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Old Mar 3rd, 2005, 10:23 PM
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Tanzania Itinerary in June/July--requesting feedback

We’ve planned a trip to Tanzania for late June/early July of this year, using Africa Adventure Company as our tour operator. We originally had an itinerary planned out, however AAC said they couldn’t get it all worked out because most of the properties we wanted to stay in were completely booked in July/August. We revised the timeframe, the order of visitation and the properties. I was happy with our trip until I read a lot of the postings here which raised several red flags in my mind. Perhaps if I post my itinerary and some of my concerns, someone might give me some feedback?

Day 1 & 2 Fly into Nairobi -- Karen Blixen Coffee Garden & Cottages (once we recover from jetlag, is there anything close by to see on Day 2)?
Day 3 Fly into Kilimanjaro -- Arusha Coffee Lodge. Not too sure what to do with ourselves, but we couldn’t seem to catch a flight on to Serengeti this day. Any ideas?
Day 4 & 5 Fly to Serengeti -- Migration Camp (arrive in time for lunch). Looks like this is a little off the beaten path, which I like. But, I read postings that this camp was in the process of being refurbished? and, additionally, was severely damaged by fire? Anybody have any updates?
Day 6 & 7 Mobile Tent Camp in the Serengeti (really looking forward to this!)
Day 8 Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp in the Serengeti. We are staying here so we can do a balloon ride in the morning. Does anyone know about this camp? I wasn’t able to find out much about it.
Day 9 & 10 Ngorongoro Crater -- Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. In some postings I read you were limited to 1/2 day drives into the crater. Yet my itinerary clearly states a morning and afternoon drive into the crater on Day 10. Does anyone have any clarification of this? Any comments about this lodge? Besides the crater and Olduvai Gorge, is there anything else that is a “must see”? We were warned off of visiting Engaruka...
Day 11 Gibbs Farm. I hear the food is fabulous.
Day 12 & 13 Tarangire National Park -- Tarangire Treetops. I was thinking this was going to be one of the nicer properties we were going to stay at until I read in a posting here that it was under new management and that people were not happy with management as well as the facilities. Any current word on this?
Day 14 Arusha --Mountain Village. We are staying here so we can catch a morning flight tomorrow. Again, another day to fill in. Any ideas on possible sights to see?
Day 15, 16, & 17 Fly to Mahale Mountain Park --Flycatchers Tented Camp. We are very excited about this part of the trip, we just wish it could have been longer. We don’t know much about Flycatchers, so if anyone knows anything about them we would appreciate hearing about it. We weren’t able to get into Greystoke, which was the BIGGEST reason our whole trip was turned upside down.
Day 18, 19, 20 & 21 Fly to Arusha and drive to Mt Kilimanjaro -- Ndarakwai Ranch. I think this place has a lot of variety in the things to see and do. But I would love to hear from anyone who has experienced this property!
Day 22 Drive to Arusha -- Mountain Village. This is our last night in Tanzania. We are hoping to do a little shopping around Arusha. Does anyone have any guidance in this direction?
Day 23 Fly to Nairobi and then home......is it really over already?

Well, there it is. Any comments or suggestions would be very much appreciated!
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Old Mar 4th, 2005, 04:31 AM
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Hi Wendy

Just an off-the-wall comment from someone who has not been to Greystoke (yet) but a friend stayed there about 3 weeks ago and was blown away by the whole experience. As this is the cornerstone of your trip, have you considered adjusting the rest of your itinerary around the availability at Greystoke? Are they full throughout July/Aug?

Have you tried local outfitters such as Roys or Albatros (who arranged my friend's visit)?
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Old Mar 4th, 2005, 04:49 AM
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Wendy - I can comment on some of your itinerary, and hopefully others with have input as well.

Day 1 & 2 Fly into Nairobi -- Karen Blixen Coffee Garden & Cottages - You'll be arriving in the evening I suppose, so you'll get your sleep. Next day early you can go into NBO and visit the Daphne Sheldrik Ellee Trust for 11am - orphaned ellees, interesting. You can visit the Museum, have lunch at the Carnivore, do shopping in the afternoon, on return to Karen, a stop at the Giraffe Center which is close to where you're staying.

Day 3 Fly into Kilimanjaro -- Arusha Coffee Lodge. Not too sure what to do with ourselves, but we couldn’t seem to catch a flight on to Serengeti this day. Any ideas? - Your flight from Wilson in Nairobi arrives at Kili at 1:20pm. There is a departing flight to the Serengeti at 2pm. So unless that 2pm flight is fully booked, there is a connection.

Day 4 & 5 Fly to Serengeti -- Migration Camp (arrive in time for lunch). Looks like this is a little off the beaten path, which I like. But, I read postings that this camp was in the process of being refurbished? and, additionally, was severely damaged by fire? Anybody have any updates? - While this location is not necessarily ideal, it is a lovely tented camp. The fire was last year when it was being remodelled, has been operating since last October '04. An alternative and more ideal for the time, would to be in the Western Serengeti. However, there are few options here - Grumeti River and Kirawira in same category as Migration - expensive, but Kirawira doesn't raise prices till July. An option here in the moderate range is Mbalageti Camp.

Day 6 & 7 Mobile Tent Camp in the Serengeti (really looking forward to this!) - this is OK and should be interesting and fun.

Day 8 Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp in the Serengeti. We are staying here so we can do a balloon ride in the morning. Does anyone know about this camp? I wasn’t able to find out much about it. - The last reviews on this camp weren't very good. Plans were underway to refurbish, but don't know if this was done and whether it is an improvement. There was also a complaint that the food was terrible. If for 1-nt only, try for Serena Lodge or some other in the Seronera area, if only the balloon ride is of interest.

Day 9 & 10 Ngorongoro Crater -- Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. In some postings I read you were limited to 1/2 day drives into the crater. Yet my itinerary clearly states a morning and afternoon drive into the crater on Day 10. Does anyone have any clarification of this? Any comments about this lodge? Besides the crater and Olduvai Gorge, is there anything else that is a “must see”? We were warned off of visiting Engaruka... - Yes, as July 1, only half-day tours will be permitted here, but what some people are arranging is to do an afternoon Crater tour on the first day, then a morning half-day the following day.. then you can continue on your way. The Sopa lodge has large rooms and is situated closest to access road into the Crater. You'll be fine here.

Day 11 Gibbs Farm. I hear the food is fabulous. - Having had only 1-nt at the Crater and after morning crater tour (as noted above), head here for overnight and a relaxing day after being in the Serengeti.

Day 12 & 13 Tarangire National Park -- Tarangire Treetops. I was thinking this was going to be one of the nicer properties we were going to stay at until I read in a posting here that it was under new management and that people were not happy with management as well as the facilities. Any current word on this? - Most places in East Africa change ownership regularly... not unusual. But the refurbishing has been done and some recent, but brief comments were positive. I would try for an extra night here as it's a beautiful park and a mini-migration will be in progress while you're visiting.

Day 14 Arusha --Mountain Village. We are staying here so we can catch a morning flight tomorrow. Again, another day to fill in. Any ideas on possible sights to see? - After morning game drive at Tarangire, your drive to Arusha will get you here in time for lunch. You can ask for a Cultural tour (a few hours), you can do some shopping, and before you know it's time for dinner. Remember the daylight hours are only between 6:30am - 6:30pm - you're on the Equator, it's not like back in the States with lots of daylight hours.

Day 15, 16, & 17 Fly to Mahale Mountain Park --Flycatchers Tented Camp. We are very excited about this part of the trip, we just wish it could have been longer. We don’t know much about Flycatchers, so if anyone knows anything about them we would appreciate hearing about it. We weren’t able to get into Greystoke, which was the BIGGEST reason our whole trip was turned upside down. - Only am familiar with Greystoke, so cannot comment on Flycatchers; I do wish you could spend a 4th day here. It should be quite an adventure.

Day 18, 19, 20 & 21 Fly to Arusha and drive to Mt Kilimanjaro -- Ndarakwai Ranch. I think this place has a lot of variety in the things to see and do. But I would love to hear from anyone who has experienced this property! - Again, not familiar with this property and activities, but 4-days is alot of time. My suggestion, since you are departing for home from Nairobi, I'd skip this altogether and return to NBO, hopefully on the 1:45pm flight and connect to 3pm flight to the Mara. While the wildebeest herds might not have arrived yet (though some may), the Mara is always interesting and a definite favorite. It would be a shame to have come so far and not visited here. Of course, depending on when flight arrives from Mahale will determine whether you can make the 1:45pm flight to NBO. If not then overnight in Arusha and catch the earliest flight to NBO next morning and connect to the 10am flight to the Mara. I'd definitely prefer to spend the 4-days in the Mara. Because this is a busy time, space may be limited and it's possible you have to do 2-days each at different lodge/camps - but for me the Mara would be it. Then you can fly back to NBO either at 11am or 4pm for your later homebound flight.

Just suggestions - let's see what others can offer.

 
Old Mar 4th, 2005, 05:39 AM
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My initial reaction is aren't you trying to do too much. 23 days on a safari will definitely lead to safari fatigue. By end of second week with so much movement you could be wishing you were flying home.

Also I don't see any need to spend 2 nights in Nairobi. Maximise your game-viewing instead. If you fly Kenya Airways you will arrive in the morning and can fly straight off to a game reserve. As Serengeti flight is a problem I suggest go to Masai Mara first and spend 4 nights there.

My programme would be:
4nights Masai Mara with Balloon in Mara
3nights Serengeti at Migration Camp or Mobile Camp
2nights Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge
3nights Tarangire or Katavi (will provide you with a similar experience to mobile tented camp in a remote park)
3nights Greystoke (I am not sure why it is unavailable)
Fly back to Nairobi and perhaps spend a final night there to catch your breath back.

There are lots of possibilities but my basic point is that you should trim your schedule and make it more relaxed so that you can appreciate each area better.

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Old Mar 4th, 2005, 06:36 AM
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King, as usual, has some good suggestions. And I would like to add, and agree, that if you're flying all the way to Mahale, including Katavi is perfect. These parks are next to one another and often combined in an itinerary, though there is travel between both - by air or water. And based on the suggestions King made (besides that with the exception of flying to/fr Mahale, you'll be on road most of your safari) why not end your safari with some relaxation.

There are some wonderful beach resorts off the coast of both countries. From Mahale you can fly to Dar-es-Salaam and from here fly to and enjoy Zanzibar or the sister island of Pemba, or Mnembe Island/Resort; if divers, Mafia Island is excellent and there is excellent diving at Pemba. From this area you can return fly to NBO for a day if you wish - there's enough to keep you busy for a day, then depart for home.
 
Old Mar 4th, 2005, 06:37 AM
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Hi Wendy- As relates to the migration, June/July is when the animals are moving from the Serengeti to the Mara. All of the camps in the Western and Northern Serengeti are booked, some as much as a year ahead. The migration camp is the best situated for this late in the season as the Wildebeests pass right through it. I don't believe you would have any hope for this year unless you go in November/December when the animals come back from the Mara to return to the Serengeti. It may even be tight for that time. This includes all of the flights from and to Arusha. Migration Camp has been completed and enlarged and a couple of Fodorites have visited it and posted trip reports about the area. Sounds very nice.
I've been trying for a few years to catch the migration in the southern area and will be leaving in a few days to do just that. The best time would have been early February, but by the time I had the airline tickets, it was all booked up. That area finishes their booking as early at August/September of the previous year for the Jan/Feb/Mar season.
There are very few camps and camp sites in the Serengeti to take care of the hordes of people who want to see this spectacle. For the last few years, since 9/11, Americans have not travelled in great numbers to this area and this year they are all back and trying to get in. Its a real headache for the bookers. Roy Safaris has had about the busiest year in a long time and has turned away business because the camps booked so early. I tried them last year and they were sorry but everything was booked. In January I tried again and they were able to get me in.
This only relates to the migratory route. I don't know about the other areas of your inquiry. Good luck.
I think King made some very good suggestions, to start in Kenya. There are more camps there, and of course more tourists, but that is just a part of the experience to see the migration. It IS worth it.
Oh, I just read your questions again and will add that both Nairobi and Arusha have beautiful game parks located close to the city. The Nairobi National Park you could easily spend a day and they have lions and other animals. It is wonderful.
The Arusha National Park (I believe that is the name), is not often visited by tourists and it is also a very good game park. Very close in. Hope this helps in your planning. Liz
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Old Mar 5th, 2005, 05:51 PM
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Good evening Wendy! You have quite an adventure ahead of you. And, you have already received quite a bit of great info from persons who I have learned a lot. As others have mentioned the wildebeast migration is difficult to predict months ahead of time. In June of 2002 we were in the midst of it during our visit to the Serengeti (staying at the Sopa). Last year practically to the day we missed the main herds but local ones were still present. But, we still saw plenty of game including many elephants, giraffe, lions, etc.
Just a comment as to shopping in the Arusha area. On both trips we hit the Heritage Culture Center on the outskirts of town while enroute to Tarangire/Manyara/Serengeti etc. The place has a great variety of items incluiding precious stones, batik, carvings, pottery, etc. And, if I recall the prices were certainly better than that found in the lodges and numerous other places. Since our trips in Tanzania originated and ended in Arusha we were able to stop both ways. That gave us opportunity to get a feeling for prices when we were at lodges and local craft stands. One could easily spend a couple of hours there and although we did not take advantage of it, various cultural exhibits and activites were there as well. My notes indicate credit cards were accepted but with a 5 percent surcharge. International shipping was also available.
We did venture into downtown Arusha for a bit of shopping but were simply overwhelmed by street venders before we could get into stores. Obviously, we stood out as tourists and constantly had well meaning salespeople literally "in our faces". Having experienced similar situations in Egypt and Israel I thought I was ready for it but could not relax. Never felt threatened but I could tell my wife and teenage daughter were not comfortable. Thus, despite our guide's best intent we checked out a couple of stores and headed for lunch. Have a great trip! Dick
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Old Mar 15th, 2005, 10:27 PM
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Greetings to all who responded to my posting! Thank you all for your comments; they certainly give me a lot to think over.

In response to climbhighsleeplow, we desperately tried to get into Greystokes at anytime during June/July/August and they were unavailable. We tried to get in for four nights, but were unable to get a flight except for the three nights. (Our budget wouldn't allow a charter flight).

Sandi, thanks for the critique and tips on our itinerary. I will look into these suggestions.

King, your ideas and suggestions are helpful, too. Katavi was something we did look into when we decided on the Mahale's. However, again, our budget couldn't accommodate both, so we narrowed it back to only the Mahale Mtns. As to the length of the trip, our little merry band of five are pretty used to travelling for 3-4 weeks at a time. But maybe you are right about safari's being a little more fatiguing. We're travelling with our two teenage sons and as they are about to enter high school, this may be the last BIG trip we take with them (except to look at colleges!) so we were trying to really cover a broad variety of scenery at a pace they would enjoy. (But as adults, we probably would like a more leisurely itinerary!) But Masai Mari is a great idea.

Liz_Snyder, your explanation of the booking process for the migration seems to be the problem we ran into. We started planning and researching in early September. By the time our two families agreed on the places we wanted to visit (end of Oct/early Nov)the tour operator said he couldn't manage to book it for us for July and August -- everything was sold out. That's when we started looking at June and July and had to really change things around and sacrifice the itinerary we had hoped for. Even with this, we were told we barely got into several of the properties.

And to rsnyder, thank you for the Arusha shopping tips. I'm sure we will be looking for our share of treasures to bring home as mementos of our trip and gifts for family and friends. This helps a lot!

I really thank all of you for taking the time to look our itinerary over and passing along your suggestions. You all seem to have traveled extensively in this area of the world. I'm going to try to modify our trip based on your suggestions. Hopefully we won't be stonewalled by the tour operator!

Oh, one last note...we thought the Ndarakwai Ranch would be a nice addition to the trip because of the types of activities available. They can do walking safaris or mountain hikes, day and night game drives and horseback ridng safaris, as well as many cultural activities. And it's only for three full days (four nights). But maybe if I can get into Kenya instead...

Again, thank you all for your information and comments.

Wendy
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Old Mar 29th, 2005, 03:00 PM
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<We tried to get in for four nights, but were unable to get a flight except for the three nights. (Our budget wouldn't allow a charter flight).>

Wendy,
I just noticed this comment from your earlier post. I was under the impression that charter flights were the only option to Mahale. If there are alternatives, please enlighten me
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Old Apr 4th, 2005, 11:51 PM
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Mbuzi Mawe is a great tented camp North of Seronera in the Serengeti - great location among some rocky outcrops. The camp has been recently rebuilt and refurbished - basically it is now a new camp! The management will be taken over by the Serena Hotel chain so will be very well run and managed. It is a deluxe property - I would say 4 star plus. Well worth a visit a great place to stay in the Serengeti!
Ngorongoro crater - the crater tours here are usually a day long - we went down early in the morning and were back at the lodge at around 1530. I suppose some places do mornings and afternoons but the day trip we did was great with a picnic lunch. Plenty of time to see the wonderful wildlife.
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Old Apr 6th, 2005, 12:11 AM
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Try www.safari-consultants.co.uk
They worked some amazing things for me when the run of the mill agents failed. They turned me on to places (this is in the'80's)that noone else was recommending or better yet aware of. Sand River in the Selous, Cottars Camp in the Mara b4 they lost their old concession. I was there when at a time our game drive started at the gate and everyone finally said its time to go back to the barn, we saw so much wildlife at nite. Another time some friends wanted to go and join for part of the trip, and tried to book with a couple different companies(budget restraints) and they couldn't do it. Safari Consultants got it done.They've been at it over 20 years.There itinerary just seems to be better and the camp guides superb.I think one of the owners is an East African with personal ties to some of the operators.
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Old May 11th, 2005, 06:28 AM
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has anyone visited mbuzi mawe since it has been rebuilt or renovated and taken over by Serena Hotels. we are due to visit there in July 2005. Comments welcomed. Thank you
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Old May 11th, 2005, 10:57 AM
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First of all, I am so jealous. You are going to have a truly great time. East Africa is the greatest place I have ever been and every other vacation has paled in comparison. I really only have two comments about your schedule. I think you will be disappointed with the balloon ride. Everyone who I have spoken with wished they had used that money differently (myself included). The view is nice but the sound of the balloon generally scares the animals so they just run off. Secondly, Tarangire National Park is going to be a big letdown after the Serengeti and Ngorngoro Crater. Those are truly the two most amazing places on earth and the Tarangire park (while very lovely) doesnt offer the plant or animals species that the other parks do. You could easily skip the Tarangire National Park. It all depends on what you are going to Africa to see. Good luck and have fun. Can't wait to return.
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Old May 11th, 2005, 04:27 PM
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I agree with syclark on the jealousy isse, Tarangire, as well as the balloons. But a previous post explored ballooning at great length and I believe I was outnumbered by balloon enthusiasts.

Here is the title and link:
Balloon rides/worth it?
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34566261
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Old Oct 31st, 2006, 06:23 PM
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Hi Wendy,
Did you ever use Flycatchers in Mahale?
thanks
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