GreenDrake

I recently spent 8 days at Mashatu at the end of October and thought I would give a brief report. I won’t go into great detail as there have been a couple of great recent reports from CarlaM and Skimmer.

For background on my perspective this was my 4th trip to Africa with my 3 prior trips all being to the North and South Luangwa in Zambia. The bulk of my time in these prior trips has been spent at small informal bush camps.

Highlights of My Mashatu Stay

- Outstanding leopard sightings. I saw leopards on about 60-70% of my drives and the bulk of these sightings were in the daytime. This was a pleasant surprise. Leopard population in the reserve seems to be doing very well and most were very relaxed around the game vehicles.

- Elephants sighted on about 90% of the drives with most herds varying in size from 5-30. Elephants in most cases very relaxed around vehicles and only had one mock charge. Observed some things I had never seen before such as two very young elephants wrestling on the ground like a couple of 7 year old boys and elephants digging for water.

- Some new sightings for me – bat eared foxes and twice saw African wild cats.

- Numerous sightings of large and surprisingly fast Elands.

- A lone female cheetah on an attempted kill of a duiker. She missed it as it escaped into the bushes. This was my first cheetah sighting and she posed like a super model. Cheetah had not been seen by the guides for the prior three weeks and on my very last morning drive before my departure this beautiful cat graced us with her presence.

- Richard my guide was very experienced, knowledgeable, and friendly and had a good sense of humor. It was a pleasure being with him both on the game drives and at meals.

- Relaxed friendly camp atmosphere and the management (Aly and Mapula) were warm, helpful and gracious.

- Camp had a bush feel to it in that I could hear the sounds of the night (hyena) and had decent amounts of wildlife present in camp. I never take naps in the daytime so when I am deciding on camps I am keenly interested in what game viewing opportunities exist from the camp. My “camp” game viewing from the hide over looking a water hole and from camp bird bath included: bushbucks, impala, warthogs, vervet monkeys, porcupine, kudu, baboons, monitor lizards and one big bull elephant. Birdlife in camp included crested barbets, meier parrots, cardinal woodpeckers, masked weavers, red headed weavers, blue waxbills, yellow billed egrets, blacksmith plovers, and grey louries.

- Mountain biking with giraffes running along side us only 50 meters away


Other Thoughts and Observations

- The pack of 12 adult and 12 pup wild dogs unfortunately on the day prior to my arrival went across the Limpopo River into South Africa. They have ventured deeper into farmland and their survival is at peril.

- The lion population of the reserve currently only consists of on pride of five lions, but a female during my stay came out of hiding with 2 new cubs. We saw this pride regularly. Male lions have over the last several years ventured out of the reserve and not returned.


- Mashatu places limits of 3 vehicles at a sight. (Around 6 total vehicles in the Reserve – 2 at tented camp and 3-4 from the Main Camp) In the vast majority of sighting we were the only vehicle at a sighting, but if something unusual was spotted such as the lioness with 2 new young cubs your time at a sighting was restricted so that other vehicles could come and view. This was quite different than my experience in the North and South Luangwa. In the North Luangwa it is really isolated and also mostly walking so I never experience anyone else at a sighting. In the South Luangwa it was more a “wild west” attitude where you could stay as long as you wanted, but you also could have a 6 or 7 vehicles at one sighting particularly if you around the Mfuwe main gate area. All in all it was not a big issue, but there was a time or two I would have wanted to stay longer and we had to yield to others to maintain the 3 vehicle limit.

- The views from the front porch of the tents did not offer views of the open fields or water hole and were blocked by bushes. I was concerned about this at first, but it did not turn out to be a problem as I spent my afternoons at the hide or I the dining boma that gave me a good view the water hole.

- Next trip I am asking my pharmacist for monkey-proof bottles. I came into my tent on day and I see animal footprints on my bed. No matter how many times the guides describe footprints to me I could not tell a lion footprint from squirrel so I have no idea what has entered my room. Things are all knocked down all over the tent and I see my malarone bottle is missing. I searched the tent and can’t find it. I then step out on the front porch and the thief is sitting on top of my tent. A vervet monkey is on top of my tent looking down at me and the open bottle of malarone is on my front porch and the pills are scattered all over the porch with one half eaten. This was a child-proof bottle, but not monkey proof. Obviously this monkey did not have time to read the directions on the bottle saying he needed to take these daily!!

- Was sitting on the toilet one morning when all of a sudden I feel the cover of the toilet behind me lifting and as I turn around a small lizard pops out and falls into the toilet. Never thought I could jump so high with my pants down to my ankles. Not a pretty sight . I won’t go into any further details of the story other than both the lizard and yours truly survived.

So all in all I really enjoyed my 8 days. Game viewing was excellent, the camp had a friendly laid back atmosphere and much Mashatu is much more reasonably priced than the Delta camps.

My photos can be viewed at:

http://greendrake.zenfolio.com/p324960252/

cary999

Thanks GD, nice to have more experiences on Mashatu. Your only camp this safari? Nice photos also.

I've been to South Luangwa in 2005 and 2006, Robin Pope camps. That area of Zambia is like no other I've seen. It has a primitive, million years ago feel to it. One of my favorite photos from there http://tinyurl.com/55jnwf

regards - tom

scootr29

Mashatu is awesome....

walrus

I was also at Mashatu (Main Camp)at the same time. Thanks to your report, I will not have to do mine. Yours is giving all the necessary information. My guide was Fish, a great guide. It was my first trip to Mashatu, I will return
Pictures will be posted when ready

Mike

KayeN

Hi GreenDrake

Sounds as if you had an experience equal to Carla and Cindy's. I will be there for 6 nights in January 2009 and cannot wait for the experience!

I also need animal sightings to fill in all my spare time during the day - so it seems you were very successful in that regard!

Shall look at your photos tomorrow at work. I am mostly looking forward to the smaller things that I do not see at MalaMala. Though not small, I am also looking forward to seeing the magnificent Eland.

Kind regards

Kaye

atravelynn

Congrats on your first cheetah sighting.

I'd love to know more about the mountain biking. Was it a morning activity? How long/far did you go? How many people went or what is the minimum needed to go cycling?

The malarone and monkeys tale is a hoot. At least reading it is a hoot. So is the lizard on the toilet tale. I'm glad the lizard survived as well.

Next stop, photos.

GreenDrake

Tom - I really like the Nesefu sector of Sout Luangwa and you have some nice photos capturing the primitive raw feel of the area. Good game viewing in that sector and much less crowded than around the Mfuwe gate. Like that night time porcupine shot!

Mike - Were you able to see the lioness with the new cubs? The other vehicle in tent camp made the first sighting, but we did not have any luck. The variablilty in weather was a surprise. I was expecting HOT, HOT ,HOT. Instead it was 105 one day and then barely made 80 for a few days. Glad I brough my fleece for the moring drives.

Kaye there is a birdbath right in front of the main dining boma. Great birding in that spot with the monitor lizard and bushbuck making cameo appearances. Very cool shaded spot to spend the afternoons.

Lynn I went mountain biking twice. The young fellow doing the leopard researcher led the trips and both times it was just he and I. We went in the afternoons both days as that was what worked best with his schedule,but I could have arranged a morning bike. We would go out at the same times the afternnoon drive would go out - around 4pm. We biked until sunset - about 6pm and then would meet up with the vehicle for sundowners. Technically it took me awhile to get the hang of it as the terrain could be a little tricky, but after that I really enjoyed getting out of the vehicle. We had very good game viewing with sightings of zebra, elephants,eland and giraffe. I would say I saw more game biking than I generally do on walk just because you cover so much more ground, but probably don't get quite as close. We did however, get very very close to a tawny eagle with a kill and he tolerated us being right below the branch he was feeding in without flying away.

HariS

Hi Fred,

Thanks for sharing!!! You also have some nice pics, there ..... my fav ones are the kudu at the waterhole and the Leopard towards the end - I think, pic num 40.

Glad you had a good time! and glad you got to see cheetah - and she gave you some good picture ops.

Regards
Hari

safarichuck

GreenDrake,
I was dismayed to learn of the Vervet monkey and the potential overdose (even 1/2 tablet) of Malarone. While it is certainly not a fatal dose, overdosing usually results in hair loss and diarrhea. So now we have a hairless monkey with diarrhea running around in the bush. Hope someone gets a picture. That would cheer up this forum.
Chuck

walrus

In fact, I was in the vehicle from Main Camp that spotted the lioness and 2 cubs. Fish told us that it was her first offspring and therefore she was a bit worried by the vehicles. Nevertheless, we managed to follow them between 5 and 10 minutes and I was able to take some pictures of the lioness carrying one of the cubs in her mouth and the other one trotting behind.
Changing in weather like this is rather frequent at this time of the year when rains are close.

Mike

GreenDrake

Hari - thanks. I can definitely see why cheetah make it to the top of your list.

Safarichuck - "While it is certainly not a fatal dose, overdosing usually results in hair loss and diarrhea."

If that is the case,people will now be wondering if the Vervet and I are actually twins separated at birth!!

Mike - yes now I remember it was a vehicle from Main that first discovered the lioness. If I recall Fish seemed to be first to discover quite of few of the big cat sightings. Great that you obtained some photos. One of the people at the sighting from tent camp recorded a clear video clip of the mother carrying the cubs in her mouth and I was able to view that. Great stuff!!

Kavey

Greendrake, thanks for your report.

So, I can tell you had a great trip with some great sightings, and that you enjoyed the camp and staff.

How did you feel it compared in terms of overall enjoyment to your experiences in Zambia?

Is this a camp you'd visit again or, given the choice, would you probably prefer Zambia?

Also, did you manage to retrieve most of your Malarone or did you end up running short as a result of the little thief?!

tockoloshe

Nice to see a reminder of Mashatu.
You said you saw several leopards - do you know if any of them were the sons of the White Cliff female (Oubert & Boetie)? We saw them with their Mum just before she was killed and would like to know if they are still around.

CarlaM

So happy to hear you had a great experience at Mashatu! There isn't a day that goes by that I don't think about it and wonder how soon I can get back there. We had Richard for our ranger too.

Was this the only camp you visited? Did you fly or do ground transfers? Curious on the details how you got there and back.

I will have to check out your photos when I get home as I am blocked here at work.

The last update I received on the wild dogs was Oct 21st that they had returned to the den. I take it you were there after that. No news on the cyberdiary since. I will send an email for an update as I hope they are ok.

Great leopard sightings and lion cubs, terrific news! I see the newborn wildies are starting to arrive also. There are tons of Elands at Mashatu and a huge nursery of young ones right now. They are so beautiful!!!

Your bike safari with Andrei sounded great. I wondered who was going to be doing these after the loss of Paul.

I was cracking up reading about the vervets and the lizard. Sounds like the same lizard and vervets that watched me shower I will look on Pete's Pond cam for any bald monkeys. That was so funny.

The Hide and the Boma overlooking the waterhole are fantastic. Did any animals come to the WH while you were eating at the boma? Did you make it to Pete's Pond? They have been having alot of guests lately.

Your story about the footprints made me think of a funny story on our trip. I walked out of the tent one morning and saw huge paw prints in the dirt, about the size of a lion. They were in perfect shape. We asked Richard to come inspect them and identify what it could be. He was puzzled and had never seen anything like it. Later in the afternoon, I went back to the tent and noticed Ashley's shoe on the floor with the sole facing up. And voila!....there was the answer...the sole of her shoe had paw prints and she was the one making the tracks around camp. I went looking for Richard to let him know the mystery had been solved.

Thanks for all the details. There are lots of reports and updates on Mashatu's website if you are interested. I also get elephant research updates direct from Jeanetta that anyone can sign up for.

ShellCat

Mashatu update, as of November 7.

The Wild Dogs made a return November 5 after spending a week in South Africa-I was told they had left and chances were slim they would be back for awhile, so I purchased a stuffed one from the curio shop, and it worked! All 25 adults and pups were spotted on the road headed to Zanzibar by a truck driver who was kind enough to call the main office. We headed off at full speed in time to view the adults finishing off a small eland kill and the pups with full tummies playing chase with other vehicles. I will follow later with photos as they are all healthy and doing well. So well, they procedded to make another trio kill of eland calves later in the afternoon, all caught on video by Craig, the wild dog specialist. I was so excited to see all the dogs, as it was a first sighting for me and first for some travel companions who had been going on safaris for ten years!

The leopards and lions are all doing well, the fattest and most healthy lions I have ever seen due to the lack of pressure. After being at Mala Mala the week before, it was great to see well-rounded lion stomachs. To anyone going, I would highly recommend spending time with Andrei and Jeannetta on their respective game drive specialities. Very interesting to see the tracking expertise and equipment used by Andrei, not to mention his incredible patience. After hearing the need to track the lions and leopards, hopefully the non-believer collar people will see the benefits. Andrei is able to track the behavior patterns, and see where the territory each leopard marks with the GPS system. If you go there, he can show you all sorts of interesting data on his laptop. I did see all the animals that are collared, and none seemed to mind and they all expand with no issues of getting too tight.

Also, I went on the horseback safari two times, and it was amazing to see the elephants, wildebeast, giraffes, birds, waterbuck, steenbock, impala, and more from atop a horse. This was on of the reasons I went to Mashatu, and was not disappointed in the least. Great horse, guides and scenary. You do need to be an experienced rider and they have you ride in an arena to make sure of the skill level before going out.

Lastly, the rains are really late this year, so with luck, the newborn wildebeast I saw is a sign the water is coming. It was still pretty dry everywhere, however the animals are getting enough water in limited areas.

One couple did a three day bike safari, and overnighted in the bush. They loved it, and we never crossed pathes with them, so not worries if you on horses or bikes to share the same rocky roads with the safari trucks.

The outdoor dining in the Boma is really nice, as is the viewing from the waterhole every afternoon. The people at the lodge really go out of their way to please everyone.

Totally different experience than Mala Mala, and equally good on a different level. If you want to maximize your time with lions and leopards, Mala Mala is still the place to go. I appreciated the best of both, even the forty degree temp swing over two days. It was 108F the day we arrived and dropped to 50F the next day.

Back to the snow and cold temps of Bend, Oregon and watched Out of Africa on my first day back. Time to start planning the next one.

Hope this helps with a temporary fix.

tockoloshe

Do you happen to know what happened to the Mashatu newsletter? That used to be a good way of keeping updated on the Mashatu going-on. Last one was August 07.

CarlaM

http://www.mashatu.com/reports.htm

That is great news Shellcat. Thanks.

ShellCat

In regards to the newsletter, I did ask and was told they are trying to get caught up and back on track. Another suggestion was to Andrei and posting his research information on the website for junkies like us. I am sending him some equipment, and will reinforce the need for the newsletter/cyberdiary infomation on a regular basis.

GreenDrake, those photos are really awesome-what kind of lens were you using? Your leopard viewings were much better than ours, and our lion photos look nearly identical.

Carla-I mentioned to them about what a nice photo you put on the site of Paul, and all the great things you had to say. Bobson and Monty were very pleased.

CarlaM

Andre's predator reports are here:

http://www.mashatu.com/research_predator.htm

Shellcat, would love to hear all about your trip too...and photos??
Will you be starting a separate post, I hope!!!! &lt

Can't wait to get home and see your photos GD.

GreenDrake

Kavey – I was able to find all of my malarone pills less the ˝ one eaten.

In regards to comparisons to Zambia each location had its plusses and minuses. For my personal preferences I love the small bush camps in the North Luangwa and also those associated with Tafika in the South Luangwa. If someone offered to send me anywhere in Africa all expenses paid for 10 days this still would be my first choice. Only 4 chalets per camp and I really like the fact they are made of the locally found reeds and other natural materials. The raised ones are like the “tree houses” I always dreamed of having as a kid. They are my absolute favorites. Particularly in the North Luangwa you also have that very wild feeling with large lion prides. Other major plus in Zambia is that most of the camps I stayed at were either on the Luangwa or Mwaleshi Rivers. I am a true fan of rivers and I like being around the sounds and sights of hippos and crocs which Mashatu does not have, but I did see crocs on the Limpopo in the southern part of the Mashatu Reserve. Mashatu, however, had several things in its favor. Leopard viewing was outstanding and given the fact that I was mostly in vehicles versus the walking I generally do in the Luangwa, I for the most part had better photographic opportunities there. Then there are for me the all important economic realities. The North Luangwa and much of Zambia has slowly become more and more expensive particularly for someone like me that travels solo and has to deal with paying full plane prices for charter flights. Mashatu offered a more economical alternative with very very good game viewing, excellent guides and also had a remote wild feeling.

CarlaM – Evening dinner guests at the outdoor boma included a porcupine and one big bull elephant who gave us quite a show one night for our entire dinner. Aly also one night as we came back from a game drive thought she saw a big cat dragging something by the waterhole and Richard tracked leopard tracks and also the next morning we that a hyena had dragged something from the area of the water hole into the bush. Richard thought it might have stolen the leopard’s kill. I was there from October 19-28. The wild dog pups now had become big enough to leave the den and travel. We tried to find them the first day I arrive and the very next day learned they had crossed the Limpopo.
As the week wore on they went deeper and deeper into South Africa and onto farm land. It was looking grim and even if they decided to return the rains would be starting shortly and the Limpopo would fill and they would not be able to cross it back to Mashatu. I am elated to hear Shell Cat’s report that they were found. I never made it to Pete’s Pond, but we drove right pass it as we searched for the dogs. One night as we stopped for sundowners we drove up to the top of a hill and I instantly recognized the vast vista as the one Cindy captured in her elephants marching single file across the horizon photo. I asked Richard about you two and he remembered taking you to this spot for sundowners. Your story of your daughter’s animal print shoes is too funny. I wish I could have seen Richard’s face trying to figure out those tracks.


Tockoloshe – I don’t believe any of the leopards are the son’s of the White Cliff female. Most of my photos and sighting were of a female and her two year old daughter. The other major sightings were of a very big male that Richard had not seen before.

ShellCat – sounds like you had a great stay. I spent quite a bit of time talking with Andrei and I admired his passion for his work. Do you know how exactly the wild dogs returned? You mentioned they were seen on a road that headed towards Zanzibar. Were they captured and returned, returned on their own? Your home base in Bend is also a pretty nice area. I spend quite a bit of time fly-fishing on the Deschutes and Metolius and love the high desert country. Thanks for the positive comments on my photos. I used a Canon EF 75-300 f/4-5.6 IS USM.