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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 07:46 AM
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Just back from Tanzania

I just returned last night from 10 nights on safari and 7 nights at Pongwe. Both were fabulous and better than last year's safari at this same time. The tourist numbers are down some on safari and definitely a LOT less Americans. The drivers and their behavior were MUCH improved from last year. No one cut in from of our vehicle or acted badly as was happening last year. Cars stayed on one side of a sighting and didn’t interfere with anyone’s photography.

The sightings of cheetahs in Ndutu and the Serengeti were awesome (28). Eleanor and her 5 nearly grown cubs (1 was frightened away and was adopted by another mom with only one cub so we were told) were found nearly where they were sighted last year at this time in the Ndutu-Serengeti border area. They had just made a kill when we found them and then they ran after a rabbit and got that too about 10-15 ft from our vehicle. Also found a cheetah mom and 4 nearly grown cubs on a new kill in the Serenera valley right by the road. Found a leopard in Tarangire, 1 in Ndutu and 3 in the Serengeti all moving. We saw wildebeests being born in the Crater an also 6 rhinos. It was much dustier this year from last year and the lion sightings were way off for us. All in all the experience was much better than last year and last year was “our best vacation ever”. I had concerns that I might be disappointed since we did have the same driver/guide as last year and visiting mostly the same places (we added Tarangire (I loved this one and the ellies were fantastic.) and dropped Manyara and Arusha Parks). Not the case and I can’t wait to go back. I do have 9000+ plus photos to sort through (though I did look through them from Pongwe on Zanzibar and I was closer to the sightings and the quality is better than last year) and my husband took about 12 hours of video.

Ndutu area is teaming with photo crews this year. Last year I had the biggest camera (Canon with 100-400) and was always first out and last back. Not this year. I think there were 4 movie crews there and some with spotter cars out too. The lodge which was full was probably half serious photographers and some were staying extended days. The crews were nice and willing to share info. Ask any questions but I do have to go to work today.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 08:17 AM
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How fabulous a trip it was for you! WOW!

Is your Eleanor the same cheetah mum that Bill H named Maxi? How astounding to still have 5 of the 6 cubs with her.

I can't wait to see you pictures,
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 11:20 AM
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wildlifepainter, great to hear about your trip, we'll be at Ndutu in about 3 weeks!
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 11:44 AM
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Thank you for the update on Ndutu and Eleanor. We spent many wonderful hours with Eleanor and her six cubs last year and have many pictures. I am glad she has done well with her cubs. She was a smart Mom when it came to taking care of the cubs. We were at Ndutu the week after Bill H. and Maxi and Eleanor are one and the same.

cj
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 02:12 PM
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Sounds fantastic. Hope you have time to write a full report along with photos. The cheetah viewing sounds just amazing. You did well to post anything so soon after arriving home.

I just noticed there is is PREVIEW button! Yeh.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 05:45 PM
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Welcome home. Great news! Please write more when you are able.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 06:50 PM
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Welcome back! I've stayed at Pongwe a couple of times... lovely beach hotel.
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 08:46 PM
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I'm glad I stopped back in to read some posts and to find this one. We were at Ndutu last year around the 1st of February and we were fortunate to find a cheetah mom and 6 young cubs on our last day. Is it the same family - a year later? We saw them on the open plain west and south of Lake Ndutu and the Lodge. We figured only a couple would survive - how could she protect all of them?

We stayed at Simiyu - the highlight of our safari. We also stayed a few days at Pongwe. Did you meet captain Ali? - he ran their fleet (dug out sail boat and rickety dive boat). He was a great local tour guide. It was a great place to relax.

You can see my pictures of the cheetah (Eleanor?) and cubs at www.picasaweb.google.com/richalbums. cj, do you have a link to any of yours? I'd love to see others. I assume Bill H posted his somewhere - I'll have a look.

Wildlifepainter, thanks for posting.

Rich

Rich
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Old Mar 4th, 2009, 10:21 PM
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Welcome back, Hope you have time to do a trip report and sort your photos. I took about 9000 and still havevn't finished.
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 06:06 AM
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Thanks for the comments. Yes Eleanor is the same as Bill's Maxi and she was named by a Cheetah Conservation Program.
http://www.tanzaniacarnivores.org/cheetahs
check under meet the cheetahs though it isn't current.

It is rough stepping back into real life after safari. We hadn't seen a newspaper or TV in 3 weeks and then their is also family and jobs. Last year it took 5 months to get our labor of love finished,our safari video. It was a combo of movie clips and stills with music widdled down to 1 hour. We know more about editing so that should help but this year the photos and movie clips are better so it will be harder to edit down. I'm not complaining but... Anyway I'll post when I get some images ready.

Yes I LOVE Pongwe Beach hotel and this was a return trip. 7 nights on the beach after safari is heaven and this is our favorite beach place in the world.
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 06:16 AM
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Rich, yes your photos are of Eleanor and thanks for sharing. Seeing her again this year was a highlight for us. We were looking for them and there were rumors of sightings of Eleanor but you never know. It brought tears to my eyes to see them looking so good and to see them hunting as a team. Mom has taught them well.

We didn't go out with Captain Ali this year (fishing last year) but he was quite busy with other guests.
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Old Mar 5th, 2009, 06:35 AM
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wildlifepainter, welcome back. Sounds like a great trip and I'm green with envy as I had to postpone the safari I had planned for earlier this year.

Thank you for the update on Eleanor and her cubs. I can honestly say I have thought about her almost every day since seeing her last March. Even if only five have survived this long, that's great news. I hope the sixth was in fact adopted by another mum. I'm theorizing without data, but I wonder if that could be the cheetah who had three cubs about six weeks later than Eleanor. She was already down to two when I was there, and I heard later that she might have lost another one.
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