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South Africa with family - many questions

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South Africa with family - many questions

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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 07:45 PM
  #21  
 
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Good idea, Craig, to book Botswana first to save money if the trip starts early enough. Don’t prices change June 16?

I’m pleased to see that your comments regarding the different agents, from your perspective as an industry peer, are the exact impressions I have had on my end. Right down to the words you use to describe each.

Just out of curiosity, who is the 3rd Condé Nast safari specialist award winner, since you mentioned the other two award winners?

I know Bruce and family were not looking at other parks in South Africa besides Kruger, but I agree Phinda is a good choice with kids (or without kids.) Don’t know about availability though. When I was checking for late June about 6 months ago, things were tight for just one guest within my timeframe, even when I was flexible with accommodations.

This might be something for another thread, but since you mentioned Ultimate Africa, I’ll state what has concerned me about them. If a potential client is considering booking Kenya with them, they don’t do Kenya. That’s fine, some companies specialize in only Southern Africa or just Tanzania or just Uganda/Rwanda or whatever. But here is what their site says, and has for several years.

“Due to quality (declining wildlife) and safety concerns (US travel warning) Ultimate Africa is not entertaining new bookings to Kenya at this time.”

With the recent articles about the Mara’s decline and the possible zoo there, one might say Ultimate Africa is prophetic and right on the money. But even so, Kenya has some of the most wildlife and greatest diversity of wildlife at the <u>lowest cost for the tourist</u> of anywhere in Africa in which a guided/escorted safari is undertaken. Granted, if you want seclusion and nobody else looking at the wildlife with you, Kenya may not be the place for you. At least not at the low cost.

It just seems like a decision to not book Kenya is taken one step further to denigrate the whole country, thereby bolstering the destinations Ultimate Africa does serve. Upon reading their declaration about Kenya, my thought was, “So the margins for Kenya are not to their liking and they explain their business decision not to book Kenya as a safety and quality control issue.”

Wasn’t there just a comment on one of the threads about some agents promoting locations for personal/corporate gain? The negative Kenya stuff on the Ultimate Africa site has always smacked of that to me.

If this is just me being too cynical and I am all wrong, I’d like to know. I have nothing against Ultimate Africa and am not trying to stir anything up. I just like to find out the truth and thought this was could be an opportunity.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 09:11 PM
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Just a note, that June-July is not whale season in Hermanus, only later, end Aug early Septembet is when they arrive.
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Old Apr 26th, 2009, 09:23 PM
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Re Conde Nast recommendations.
In 2005 at the recommendation of Conde Nast we went (4 nights) to Khwai River Lodge, Botswana. It was ok, just ok, KRL now is in the bottom half of my list of safari camps. I haven't given Conde Nast another look for safari camps. Not that they get it ALL wrong, it's that their "batting average" is not high enough.

regards - tom
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 07:20 AM
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Atravelynn - The third "expert" is Phoebe Weinberg in Grosse Pointe MI. She was close friends with my late mother for at least 25 years. Phoebe has a great business she is turning over slowly to her daughter. I have met Phoebe on several occasions and she does flawless work.

girl_from_africa - My mother's sister lives in Hermanus and I get a whale report each year. They have shown-up as early as June 15. I have personally seen whales in June in Hermanus. You are correct that only August and Septemeber visits guarantee sightings.

Tom - Conde Nast lodge ratings, along with travel agents/tour operatator recomendations, should be taken with a grain of salt.

Ultimate Africa & Kenya - I have no ideas why Ian does not book Kenya. It's a great safari destination. I spent ten years in the Navy as a submarine officer. I reconnected with many of my classmates from the Naval Academy and former submarine shipmates when I joined Facebook. A lot of my contacts from these two groups get sent to Djabuti when they get "called up" in the reserves. I have booked several one week safaris to Kenya this year for these people on R&R. They have great experiences and the price is MUCH lower than anything in Botswana. Basically, I agree with you. Kenya is not for everyone but it is great RELATIVE value.

Craig
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 11:25 AM
  #25  
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Craig, Lynn, Robin, Girl from Africa, & everyone else, thanks so much for your generous advice. We now officially have far, far more great ideas than days, which of course is a great situation to be in, and I will make sure we cull the list so we aren't too rushed.

We will spend at our first week (maybe a little more) in and around Cape Town. Activities will include a township tour (Robin, yes, I'd love your trip report, and I'm curious whether you looked at walking tours), a nonprofit tour (mistypopper's suggestion of uthandosa looks great), hiking up Lion's Head & Table Mountain (if weather permits), Robben Island, sharks, penguins, and baboons.

Then I'm looking into a supported 3-night hike in the Cederberg Wilderness Area (thanks again, Misty!) -- any thoughts on whether this would be good for reasonably strong 10/11 year olds?

Then we'll probably fly to Maun and visit, at minimum, the Okavango Delta, Chobe National Park, and Victoria Falls before flying back to Jo'burg for a brief stay (including a visit to the Apartheid Museum) and flying home. We're also looking into the Tsodilo Hills in Botswana but probably won't have time for both that and Cederberg (any suggestions on which is more amazing?).

I don't think we'll make it to Kruger, although it is awfully tempting with Girl from Africa's lunch invitation (THANK YOU!) so you never know.

I am looking for a tour operator to organize the Botswana portion; I am inclined to think that we can organize ZA and Vic Falls ourselves. Craig, I will email you to see if you could help us (I appreciate the fact that you avoid soliciting business on these forums).

Meanwhile I continue to welcome suggestions, including critiques of what I just wrote. Thanks again!
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 07:44 PM
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Hi Bruce! I just need your email address and then I will send you that trip report for the township visit. Robin
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 09:17 PM
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Robin - please send to bruce at burger dot net. Thanks!
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Old Apr 27th, 2009, 09:25 PM
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Thanks again to all you amazing experts. Here is our tentative itinerary. We fly into Cape Town on June 16 and out of Johannesburg on July 15.

Day 1 (first full day) – Hang out in Cape Town and recover from jet lag. (Remember, we have 9 and 11 year old kids!)

Days 2-8: Cape Town and peninsula. Each day we’ll do one of the following:
- Township tour (Inkululeko Tours or a Township Music Tour) combined with staying overnight in a township B&B
- Trip to NGOs organized by Uthando (these seem to be done with integrity; any comments?)
- Boulder Bay penguins and Baboon Matters walk
- Shark cage diving half-day trip (we might stay overnight in Simonstown between this and the previous day)
- Robben Island
- Climb Table Mountain
- Climb Lions Head
Obviously some of this is weather-permitting. And there will be extra hours on many days that we can devote to miscellaneous Cape Town attractions.

Days 9-12: Supported hike along the Klein Krakadouw Trail in the Cederberg Wilderness Area, including driving to and from there.

Day 13: Fly Cape Town – Jo’burg – Maun

Days 14-19: Okavango Delta, possibly split between Xakanaxa, the inner delta, and Khwai. I’m still working on details, leaning toward a supported camping trip here and in Chobe.

Day 20: Fly to Kisane and stay at Chobe Riverfront.

Days 21-23: Chobe National Park. On last day, drive to Victoria Falls.

Day 24: Victoria Falls.

Day 25: Fly to Jo’burg.

Day 26: Apartheid Museum and other things TBD.

Day 27: Fly home

We actually have 2 additional days, which we are considering devoting to the following:
- Add a 2-day trip to the Tsodilo Hills. In order to fit this in (and not subject the kids to long drives), we’d probably fly in and out. I’m thinking that our hikes in Cederberg will be somewhat (though not entirely) similar, easier, and less expensive.
- Spend another day or two in and around Cape Town. That gives us some flexibility if plans change due to weather, illness, discoveries, invitations, etc.
- Drive from the Okavango Delta through Chobe, stopping for a night or two in Savuti.
- Do some of the myriad activities around Vic Falls beyond just seeing the falls.
- Take a Soweto tour and do other things in and around Jo’burg.

What would you change? What would you do with those 2 additional days?

A few people have asked about budget. I am cheap. But I am willing to pay what I need to for these experiences, and I know some of them are expensive.

Bruce
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Old Apr 30th, 2009, 06:17 PM
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Hi Bruce! I have just emailed the township tour report to you. Robin
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Old May 9th, 2009, 09:37 PM
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WOW! What a great trip you have planned.

My family of 3 (daughter will be almost 11 when we go in late Sept - late Oct). We're flying into JNB, picking up a car, driving to Swaziland for 2 nights (Foresters Arms), then on to Phinda Mountain Lodge for 2 nights, then Durban for 2 nights (hubby is hoping to go shark diving sans cage). We fly to Cape Town for 7 nights (I'm supposed to be attending a conference, but there is just so much I want to see and do!), the 2 nights Hermanus, 2 nights Frnaschhoek, 2 nights Stellenbosch (we like our wine and I'm placating the kid with horseback riding and visiting the cheetahs at Spier). Then we fly to Nelspruit (gril from africa we love avacados!), finally ending our trip with 3 nights at MalaMala. I've gotten more great ideas from reading this post.
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Old Apr 20th, 2010, 10:06 AM
  #31  
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Here’s a summary of our South Africa trip during June/July 2009. (Our kids were ages 9 and 11. We spent 20 days in South Africa and 10 days on safari in Zimbabwe.) Thanks to many of you on this forum for your very helpful suggestions which greatly enhanced our trip! I have not included basic information that can be found in a guidebook or simple web search.

Sorry I've been so slow to post this, but better late than never (I hope).

Cape Town – We stayed at the Fritz Hotel, in a safe, quiet, yet central and convenient area of town. It was a nice, friendly place with good prices. There are several casual, good restaurants nearby, and we had a good dinner in the touristy Africa Cafe.

We spent 4 days in Cape Town; one just wandering, one visiting Robben Island, and two hiking. We climbed both Lions Head and Table Mountains and loved both. Lions Head is smaller but has a few tricky scrambles up rocks and ladders. You will want a cellphone to call a taxi when you get down. We took the easiest route up Table Mountain, the Plattekip Gorge route; we had our taxi stop at the tram base so we could buy a trail map, and then take us to the trailhead. The restaurant atop the mountain is excellent. We rode the tram down.

We also spent a night in Liziwe’s B&B in Gululetu Township. Liziwe, her husband, and the friend who helps run the place are very friendly and will take you for walks in the area, which felt quite safe. And they’re walking distance from the famous Mzole’s restaurant featuring a great crowd scene and all sorts of meat (but not silverware unless you beg). The next day we took a Guguletu tour with Andulele, including a church service (and spontaneous invitation to a celebratory luncheon the church was holding afterward) and visit to a local bar (one of the few licensed ones, with a proprietor who had a fascinating history). The tour was generally good but we were disappointed to find that our guide was from a different township and planned on driving us everywhere, a recent change from the tour description we had read. We pressed until he was able to arrange a short walk with some folks from the bar; I recommend ensuring that your guide will be from the township you are visiting and you’ll have some walking time.

Cape Peninsula – We stayed for 3 nights in the Palm Tree Cottage in Simon’s Town, booked through Sea Spray Inn (http://www.capestay.co.za/seaspray/; Sea Spray was already booked). It was nice but cold (just space heaters). We chose to stay there rather than take a day trip from Cape Town because we wanted to see the penguins on Boulders Beach (very enjoyable), take the Baboon Matters walking tour (fabulous), and go shark cage diving. The shark trip was cancelled due to stormy weather, which was somewhat of a relief since I dreaded waking up at 6am to take the kids on a long, cold, rocky boat trip. Instead we drove down to Cape Point, which was fun.

Cederberg Wilderness Area – We took a 3-day trek through this dramatic area that’s 3 hours north of Cape Town. We were thrilled to discover Cederberg African Travel (http://www.cedheroute.co.za/trials.php), a Clanwilliam-based tour operator that organizes treks in conjunction with the nonprofit Clanwilliam Living Landscape Project. They provided excellent guides for both walking and learning about rock art, as well as arranging lodging in simple but friendly places, meals, transportation, and baggage transfers each day while we hiked with just day packs. Very highly recommended.

Bulungula Lodge – For a while I lamented how hard it was to find accessible indigenous culture in South Africa, but then someone tipped me off about this amazing lodge. This was one of the highlights of our month in Africa by any measure, and certainly the best value. Its greatest asset is its close ties with the village; they’ve made it easy to spend time with villagers and learn about their lives. In addition, the lodge is very eco-sensitive, with composting toilets and solar and paraffin-fueled showers. And it’s located on a gorgeous beach on the Wild Coast, accessed by a bumpy 2-hour shuttle ride from Mthatha. This isn’t a luxury resort; be prepared for adventurous showers, food that is usually delicious but limited in choice and often slow, and basic accommodations. But if none of that bothers you, spend several days here even if you have to go far out of your way (as we did).

Johannesburg – We liked the City Lodge Airport Johannesburg for one-night stopovers; it lacks character but has modern rooms that can fit a family of 4 for a reasonable price, especially on weekends when you can pay about half price using www.bid2stay.co.za. It also has a good, casual lobby restaurant, a small fitness room, and an unheated pool. It offers an airport shuttle but a taxi costs the same as 2 shuttle passengers and is more convenient.

For our final pass through Joburg we spent a couple of nights in a suite at Gold Reef City, a decent amusement park. While this isn’t exactly traditional Africa, we like amusement parks, the excellent Apartheid Museum is next door, and we weren’t planning on seeing a lot else in Joburg anyway.
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Old Apr 20th, 2010, 05:54 PM
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What an amazing trip for you and your kids!! I'd love to hear more about the experiences you had and how you came up with such a great adventure.
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Old Apr 20th, 2010, 10:28 PM
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Bruce, thanks so much for closing the loop and providing this kind of feedback. Your kids are very fortunate indeed!

Thanks, also for alerting me to the Cedarberg African Travel "Heritage Route". I have known of CAT as a high-end operator, but wasn't aware of this offering. I believe the correct URL is http://www.cedarberg-travel.com/sout...berg-mountains

Kurt
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Old Apr 21st, 2010, 08:47 AM
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What a great report, thank you! It's always terrific to read about some different alternatives for exploring a place, and it sounds like your family had a wonderful experience. I'm taking notes for my own future trip planning... I'd especially love to do that Cedarburg hiking trip and Bulungula lodge. Thanks!!
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Old Apr 21st, 2010, 04:25 PM
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Wonderful, thank you for your account. What a great family trip.
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Old Sep 8th, 2011, 06:10 AM
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We are visiting the Blyde River area and wanted to get an opinion on where to spend a night - Graskop or Hazyview. After reading the posts, where a few have recommended Graskop (one post-er in particular, turned up recommending Graskop Htl on multiple posts!), I was going for that. But my travel agent strongly advised me to not do so, saying simply that it is unsafe, and Hazyview is much nicer - I take her seriously simply because she has been very good so far in organising stuff. Of course two people can have different opinions, but simply put, is Graskop relatively unsafe in terms of crime, grittiness, etc? Help pls!
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