Re Earl:
He's kind of a ex white trash spreader of good karma. Poor Earl has an unTopi-like ex girlfriend and a somewhat limited but kind hearted brother.
I'm sure someone else can explain better.

Many thanks Leely - of course I will be looking for your perceptions/experience with the guide. I'm learning.

I'm also interested in the spraying - tell us more.

Are there bathroom facilities in the crater so you don't have to go back up or risk it in the midst of animals?

Hope the BBQ is going well!

Earl is a white-trash ne'r do well who decides to right his life by making up for past discretions. He has become convinced that bad karma is to blame for his place in life so he goes back to the people has "wronged" (ie robbed, or whatever) and tries to make amends. I think that's pretty close anyway, I've only seen the show a handful of times.

But Carie's comment just cracked me up! I can just envision her son doing the "catch and release" thing with the tse tse flies!

Sorry for the hijack, Leely!

Nyamera - you may have to google "white trash!"

"Are there bathroom facilities in the crater so you don't have to go back up or risk it in the midst of animals?"

There are two picnic areas (usually crowded with up to 50 vehicles at lunch) with toilets ... the one near the swamp was no doubt the filthiest toilet I've seen in 20 years though (you'd think an entry fee of $100 per day per vehicle would mean a decent toilet).

BTW within 200 yards of the toilet near the springs we saw all of the big 5 within a few minutes ... a leopard that had been in the tall tree streaked away, there were always lions nearby when we stalked (we saw two attacking a buffalo), elephants and buffalo are common there, and we saw one rhino on the short spur entrance road.

Best location to see the Big 5 in Africa? By the toilets in the crater

Thanks Sherry and Cooncat. Is Earl’s ex-girlfriend more like a hartebeest? I found “white trash” at Wikipendia, but I think I’ll have to re-read it. Despite not having watched Earl, I don’t kill tse tses or mosquitoes. Though I haven’t noticed any good karma. Not killing is probably not enough; you have to give them what they need – your blood.
Sorry Leely. You have to post more of your report to stop the hijacking.

"Best location to see the Big 5 in Africa? By the toilets in the crater"

LOL ... the irony was not lost on us either since this was the only leopard we saw in 14 days on safari (didn't make it up to Seronera, where they are thick). And the Crater was the only place we saw rhinos as well (four total).

Hee Hee! So, the more bio breaks the better! Thanks for the laugh.

Leely so good to read thanks!! I laughed at Ngoro Wildlife Lodge becasue we had similar experience!
Keep it coming & THANKS!
J

Bill H, that's pretty funny how the Big 5 likes to loiter by the toilets in the Crater.

And I'm glad I didn't have to explain white trash to Nyamera. She's Swedish (or Danish?), so I don't think she knows the ins and outs of trailer living.

Reading LyndaS's report on her lunch in the Crater reminded me that I wanted to include a little bit more about the girls from Leeds we did the Arusha NP day with.

They were staying at a place in Arusha called the Empress Chinese Restaurant and Hotel. Any Fodorites heard of it? In any case, Green Footprint had asked all of us to bring a boxed lunch for the day trip. We got ours from Moivaro and while not extraordinary, they were served in these charming woven baskets with about a million items of food, napkins, biscuits, etc. The Leeds ladies told us they didn't think the the Empress really understood the concept. Their lunch was a black plastic sack with four hardboiled eggs and two bananas.

Of course we gave them ours to share. But remember the sad little lunch the Leeds girls were sent off with the next time you're complaining about the picnic lunches on safari. I know I will.

Nymera,
Glad you got that about the topi - I knew you would.
Earls girlfriend is more like one having the looks of a jackel and tendencies of a hyena.
You better start writing fast Leely, as we're restless.

edit nya - sorry

Oh God Sherry - you and I think alike! This morning I was thinking of how to describe Earl's ex-wife...(isn't she the ex-wife?)

I was thinking "hyena with a heart of gold!" ;-)

<b>Personal sidenote (off-topic) </b>

While at the Wildlife Lodge, Edward met our guide from our previous safari. He knew how much we adored Adrian, so he arranged for us to meet at the picnic area for lunch the next day.

There are reasons, not at ALL to do with Adrian or the company he works for, that led me to choose another company this time. Too complicated to go into, but basically I had some doubts/suspicions about one person in the office. Adrian, it turns out, also had his suspicions about the same thing, so he sort of understood my choice. We talked about this briefly.

Still, it was a bittersweet reunion. Kari and I both felt traitorous, especially as Adrian was so kind and said he had been missing us very much. He also confirmed some very sad news about our cook that I had heard a few months ago. In fact, Adrian told us that they had been together at Lake Natron when everything happened. So there we were, at the picnic site in the Crater, dodging kites and wiping away tears, Adrian consoling us of all absurd things. We tourists are mighty weak creatures sometimes.

On the brighter side, Adrian told us that he and his wife had another baby. She had left her teaching job in Moshi to start her own school nearer to Arusha. And he had been able to buy his own vehicle. Just a start, he said, but it’s something.

<b>Really off-topic about the driver/guide experience </b>

I’ve found myself thinking about the different personalities of our driver/guides and how they impacted our experiences. Edward is strong, opinionated, independent. Adrian is sweet, earnest, open; I’d say there’s something almost vulnerable about him. We liked them both in very different ways. I’ll get to the Nomad guys when we get there.

I’m probably overthinking this, but I do tend to work a little at establishing a good relationship with my driver/guide. I try to keep it in the front of my mind that he will have his idiosyncrasies just as I have mine, not to mention a probably vastly different cultural perspective. Since I’ve invested so much money and time in planning the trip, I don’t see the point of dropping the ball when it most matters.

Also, it has helped me tremendously that my friends Kari and Judy are both very sweet, kind, softie types; they even look the part. I’m more of a sly joker and somewhat formal/reserved. Our combo personalities have created a good balance on safari in the past. If there were two of me traveling, I’m not sure it would be as easy to develop what feels like a friendship in such a short period of time. I know the guide is working and I’m on holiday, but that doesn’t have to mean that we can’t have a good time together.

We’ve probably just been lucky with our guides. But these are the kind of things that keep me up at night.

<b>Bye-bye Crater </b>

We cruised out of the Crater after visiting some elephants, hippos and one last cheetah from afar. I mentioned the gazillion lions, right? The tree climbers, the fat bellied babies, the elegant females, etc.? The big male who basically said “Pi** off” to us by flicking his tail (it feathered Edward’s face) and spraying the car?

A great morning. If I had the dough to stay at the Crater Lodge and wanted two nights, I’d get up early both mornings and visit for half-day. Then I’d arrange some kind of hike or walk in the area for one afternoon. On the other I’d luxuriate in what I imagine is a heavenly lodge. Big spenders, it’s something to consider. I have only your best interests at heart.

Glad you were able to reunite with your old guide! Sorry to hear there was sad news about your cook

I, too, am sorry that you had bad news.

And of course, the relationship you have with your guide is a crucial matter, isn't it? Not off-topic at all!

hey, cooncat, get back to your piecemeal recollecting over on you own thread. I want to hear about the night you overindulged. &gt;

Leely:

I have really enjoyed reading your report, and understand how you felt about your cook - I'm sorry.

I am looking forward to your photos!!!!

Cyn

Sheesh... I am done with that rag of a trip report! ;-) I supposedly write for a living but I'll be damned if I can put together a decent report! Maybe in a few months!

Night of overindulgence: I don't remember a thing! ;-)