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Predator Biologist Report and Photos: Tanzania's Wild West and more

Predator Biologist Report and Photos: Tanzania's Wild West and more

Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 09:38 AM
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Predator Biologist Report and Photos: Tanzania's Wild West and more

I wish I had more time to put into a full blown trip report but I simply don’t right now and to follow the general guideline of finishing one report before your next safari I’m going to have to do this in a quick synopsis style.

I was in Tanzania for a couple weeks in May. I visited the Wild West (Katavi, Mahale and Gombe) with a group of safari professionals organized and hosted by Mbali Mbali and then I traveled independently visiting the Serengeti, West Kilimanjaro, Arusha N.P., and Tarangire.

Katavi National Park

Katavi was the major reason I wanted to make this trip as it has always sounded like my kind of place, way off the beaten path, jam packed with animals but few camps and vehicles. I was concerned that May would not be a particularly good time to visit as it really is known for its dry season animal quantities, particularly hippos, crocs, and buffalo but due to other trip leading commitments it was May or nothing for me.

Coming in with that expectation I was extremely pleased with what I found. Katavi is a truly captivating and very wild feeling park with outstanding scenery and dense wildlife populations. It started on the flight in as we crossed the gorgeous Katisunga Plains that were flooded and lush and had a wonderful herd of a couple hundred buffalo. This was one of those rare areas where on game drives there were almost always mammals in sight, be it along the flood plain or along the Katuma River, which was especially dense with animals. For the most part it was megafauna, the species sighted wasn’t the most diverse but it was big animals. There was a long stretch referred to as the Men’s Club as it is just lined with old Dagga boy buffalo, before you lose sight of one small group you come to another and there are some huge individuals. Hippo viewing was also extraordinary, by far the best I have ever seen, largely in part because the hippo are frequently out of the water during the day so they are relaxed and behave with a boldness out of the water that I have not seen previously. Many large crocs also ply the waters and are frequently sighted. Giraffe, zebra, and impala were all common sights during drives. We had two sightings of lions, including a nice group of 3 females and 3 cubs. It appeared a couple more females were going to soon add to this total so those going for the dry season should have a great chance to see some 3 months old cubs. We also saw spotted hyena and found a den only about 200 yards away from camp where an extremely young baby, just weeks old, peeked out of the burrow but remained in very thick bush and we needed to leave so as not to agitate the mother. There was an elephant in camp a few times and we had several sightings on the edges of the woodlands as well. Bird life was good, nothing extraordinary. It is a great place to see fish eagles and wading birds along the river and I enjoyed viewing open-billed storks.

Best wildlife highlight was the noise! Night time noises were intense and there was one night where it felt like I had no sleep. Lions, hyenas, elephants, hippos, baboons, just a cacophony of all species alternating through most of the night and that of course accentuated the wild feel of the park. I was able to do a walk as well. Due to high grass on the flood plains we had to walk a stretch fairly close to the river and at one point had the daunting task of crossing between bull buffalo and the river full of hippos and crocs but with patience the buffalo moved off far enough to allow a passing. Knowing these were the conditions there was a vehicle trailing a short distance away so that added a huge safety element should we have no way ahead. Walks are accompanied by an armed park ranger as well.

Katuma Bush Lodge is a very nice level of accommodation, to me an ideal balance as it is very comfortable but in no way over the top, which lends to good value. Guests stay in canvas sided tents on top of wooden flooring raised just 3 steps or so from the ground with en-suite bathroom, hot sink and shower, flush toilet. Comfortable bed, everything most people need. Common areas are similar, very comfortable, nothing over the top but a good place to chill. There are plans to move the camp more upmarket, aiming for the 5 star level by adding amenities like a swimming pool by the end of the year as well as introducing spa services, bath robes, etc. in 2010 so change is on the way. The location is fabulous, looking out on the vast plains and very close to the river so an optimal area for wildlife viewing. As evidenced by the nearby hyena den and constant calling of wildlife through the night animals are all around camp and pass through frequently. Both lion sightings were on the plains very near the camp as well.

The lodge has new managers Geoff and Colleen who are Zimbabwean and had only arrived at the lodge a couple weeks before my visit. They have worked in a lot of safari areas, mostly in Zambia I think. An unusual aspect of the camp is because Mbali Mbali is owned by a Muslim family they will not provide alcohol to guests. However, the camp managers run a private ‘bar’ so basically the managers are responsible for buying and serving alcohol and guests run a tab that is settled prior to their departure. The guides were West and Peter, with West being a Zimbabwean and Peter a younger guide from Arusha. Both were very nice and had good knowledge of the flora and fauna. In May, due the plains being heavily flooded the game tracks really focused on the riverfront areas and were a little bit of a limited and repetitive area albeit with fantastic sightings, so I didn’t get to see the guides in action covering the vast terrain that opens up in the dry season and this was the only real drawback to visiting in May as after a few drives it would be nice to expand to other areas of the park. Drives are in open sided vehicles and guests are guaranteed a ‘window’ seat. Unfortunately park rules do apply so this is now an on-road game driving area and you have to be in by dark so no night drives. There is some flexibility on going off road for special sightings like lions since the park is so lightly touristed.

To sum it up I have read quite a few times that Katavi may be the greatest kept safari secret and I would have no argument with that statement. I still have a couple more under radar destinations to investigate before I would make that proclamation but I absolutely loved the park, the scenery, the wild feel, and the game concentrations and I will definitely be returning to check out the dry season as well as this has become one of my favorite safari areas.

http://bgiven.zenfolio.com/p574403642
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Pred

Thanks for the report, looks good. How was the birding?

Matt
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Thanks for the report, Bill. After reading your report and seeing your pictures I'm very (very!) excited about going there in September. Your predictions for dry weather sightings (huge hippo pods, new cubs, etc) are real teasers .

I really like your picture of the buff catching wind of you. And the ground hornbills - I love those birds. And the muddy hippos. Very nice pictures.

Cindy
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 11:41 AM
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This sounds like a wonderful place to add to my list for a possible future return to Africa!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 01:51 PM
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Happy to read this report of a new (to me) area and lodge. Loved, loved the hippos. Thanks for taking the time to report. The tents look very nice and comfortable.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 03:13 PM
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Like Sundowner, I can hardly wait for September! I'm almost sorry to hear that they will be going "lux" at Katuma, though. We're looking forward to hearing more.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 03:32 PM
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Thanks for your excellent report, Bill. I have to say that Katavi N.P. is one of my favorite locations in all of east Africa. August, September and October are much better times, for sure, and it is nice to hear that you had a great time in the offseason!!
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 03:38 PM
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Thanks everyone, I'm glad you enjoyed the first installment.

Matt: In Katavi water loving birds were outstanding with open-billed and saddle-billed storks, pied kingfishers, African fish eagles, and lots of geese, ducks and herons. Grey-crowned crane and open-billed stork would be my best sightings. However, my best observation was Egyptian geese in courtship flying all over the place, honking and displaying. There two pairs trying to out do one another and honestly it was a lot more interesting to watch then lion cubs walking around in high grass although I did my best to watch both simultaneously. One of my favorite photos is two of the geese on a tree strutting for one another.

Sundowner and ShayTay: you have a great trip ahead of you! I thought it was awesome but by the time you get there and it dries out you are going to likely be shocked at the sheer biomass of animals that you encounter.

CW and Sealstep: definitely add Katavi to your list, I'm sure you would both love it.

I'll try and get a write up on Mahale soon.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 06:52 PM
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Great photos of the hippos, well great photos in all. Enjoying the report, and want to get back to Africa ASAP.

amy
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 07:40 PM
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Katuma Bush Lodge - searched web trying to find the rack rate. No joy. Anyone know the $$$ pppn? Also did not find web site for Katuma Bush lodge, only operators offering it. No rate info there either. Well kept secret, I hate that, feel like I have to do a lot of shopping price comparison.

regards - tom
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 09:00 PM
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Tom: The official site does have rates and is here http://www.mbalimbali.com/Rates.aspx

I don't know if its on the site but there is also a stay 4 pay 3 deal this year, so with a rack rate of $430 pppn it is a very good year to go. Next year once they upgrade the property I believe the rack rate is going to $600 pppn but that will include park fees (only $20 per day) and walks and fly camping that currently cost extra but still a sizeable rate increase. Also people should know that if you combine Katuma Bush Lodge with Kungwe Beach Lodge at Mahale that some safari planners will offer a combo/long stay discount.

Andy: I imagine May might have actually been more scenic but I definitely want to see the dry season animal congregations so I look forward to a return.

Thanks Amy, it was the best hippo viewing I've ever had and I was pleased to get some interesting photos of them.
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 10:00 PM
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Great photos! Thank you for sharing. Like Amy, I really enjoyed the hippos (I really liked the muddy one). You have some really nice light in your shots. One question about the vehicles, they don't look too condusive to any support for long lenses, do you use a bean bag, mono or tri pod (looks to cramped for pods) and do you use zooms or straight telephotos? Thanks again.
Pat
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Old Jul 2nd, 2009, 10:05 PM
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Raising rates from $430 to $600, guess they are not feeling any lack of business. That I keep hearing rumors of but not pricing to match.

regards - tom
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Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 05:47 AM
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Thank you!
anita
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Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 09:36 AM
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Tom: I overstated the rate, $600 is what Kungwe Beach Lodge is moving up to, Katuma Bush Lodge is $550 in 2010 but it is an unusual time to be upgrading and raising prices so they must be optimistic about moving further upmarket.

Pat: love the handle scruffypuma. I use an 80-400 VR lens which I hand hold. I think you could get by with a monopod pretty well but it would be too cramped to comfortably use a tripod and there's no good spot to place a bean bag. The vehicles are same style as found throughout Southern Africa and I actually prefer them to East African closed vehicles because you get a lower perspective and more open connection to the animals then using a bean bag out of a roof hatch but I am also comfortable hand holding my camera so I'm sure individual preferences vary.
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Old Jul 3rd, 2009, 12:01 PM
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Bill: Thanks for the lens info. I too, have an 80-400 VR which I am still hand-holding (not a spring chicken anymore...). I agree about the East African vehicles, while I liked the fact that the hatch provided a great spot for my bean bag and I did like standing while we are driving around, when the animals are close to the vehicle the "looking down" perspective does not make for good photos. I browsed your galleries and website, wonderful photos,and I feel exactly the same way as you did about your first visit to Africa....I was not disappointed at all and can never wait to get back. I was planning Mahale on my last itinerary, but my travelling companion vetoed the extra $$$, so another time. I will be taking my daughter for her college graduation in December to SA, Bots, and Vic Falls and I just cannot wait. Hopefully, after the trip she will understand my infatuation with Africa. Thanks again.
Pat
p.s. scruffypuma-the two best pets a person could ever ask for, dog and cat, both lived 20+years.
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Old Jul 14th, 2009, 04:59 AM
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Great news on Katavi, with all that action in May! Thanks.
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Old Jul 16th, 2009, 08:00 PM
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Such bright, brilliant photos. The Egyptian Geese courting in the tree were unusual. I loved the huge impala herd. The lions seemed ok with your vehicle so they must be somewhat used to visitors. That contributed to some nice lion shots.
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Old Aug 18th, 2009, 03:59 PM
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PB, are you going to eventually write about Mahale? WE are looking itno that area and can use more info.
By the way, congrats on your new biological endeavors! I would have missed these earlier reports/news if it weren't for a new posting by pixelpower.
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Old Aug 18th, 2009, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for the congrats Leslie. I will eventually get to Mahale but not much free time lately and I leave Saturday to go back over and will be in Africa for 6 of the next 9 weeks so will be a while to get a proper report done so I will do a quick brief one. I previously did a very comprehensive report on Mahale from a February 2008 trip when I stayed at Greystoke so that gives full info on the general area. This time around I stayed at Kungwe Beach Lodge, important to know when combined with Katuma Bush Lodge there are good discounts. Also, since I started this report Mbali Mbali revisited their rates and the 2010 high season rack is now $490 Katuma and $550 for Kungwe but again should be discounted for those booking the combination. This makes it significantly cheaper than Greystoke but Greystoke is a unique property.

I find Mahale to be complete magic, the setting of jungle and lake is an amazing combination. The contrast of active trekking and chilling on a beach and in perfect lake waters is fantastic as you work for the chimps but then can also get supreme relaxation. For me nothing can top time observing chimpanzees, they are so active and interesting and it all happens on foot -- only with primates can you be safely in such close proximity to charismatic megafauna, it is the most intimate wildlife experience that I have had. Obviously I'm a huge fan of Mahale and it is one of the few places that really has WOW factor as a completely unique location.

As for Kungwe Beach Lodge it is a very nice place to stay. The tents are just basic meru tents on a raised platform but still with tent floor as opposed to wood. There is a good comfortable bed, flush toilet, and hot water shower so has everything needed for comfort and is a good spacious tent. There's no real extra flare in guest tents, where as Greystoke really has a unique one of a kind chalet that is loaded with character. The main lodge is an impressive faux boat structure that is quite nice. There are 10 tents vs. Greystokes 6 chalet so a little bigger property. Beach front is very long and the tents are far spaced apart, especially 1/2 of them that are quite far from the central area, which is really rare and nice for privacy. Activities are the same at both camps, the head guide Sixtus is outstanding and the trekking is the exact same as it is from Greystoke, as is boating, kayaking and snorkeling. Drinks are not included but the price is significantly less making it a very good relative value.

Pat - thanks for the name explanation, you definitely have a great way with animals to have such long living pets and scruffypuma is a great way to keep it all in the heart. Sorry for my delayed reply, I've barely been here. I'm sure your daughter graduation trip will be phenomenal!
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