Trip Report on our Inland Africa Trip, by gan63©
Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, Victoria Falls on the Zambezi River, and Sabi Sabi Game Reserve in South Africa.

I feel a trip purpose note in order before getting into the details of the report: We made the trip primarily to experience the natural side of the parts of South-central Africa we were visiting. Regional safety and friendliness of native peoples also guided our destination decisions. We also tried to plan the trip at the level of travel we are accustomed to, if possible, and we realized that the Zambia portion would probably not be able to supply upper end accommodations. We tried to rely on operator lodging descriptions and existing trip reports. Our comments and descriptions reflect things as we found them. I am sure no two couples would describe things exactly the same, so please try to keep this in mind while reading this report. We planned our trip in 3 parts. Part 1 being African bush natural environment, part 2 being a rejuvenating short stay at one of the world’s natural wonders, and part 3 being a decidedly upscale experience at an acclaimed luxury lodge in a different part /environment of Africa.

Part Three- Earth Lodge, Sabi Sabi game reserve, South Africa - Late November, 2006

Wonderful, professional, beautiful, impeccable, truly a 5 star lodge. Choose any positive adjective you can think of and the Earth Lodge at Sabi Sabi would fit the definition. Access for us was via Federal Air, a small chartered company for the various lodges. Our flight from Johannesburg, where we overnighted after a Nationwide Airlines flight from Livingstone, was on time, comfortable, and enjoyable. A turbo prop aircraft, 20 seats, made for a quick and efficient transfer. Likewise on our return to Johannesburg for our flights home.

The Sabi Sands Reserve is a very large area, bordering the Kruger National Park and numerous other game refuges. There are numerous private game reserves located here, including the Sabi Sabi private game reserve. The entire northeast border of the reserve joins the Kruger National Park and there are no fences or separations along this area. The other boarders of the reserve are fenced and eliminate encroachment of developers and poaching. The shear size of the reserves here and the unrestricted access for game to and from the National Park make for areas able to support complete eco systems. Most of the area in decades past was cattle ground mixed with water corridors. The past 3-4 decades have seen the recovery to the splendor the lands once represented and the future can only bring continued reversion and continued excellent management choices.


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Sabi Sabi is a group of 4 bush lodges spread out over the entire private reserve.
We chose the Earth Lodge as our final African destination, and could not have been more pleased. We chose the “Amber Suite” at the EarthLodge complex, and will say unconditionally, it was one of the nicest properties we have ever had the pleasure of staying in. The suite itself was the definition of perfection in design, totally blending with the environment, and a testament to the design teams’ talents. A large living room, a dining room , a library, a wonderful master suite with a very large bath area (glass surround shower, huge clam shell shaped tub, double dressing sinks, separate enclosed toilet and bidet room), a second bath with steam room, a small kitchen, and a huge dressing/extra room made up the floor plan. An entertainment center in the living room was provided for those so inclined. Gas fireplaces were present in the living room and in the master suite, for the cooler season nights. All suites were equipped with sturdy doors, windows, and screening. Air conditioning for the warm season’s hottest days, if desired, was also provided in all suites.



The outdoor (covered) patio, small pool, outdoor shower, and private Zen garden completed the grounds of the Amber Suite. Privacy was exceptional. The Amber Suite building is a stand alone structure, as were the other 12 smaller suites. They are all spaciously sited on the property for maximizing privacy, the Amber suite exceptionally more so than the regular suites. All buildings were approximately 2/3 underground with the exposed side looking out on your own private piece of game reserve. The structures are concrete construction, which proved quite handy the morning an adult male elephant wondered up onto our suite’s roof.

The main complex consisted of a beautiful open reception area, a pool area, two open dining areas (both smoking and non-smoking), a very comfortable air conditioned lounge, a library, a conference room that also served as an art gallery, an underground wine cellar with a large dining table were we enjoyed dinner one evening, a spa/massage area, and a small fitness/exercise area.

The large and extremely well trained staff was anchored by Stephan, the general manager; Carol, the assistant manager; and our suite included our own housekeeping staff, porter, and waiter. All meals, any time of day were served in the suite dining room; or if we preferred we could take our meals in the main dining areas of the complex. Other than our last evening’s dinner in the wine cellar with our ranger, Zane, and Carol, most all our meals were taken in the suite.

Our Guide/Ranger, Zane(always armed whether driving or walking), was an extremely capable and trained member of the ranger staff; as was our excellent native tracker, Louis. I was accommodated with an earlier than usual start time on game viewing drives, in the morning starting before first light and in the evening before regularly scheduled times. This made for maximum game viewing, and the exclusive use of our own LandRover was a major benefit of selecting the Amber Suite.
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The scope of knowledge and abilities of Zane and Louis made the trip full of lifetime memories; and will be appreciated and cherished by us forever. The walks Zane and I made were exciting, educational, and secure. Our security and safety was always of the utmost importance, not just to Zane and Louis, but also the entire staff.

My wife enjoyed the spa/massage services the lodge offered and this part of the lodge was professionally staffed by some very talented people. We were offered 3 full meals per day, unlimited snacks and refreshments of any kind; all on any timetable we might chose. Menus were varied/multiple offerings to choose from daily and anything we might want not on the menu was cheerfully provided. For our wine cellar dinner we were able to write our own menu, with no limits or unavailable items. Spirits and libations were well stocked and varied. Tap water was filtered and high quality for all uses, and bottled water both sparkling and still was in endless supply, and never had to be requested.


Our daily meals consisted of wonderful pastries and fruits, beverages, before the morning drives; a full breakfast menu with varied egg and meat dishes for late breakfast; a fully varied multiple item lunch menu; afternoon pastries, quiches, and beverages before the evening drives; and fully varied multiple item choice multi-course dinner menus that changed daily. Deserts were exceptional. The chef and entire kitchen staff were to be commended for their exceptional offerings and service. Seafood, fish, beef, pork, fowl, veggies, wild game, salads, deserts; there seemed no limit to the culinary surprises offered every day.

Morning drives/walks breaks included beverages of choice and varied pastries. The evening drive breaks at sundown offered tasty meat snacks, barbeque meat balls or skewered chicken for example, chips, trail mix nuts, or pastries and your beverage of choice. I enjoyed Amarula over ice as my “sundowner” drink while for my wife a gin and tonic or single malt “sundowner”.


There’s a lot to be said about the success they have had and continue to have in reclaiming this land. Decades past clearing for cattle operations were now non existent. The reversion back to original splendor is well along (decades) and the future can only bring continued positive evolving of the animals, trees, and plant life.

Also of great interest was the evolutionary aspect of the “San” people of the Lowveld.
From the earliest Homo Erectus through Homo Sapiens the history and study of these people is fascinating.



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“Of particular note, their hunting related discovery of the benefits of the Poison Bush, Euphorbia tree, and venoms of snakes and spiders. Using these compounds on their spears and arrows made hunting for food much easier. This made possible the hunting of larger game and gave humans more time to develop spiritually and culturally. The San were artists and inventors, with strong spiritual beliefs and rituals that connected them intimately with the land and the spirit world. Rock paintings depict this relationship.” (From the Sabi Sabi guide book, a great reference book and a gift from the management).

Some of the highlights from this portion of our trip:
1- Animal numbers, although less than in Zambia and viewing opportunities, were plentiful and varied. The restoration of the area doing very fine indeed. The trail access was excellent as were the Landrovers, which made our daily drives very productive.
2- Multiple Leopard sightings and long viewing times, one of the only animals we failed to sight during our stay in Zambia.
3-Daily Lion sightings and long viewing times, one early morning we watched 6 lions finishing up the previous nights buffalo kill for over 1 hour, before other guests were even out and about.
4- Multiple and daily sightings of all the other “usual cast of characters”.
5- Multiple and daily sightings of Rhinos, which sadly were not to be found in Zambia due to past poaching.
6- Sighting of a Spitting Cobra, an African Python, and a juvenile Puff Adder.
7- Watching and filming a group of 5 adult buffalos from the large herd lining up like a US football team’s defensive line and challenging and forcing retreat of 2 Lions.
8- A long walking tour of the veld, a river corridor and upland hill area; all in one walk. Including a hike up to a rock outcrop which had a fascinating group of ancient “San rock art” rarely shown to guests due to the strenuous hike to get there and the need to preserve the area.
9- Wildebeest sightings, another animal not sighted in Zambia.
10- My first view of the “Southern Cross”, in the low southeast 4a.m. sky.
11- The professional and dedicated work of my ranger Zane and tracker Louis, spending close to 7 hours per day with these fellows a fine relationship developed which I will always remember and cherish.
11- Sundowners, set up with a table cloth and fabulous canapés and refreshments.
12- My encounter with a large male lion on one of our walks. Handled safely and yet with excitement to say the least.
14- Coming back to the suite and having a very large adult male elephant greeting us and our escort at the front door to our suite, eating from a tree and then proceeding up on the roof for a good look around and a meal off a tall tree.
15- Our final night’s dinner in the wine cellar of the main lodge. Excellent atmosphere and company.
16- The overall professionalism and dedication of the all staff to making our visit one of lifetime memories of their piece of the earth. Our security and safety was always of their highest concern.
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Lists: (I am sure we are neglecting to mention some of the animals and plants we saw, as the magnitude of same was at times producing “sensatory overload”; believe me when I say, “ You would have to see it to fully comprehend what we are trying to describe in this concise report”.) Some of the sightings listed here are from the other parts of our Africa trip, as we only compiled one list for all three locations visited.

Elephants, Hippos, White (or square lipped) Rhinos, Lions, Crocodiles, Zebras, Giraffes (the indigenous Thorncrofts variety of the Luangwa area and common giraffes in SA), Warthogs, Mongoose (multiple varieties), Baboons, Vervet Monkeys, Cape Buffalos, Kudus, Water Bucks, Pukas, Bush Bucks, Impalas, Steenboks, Hares, Tree Squirrels, Elephant Shrews, Spotted Hyenas, African Civets, Spotted Genets, Tortoises, Geckos, Scorpions, Frogs of many varieties, Dung Beetles, Termites, Guinea Fowls, Duikers, Klipspringers, Francolins (many varieties), Fish Eagles, Martial Eagles, Yellow Billed Storks, Saddle Billed Storks, Hornbills(crowned and red bills), Crowned Cranes, Egrets, SpurWinged Geese, Egyptian Geese, Hamerkops, Pearl Spotted Owls, Ibis, Vultures (hooded and white headed), Wattled Cranes, Plovers, Sandpipers, Doves, Giant Kingfishers, Blue Woodland Kingfishers, Carmine Bee Eaters, Spoonbills, Blue swallows, Warblers, Weavers, Redbacked Shrikes, Longtailed Starlings, Finches, Crested Barbets, African Cuckoos, Fiscal Shrikes, Millipedes, Centipedes, Cicadas, African Honey and Killer Bees, Redbilled Oxpeckers, Cape Glossy Starlings, Bronze Winged Coursers, Green Pigeons, Dark Capped Bulbuls, Village Weavers, Jacobin Cuckoos, Spoonbills, Blue Waxbills, African Python, Harrod Snake, Spitting Cobra, Puffadder, Black Mamba, Monitors, and others I’m sure we are neglecting to mention.


Baobob trees, African Ebony trees, Strangler Fig trees, Sausage trees, Potato Shrubs, Fried Egg trees, Leadwood trees, Mahogany trees, Citrus trees (orange, lemon, lime, mango, guava), Marula trees, Palm trees (seldom), Buffalo Thorn trees, Acacia trees, Torchwood trees, Bloodwood trees, Knob Thorn trees, Bushwillow trees, Bushveld Candelabra Euphorbia plant, Leopard Orchids in bloom, and many other trees, shrubs, and plants; and a multitude of Flowers and Grasses.





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Misc. travel notes:
1- British Airways flights were excellent, on time for the most part, and ultra comfortable for the long haul segments of our trip. The 2 for 1 first class tickets were a plus and absolutely worth the price. Nice lounges for layover time, escorted check in and boarding, and impeccable service.
2- Johannesburg, in our opinion, is definitely a place for overnighting and not much else.
We stayed at a beautiful hill top hotel, the WestCliff in a junior suite; another true 5 star property. Although in retrospect the Johannesburg airport Intercontinental hotel would have served the same purpose and saved us the trips through the city.
3- Non stop flights from our home city to New York via Midwest Airlines on their signature service flights were comfortable and on time for the most part.
4- Airport transfers between JFK and LaGuardia airports were well handled by New York Limousine Services Company.
5- British Airways, LRL, Royal Livingstone Hotel, and Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge were our own choices. The WestCliff Hotel was recommended by LRL.
6- Some of our Zambia transfer arrangements were booked by LRL, they were professional and courteous.
7- South African air transfers via Federal Air were arranged by Sabi Sabi, and were most enjoyable.


In closing, yes travel like this and to these kinds of locations is expensive; but consider what is to be gained personally and spiritually. Next time you’re looking to trade up on a luxury car you’ll have for a few years or a home larger than you really need, consider the African continent for a truly life altering experience.

Again our heartfelt thanks to all the individuals who helped make this truly a “Trip of a Lifetime”

All 6 pages of material in this report, part of a larger travel article, are copyrighted and the property of the author, registered “trip advisor and fodor’s member” gan63©



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Two questions please. Where are parts 1 and 2, Zambia? How much did the trip cost, both safari camps and air?
regards - tom
ps - did you take the trip as yourself a travel agent?

Tom, You get right to the point! I can help with the Zambia part (and Royal Livingstone) by putting in links

Zambia: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34908073
Royal Livingstone http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34908076

This is part 3 the SA portion.
Part 1 is on the Luangwa River Lodge
in Zambia. Part 2 on the Royal Livingstone Hotel in Livingstone, Zambia. The web site total word limits kept me from posting the 3 part report as a whole. Trip was taken by my wife and I personally, not as travel agents as we are retired from a construction business. All 3 parts were posted this a.m. in this forum.
I have only posted 3 reports here, so they should be fairly easy to find under a search. Approx. costs maybe$40K

thanks gan63 and lynn
When I did my trip report I also started to put it up as different parts-posts. Then someone reminded me that I could put them in the same post by making them follow each other as replies to the first post. That keeps them altogether.
regards - tom

As someone with a commercial relationship with all properties you have visited, I have been resisting participating on this thread, but after seeing your figure of 40K, I cannot resist.

Does that 40K include business class air throughout?

I mean in November it is low season pricing at Luangwa River Lodge and even with the Amber Suite, unless you stayed longer than I suspect, I am having a hard time figuring out how this could have added up to 40K.

Although I am sure many past visitors of Luangwa River Lodge will also speak up, I have a hard time with the 3* rating for Luangwa River Lodge. The wood decking in both the main lodge and in the rooms, the beautiful bathrooms including very nice shower and very nice oversized jacuzzi bathtub, electricity in the room and so many other features make the 3* rating seem a bit harsh. Of course it is not the Amber Suite at Sabi Sabi but I would figure that it was also 1/4th the price (yet still possibly the nicest standard room at a lodge in Zambia and compares very favorably to even places like Baines Camp and Chiefs Camp, both A&K/Sanctuary properties in Botswana).

Many on the forum would consider it a privilege to have a more exclusive experience and not have other guests in camp, rather than thinking of it as a negative experience that could be corrected by more advertising.

I do wonder if in the creating of the lists of wildlife, trees, etc., that you may have missed the true joys of Africa. I mean the lists are great but they also suggest, as does your copyright of the article, that you are considering marketing this article to a travel magazine or elsewhere.

Finally, I do wonder if a first time visitor to luxury lodges in Africa should be considered enough of an authority on the matter to write such an article for mass distribution, but just my opinion.

Glad you enjoyed your time in Africa and please do not take my post the wrong way...it is just completely different than what possibly half a dozen or more visitors prior to you have reported about Luangwa River Lodge.

Best Regards.

I think we may have stayed longer at each lodge that most people do(7nights-LRL and 6 nights SS). All air travel was first class. And probably the advertising of the LRL vs. actual conditions was the biggest disappointment there. I'm 49 and my wife is 60. In our lives we have travel alot in central and south america. And in my diving and uw videography I've traveled out of the states quite alot and to many places. Trip of a Lifetime for us meaning we will probably only get to Africa once in our lives.

whoops forgot to answer the publishing ?

No, I have no intention or desire to sell articles. I have always included a copyright on any pics, video, or reports I post on the web, just smart thinking in this day and age. I have had some of each "pirated" in the past.

By the by, if you think by listing what we saw we missed the true Africa, you must not have read the whole report. My interaction with native people, admittedly only a few, was one of the things I'll remember the most. The lists were not only for our benefit but perhaps for other first time visitors wondering about the diversity.

LRL's lack of concern about guest safety in the shower and during power outages is a relly big negative for me.
regards - tom

Regarding LRL-
"it is just completely different than what possibly half a dozen or more visitors prior to you have reported"
I have the feeling sometimes that trip reports gloss over camp problems. Probably because the person has spent beaucoup hard earned dollars and does not want to see them. Or considers it just part of the "African experience". I'm sure gan63's report is one of the most factual I have read. Let us see if LRL disputes it.
regards - tom

Tom,

Well, I would hope that LRL does not "dispute" the report. I think that would set a bad trend to have lodges coming onto the board to start disputing trip reports.

I do think that the trip reports of repeat visitors to Africa do carry a bit more weight than first time visitors reports. Also, with so many glowing reviews and one so-so review, I think that LRL is still doing pretty well in the public opinion department.

Personally, I am more surprised than anything else. Also, if someone is in the room, the lodge may just be respecting her privacy.

Given that this is a one time visit, it is just very possible that the author and especially his wife are not Africa afficionados...trust me, in the Amber Suite, which features a television with satellite reception, DVD player, both music and movie DVD's, and also the wonderful Earth Spa on the premises (not to mention a golf cart for the transfers from the main lodge to the Amber Suite), it is not the typical luxury safari camp. Now, I have to admit that I enjoyed the golf cart rather than the long walk from the Amber Suite to the room. Also, there is even a telephone in the rooms at all Sabi Sabi camps and, in addition, Earth Lodge has internet reception. So, quite a few creature comforts but I think that a safari lodge should not be judged on the same basis as a hotel when deciding whether it is a 3*, 4*, or 5* lodge.

Best Regards.

Wow Rocco, you enjoyed the golf cart, is my memory playing me tricks, or where you not appalled at the idea of golf carts available (if guests wished) at Rattrays.

the whole "star" system is so subjective to where you are, who assigned the "stars" or whatever. I once stayed in a "5 star" hotel in New Zealand that wouldn't have gotten 3 stars in the states. It had 2 inch thick/thin pillows, mold in the shower, stains on the carpet, toilet ran all night and (I swear) someone else's "skid marks" in the plush robes supplied. No way it was a 5 star even though it was labeled as such.

NapaMatt,

Yes, that is why I mentioned the golf carts.

This time of the year, at what time do they start the game drive (both morning and afternoon). What was teh duration of the drive on average?

Hari

Hari,

Wakeup calls at Sabi Sabi were at 5AM...tea/coffee at 5:30AM, and then gamedrives commenced at 6AM and went until about 9 - 9:30AM before returning back to a full breakfast.

Lunch was served at 1PM and high tea was at 4PM, with game drives commencing about 4:30PM and going anywhere from 7:30PM - 8PM, with an 8:30PM dinner.

However, as the author of this thread stated, by having a private game vehicle, you can extend your game drives, within reason (I was told an extra hour per game drive is considered reasonable, although I just stuck to the normal times with my own private vehicle).

Although I disagree with the original author's assessment about Luangwa River Lodge, I am in agreement with what he says about Sabi Sabi. I am very surprised that in 6 nights at Luangwa River Lodge that he failed to see a leopard. During my last visit, not more than an hour into my first game drive, Barry (one of the owners and Sean's brother) watched as a leopard made a quick and easy kill of a puku and was forced to immediately drag it up a tree as a couple hyenas appeared on the scene within 60 seconds. I have always been able to find leopards in South Luangwa.

Good Morning,
Rocco once again I think you may have not read some of my report the way it was (perhaps confusingly) written.

We were not dismayed to be the only guests during most of our stay at LRL.
I believe I mentioned we felt lucky to have a rover to ourselves.
The new advirtising note came from the owners, while we were there a newer owner we were introduced to as Ian had arrived for this express purpose, we were even asked to be in photos- which we declined.

Back to Sabi Sabi- my morning drives/walks were wake up at 4am, in the rover by 4:15am and back to the lodge around 8:30am when just drives and 9 to 9:30am when drive/walk combined. The evenings were in the rover at approx. 4:20pm and back at what ever time I wanted- one rainy/blowing night at 7:30 or so and most other nights 8:30ish. The times were always my choice and lenght of outings never questioned. My tracker and ranger, although probably wore out when I left, seemed very happy to accomodate my interests and I think very pleased with the gratuities.

Rocco, thanks for the info on SS.......

I guess the private vehicle comes in handy.....be it, Botswana or Sabi Sands....

Hari

I am enjoying your reports.

FYI - Although you probably could not have posted this all at once, parts 2 and 3 could have been posted as replies to 1 to keep it whole. Just for next time.