Out of Africa
I always plan to make notes to do a trip report but I think I've managed it only 3x.
Sep 13th, 2018 | 05:52 PM
#64
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,347
Likes: 8
I'm back for the next installment.
The following morning we set out early to begin the long drive to the northern Serengeti to our camp, Mara Under Canvass. It is the closest of any camp to the Mara River. We did not take a boxed lunch as we were aiming to be at the camp for a hot lunch. The drive was difficult, much like the drive the day before, but I took my Dramamine before setting out so I felt fine. At least my stomach did. I can't say the same for my back. Neither DH nor I have the best backs, and we have both injured our respective backs in the past. Luckily, the drive, while uncomfortable, did not add injury or do any lasting damage.
The drive, since it was totally within the Serengeti, was a game drive. We saw the usual, giraffes, elephants, gazelle, impala, jackals, hyenas, vultures, etc., and of course lions. It never gets old. The farther north we went, the herds of wildebeest and zebra became thicker. Oddly however, at least to me, there were less and less of the acacia trees, until there were virtually none. I have always associated the Serengeti with the acacia tree and it was strange to see that they did not grow in the northern Serengeti. For some reason, this disappointed me. I guess I like the way they look, all alone in the vastness of the plain.
We got to camp a little after noon and got settled into our tent before having lunch. Mara Under Canvass is a mobile camp, unlike the Kiota Camp, which is permanent. What this means, for those of you who have not researched or been on safari, is that the camp, including all of the tents, are temporary and are not there year round, but rather they are picked up and moved to a different location to follow the migration. There are 10 tents for guests, plus the "mess" tent where meals are taken, and a tent that has sofas, chair, tables, a small library, a few souvenirs for sale, and is a nice place to sit with a drink. There are also the tents for the staff. During their summer (which is winter in the northern hemisphere), the camp is set up farther south in the Serengeti as that is where the migration is occurring at that time. Our tent was very large and well appointed, especially considering that it isn't permanent. The tents are all en suite, with bucket showers, and a huge bed. We had a veranda, but again, were told not to sit on it after sunset as it could be dangerous. We had to be escorted back to our tent after dinner, just like every place other than Kitela.
We went on a game drive after lunch and a rest and enjoyed the scenery and once again getting up close to lions, still all females. After returning to camp in time for sundown, we took showers and then sat in the main tent for a bit, having a drink. We also sat outside around a fire pit with the other guests at the camp. Everyone was tired, having gone on drives that day or like us, arriving from another camp, but everyone was in good spirits and talking about their day. The food was good, but nothing special. They served soup, both rice and potatoes, meat, salad, vegetables, and dessert. Alcohol was included. None of it was buffet, which I was happy about. The staff were all very friendly, something we found at all of the camps and lodges. They really go out of their way to please. We brought big glasses of wine back to our tent and relaxed after laying out our clothes for the following day, not wanting to waste any time in the morning.
Our tent at Mara
View from tent
Our tent at Mara. Take the first left at the termite mound.
Jackals
Hippopotamus
Wildebeest
Lions
The following morning we set out early to begin the long drive to the northern Serengeti to our camp, Mara Under Canvass. It is the closest of any camp to the Mara River. We did not take a boxed lunch as we were aiming to be at the camp for a hot lunch. The drive was difficult, much like the drive the day before, but I took my Dramamine before setting out so I felt fine. At least my stomach did. I can't say the same for my back. Neither DH nor I have the best backs, and we have both injured our respective backs in the past. Luckily, the drive, while uncomfortable, did not add injury or do any lasting damage.
The drive, since it was totally within the Serengeti, was a game drive. We saw the usual, giraffes, elephants, gazelle, impala, jackals, hyenas, vultures, etc., and of course lions. It never gets old. The farther north we went, the herds of wildebeest and zebra became thicker. Oddly however, at least to me, there were less and less of the acacia trees, until there were virtually none. I have always associated the Serengeti with the acacia tree and it was strange to see that they did not grow in the northern Serengeti. For some reason, this disappointed me. I guess I like the way they look, all alone in the vastness of the plain.
We got to camp a little after noon and got settled into our tent before having lunch. Mara Under Canvass is a mobile camp, unlike the Kiota Camp, which is permanent. What this means, for those of you who have not researched or been on safari, is that the camp, including all of the tents, are temporary and are not there year round, but rather they are picked up and moved to a different location to follow the migration. There are 10 tents for guests, plus the "mess" tent where meals are taken, and a tent that has sofas, chair, tables, a small library, a few souvenirs for sale, and is a nice place to sit with a drink. There are also the tents for the staff. During their summer (which is winter in the northern hemisphere), the camp is set up farther south in the Serengeti as that is where the migration is occurring at that time. Our tent was very large and well appointed, especially considering that it isn't permanent. The tents are all en suite, with bucket showers, and a huge bed. We had a veranda, but again, were told not to sit on it after sunset as it could be dangerous. We had to be escorted back to our tent after dinner, just like every place other than Kitela.
We went on a game drive after lunch and a rest and enjoyed the scenery and once again getting up close to lions, still all females. After returning to camp in time for sundown, we took showers and then sat in the main tent for a bit, having a drink. We also sat outside around a fire pit with the other guests at the camp. Everyone was tired, having gone on drives that day or like us, arriving from another camp, but everyone was in good spirits and talking about their day. The food was good, but nothing special. They served soup, both rice and potatoes, meat, salad, vegetables, and dessert. Alcohol was included. None of it was buffet, which I was happy about. The staff were all very friendly, something we found at all of the camps and lodges. They really go out of their way to please. We brought big glasses of wine back to our tent and relaxed after laying out our clothes for the following day, not wanting to waste any time in the morning.
Our tent at Mara
View from tent
Our tent at Mara. Take the first left at the termite mound.
Jackals
Hippopotamus
Wildebeest
Lions
Sep 19th, 2018 | 12:08 PM
#67
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,347
Likes: 8
I'm back.
The following morning after breakfast, we set out for the Mara River as Silas heard that the wildebeest were gathering at the banks. We got there and parked among some other vehicles that had gotten there a bit earlier and watched as herds of wildebeest moved closer and closer.
There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason as to why the wildebeest will decide to cross, and they sure do take their time deciding on what to do. They would gather, stay put for a while, and then decide to retreat a bit. Or, they would all move to the left, and then the right and back again. Every time the wildebeest would move, all the vehicles, and there were quite a few by now, would also have to reposition. The vehicles cannot be in the way when the animals cross, so if the wildebeest started to move across from where we were parked, we would have to move so that we would not interfere with them. But the drivers also wanted to make sure we were in a good spot to see the crossing, if it ever took place that is. We were beginning to wonder if we were wasting an entire day waiting for the animals to make up their minds, and at the expense of seeing anything else, other than some zebras and elephants that decided to come and see what was going on. This went on for over 6 hours.
While the mornings were cold, as the sun got higher in the sky and the day went on, it became very hot, especially since we were not moving much, other than repositioning. At some point we ate our boxed lunch. It was the most exciting event up to that point. Finally, after about 6 and a half hours, the wildebeest began to walk down some rocks closer to the river. All the vehicles started their engines at once, rushed over to where we would not interfere, and were told we could actually get out of the Land Cruiser and go to the bank of the river as long as we kept our distance from where the wildebeest would be coming up from. Not only do you not want to interfere, but it could be very dangerous getting in the way of hundreds of running wildebeest. Eric and I grabbed our cameras and ran down to the bank, and no sooner had we gotten there when one wildebeest took the initiative and jumped into the Mara. That was all it took. The entire herd followed, jumping in and making their way across the crocodile infested river. This is a perilous crossing and it is not unusual for wildebeest, and zebras if they are crossing with them, to be taken down by hungry crocs. I'm happy to report that not one animal was taken by a crocodile. All made it safely to the other side. It was quite an exciting spectacle and well worth the wait. The wildebeest were surprisingly graceful when jumping into the river. The entire crossing took between 5 and 10 minutes. I was sorry that I did not think to take some video of the crossing, but luckily, DH did capture a little of it on video. Watching the crossing is one of the most sought after experiences on a Tanzanian safari and I can understand why. Talking about it and reading about it does not convey the excitement of actually seeing it. It will always be one of my favorite travel memories ever. Seeing the Great Migration and the crossing was a major reason why I wanted to go to Tanzania this time of year.
After the wildebeest were safely back on land, we left the river bank and drove around for a couple of hours, spotting animals and taking in the scenery. We got back to camp at sundown, took showers and sat around the fire pit with other camp guests having drinks and talking about the crossing. Everyone was excited about having seen it. It really was a great day.
The following morning after breakfast, we set out for the Mara River as Silas heard that the wildebeest were gathering at the banks. We got there and parked among some other vehicles that had gotten there a bit earlier and watched as herds of wildebeest moved closer and closer.
There does not seem to be any rhyme or reason as to why the wildebeest will decide to cross, and they sure do take their time deciding on what to do. They would gather, stay put for a while, and then decide to retreat a bit. Or, they would all move to the left, and then the right and back again. Every time the wildebeest would move, all the vehicles, and there were quite a few by now, would also have to reposition. The vehicles cannot be in the way when the animals cross, so if the wildebeest started to move across from where we were parked, we would have to move so that we would not interfere with them. But the drivers also wanted to make sure we were in a good spot to see the crossing, if it ever took place that is. We were beginning to wonder if we were wasting an entire day waiting for the animals to make up their minds, and at the expense of seeing anything else, other than some zebras and elephants that decided to come and see what was going on. This went on for over 6 hours.
While the mornings were cold, as the sun got higher in the sky and the day went on, it became very hot, especially since we were not moving much, other than repositioning. At some point we ate our boxed lunch. It was the most exciting event up to that point. Finally, after about 6 and a half hours, the wildebeest began to walk down some rocks closer to the river. All the vehicles started their engines at once, rushed over to where we would not interfere, and were told we could actually get out of the Land Cruiser and go to the bank of the river as long as we kept our distance from where the wildebeest would be coming up from. Not only do you not want to interfere, but it could be very dangerous getting in the way of hundreds of running wildebeest. Eric and I grabbed our cameras and ran down to the bank, and no sooner had we gotten there when one wildebeest took the initiative and jumped into the Mara. That was all it took. The entire herd followed, jumping in and making their way across the crocodile infested river. This is a perilous crossing and it is not unusual for wildebeest, and zebras if they are crossing with them, to be taken down by hungry crocs. I'm happy to report that not one animal was taken by a crocodile. All made it safely to the other side. It was quite an exciting spectacle and well worth the wait. The wildebeest were surprisingly graceful when jumping into the river. The entire crossing took between 5 and 10 minutes. I was sorry that I did not think to take some video of the crossing, but luckily, DH did capture a little of it on video. Watching the crossing is one of the most sought after experiences on a Tanzanian safari and I can understand why. Talking about it and reading about it does not convey the excitement of actually seeing it. It will always be one of my favorite travel memories ever. Seeing the Great Migration and the crossing was a major reason why I wanted to go to Tanzania this time of year.
After the wildebeest were safely back on land, we left the river bank and drove around for a couple of hours, spotting animals and taking in the scenery. We got back to camp at sundown, took showers and sat around the fire pit with other camp guests having drinks and talking about the crossing. Everyone was excited about having seen it. It really was a great day.
Sep 21st, 2018 | 01:52 PM
#70
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,347
Likes: 8
Thanks jerseysusan! If you have any specific questions, I'll do my best to answer them. I highly highly highly recommend going on safari. I am thinking about the next one, possibly Botswana. It will have to wait a couple of years though because it really is expensive, and we have a few vacations already booked. It really gets under your skin.
Sep 21st, 2018 | 09:03 PM
#71
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Fantastic Laurieco that you saw a river crossing. Agree — one of the best travel exieriences ever. Unpredictable from day to day, even during the “official” season, so that seeing it brings elation.
We too were happy when that all animals made it safely across the river, and there was a group “hurrah!”” from people in the assembled jeeps when a baby miraculously escaped from a waiting croc’s jaws.
We too were happy when that all animals made it safely across the river, and there was a group “hurrah!”” from people in the assembled jeeps when a baby miraculously escaped from a waiting croc’s jaws.
Sep 22nd, 2018 | 02:55 PM
#73
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,347
Likes: 8
I'm so glad that some of you are still enjoying this. I'm enjoying writing it as it allows me to relive the trip and remember more of it than I might otherwise would.
The following day turned out to be a great day for viewing lions. After passing herds of migrating wildebeest, zebras, hippos and giraffes, we came upon our first cat, a lioness, sitting in the middle of a shallow river (not the Mara, cannot remember the name) on some exposed dirt, alone and apparently sunning herself. A little while later, we had our first close encounter with a male lion. He was lying in the grass, still and looking almost dead, but he did eventually get up and was clearly not close to being dead. He was beautiful. He came within about 5 or 6 feet of our vehicle and sat down and just looked at us with what appeared to be very curious eyes. His mane was dark and full, and I just wanted to lean out of the window and run my hand through his mane and fluff it up. He looked so tame, but I quickly came to my senses and realized that would be a very bad idea. We stayed watching him for a long time, and he watched us as well. I think out of all the animals we saw on this trip, he was my favorite. There was something about the look on his face that just endeared me to him. I emailed a photo of him to my mother and she wrote back saying that he looked sad, and she felt sorry for him. I don't think he was sad, at least I hope not.
Here are some photos of my boy
My favorite boy
Such a fluff-able mane!
Such a beauty
After a while, he got up and walked away, much to my disappointment, but about 30 feet away, another male was lazing in the shade so we drove over to him and watched him for awhile. Another male was not too far away, so we drove to within maybe 15 feet of him. He got up and started to walk straight over to our vehicle. I had my window wide open and was looking at him, and when he got within about 3 feet and did not look like he was going to stop, I confess that I did get a bit nervous and was going to close the window, but Silas said I needn't worry. Turns out Silas was right as his lioness was about 15 feet away. The lion looked at me, looked at his lioness, and decided that his lioness was way more appealing than I was. While being shunned for a more attractive female could lead one to be insulted, in this case, I was not. The lion walked over to his lioness and mated with her, until she growled letting him know that she had had enough.
After a long time of lion watching, we drove to the Mara River and saw elephants lined up at the bank. After a few minutes, the elephants went into the river and crossed to the other side. I was unaware that elephants made their way across the Mara as well. We also saw a lot of crocodiles. I lost count of how many. I saw way more crocodiles on this trip than I have in 6 trips to Australia. Even when seeing them in Australia, in Kakadu, you are lucky to see their eyes sticking out of the water. Not so here. Crocs were sunning themselves on rocks, on the banks and floating in the water with much of their bodies visible. There were also a lot of hippos sunning themselves. It all looked very peaceful. After a full day, we were heading back and got a flat tire. It's hard to believe that it was the only flat we got.
The more attractive lioness
Elephant crossing and hippopotamus
Crocodiles
Herd of wildebeest
Our flat tire
The following day turned out to be a great day for viewing lions. After passing herds of migrating wildebeest, zebras, hippos and giraffes, we came upon our first cat, a lioness, sitting in the middle of a shallow river (not the Mara, cannot remember the name) on some exposed dirt, alone and apparently sunning herself. A little while later, we had our first close encounter with a male lion. He was lying in the grass, still and looking almost dead, but he did eventually get up and was clearly not close to being dead. He was beautiful. He came within about 5 or 6 feet of our vehicle and sat down and just looked at us with what appeared to be very curious eyes. His mane was dark and full, and I just wanted to lean out of the window and run my hand through his mane and fluff it up. He looked so tame, but I quickly came to my senses and realized that would be a very bad idea. We stayed watching him for a long time, and he watched us as well. I think out of all the animals we saw on this trip, he was my favorite. There was something about the look on his face that just endeared me to him. I emailed a photo of him to my mother and she wrote back saying that he looked sad, and she felt sorry for him. I don't think he was sad, at least I hope not.
Here are some photos of my boy
My favorite boy
Such a fluff-able mane!
Such a beauty
After a while, he got up and walked away, much to my disappointment, but about 30 feet away, another male was lazing in the shade so we drove over to him and watched him for awhile. Another male was not too far away, so we drove to within maybe 15 feet of him. He got up and started to walk straight over to our vehicle. I had my window wide open and was looking at him, and when he got within about 3 feet and did not look like he was going to stop, I confess that I did get a bit nervous and was going to close the window, but Silas said I needn't worry. Turns out Silas was right as his lioness was about 15 feet away. The lion looked at me, looked at his lioness, and decided that his lioness was way more appealing than I was. While being shunned for a more attractive female could lead one to be insulted, in this case, I was not. The lion walked over to his lioness and mated with her, until she growled letting him know that she had had enough.
After a long time of lion watching, we drove to the Mara River and saw elephants lined up at the bank. After a few minutes, the elephants went into the river and crossed to the other side. I was unaware that elephants made their way across the Mara as well. We also saw a lot of crocodiles. I lost count of how many. I saw way more crocodiles on this trip than I have in 6 trips to Australia. Even when seeing them in Australia, in Kakadu, you are lucky to see their eyes sticking out of the water. Not so here. Crocs were sunning themselves on rocks, on the banks and floating in the water with much of their bodies visible. There were also a lot of hippos sunning themselves. It all looked very peaceful. After a full day, we were heading back and got a flat tire. It's hard to believe that it was the only flat we got.
The more attractive lioness
Elephant crossing and hippopotamus
Crocodiles
Herd of wildebeest
Our flat tire
Sep 28th, 2018 | 04:40 PM
#77
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 22,248
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the pictures laurieco.
I agree the Migration is a highlight but many people go and wait about for the migration and they miss it.
You have to have an element of luck on your side.
I was lucky....and your right , when one Wildebeest goes down the embankment.......... the rest follow in a cloud of dust
Thanks for the enjoyable reporting.
I agree the Migration is a highlight but many people go and wait about for the migration and they miss it.
You have to have an element of luck on your side.
I was lucky....and your right , when one Wildebeest goes down the embankment.......... the rest follow in a cloud of dust
Thanks for the enjoyable reporting.
Oct 7th, 2018 | 02:16 PM
#78
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,347
Likes: 8
After a long break, I am determined to finish this report. Hope there are at least a few of you there who are still interested!
The following day turned out to be a very bad and very good day for animals. We set out in the morning for our last full day of game drives as we were flying to Zanzibar the following morning. We came upon a pride of lions and watched them for a bit, then Silas started heading somewhere, he did not tell us however what we were on our way to see. He was going too fast and DH had mentioned to me the evening before that he thought Silas sometimes seemed to be in a bit of a rush, and I had even said to Silas on a couple of occasions that I hope he doesn't hit an animal. Animals would be crossing the road and would run to get out of the way of the vehicle. Silas would sometimes slow down but on this morning, a herd of gazelles were crossing, and Silas was going too fast and I said, slow down, but he slowed down too late and hit a gazelle. I looked back and saw the poor animal lying at the side of the road, trying to get up but it couldn't. It appeared that its leg was injured. I cried out that he hit the animal and we couldn't leave it there to suffer, but since there was no rifle or other weapon in the vehicle, Silas kept going. I started to cry as seeing the poor gazelle, and knowing it was suffering, was too much for me to take. I was also incensed that he was going so fast that he hit an animal. What I did not know was that Silas got word of a rhinoceros sighting and was rushing to get us there. While I appreciate that he wanted us to see the rhino, I did not want it to be at the expense of an injured or dead animal. I really wish there was a rifle in the vehicle as I would have insisted Silas (or DH, who has hunted in the past but always ate anything he killed) shoot the gazelle and put it out of its misery. In retrospect, I should have insisted that Silas contact a ranger over the CB and have them go there and shoot it. The rangers do carry rifles, probably for safety reasons, and I assume, if they come upon poachers. In any case, I was left with DH consoling me that the gazelle probably did not live long as prey would have gotten it quickly. I hoped (and still do) that maybe it was just stunned, and eventually was able to get up and join its herd. In any case, I was distraught. As I mentioned above, the thought of an animal suffering is too much for me, and knowing that we caused it is unbearable. We did get to the area where the rhinoceros were (there were two of them, mother and child) and there was only one other vehicle there. They were walking, slowly, through the plain toward the dense jungle vegetation and walked right in front of our vehicle. It was very exciting to see this very elusive animal as there are estimated to be only 30 or 40 rhinoceros in the entire Serengeti. The experience was marred however by the earlier incident with the gazelle. I couldn't enjoy the moment the way I normally would have. After the rhinos walked into the jungle and out of view, I ripped into Silas. I was so angry and told him that this is the animals' territory not ours, they own it, not us, and if the animals want to cross the freaking road, you stop and let them cross the freaking road! I was practically screaming at him. We should be honored that the animals allow us to come into their home and view them and we should not be doing anything to disrupt their lives, and we certainly should not be the cause of their death. The rest of the day is kind of a blur, but that evening, during a drive, we did come upon another leopard. It was relaxing on a rock and did not want to get up for us, so I only have photographs of it lying on its side.
Silas spent the rest of the day apologizing profusely to us for hitting the gazelle, and I do believe he knows he was wrong and cannot drive that fast in the reserves, and, that he absolutely must slow down and/or stop for the animals. I was so upset though that I emailed Pearl in NY about the experience. I did tell her that I thought that Cheli & Peacock should be aware of this, but that I did not want Silas to get fired over it as I did think he learned his lesson, and, other than that, he was an excellent guide. But I could not let this go unnoticed. It was too important to not report.
At dinner that night, Silas apologized again and I told him that his apology was accepted but he needs to slow down and let the animals do what they want to do, and if they slow us down, so be it. He suggested as a way to make it up to us that he take us on an early morning game drive before bringing us to the airstrip for our flight to Zanzibar. Our flight was going to be leaving an hour late (we originally had a 9:00 AM flight, and it was pushed back to about 10:15) and we gladly accepted his offer.
After dinner, DH and I packed and then drank some wine that we brought back from dinner. It was sad knowing this was our last night in the Serengeti.
Rhinoceros
Wildebeest migration
Leopard
The following day turned out to be a very bad and very good day for animals. We set out in the morning for our last full day of game drives as we were flying to Zanzibar the following morning. We came upon a pride of lions and watched them for a bit, then Silas started heading somewhere, he did not tell us however what we were on our way to see. He was going too fast and DH had mentioned to me the evening before that he thought Silas sometimes seemed to be in a bit of a rush, and I had even said to Silas on a couple of occasions that I hope he doesn't hit an animal. Animals would be crossing the road and would run to get out of the way of the vehicle. Silas would sometimes slow down but on this morning, a herd of gazelles were crossing, and Silas was going too fast and I said, slow down, but he slowed down too late and hit a gazelle. I looked back and saw the poor animal lying at the side of the road, trying to get up but it couldn't. It appeared that its leg was injured. I cried out that he hit the animal and we couldn't leave it there to suffer, but since there was no rifle or other weapon in the vehicle, Silas kept going. I started to cry as seeing the poor gazelle, and knowing it was suffering, was too much for me to take. I was also incensed that he was going so fast that he hit an animal. What I did not know was that Silas got word of a rhinoceros sighting and was rushing to get us there. While I appreciate that he wanted us to see the rhino, I did not want it to be at the expense of an injured or dead animal. I really wish there was a rifle in the vehicle as I would have insisted Silas (or DH, who has hunted in the past but always ate anything he killed) shoot the gazelle and put it out of its misery. In retrospect, I should have insisted that Silas contact a ranger over the CB and have them go there and shoot it. The rangers do carry rifles, probably for safety reasons, and I assume, if they come upon poachers. In any case, I was left with DH consoling me that the gazelle probably did not live long as prey would have gotten it quickly. I hoped (and still do) that maybe it was just stunned, and eventually was able to get up and join its herd. In any case, I was distraught. As I mentioned above, the thought of an animal suffering is too much for me, and knowing that we caused it is unbearable. We did get to the area where the rhinoceros were (there were two of them, mother and child) and there was only one other vehicle there. They were walking, slowly, through the plain toward the dense jungle vegetation and walked right in front of our vehicle. It was very exciting to see this very elusive animal as there are estimated to be only 30 or 40 rhinoceros in the entire Serengeti. The experience was marred however by the earlier incident with the gazelle. I couldn't enjoy the moment the way I normally would have. After the rhinos walked into the jungle and out of view, I ripped into Silas. I was so angry and told him that this is the animals' territory not ours, they own it, not us, and if the animals want to cross the freaking road, you stop and let them cross the freaking road! I was practically screaming at him. We should be honored that the animals allow us to come into their home and view them and we should not be doing anything to disrupt their lives, and we certainly should not be the cause of their death. The rest of the day is kind of a blur, but that evening, during a drive, we did come upon another leopard. It was relaxing on a rock and did not want to get up for us, so I only have photographs of it lying on its side.
Silas spent the rest of the day apologizing profusely to us for hitting the gazelle, and I do believe he knows he was wrong and cannot drive that fast in the reserves, and, that he absolutely must slow down and/or stop for the animals. I was so upset though that I emailed Pearl in NY about the experience. I did tell her that I thought that Cheli & Peacock should be aware of this, but that I did not want Silas to get fired over it as I did think he learned his lesson, and, other than that, he was an excellent guide. But I could not let this go unnoticed. It was too important to not report.
At dinner that night, Silas apologized again and I told him that his apology was accepted but he needs to slow down and let the animals do what they want to do, and if they slow us down, so be it. He suggested as a way to make it up to us that he take us on an early morning game drive before bringing us to the airstrip for our flight to Zanzibar. Our flight was going to be leaving an hour late (we originally had a 9:00 AM flight, and it was pushed back to about 10:15) and we gladly accepted his offer.
After dinner, DH and I packed and then drank some wine that we brought back from dinner. It was sad knowing this was our last night in the Serengeti.
Rhinoceros
Wildebeest migration
Leopard
