Karen and Julie's Egyptian escapades: camels, sheesha pipes & belly dancing
Apr 12th, 2009, 04:34 PM
#101
Wow, $250 in Cappadocia? Turkey's on my "list" and I definitely wanted to do a balloon ride there, but I had no idea it was so expensive. I'm really glad we did it in Egypt!
More later.
More later.
Apr 19th, 2009, 09:47 AM
#102
Final day - morning in Luxor, afternoon in Cairo
We were supposed to leave early that final morning for Cairo and were hoping to visit Saqqara and the Bent Pyramid that afternoon, but it was not to be. Once again, Egypt's transportation system foiled our plans, as our flight was delayed till around noon.
Julie had decided she just had to have another (better) sheesha pipe, so she saw the delay as an opportunity for some shopping in the small and "relatively" hassle-free market near our hotel. She was a woman on a mission.
We scoped out the shops, eyeing the sheesha pipes on display. Unfortunately, there's no escaping some amount of hassle, even at the most low-key markets. The instant the shopkeepers see you glance at something on display, they're on you, trying to pull you in. We stopped briefly at one shop, but Julie didn't see quite the right pipe. A few doors down, she saw it - just the one she wanted.
She had asked me to let her do the bargaining herself - and a good thing, too - I'm not good at stuff like that. She was amazing. She was very friendly and calm throughout (and it didn't hurt that he clearly liked her, just like every other man in Egypt). She told him she wanted that one - although she made him change some of the pieces that went with it - the top and the hose.
Meanwhile, stools appeared for us to sit on during the negotiations. He got the pipe all assembled and lit it and he and Julie started smoking - passing it back and forth (yes, they just shared the same mouthpiece, hm).
She asked him how much. He quoted a price that we knew to be too high. She countered with a low offer, but more in the ballpark. He laughed and said, no, no, this was a GOOD one, not a cheap, tourist one. It was really for smoking, not just looking at. If she wanted a cheaper one, he could show her a different one.
She held her ground but in a very calm, unhurried, but firm manner. She upped her offer a bit, he lowered his. Then he seemed firm, but she still thought it was too much. There was a little chit-chat. She told him we were leaving for Cairo in an hour and that 140LE (or something like that - I've forgotten exactly, but it was less than $30) was all she had left (which was true - although I had more on me). They went back and forth a little bit, but in a friendly calm way, and finally he said, ok, she could have it for that. Then it was all smiles and handshakes and warm wishes.
We spent at least a half hour buying that thing. And it was really fun - one of our more memorable experiences. I think she got a pretty fair deal. I got some delightful photos (start with this one and then click through the five more, upper right thumbnail) -
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275...2f16#h17e82f16
We then headed for the airport and our flight back to Cairo, arriving around 4:00. The bus dropped us off for a couple hours in the Khan el Khalili bazaar - back where we'd started almost two weeks before. It was like coming home, only with 15 new friends! We strolled, just soaking up the atmosphere, and Julie and our Australian mates bought some tobacco for their pipes (banana, vanilla, strawberry, apple, and mango). We topped off the visit with a stop at Fishawy's for tea and one final sheesha smoke.
That evening the group went to a small restaurant within walking distance of our hotel, reminisced about our time together, and said our goodbyes. (The Australian dad had pigeon for dinner. I didn't try it, but his daughter said if was "quite nice.")
The next morning we were up early for the transfer (arranged by Gap - I think it was $40) to the airport for our uneventful flight home.
All in all it was a truly wonderful trip. Hope you've enjoyed it with me as I've relived the experiences. I have one more installment to go: my top 10 lists - sights, experiences, and tips. Later...
We were supposed to leave early that final morning for Cairo and were hoping to visit Saqqara and the Bent Pyramid that afternoon, but it was not to be. Once again, Egypt's transportation system foiled our plans, as our flight was delayed till around noon.
Julie had decided she just had to have another (better) sheesha pipe, so she saw the delay as an opportunity for some shopping in the small and "relatively" hassle-free market near our hotel. She was a woman on a mission.
We scoped out the shops, eyeing the sheesha pipes on display. Unfortunately, there's no escaping some amount of hassle, even at the most low-key markets. The instant the shopkeepers see you glance at something on display, they're on you, trying to pull you in. We stopped briefly at one shop, but Julie didn't see quite the right pipe. A few doors down, she saw it - just the one she wanted.
She had asked me to let her do the bargaining herself - and a good thing, too - I'm not good at stuff like that. She was amazing. She was very friendly and calm throughout (and it didn't hurt that he clearly liked her, just like every other man in Egypt). She told him she wanted that one - although she made him change some of the pieces that went with it - the top and the hose.
Meanwhile, stools appeared for us to sit on during the negotiations. He got the pipe all assembled and lit it and he and Julie started smoking - passing it back and forth (yes, they just shared the same mouthpiece, hm).
She asked him how much. He quoted a price that we knew to be too high. She countered with a low offer, but more in the ballpark. He laughed and said, no, no, this was a GOOD one, not a cheap, tourist one. It was really for smoking, not just looking at. If she wanted a cheaper one, he could show her a different one.
She held her ground but in a very calm, unhurried, but firm manner. She upped her offer a bit, he lowered his. Then he seemed firm, but she still thought it was too much. There was a little chit-chat. She told him we were leaving for Cairo in an hour and that 140LE (or something like that - I've forgotten exactly, but it was less than $30) was all she had left (which was true - although I had more on me). They went back and forth a little bit, but in a friendly calm way, and finally he said, ok, she could have it for that. Then it was all smiles and handshakes and warm wishes.
We spent at least a half hour buying that thing. And it was really fun - one of our more memorable experiences. I think she got a pretty fair deal. I got some delightful photos (start with this one and then click through the five more, upper right thumbnail) -
http://kbutler1122.zenfolio.com/p275...2f16#h17e82f16
We then headed for the airport and our flight back to Cairo, arriving around 4:00. The bus dropped us off for a couple hours in the Khan el Khalili bazaar - back where we'd started almost two weeks before. It was like coming home, only with 15 new friends! We strolled, just soaking up the atmosphere, and Julie and our Australian mates bought some tobacco for their pipes (banana, vanilla, strawberry, apple, and mango). We topped off the visit with a stop at Fishawy's for tea and one final sheesha smoke.
That evening the group went to a small restaurant within walking distance of our hotel, reminisced about our time together, and said our goodbyes. (The Australian dad had pigeon for dinner. I didn't try it, but his daughter said if was "quite nice.")
The next morning we were up early for the transfer (arranged by Gap - I think it was $40) to the airport for our uneventful flight home.
All in all it was a truly wonderful trip. Hope you've enjoyed it with me as I've relived the experiences. I have one more installment to go: my top 10 lists - sights, experiences, and tips. Later...
Apr 20th, 2009, 02:56 AM
#103
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Hi Karen - of course I loved reading your report, but I told you that so many times! I too was delayed flying back to Cairo from Luxor, but my wait was spent in the airport. I'm glad you got back to the Khan, I would have been happy to spend more time there.
Looking foward to your last installment.
Susan
Looking foward to your last installment.
Susan
Apr 20th, 2009, 04:53 PM
#104
Final thoughts and top 10 lists:
Egypt was an amazing and exotic destination, with a fascinating culture and a cornucopia of ancient treasures.
In remembering the trip, many impressions, and many words, come to mind. Before I went, if someone said Egypt and asked me to play "word association," I'd have responded: pyramids, camels, desert, Nile, King Tut, mummies, papyrus, hieroglyphs, Mubarak, and Muslim. And then I'd have drawn a blank because that pretty well summed up my knowledge.
Now that I've been there, if someone said Egypt, I might say those same words but would
add: traffic-jams, burkas, kosherie, sheesha, Ramses, Horus, Nefertari, Karnak, pylon, Nubian, Hatshepsut, cell phones, smiles, leers, mosques, double-crown, scarab, hot-air balloons, catacombs, bargaining, tea, felucca, cartouche -- and I could go on and on. And each word evokes rich and colorful memories. We had a wonderful time!
Herewith are my lists:
Top 10 sights:
1. Abu Simbel - it's worth the trouble to get there. Don't miss it.
2. Valley of the Kings - another wow. The paint inside the tombs is unbelievable.
3. Karnak - like a whole city of temple ruins.
4. Giza pyramids/sphinx - no explanation necessary. I think I grinned almost the whole time we were there. They look just like they look (in pictures), but you gotta see 'em.
5. Egyptian Museum - even if you're not a museum person, this is a must-see. Don't miss the mummies and King Tut's riches. Go with a guide, and try to get some time on your own as well.
6. Alexandria's catacombs - I loved them.
7. tie: Temple of Philae and Temple of Edfu (loved the Horus statue)
8. Luxor Museum - beautiful statues, not crowded. A delightful museum. Everything was displayed gorgeously.
9. Alexandria bibliotheca (library)
10. The Citadel
Honorable mention: Hatshepsut's Temple, Nubian Museum, Kom Ombo, Coptic Cairo
Over-rated (give 'em a miss): Unfinished Obelisk, Aswan Dam, Pompey's Pillar
Top experiences:
1. Hot air balloon ride
2. Camel ride at the pyramids
3. Sunset felucca cruise on the Nile
4. 3-night Nile cruise
5. Sheesha smoking with newfound friends
6. Bargaining for Julie's sheesha pipe
7. Overnight train ride to Aswan (interesting experience - glad we did it)
8. Tour by the monk at Wadi Natrum
9. Horse carriage tours in Aswan and Luxor
10. Walking in the shopping district in Alexandria at night and strolling the Khan el Khalili bazaar in Cairo
Top tips:
1. Carry 1LE notes to pay bathroom attendants. I always carried tissues with me in case there was no toilet paper, but it never happened. The bathrooms at tourist spots were surprisingly clean - but you usually have to pay, so be prepared.
2. When crossing the street in cities, try to stick with a local. There are no clear rules (that we could figure out), and it can be really scary!
3. If you don't want to buy anything, don't even look at the vendors you pass. Just keep going. If you express any interest, it's tough getting rid of them. It's more intense than anywhere I've ever been.
4. Bargain hard, but with good humor. Don't rush the process.
5. If you want to take someone's picture, ask first. Sometimes they'll expect baksheesh, especially guards in traditional dress at the various tourist attractions. If someone asks to take your picture, do it! I love it that about 20 Egyptian adolescent girls have my picture in their cell phone.
6. Use sunscreen every day, and don't forget your sunglasses and a hat.
8 ATMs are commonplace (there's one right at the airport) and easy to use. You don't need traveler's checks. Many places, but not all, take US dollars.
9. Tips (baksheesh) are expected for almost everything. Have small bills/change available.
10. Watch what you eat. Several in our group got sick. We followed the standard rule for developing countries: cook it, peel it, or avoid it. That meant no salads (no lettuce/tomato) and also only bottled water - even for brushing our teeth. Others may have different views, but this worked for us and was only a very minor inconvenience.
and (more than 10)...
11. Be prepared for unexpected challenges. Transportation can be agonizingly slow.
12. Courtesy and smiles are universal. Interaction with locals can be your fondest memories. Learn to say at least hello and thank-you in Arabic.
Biggest surprises:
1. It's intense. We've traveled extensively, but never experienced the number of stares we received in Egypt. The men leer.
2. The women are surprisingly approachable - as soon as you smile.
3. Everyone - men and women alike - were as interested in us as we were in them. We were like celebrities. I don't know if it was the blonde hair/pale skin or the fact that Julie and I naturally meet people's eyes and smile or what. But we were a hit.
4. I was expecting anti-American sentiment. We saw none. People were generally warm and welcoming. Obama is extremely popular.
5. It wasn't as hot as I expected - of course, it was February.
6. It felt really safe. Intense, yes. But dangerous, no. Guards were everywhere, and I never once felt threatened. Annoyed by the pushy vendors, but never threatened.
7. Although I knew it was a male-dominated society, the degree of it surprised me. I was expecting a bit more Westernized dress. Not among women. Nearly all of the women at least cover their heads. Rarely do you see a woman alone on the street. Usually women are in a group with other women or with their families.
8. Julie and I have always traveled independently, but we really enjoyed the tour group. Having all the logistics taken care of was nice, but even more, we loved being with the other people. We had a great group (and not too big). I'd give Gap a 9 out of 10. My only complaints: hotels could have been better located (and I prefer small and quaint rather than tour-group type hotels); I could have done without the shopping stops; and there were times I'd have liked more/less time than we were given as a group. Minor complaints.
9. Clean bathrooms (as already mentioned).
10. Traffic in Cairo is unbelievable - ranks up there with Bangkok. I wasn't expecting that.
And that wraps it up! If you've already been to Egypt, I hope you've enjoyed my report. And if you haven't been... what are you waiting for? I guarantee, Egypt won't disappoint.
Thanks for hanging in there with me!
Next trip... Paris/Amsterdam in September with my sister (and hopefully a friend and maybe Julie)...
Karen
Egypt was an amazing and exotic destination, with a fascinating culture and a cornucopia of ancient treasures.
In remembering the trip, many impressions, and many words, come to mind. Before I went, if someone said Egypt and asked me to play "word association," I'd have responded: pyramids, camels, desert, Nile, King Tut, mummies, papyrus, hieroglyphs, Mubarak, and Muslim. And then I'd have drawn a blank because that pretty well summed up my knowledge.
Now that I've been there, if someone said Egypt, I might say those same words but would
add: traffic-jams, burkas, kosherie, sheesha, Ramses, Horus, Nefertari, Karnak, pylon, Nubian, Hatshepsut, cell phones, smiles, leers, mosques, double-crown, scarab, hot-air balloons, catacombs, bargaining, tea, felucca, cartouche -- and I could go on and on. And each word evokes rich and colorful memories. We had a wonderful time!
Herewith are my lists:
Top 10 sights:
1. Abu Simbel - it's worth the trouble to get there. Don't miss it.
2. Valley of the Kings - another wow. The paint inside the tombs is unbelievable.
3. Karnak - like a whole city of temple ruins.
4. Giza pyramids/sphinx - no explanation necessary. I think I grinned almost the whole time we were there. They look just like they look (in pictures), but you gotta see 'em.
5. Egyptian Museum - even if you're not a museum person, this is a must-see. Don't miss the mummies and King Tut's riches. Go with a guide, and try to get some time on your own as well.
6. Alexandria's catacombs - I loved them.
7. tie: Temple of Philae and Temple of Edfu (loved the Horus statue)
8. Luxor Museum - beautiful statues, not crowded. A delightful museum. Everything was displayed gorgeously.
9. Alexandria bibliotheca (library)
10. The Citadel
Honorable mention: Hatshepsut's Temple, Nubian Museum, Kom Ombo, Coptic Cairo
Over-rated (give 'em a miss): Unfinished Obelisk, Aswan Dam, Pompey's Pillar
Top experiences:
1. Hot air balloon ride
2. Camel ride at the pyramids
3. Sunset felucca cruise on the Nile
4. 3-night Nile cruise
5. Sheesha smoking with newfound friends
6. Bargaining for Julie's sheesha pipe
7. Overnight train ride to Aswan (interesting experience - glad we did it)
8. Tour by the monk at Wadi Natrum
9. Horse carriage tours in Aswan and Luxor
10. Walking in the shopping district in Alexandria at night and strolling the Khan el Khalili bazaar in Cairo
Top tips:
1. Carry 1LE notes to pay bathroom attendants. I always carried tissues with me in case there was no toilet paper, but it never happened. The bathrooms at tourist spots were surprisingly clean - but you usually have to pay, so be prepared.
2. When crossing the street in cities, try to stick with a local. There are no clear rules (that we could figure out), and it can be really scary!
3. If you don't want to buy anything, don't even look at the vendors you pass. Just keep going. If you express any interest, it's tough getting rid of them. It's more intense than anywhere I've ever been.
4. Bargain hard, but with good humor. Don't rush the process.
5. If you want to take someone's picture, ask first. Sometimes they'll expect baksheesh, especially guards in traditional dress at the various tourist attractions. If someone asks to take your picture, do it! I love it that about 20 Egyptian adolescent girls have my picture in their cell phone.
6. Use sunscreen every day, and don't forget your sunglasses and a hat.
8 ATMs are commonplace (there's one right at the airport) and easy to use. You don't need traveler's checks. Many places, but not all, take US dollars.
9. Tips (baksheesh) are expected for almost everything. Have small bills/change available.
10. Watch what you eat. Several in our group got sick. We followed the standard rule for developing countries: cook it, peel it, or avoid it. That meant no salads (no lettuce/tomato) and also only bottled water - even for brushing our teeth. Others may have different views, but this worked for us and was only a very minor inconvenience.
and (more than 10)...
11. Be prepared for unexpected challenges. Transportation can be agonizingly slow.
12. Courtesy and smiles are universal. Interaction with locals can be your fondest memories. Learn to say at least hello and thank-you in Arabic.
Biggest surprises:
1. It's intense. We've traveled extensively, but never experienced the number of stares we received in Egypt. The men leer.
2. The women are surprisingly approachable - as soon as you smile.
3. Everyone - men and women alike - were as interested in us as we were in them. We were like celebrities. I don't know if it was the blonde hair/pale skin or the fact that Julie and I naturally meet people's eyes and smile or what. But we were a hit.
4. I was expecting anti-American sentiment. We saw none. People were generally warm and welcoming. Obama is extremely popular.
5. It wasn't as hot as I expected - of course, it was February.
6. It felt really safe. Intense, yes. But dangerous, no. Guards were everywhere, and I never once felt threatened. Annoyed by the pushy vendors, but never threatened.
7. Although I knew it was a male-dominated society, the degree of it surprised me. I was expecting a bit more Westernized dress. Not among women. Nearly all of the women at least cover their heads. Rarely do you see a woman alone on the street. Usually women are in a group with other women or with their families.
8. Julie and I have always traveled independently, but we really enjoyed the tour group. Having all the logistics taken care of was nice, but even more, we loved being with the other people. We had a great group (and not too big). I'd give Gap a 9 out of 10. My only complaints: hotels could have been better located (and I prefer small and quaint rather than tour-group type hotels); I could have done without the shopping stops; and there were times I'd have liked more/less time than we were given as a group. Minor complaints.
9. Clean bathrooms (as already mentioned).
10. Traffic in Cairo is unbelievable - ranks up there with Bangkok. I wasn't expecting that.
And that wraps it up! If you've already been to Egypt, I hope you've enjoyed my report. And if you haven't been... what are you waiting for? I guarantee, Egypt won't disappoint.
Thanks for hanging in there with me!
Next trip... Paris/Amsterdam in September with my sister (and hopefully a friend and maybe Julie)...
Karen
Apr 20th, 2009, 06:12 PM
#105
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Karen - excellent summation. I'm sure your report will be a valuable wealth of info and advise for future visitors to Egypt. As someone who has been to Egypt I thoroughly enjoyed reading each installation. Thanks again.
Susan
Susan
Apr 20th, 2009, 06:36 PM
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althom1122 - what a great summary. What a great trip. I have truly enjoyed following you and Julie on your travels through this land of contrasts. Thank you for sharing. We are already looking forward to your impressions of Paris and Amsterdam.
tC
tC
Apr 23rd, 2009, 05:49 AM
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Thank you Karen for letting me relive Egypt through your adventures. There are so many places on my must-visit list but even so I think I need to go back to Egypt in the next year or two. It has gotten under my skin like no other place I've visited - I really do think about my time there (last year) almost daily. I'm infected!
Have fun in Paris & Amsterdam. No baksheeshing there, at least
Have fun in Paris & Amsterdam. No baksheeshing there, at least
Nov 19th, 2009, 11:14 PM
#111
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I loved the summaries at the bottom. Your report was fabulous... the words drew me in and made me envious that my trip isn't next week... I have to wait until next year. Memories to treasure for a life time it seems.
Nov 20th, 2009, 03:35 PM
#113
I was surprised to see my report come back to the top! Thanks for the latest comments, dutyfree and MissGreen. I'm sure you'll have a great trip. And MissGreen, don't worry - you'll undoubtedly get some oogling! Even I got some at the age of 52. 
Nov 22nd, 2009, 05:44 PM
#115
See I knew you looked like 47 when you were in Jordan !!!!
No much much younger !!
For those who are wonder what I am talking about I am referring to althom1122's pictures of here trip to Jordan , 5 years ago.!!
No much much younger !!
For those who are wonder what I am talking about I am referring to althom1122's pictures of here trip to Jordan , 5 years ago.!!
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