mad

Just returned from an amazing trip to the cape town area and 4 days at elephant plains lodge in the sabi sands.

2 days at 18 on Crox in the greenpoint section of cape town: not sure why this guesthouse gets little to no attention on fodors- it's beautiful. it's a 3 bedroom guesthouse located next door to David's. the hosts are extremely attentive and have great taste. the rooms are decorated to perfection and very comfortable/luxurious. the location is convenient and the price is reasonable- about $120 per night.

we did all the usual cape town visits while there- noteworthy was a wonderful, although a bit ultra-trendy dinner at Monolo- very different food- high end.

we drove down to simon's town via the longer route along the coast starting in camps bay- highly recommended drive. the views are spectacular. we spent the night at Boulder's Beach Lodge. the penguins live right in front of the hotel. we woke up at sunrise to see all of the penguins waddle into the ocean- amazing, particularly with no crowds this time of day. the rooms here are basic (request #15 for best view), the restaurant is excellent. the room was about $100 per night.

we drove down to cape point from here- saw many baboons and again the views are spectacular.

we were supposed to go for a shark dive leaving from simon's town the next morning. it was cancelled due to rough water. this should be noted, as I never understood that the trip could be cancelled, only that the viewing might not be great. it kind of messed things up for us, as after visiting cape point and driving through the whole area the day before, there was not much of interest for us to do. we ended up driving up to Franschoek a day early.

Franschoek- stayed at both Basse Provence and at Plumwood Inn. Basse Provence is a very quaint guesthouse about 3 minutes drive from town. It's beautiful, but we preferred the Plumwood Inn, which is just a one block walk into town. Both places had similar amenties, their styles just differ- basse provence more of a farmhouse, while the plumwood inn was more modern.

We had dinner at Reuben's our first night- best meal of our trip and very reasonably priced for Americans at least. We ate at Le Quartier Francais our second night and were not as impressed. We also had le Pique Nique at Boschandal, which is highly recommended. There's a restaurant in Stellenbosch at Spier, which we did not have a chance to get to, but it looked really fun and was recommended by our hosts at 18 on Crox. It's called Moyo and you can actually eat up in a tree! There's a cheetah outreach center there- you can pet the cheetahs for additional fee.

We went for a township tour on our last day in Cape Town. I was very hesitant to do a tour for many reasons. It should be noted that locals told us not to go, as they said it was not safe. we did not find this to be true at all, and felt that this opinion was based on ignorance. in fact, as it was explained to us by our guide, that the black townships are safer than downtown cape town, due to the reprecussions that a person would face by their community if they were to mug a tourist. we decided to do our tour with Africa Roots. It's was a group of 4 of us and there was a strong focus on community restoration. Having been to the townships in 1993, I found this tour to be very inspiring, as I could see that there is hope for this community that once seemed so hopeless (in my limited perspective at least). We visited several community projects and a pre-school- while perhaps it was intrusive, it did not feel that way- we stayed clear of where all of the tour buses visited, which was a relief.

Lastly, we spent 3 nights at Elephant Plains Lodge in the Sabi Sands (wish we had stayed an extra night). We took a charter on Federal Air, which was fun, but a bit unnerving, as our pilot was 21 years old and co-pilot even younger- eek! Anyway, they seemed competent and we survived! The lodge is nice, the food average, the rangers and trackers top notch and the game viewing incredible. We saw four of the big five within our first drive. Having been on safari in Kenya years ago, I can say that I had no idea what I had been missing. Being in a open air jeep and driving off road is an unbelievable experience. The animals, including the four leapords we saw, were in arms reach to us. At one point, we were completely surrounded by a herd of elephants. Apparently the animals are used to the jeeps and don't even acknowledge their existence. We also saw a lion and her cub (many lions have been killed in this area by a pack of male lions), we saw wild dogs, hyenas, giraffs, zebra, etc.

The big question I had before we stayed here, is why is it so much less expensive than other lodges in the area? I believe it's because it's family owned and nice, but not luxurious (although the more expensive rooms may be). We were in a full jeep (10 people) most of the time. It was not a big deal to be with a group this size. We still saw everything easily, did not feel cramped in the jeep. drinks were not included, and as mentioned earlier, the food is average (some people thought it was great). for $400 per night for the 2 of us, I would not hesitate to go back here. We were able to drive onto two or three other lodges property and did not feel that the game viewing was compromised in any way.

I would recommend talking to as many locals as possible. its a very complicated country and you'll be missing a great deal if you don't ask lots of questions.

I hope this information is helpful. We loved South Africa (my second time visiting) and I can't wait to plan my next trip there!

napamatt

Thanks for the report, I'm going back to CT next year for the first time since 99 and really looking forward to it.

OnlyMeOirish

Thanks for the report. We 'did' Cape Town in 2002 and as I am having severe Africa Withdrawal Symptom, hubby has been 'told' that it's Africa next year, no if's, buts, or maybes and because it will have to be a malaria free safari Cape Town will be in the mix somewhere so thank you very much for your review!
Imelda

atravelynn

Some great tidbits in your report. The Boulders Bay Lodge comments were helpful. What a sight the penguins entering the ocean must have been. I was told Boulder's Bay was far away from everything. Do you think it would be inconvenient to stay there without a car?

I've been waiting for an Elephant Plains report. Appears to have excellent game viewing. And you asked the question I wanted to know. Why is it less expensive? You also provided the answer. Not excessively fancy and more people per vehicle. Can you tell me how the 10 fit in? Was it a bigger jeep? I'm thinking 1 guest in front and 3 rows of 3 and a driver.

If you can recall, how long were your drives?

Thanks so much for the great report. Any details yet on what Trip #3 wil entail?

mad

To answer your questions- there's not much to do at Boulders Beach other than to see the penguins. I think you'll feel pretty limited there without a car. The driving is very good and we got a great rate for $25 per day for our car (on expedia.com), so I'd recommend it if possible. There is a train that goes there, but I don't know the details.
As for your Elephant Plains questions- you're exactly right about the jeep. It's a pretty big Landrover with four rows of seats- driver and 1 passenger and then 3 rows of 3. It's very spacious and comfortable. The drives are from 5:30- 8:30 a.m., a bush walk from 9:30- 10:15 a.m. and then another game drive from 4:00-7:00 p.m.. Your afternoon is essentially free, as it's too hot to be out. We used this time to nap and relax by the pool- it was wonderful!
If we were to go back again, I think we'd come at a different time of year to see the whales at Hermanus and to try for a shark dive again- I wouldn't hesitate to return to Elephant Plains .

Femi

Thanks for the report. Cape town is moving higher up myh list.

jaspertl

thanks so much for posting about elephant plains...it's the best price around and I was wondering the same things...why so reasonable.

Can you tell me how far in advance you booked Elephant plains and what room location you liked best?

thanks again!!!!

mad

We booked about 3 months in advance and I didn't get my first choice of dates. In terms of room location- all of the more expensive suites are in the best location, closest to the main lodge. If you're getting a standard room, I liked ours best, room 5- it was right next to the spa, with a good view of the plains and close to the pool. Really, there aren't that many standard rooms, and they're all relatively close to one another, so location isn't that big of a deal.

jcasale

We were in room 5 also and I have to concur with you that it is the best. I LOVED Elephant Plains. I was surprised that you commented on it being more expensive than others in the area. We actually stayed in it because I really wanted to be in Sabi Sands (I had read in several places that the game viewing was superior and it was) but most of the places in Sabi Sands were out of our budget. Our travel agent suggested Elephant Plains because it was a little less expensive than others.

I'm wondering who your guide was. We had Gabriel and he was fabulous (plus being very easy on the eye ;-)!) I still get a lot of joy from looking at all of the pictures we took there of the leopards, cheetahs, elephants, etc. I would stay there again in a heartbeat.

Wish I'd known about the Boulders Bay Lodge. I loved seeing the penguins for the brief time we stopped there and would have loved to spend more time wiht them. Maybe next trip !

Thanks for your report and bringing back wonderful memories on a very cold, dreary, stressful day.

atravelynn

Thanks again Mad. Are there any restaurants near Boulders Bay?

Jscale, I recall your report on Elephant Plains from some time ago. I also recall your profession from some other post so I can understand why you might have a stressful day.

Elephant Plains was recommended to me by a travel agent I met in Africa as all the game without the price. It seems to be a great option.

jcasale

Good memory, atravelynn! Wow. That trip was almost 2 years ago now. And yes, as a high school guidance counselor - the job can be stressful. This summer we are not taking a big trip, just spending the entire summer at our vacation home in Maine and much as I will miss going someplace new, the rest will be much needed !

As for restaurants near Boulders Bay, we had lunch in a great restaurant right on the dock/waterfront there. I don't recall the name of it, but it had a great location and the food was really good (and reasonable). They had both outdoor and indoor dining available.

mad

That's so funny you were in the same room at Elephant Plains! I think you misread what I wrote about the price at Elephant Plains. It's by far the least expensive lodge in Sabi Sands, as far as I know. I was initially concerned before we got there, as I wasn't clear on why it was so inexpensive. We loved it and I can't imagine paying so much more for the same game viewing (at least that's what I was told).

As for Boulder's Beach restaurants. We were only there for one night and ate at our hotel- the Boulder's Beach Lodge. They have a nice porch overlooking the ocean and penguins. The food was excellent and well priced, but the service was slow.

mad

oh, I forgot to answer your question re: our guide. Gabriel wasn't there. Monore was our guide (i think I'm hacking his name)Prince was our tracker- perhaps he was there when you visited? I can't remember the other trackers name, but he actually smelled leopard urine at one point and tracked her down!

jcasale

Small world indeed. Yes, I did misread what you wrote. Our travel agent was a little nervous about recommending Elephant Plains because it was much more inexpensive and she had never had anyone stay there. But as soon as we got home, I told her to add it to her list of places to put people. I couldn't think of a better way to experience Africa. Anbd the service couldn't have been better. I accidentally left one of the memory cards for our camera in the room safe (it was tucked in the corner and I missed it). I didn't discover it until we got to Jo'burg prior to leaving the country for Zimbabwe. I called Elephant Plains and asked them to check for it and if they found it to mail it to me. When I got home it was waiting for me !

Prince was our tracker also! Definitely a small world. He was fabulous, too. Very knowledgeable and incerdibly nice. I have very fond memories of both of them.

atravelynn

Things like sending the memory card are very important. To me that's more important than a fancy room.

Not to belabor this point, but if I have no car (I'm not going to drive alone on the side I'm not used to), do taxis or something similar go to Boulders Bay? If penguins are of great interest, could you spend half the day just hanging around Boulders Bay and the penguins? Thanks!

I've seen an Elephant Plains and Mashatu combo advocated as an answer to the high cost of safaris. That's a thought!

mad

I'm really not sure what to tell you about getting to Boulder's Beach via taxi. Since we did rent a car, I just don't know what else is out there for transportation. I'd recommend trying to find a tour that goes down to Cape Point and stops to see the penguins along the way (if this is possible). In my opinion, it's really not worth it to drive all the way down to Boulder's Beach just to see the penguins. We spent time there only because we were planning on doing a shark dive. I know they have kayak trips from Simon's Town to see the penguins, if that's something you enjoy. Also, just to make sure you realize, Boulder's Beach is not in Simon's Town, it's a few miles down the road.

atravelynn

Thanks mad!

annhig

hi, travellynn,

I have just purchased through amazon a litle book called "walk and eat in Cape Town" published by sunflower books - it's particularly useful for people without access to a hire car and gives all the transport links. It suggests getting the train to simonstown [there is a special tourist one called the "biggsy restaurant train"] and walking to boulders- 3km each way. It also has a very useful inside flap with loads of phone nos - such as the Rikki taxis [a sort of taxi/minibus service] that rund both in CPT and Simonstown.

The book was about £7 ie U$14.

hope this is helpful!

regards, ann

jcasale

Mad - another commonality, but I we went a different direction. When my husband heard you could dive with great white sharks in South Africa he decided we should do it. We ended up going out of Gaansbai with Great White Ecoventures. They were great and it gave us a chance to see some of the countryside as we drove out there. My parents (in there 70's) elected to stay on the baot rather than go inthe cage, but both dh and I went in (I went in a second time). Very cool!!! Got some great pics of the ones we saw. It impresses the kids when they come into my office !

Atravelynn, we went to Boulder's Beach as part of our tour to the Cape. We hit it on our way back - had lunch there and then walked over to visit the penguins. That was pretty good way to do it. I can't remember the company our agent booked us with. Since there were four of us we had a private tour and we able to spend a little more time on what we wanted (we ended up with only a few minutes at the gardens at the end of the day - fine by me since we had just been in Rio which has a fabulous botanical garden). I can try to find out who she used if you would like me to. Our guide was fabulous. we asked him how many languages he spoke and he said "Four - English, Afrikaans, Zulu, and BS ;-)"!

atravelynn

Thanks for the help. I'll be in Simonstown for several days for Great White Shark visits and was deciding where to stay before/after the sharks. If the Rikki taxis go to Boulders I would be happy to use them.