Hi Eben,
How did Matemwe retreat go? Would you go there over Mnemba?

Thanks

Well, I ended up back in Kendwa/Nungwi and enjoyed the beach at Kendwa so much that my visit to Matemwe Retreat was completely rushed.

To finish my Zanzibar report:

KENDWA/NUNGWI - http://www.go-safari.com/Zanzibar/zanzibarNorth.htm

The best swimming on Zanzibar is at Kendwa. The beach is wide and powder-white and the water is inviting and crystal clear and clean. You can swim all hours of the day - even at low tide because the reef is not prominent there.

There are plenty of accommodation choices at Kendwa but I enjoy Gemma del Est (technically in Nungwi) because it is half-way between Nungwi and Kendwa.
http://www.go-safari.com/Zanzibar/GemmadelEst.htm

Gemma is hard to book in peak months thanks to Italian charters but it can be done if your agent knows who to call! Also take a look at my description for Gemma and get a deluxe room at the upper levels (there are 3 levels).

You can enjoy Kendwa easily as you can walk there in 10 minutes along the beach at all hours. It takes about 15 minutes to the heart of Nungwi along the beach (low tide periods only) but I would not do the walk after sunset as Nungwi has a bit of a history with safety at night.

By staying at Gemma you get a decent level of luxury and easy access to 3 different experiences (Kendwa beach, Nungwi beach and town and plenty of Italians at Gemma itself!)

Both Kendwa and Nungwi beaches can get a bit noisy at night with music from the beach bars which is another reason why it is nice to return to Gemma for a peaceful sleep!

But I recommend using the Half-board or even (B&B) plans at Gemma so you can eat at the different beach restaurants in both Kendwa and Nungwi. Gemma food is rather plain (the little pizza place next to the pool is very popular for good reason).

If you are on a budget you have so many choices that I will not list them here. I will say the following:

The best swimming and beaches on all of Zanzibar stretch from Kendwa Amaan in the south to Amaan bungalows in Nungwi. I would not stay north of Baraka Bungalows if you enjoy swimming. You can clearly get my point when you look at my map here:

http://www.go-safari.com/Zanzibar/ZanzibarNorthAJPG.jpg

Between Gemma and Baobab Beach Bungalows, the beach disappears at high tide and swimming is dangerous then.

I love the ocean, the sunsets and the beach-bar hopping in Kendwa and it is my overall 2nd favorite place on Zanzibar (after Mnemba).

MATEMWE RETREAT:

So with my extended stay at Kendwa and a super-tan in place, I rushed over to Matemwe to take a 5 minute look at the Retreat - or risk missing my flight!

Two-storied rooms - bottom level is very similar to the bungalows at Matemwe Bungalows. Top level has a lounging area and small plunge pool. But it is not on the ocean - it is set back a bit with tall palm trees and green vegetation between the rooms and the beach.

It is a great place but it does not compare with Mnemba, no! Comparing apples to oranges.

If you go to Mnemba you get a beach villa (sand between your toes) and 24-hours swimming in the ocean plus glorious sunsets and a dosis of island chic.

Thanks so much for your advice Eben- we have booked Mnemba!

Eben,

Good report on the Nungwi/Kendwa area. We stayed at Annan Bungalows last fall. It is possible to see some nice sea life right off the beach. We spend some time with a lionfish in about 6 feet of water and it was amazing. There are small coral heads scattered around and they serve as magnets for the fish. We just swam from one to the other. Also there are daily tripes from both locations to Mnemba. You don't land on the island but do get to snorkel the reef. Snorkel trip is about $15-$20. Didn't bring dive card so I don't recall the dive price. The trip includes lunch on the shore near Mnemba. Ask if they return under sail, as some do and that means you also get a nice dhow ride on the way back.

Can you please tell me what the prices were at Gemma? We walked by a lot but only stopped once to get pizza (pizza parlor is open to public) but it was closed that day. Also your link on the Gemma page that says "Home Page" is broken.

Thanks,
George

eben:
That is good info to have that the Matemwe Retreat buildings are not on the beach.

What an excellent thread, Eben this comes in super handy now that i wish to go to Zanzibar for 5 days before staying returning to Serian. I'd be going to Zanzibar or surrounding islands with my best friend and not so sure if Mnemba would be fun for two early -thirty females. This report was great when you had just posted, but so much better now that i m planning on going there next month. Thanks!!

Funny this should come to the top today! I was sitting here working and thinking about Matemwe Retreat as it does sound lovely. Have you been back, Eben for any length of time? Any further comments on the Retreat?

I am thinking it would be a nice place to relax for a few days after our safari next year.

Lynda, I'm also curious about the Retreat - I will be staying there in late November, and haven't been able to find much info. The reviews on TripAdvisor are extremely mixed - one person apparently had a rat problem (!) in their room, but other reviews are excellent.

... maybe what was thought to be a rat was a hyrax (minus the long tail)

I read the report that you mentioned hlg22, thanks for posting the link. I think in a past life I was Noah, because there's not much in the way of any critters that I don't mind (spiders are the exception here, eeeewwwww), rats don't bother me at all. Well, hey they have to live to somewhere, right? And why not out in the wild? As I read the report, it is a clear cut case of 'Man infringing on their territory'.

I really hate to say this in case I start a storm, (as you all know I am not controversial by nature) but ask the front desk to please come & change the sheets, wipe up the bird poo, wash the hammock & get over it & get back into relaxing & reading. This is paradise, but even paradise isn't perfect.

And if I saw a rat I would be so busy trying to get a picture of the cute little guy (I am on safari after all) that I wouldn't be worried about anything else. Even if it was like one of those huge Seattle warf rats (you really have to see one of those to beleive it) that are bigger than my cats, I'd still be just trying to get it's picture.

When we do go (note I say when!) next year, as my heart is set on it, I will look froward to meeting 'Kitchen' the resident Matemwe Bungalows cat that the writer spoke of, I am sure I will really be misisng my own cats by then!

And as for them trying to get Kitchen to be a ratter, that's terrible - I have one myself who is always dropping rats, mice & birds at my feet asking me to make 'ratatouille' for dinner! I am forever scolding him telling him that they are (were) all living breathing creatures, but he never listens. I have to constantly remind myself it's instinct.

Lynda,
Yeah, I thought the review was a little overblown as well...I frankly would rather have an occasional rat than, say, roaches or large spiders (irrational phobia), and given the location and how open the rooms look on the website, it didn't entirely surprise me that some critters occasionally get in. Though if we see one I do think I will take Sandi's advice and tell my mother it's a hyrax. I can't imagine complaining about bird droppings on an outside deck, and I actually thought the little bite marks in the soap were cute...but especially for the price paid I do think I would probably request a linen change if there was rat pee on my pillowcase! More than the rats, what worried me a little about that review were the references to general disrepair, cleanliness and service issues for a place that is new and with fairly high rates, but I'm hoping they were just picky (chardonnay instead of champagne? The horror!), which is what it sounded like. And anyway, I'm betting we spend most of our time at our rooftop plunge pool, so as long as that's in working order, we'll be all set!

With all the construction going on in NYC, whether your address is on Park Avenue or elsewhere, everyone has seen a mouse of two. Nothing much we can do about this but set traps from hardware stores where I often meet the hoity-toity jet set stocking up.

Hey, I've gotten to actually name those I happen to see, and those I don't see... don't exist. Do I like these little critter? Hell no! Would I move? No way!

If you find anything amiss in your room, anywhere, have housekeeping do what is necessary to make it as right as possible. And, then forget about it and enjoy yourself.

Bookmarking.

Bookmarking

As I am SO slow at getting to my trip report this year, I will jump in here and say that Matemwe Retreat was INCREDIBLE. By & far that was the nicest 2 days relaxation on an ocean I have had anywhere in this world!

The food, the wonderful comfortable deck, the butler, the watching of the ocean for hours, the plunge pool when you got hot, the bar, the day bed for reading a good book, the sunken tub with a view, the hammock, wow, everything was just perfect!

My only regret was that I didn't meet Kitchen, the resident cat, we were so busy relaxing & doing nothing we just couldn't find the time to go down to the bungalows & the main area. Oh well, next time!

Lynda, I understand there is a nice view from the second floor to the ocean. Can you see the ocean clearly and easily from the main floor of your room?

There is an incredible view from the second floor, and from t he main floor as well. We had a very clear view of the ocean from both. I will post pictures eventually but I am really slow at getting to that!