About 1 year ago, I went to the Makalali game reserve outside of Hoedspruit in S.A. I went through an organization called Enkosini, started by a Seattle woman who moved to S.A. and started her own reserve. The trip was a last minute thing for me, as I had previously planned a volunteer trip to Hwange in Zimbabwe. Long story short, my family freaked and make me switch my reservations, flight, really everything two days before I left (by myself).

Perhaps the best thing that ever happened to me (after my husband, who graciously let me go for three weeks to another continent without him). Makalali was chosen as the small (65,000 acres) reserve on which to test elephant birth control as an alternative to culling, at least in part due to Audrey, a brillant conservation biologist of about 30 working on her PhD and living at Makalali. Anyone who's investigated elephant studies will find it impressive that she communicates with Cynthia Moss and Joyce Pool. The reserve also conducts its own studies of predator management.

On the first drive, we saw elephants and leopards, among others, and before the third night on Makalali passed, the volunteers had the opportunity to participate in a recapture of the reserve's two dominate male lions, who had escaped. I don't have a picture of me pouring water over a sedated lion in that back of a big red pickup, but that's only b/c everyone was busy locating his brother through the trees. The entire three weeks cost me $1750 or so; that's including comfortable rooming, full board (we actually went to the grocery weekly to pick out what we wanted, paid for by the project), a weekly trip to town, two daily drives or hikes through the reserve (walking beats driving anyday, but you won't see much of the larger or more ferocious residents), instruction (b/c we take down data for the studies, the dedicated guides, Mike, Greg, Patson and Andrews taught us identification and tracking for countless animals, as well as botanical I.D., and even local custom), and much much more.

I forgot to write this post when I got back, but have recently been using the site to ask about trips to Central America and thought this might interest some people. I will post more if there is any interest. If anyone is considering something of this nature, I highly recommend Makalali; it is truly beyond compare. I believe they provided twice the experience available from a commercial safari, for a fraction of the price.

My hat is off to Kelsey (of Enkosini), as well as Russ (Makalali manager), Audrey (elephant study), Mike, Greg, Patson and Andrews (game rangers and trackers).

I would love to hear more about your experiences. How did you learn of the reserve, how many volunteers, and more about what the project is all about.

Thanks for thinking of sharing the information with the board.

CW

I learned about it through the internet, and then spoke to Kelsey on the phone. www.enkosini.com is her reserve website. There is a link to the eco-experience section. There are tons of cool options. I may go back to S.A. to study Great White's through enkosini-ecoexperience this summer.

"Volunteers" is a glorification. We had work to do, but, if you're interested in wildlife, it's no chore. Our "duties" were limited to recording data while on daily drives and inputting the same into the computer system. No qualifications necessary, but we learned a lot. We received a lot more than we gave, even considering that we paid, or donated, to the study.

The number of volunteers varies. I arrived simultaneously with another girl. Only one other volunteer was there when we arrived. We all got along swimmingly, but it's close quarters (not necessarily sharing rooms, but you do spend your daily activities and meals together), so not enjoying the company of others will detract from the overall experience. Each week people departed and/or arrived. I think the max for volunteers is twleve, but we were never more than 6 while I was there, rangers not included.

If you are looking to be pampered, this probably isn't the place, but it's far from roughing it. We stayed in nice, clean rooms, in what is best described as motel style, minus the motors. Most of the rooms have their own bathroom and shower; a few share between two rooms. Breakfast and lunch are fend-for-yourself in the stocked kitchen; dinner is communal with shared prep and clean-up duties. We ate like kings, but we had a few chefs in the group. Plus the local area grows the best mangos I've ever tasted. In other words- it's not the luxury camps in which you might stay on a commercial safari, but it's luxury compared to what you'd expect. Seriously, my college dorm room probably wasn't as nice, and the common room at this place has clean, comfortable and suprisingly stylish couches and chairs, TV, VCR, comuter, stereo, and DVD (I think we used the TV/DVD twice, once for a presentation on elephants).

I'm not getting to half of what is important (you haven't lived until you've gone running and found a giraff running beside you), just to the stuff that might otherwise turn someone off. One visitor reportedly left b/c she expected five star, another b/c she went catatonic when she saw bugs (if bugs freak you out, this is not the place).

I looked at a lot of eco-volunteer programs, and while many appear to offer comparable experiences, I'd hold this up to any. As for safaris, I feel like this was more fulfilling. This program, while looking for the big game (we were recording data on elephants and predators), took time out to teach raptor i.d., how to distinguish a honey badger print from a porcupine print, and what to expect and do if (mistakenly) approaching any one of the big five (plus hippo) on foot. The only deficiency was the lack of involvement with local people. It's certainly not the Masai Mara, in that respect.

I'm being long-winded. In summary, perfect for anyone with a desire to get up close and personal with and learn about wildlife- as long as you aren't looking for the Four-Seasons. Come for the lions and leopards, stay for the copper dung-beetles, bubbling casina frogs, carmine bee-eaters and cape vultures. Did I mention the scenery?

If I've turned you off, or annoyed you with my-over-story-telling, I understand, but if you are still interested, I have pics.

Pics please!!

llbwolf

Was Charles Smith around at the same time?

I'm glad you were "long-winded." Enjoyed your account and would also love to see pictures.

CW

would love to see pics too!

I wish I knew how to create an easy way for everyone to see. I'm more than happy to send pics along if you'll either suggest a method or provide me email addresses. As they say, a picture is worth 1,000 words. And no, there was no Charles Smith while I was there. I was there from Jan.2 throug Jan. 23 (or something like that).

I enjoyed reading your post. It brought back fond memories of my husband and my trip to Sanbona in South Africa in January where we also did volunteer work at the reserve.

Your lion story was amazing. Unfortunately for us and fortunately for them, no lions were darted while we were there - although one was shortly after we left. Drat!

Anyway, thanks for sharing. Incidentally, "volontourism" is a new niche travel experience. It even has its own name!

Other posters have mentioned that no one goes to Africa just once and I see why. I'd love to return to the continent.

llbwolf sounds like the marketing agent for Makalali's owner.
Just my guess.
I "volunteered" and the truth is far from what she describes. Running with the giraffes! Who is she kidding? There are much better wildlife experiences (with staff that are actually interested in teaching).

hi rrobert 123-

can you suggest some other easy to organize south african volunteer experiences or elaborate upon what you didn't like?

thanks.

kerikeri

Hi Kerikeri--
Felt burned by this experience so I haven't been searching for other volunteer experiences in SA. Sorry, but can't help you there.

Regarding Makalali, I guess I bought into their slick website. But, when I arrived, it became clear that the ideal demographic is backpackers (mostly fellow Brits my age, so that was nice), but they wanted rowdy, alcohol filled fast and furious bush drives and I wanted a real nature experience.

Anyway, no one really seemed to be in charge or accountable. So, I suggest lots of questions about this place and get lots of unbiased and reliable references if you can.

"Buyer beware", I am sorry to say.

i greatly appreciate that information. i, too, realy enjoyed their website and had that idea on the back burner as an option. s many of the other "volunteer" organizations seemed to be exactly as you describve- spring break in africa- and that's sad to hear this is, too.

do you remember which of their options you did? maybe i'll ask them for the "boring" one that does not attract partiers.

shame it was not good for the wildlife in your case. i wish the inirial poster would return and elaborate.

thanks again.

kerikeri

Kerikeri:
I split between the programs. No real difference in the quality of either. Like most things, you may be able to find something to minimize the boredom, but I was unable to do so.

I probably did not fairly communicate the problem. The boredom leads to the drinking; I think that my fellow volunteers shared my wildlife interest...but turned to drink because there was nothing else to do.

Its a shame that we all showed up believing that the web site activities would actually be there.

Before you decide anything about Makalali, I strongly urge you to talk to as many volunteers as possible who have been there and are not affiliated with ownership or resume building. Maybe other sessions were better than mine.

Rrobert123,

llbwolf was apparently there in early 2006, when were you there? llbwolf seemed sincere in their description, as did you, so I am wondering if things go worse (or better) between your visits.

Tuckeg

OK, lots of questions to address. I've been in Honduras and also planning a move... so I have not been checking lately . Here goes:

1. I am not a marketing agent, for Makalali or Enkosini or otherwise. I am not being paid to do this and no one is holding my first child at gunpoint unless I write a flattering review. I am an attorney who wishes she had been a wildlife biologist. This may account for...

2. RRobert123's boredom versus my enthusiasm. I loved learning how to id different species, genders, ages, tracks, etc. I also loved inputting the data b/c it made me feel like I was playing scientist and actually contributing. On the days that we didn't see big game (which I must say were few and far between), I enjoyed learning about bushveld rain frogs, jewel bugs, acacia trees and european rollers... it didn't have to be Ernest Hemingway every day b/c I was actually interested in the ecosystem. I must say that this mentality was...

3. shared by at least a majority of the other volunteers. There was one notable exception while I was there and reportedly more than a few others through the duration of the program. Rangers told us stories of groups who boozed it up on a constant basis, and for whom passing our in the hammock was the activity of choice, regretably. On the other hand, in three weeks we had exactly two "rowdy" nights of drinking... both on nights before the days off- Read: we would never drink at all if it might impact our experience the next day. I assure you that none of the drives were susceptible to the characterization of "alcohol filled" or "fast and furious." Honestly, on one occassion, a ranger cursed b/c he inadvertantly cruised through a path of ants. ANTS. And he cared- a lot. There was one Brit who insisted on drinking every day. We avoided the drunkard and he avoided most of the game drives and all of the hikes. Speaking of which...

4. Because our initial group, in particular, was both small (3) and keenly interested, the rangers took us on a lot of LONG hikes, many of which were very exciting and genuinely seemed to have a great time of teaching us. As for other activites, we didn't necessarily need any; we were all in good shape, but we were spent! In the few instances when we were not...

5. The guides treated us to lot of fun extras. I love to run and Andrews, (one of our guides and an ex-marathoner)took me running frequently, even in the blazing afternoon heat. Note: running on the reserve proper would be stupid and dangerous (lions and leopards and death adders, oh my). So we took a car to a path gated off, but surrounded by reserve or ranch land on either side. The giraffes were running outside our path, but next to us none the less. It was really cool. Our other activities generally took place on the weekends when we were not on game drives to collect data. These included...

6. a trip to Maholoholo Rehabilitation center near Hoedspruit. The best side trip was, however, Blyde Canyon, where we did the typical loookout photography stuff, but mostly hiked a short path through what looks like rainforsest (not as thick, of course) to a series of waterfalls and cliffs where you can jump and go swimming. It was the PERFECT off day. On the way back, it was possible to stop off at the local bar, which, again, we did only twice. Once for one drink and the other for a few. We were far from spring breaking... but again, I don't want to discredit RRobert123, who knows what his experience was!

IN CLOSING:

I had a phenomial experience. We saw every big game species we could have and learned about some we didn't know existed. The guides were WONDERFUL. IF I can mention one serious complaint about RRobert123's response, it is that I find it incredible that he characterized the rangers as not willing to teach or as sponsoring irresponsible game drives. These guys (plus Audrey) adore their jobs and adore wildlife and, I thought, engaged anyone who was interested in learning. Perhaps their level of engagement is a function of the volunteer group that week or month. In that case, find some friends who are on your level and make them go with you. It was the experience of a life time for me. Trust me, it is my gratitude, and not any form of compensation (or alcohol, for that matter) that fueled this little blog.

Thanks for your interest!

Forgot to ask: RRoberts123... would you mind telling me why you were bored? Did you not see the wildlife you expected? Did you find it repititious? Were drives cancelled or truncated due to weather? WEre you expecting more camping?

It's entirely possible that I had an exceptionally lucky trip... but I just don't know how we could have been at the same place!

Ilbwolf,
I loved your editorial on Makalali Game Reserve. I am signed-up to go in one year from now. Did you arrive via Johanesburg to Hoedspruit? I am coming from the USA and was wondering about how much you had to pay for your airfaire - what airline you used? Did you get it all in one package? I am in my 50's do you think that is too old to go to Makalali? How strenuous is it and if you feel you cannot handle something is there a problem with not doing it?
The other person that was bad mouthing Makalali - do you think anything she said had any prudence?

bmueller:

To answer your question, I bought my ticket through expedia, which may or may not have been such a hot choice, because you forego a lot of protections you might otherwise have. As a result, legs of my flight were with different airlines. U.S. Air operted by Luftansa from Detroit to Frankfurt (where I got a day room at the Sheraton for the long layover... highly recommended to anyone traveleing through Europe to Africa), Luftansa operated by South African Airlines from there to Jo-Burg, and S.A.A. from there to Hoedspruit. Love the flight from Germany to S.A., big fan of S.A. Airlines. They often have promotional fares to Jo-Burg so look out for them.

Rest assured you are not too old by virtue of being in your fifties. It will depend on your vigor and fitness, as well as your tolerance for heat. There was a woman about your age with our group during my final week and she did fine. Most of the days include two game drives, but there are a few hikes during any given week. If you are not in shape now, I'd work on an incline trainer (or a treadmill with incline raised) or a stepper so you don't miss out... the hikes are great. You don't have to be a marathoner, but you should be comfortable working up a sweat.

I'm glad I checked this today, as I haven't in about a month. I was reminded becuase I just got in touch with Audrey, the elephant researcher at Makalali, this morning 'cause I'm trying to get a summer course abroad started through the grad program I'm starting this fall and I hope to send the students there for a period next summer. Maybe we'll cross paths. I hope this info was helpful.

One note: I don't know what it will be like during your trip, but mosquitos and malaria are not uncommon at Makalali and I recommend taking the pills, if only for peace of mind.

I forgot to add, I think I paid about $1350 for my ticket, but I could be wrong. I thought that was pretty good, but I'm sure you can do better with more advanced notice- I purchased my trip one month ahead of time.

More importantly, I can't promise anything, but I think you will not be foreced to do anything you don't want to and no one will condescend, as long as it's legitimate and reasonable.