Reich and the events leading up to WW2 rather than on the war itself -- fascinating.

Thus Hiroshima is of great interest. Suggestions for other sites or museums which document social history would be greatly appreciated.

Your basic plan looks good. So many possibilities in south west region.
Much good advice from forum members above.

Last May we visited Shimane, Matsue, Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine other sights in this area as well as Kanazawa and Tokyo.
One benefit will be if you get off the beaten track you will find yourself perhaps the only tourist at some shrines and attractions whereas Tokyo, Kyoto and Kanazawa will be packed. we like a little of both.

One resource I can give you is this blog contributors postings about various walking routes in the southern domains as well as Kyushu.
http://japanvisitor.blogspot.com/sea.../Jake%20Davies
Jake is an artist and craftsman who has documented his travels.
His other blog is More Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan, a nice resource.
http://ojisanjake.blogspot.com

As mentioned in other posts by forum members the History of Japan podcast gives a lot of background for your time in Japan
https://historyofjapan.wordpress.com
I'd consider Northern Kyushu and ferry transport options
Hope you have a great time

Depending on how you define “social” history, you might want to consider visiting the Edo-Tokyo Museum in Tokyo. Actually, you might want to visit it even if you don’t have a particular interest in history! ;-)

Meredydd,
I didn't see your last post before I had sent mine.
For the time period and subject you are interested in I would suggest you check out "Embracing Defeat" by John W Dower.
It won the Pulitzer Prize in 2000 and is a very moving work on that period of time in Japan.

Yes, weather could be an issue for the northern part.

Takayama, in the Hida region, really fits with everything in your CONTEXT paragraph, so you should consider a third night. (you could use x=1 for your Kiso Valley stop)

temples/shrines - Takayama Teramachi (temple town)
en.japantravel.com/gifu/takayama-s-teramachi-gifu/13893

historical Japan - Takayama Jinja and the old town

folk life villages - Hido no Sato, aka Hida Folk Village
You should also consider Shirakawago & Gokayama with a 1-nite stay in a gassho zukuri

walking and cycling - Takayama is a very walkable small city. There are hills to the east (higashiyama) and the Hida no Sato is on a hill but otherwise your interest area is flat. Am pretty sure that bike rental is available at the station. A walking course that includes the temple town is described here: www.japan-guide.com/e/e5906.html

inexpensive/street food - you will need a bowl of soup made with Takayama ramen.

I enjoy trains - the Takayama Line is scenic and enjoyable. You can travel from Takayama to Nakatsugawa in the Kiso Valley. One route is via Nagoya on limited express trains, but I think it would be more fun to take the limited express to Minoota and then locals from there via Tajimi to Nakatsugawa.

There's something of interest in the Minoota area that Mara might have visited.

traditional crafts - a crafts experience center is mentioned on this Hida no Sato page: www.japan-guide.com/e/e5901.html

A lot of the stuff sold in the old merchant street of Takayama is just typical Japanese souvenirs. But there is probably some nice local craftwork to be found there.
www.jnto.go.jp/eng/spot/histtown/oldtown.html

mrwunrful, you have a good memory!

I went from Nagoya to Magome where I did the hike to Tsumago. After staying overnight there I continued on to Gujo Hachiman for two nights, a cute small town imo, then on to Takayama....

I did take the local trains between Nakutsugawa and Gujo Hachiman via Minoota....