First Safari Trip Report
Jul 21st, 2011, 07:40 PM
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First Safari Trip Report
Part 1
Monday, 20 June
Tonight we heard lions roar.
And saw wildebeest stampede.
Relaxed in the still air at the perfect temperature.
Enjoyed the smells and flavors of our first African curry at our open air dinner.
We have arrived at Tarangire River Camp. We arrived after dark and could tell right away that the camp was beautiful. The mosquito netting around the beds made us feel like royalty.
We are hoping for a very good day tomorrow because our days of travel have been very difficult.
Our original plan was to fly STL to JFK, 6 hour layover to meet DS1 in NYC, fly overnight to London. Enjoy one day and then overnight in London. Fly to NBO, overnight there, fly to JMO and meet our guide from Warrior Trails. On Friday, we flew STL to JFK. Due to bad weather at JFK, our plane was diverted to Rochester, NY. Almost 3 hours on the plane. Many more hours in the terminal with little or no information. Finally took off, more delays, and then just missed our flight to London. Except for DS1, who lives in NYC and was on the flight to London. So four of us spent a nearly sleepless night in NYC in noisy hotel rooms, while DS1 (who we had not seen for 6 months) spent the night in London. Arrived in Nairobi two hours late because of mechanical problem with the plane. Flight from Nairobi was rescheduled from 1 to 3 and was then an hour later. Clamian, owner of Warrior Trails, met us at the airport to tell us that he could not be our guide as planned because his wife was ill and in the hospital. We did not arrive at River Camp until 8:45. Our driver, Sam, was unhappy driving after dark. Our substitute guide-Elias-appears to have never been to River Camp before. Not the best start to our dream trip!
We are a family of five, me, DH, and three children, DS1, DD and DS2 in their 20's. We are experienced travelers, but this was trip was our biggest travel adventure. We are all reasonably healthy, except that DH had a broken back and shoulder over the past few years. DS2 is a vegetarian. We stayed in two rooms, with the children sharing a triple. After extensive research (thanks to all who provided such helpful information) we booked our safari through Warrior Trails. Our itinerary was:
Day 1 Fly to London. Tower of London
Day 2 Fly to NBO
Day 3 Fly to JRO. Drive to Tarangire. Overnight at Tarangire River Camp
Day 4 Full day game drive at Tarangire with picnic lunch. Overnight at River Camp
Day 5 Cultural visit to Mto wa mbu (Mosquito Creek). Drive to Ngorongora Sopa Lodge Day 6 Early morning descent into Ngorongora Crater and full day game viewing. Overnight at Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge
Day 7 Visit Oldupai Gorge and Drive to Kirawira Tented Camp (changed to Serengeti Serena)
Day 8 Full day game drive in Serengeti and overnight at Kirawirs (Serengeti Serena)
Day 9 Game drive in central Serengeti. Overnight at Mbuzi Mawe tented camp
Day 10 Morning balloon ride and breakfast. Game drive en route to Lake Manyara
Day 11 Lake Manyara morning game drive, Drive to Arusha and transfer to JRO, begin travel home
In Nairobi, we stayed at the HIlton using Hilton Honors points, which was perfectly fine. We were not on the roads during weekday traffic times, so this was not a concern. We ordered room service (and our first Tuskers) when we arrived and then had a delicious buffet breakfast at the hotel in the morning. We walked around the corner to the Collector's Den and purchased a few souvenirs. We enjoyed the Collector's Den, which offered a fine selection of locally made items in a wide range of prices. The hotel doorman escorted us to the shop and arranged for an escort back. Then, since our flight schedule had changed and we had an unexpected couple of hours, we visited the Giraffe Centre in Nairobi. So much fun to feed the giraffes!
Highlights so far were seeing our son walking toward us at Heathrow--all together at last! --and the kids squealing in delight at giraffe "kisses".
Travel is hard, but the tired, worried, loss of control feelings pass.
We saw marabou stork, wagtail, lizard and wildebeest running.
John, the manager provided us with an orientation to the property which included this instruction: "In your room you will find a whistle that is to be used in an emergency. An emergency is when something is IN your tent. If you hear something growling or scratching or breaking branches OUTSIDE your tent--that is for your enjoyment."
Tuesday, 21 June--Top Ten Day--Tarangire National Park
From our tent we could hear the roar of lions and the rustling of other animals. DH and I woke early, before dawn, and sat outside on our porch. We could hear animals but not see them. Where they close or far away? No way to tell. Then, finally, there was enough light to see----our first elephant!!!
What a day it was! So many animals at every turn--too many to list but more than we could have dreamed of seeing. Highlights were twin baby elephants, a zebra family, two cheetahs at a distance, many elephants very close to us, mating baboons, secretary birds and so many other large, colorful, beautiful birds, giraffe, warthog, buffalo, baboa trees. For a bit in the afternoon we drove in an area where we did not see many animals, but flies. We learned later that our guides were hoping to find wild dogs.
It is difficult to describe how truly wonderful our day was, awesome, unforgettable, otherworldly, do not do it justice. Our daughter, in awe said, "really, who does this?" One of the top ten days of my life.
Monday, 20 June
Tonight we heard lions roar.
And saw wildebeest stampede.
Relaxed in the still air at the perfect temperature.
Enjoyed the smells and flavors of our first African curry at our open air dinner.
We have arrived at Tarangire River Camp. We arrived after dark and could tell right away that the camp was beautiful. The mosquito netting around the beds made us feel like royalty.
We are hoping for a very good day tomorrow because our days of travel have been very difficult.
Our original plan was to fly STL to JFK, 6 hour layover to meet DS1 in NYC, fly overnight to London. Enjoy one day and then overnight in London. Fly to NBO, overnight there, fly to JMO and meet our guide from Warrior Trails. On Friday, we flew STL to JFK. Due to bad weather at JFK, our plane was diverted to Rochester, NY. Almost 3 hours on the plane. Many more hours in the terminal with little or no information. Finally took off, more delays, and then just missed our flight to London. Except for DS1, who lives in NYC and was on the flight to London. So four of us spent a nearly sleepless night in NYC in noisy hotel rooms, while DS1 (who we had not seen for 6 months) spent the night in London. Arrived in Nairobi two hours late because of mechanical problem with the plane. Flight from Nairobi was rescheduled from 1 to 3 and was then an hour later. Clamian, owner of Warrior Trails, met us at the airport to tell us that he could not be our guide as planned because his wife was ill and in the hospital. We did not arrive at River Camp until 8:45. Our driver, Sam, was unhappy driving after dark. Our substitute guide-Elias-appears to have never been to River Camp before. Not the best start to our dream trip!
We are a family of five, me, DH, and three children, DS1, DD and DS2 in their 20's. We are experienced travelers, but this was trip was our biggest travel adventure. We are all reasonably healthy, except that DH had a broken back and shoulder over the past few years. DS2 is a vegetarian. We stayed in two rooms, with the children sharing a triple. After extensive research (thanks to all who provided such helpful information) we booked our safari through Warrior Trails. Our itinerary was:
Day 1 Fly to London. Tower of London
Day 2 Fly to NBO
Day 3 Fly to JRO. Drive to Tarangire. Overnight at Tarangire River Camp
Day 4 Full day game drive at Tarangire with picnic lunch. Overnight at River Camp
Day 5 Cultural visit to Mto wa mbu (Mosquito Creek). Drive to Ngorongora Sopa Lodge Day 6 Early morning descent into Ngorongora Crater and full day game viewing. Overnight at Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge
Day 7 Visit Oldupai Gorge and Drive to Kirawira Tented Camp (changed to Serengeti Serena)
Day 8 Full day game drive in Serengeti and overnight at Kirawirs (Serengeti Serena)
Day 9 Game drive in central Serengeti. Overnight at Mbuzi Mawe tented camp
Day 10 Morning balloon ride and breakfast. Game drive en route to Lake Manyara
Day 11 Lake Manyara morning game drive, Drive to Arusha and transfer to JRO, begin travel home
In Nairobi, we stayed at the HIlton using Hilton Honors points, which was perfectly fine. We were not on the roads during weekday traffic times, so this was not a concern. We ordered room service (and our first Tuskers) when we arrived and then had a delicious buffet breakfast at the hotel in the morning. We walked around the corner to the Collector's Den and purchased a few souvenirs. We enjoyed the Collector's Den, which offered a fine selection of locally made items in a wide range of prices. The hotel doorman escorted us to the shop and arranged for an escort back. Then, since our flight schedule had changed and we had an unexpected couple of hours, we visited the Giraffe Centre in Nairobi. So much fun to feed the giraffes!
Highlights so far were seeing our son walking toward us at Heathrow--all together at last! --and the kids squealing in delight at giraffe "kisses".
Travel is hard, but the tired, worried, loss of control feelings pass.
We saw marabou stork, wagtail, lizard and wildebeest running.
John, the manager provided us with an orientation to the property which included this instruction: "In your room you will find a whistle that is to be used in an emergency. An emergency is when something is IN your tent. If you hear something growling or scratching or breaking branches OUTSIDE your tent--that is for your enjoyment."
Tuesday, 21 June--Top Ten Day--Tarangire National Park
From our tent we could hear the roar of lions and the rustling of other animals. DH and I woke early, before dawn, and sat outside on our porch. We could hear animals but not see them. Where they close or far away? No way to tell. Then, finally, there was enough light to see----our first elephant!!!
What a day it was! So many animals at every turn--too many to list but more than we could have dreamed of seeing. Highlights were twin baby elephants, a zebra family, two cheetahs at a distance, many elephants very close to us, mating baboons, secretary birds and so many other large, colorful, beautiful birds, giraffe, warthog, buffalo, baboa trees. For a bit in the afternoon we drove in an area where we did not see many animals, but flies. We learned later that our guides were hoping to find wild dogs.
It is difficult to describe how truly wonderful our day was, awesome, unforgettable, otherworldly, do not do it justice. Our daughter, in awe said, "really, who does this?" One of the top ten days of my life.
Jul 22nd, 2011, 08:09 AM
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For sure no one can know ahead about delays in plane travel these days, but once in Africa, it's all worth it (after the frustration) as you learned.
Collector's Den is a great little shop, where we stopped first 17/yrs ago and on almost every visit since, leaving with bags of goodies! They've expanded the space and have just about everything with good prices.
And, then a giraffe "kiss"... way to go!
Once in Tanzania, I understand well that your new guide was apprehensive/not certain about getting to River Camp... it can be challenging, crossing the Tarangire River and then up an embankment, but once at the camp... WOW! Tents are lovely, as is public space, the grounds and the views from atop the river, fantastic. Here you can do bush walks and even night drives. It's a great start.
Often you'll find young boys actually bathing down in the river which is rather cute when tourists come upon them.
Kudos to you daughter! Yes, "really, who does this?" Lucky kids, and I can almost see your wide smile!
Looking forward to read more.
Collector's Den is a great little shop, where we stopped first 17/yrs ago and on almost every visit since, leaving with bags of goodies! They've expanded the space and have just about everything with good prices.
And, then a giraffe "kiss"... way to go!
Once in Tanzania, I understand well that your new guide was apprehensive/not certain about getting to River Camp... it can be challenging, crossing the Tarangire River and then up an embankment, but once at the camp... WOW! Tents are lovely, as is public space, the grounds and the views from atop the river, fantastic. Here you can do bush walks and even night drives. It's a great start.
Often you'll find young boys actually bathing down in the river which is rather cute when tourists come upon them.
Kudos to you daughter! Yes, "really, who does this?" Lucky kids, and I can almost see your wide smile!
Looking forward to read more.
Jul 22nd, 2011, 11:14 AM
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You already have your Quotes of the Trip with the manager's comment, "If you hear something growling or scratching or breaking branches OUTSIDE your tent--that is for your enjoyment."
And your daughter's comment, "really, who does this?"
Great start!
Hope Claiman's wife is ok.
And your daughter's comment, "really, who does this?"
Great start!
Hope Claiman's wife is ok.
Jul 22nd, 2011, 01:00 PM
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Wednesday, 22 June
We awoke to the sound of lions roaring. Elias told us that the Maasai translate the lions' roar as "Whose land is this? Whose land is this? Whose land is this? . . .Mine, mine, mine, mine." Listen carefully, and you are likely to hear this in the roars.
River Camp has a nice bird bath and they put out seed for the birds. We saw hornbills and love birds. We regularly saw elephants in the dry river bed. The River Camp was beautiful. It will always be special because it was our first African safari experience. We nearly had the camp to ourselves. The camp hosts, John and his wife, were very friendly and welcoming and the serve was excellent
After a hot breakfast, we set off for Ngorngoro Crater.
First we stopped by Mosquito River Village. This is the village where Elias lives.
We had a tour through the cultural tourism program that featured traditional home construction, banana beer making, rice cleaning, almond crushing and banana trees. We visited the school having summer session. There were lots of kids of different ages crowded onto wooden benches at tables in one large room. The teacher spoke to us for about twenty minutes and the students sang three songs for us. We left gifts of stickers for the students, pencils, soccer balls and soccer ball pump. This all felt a bit staged, but it was worth the hour or so that we spent on the tour.
DH did not want to take the walking tour so he stayed with Elias and Sam (our driver) and Elias's wife and they went for a refreshment at a small bar owned by the town councilman.
At Elias' suggestion we went to the monthly Maasai cattle auction. What a sight! Men in beautiful traditional Maasai dress. Goats and cattle all around. I bought a small painting and there were beads and a few other things for sale. We saw goats being slaughtered and cooked. Alongside the auction there was an area for refreshments and socializing. People gathered in circles, relaxing under the trees with beverages served from ice chests.
We stopped for our picnic lunch at a large shop that sold carved items. DS2 bought a drum and I bought an ebony nativity scene.
Next stop was Our Lady of the Apostles Catholic Church. At our request, Elias arranged a visit to a local church. We met with the pastor and parish priest who gave us a tour of the church and told us about the parish. The church building was very large. It had been established by Irish Catholic missionaries. The parish has 12 primary schools with at least 300 students each plus 22 secondary schools. The cost is $500 per student per year. The school is subsidized by the church.
Then we drove to the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. There were many switchbacks as we travelled up in altitude. It was misting a bit. Dinner was excellent, one of our best meals (zucchini soup, fish, vegetables, ice cream) The Sopa Lodge could use a little sprucing up, but the food very good and service was attentive. Loved the hot water bottles in the beds! Our waiter's name was Edson. We met him when DH and I went for tea before dinner. He must have studied the guest list because he knew that he would be our waiter.
Not so many animals today: love birds, hornbill, zebra, bushbuck, baboons.
Thursday, 23 June--Ngorongoro Crater.
As Elias suggested, we got an early start and left the lodge at about 6 am. We did not stop to take pictures of elephants, birds, zebras or such so that we could be one of the first cars on the crater floor. We were rewarded with a wonderful day. The highlight of the day was the lions. We saw a stunning pride of 19 lions. We saw other lions, including mating and lions stalking and hunting zebra. We stayed with the lions for a long time, but never saw them try to bring down the zebra.
We also saw hippos (they smell!), 4 rhinos, of less than 25 that live in the crater, a serval cat, a large bull elephant walking on a wooded hillside, jackal, zebra, hyena and thousands of wildebeest. Saw spoonbill, heron, flamingo, crowned crane. We first saw the rhinos laying down in the grass at a distance. We were happy to see them. Elias suggested that we come back later when they might be standing. When we returned to the area, we saw one of the rhinos, a baby standing. Elias suggested that he would get the mother to stand also, and sure enough, this is what happened.
Elias worked hard to make our experience all that it could be. Each evening we met just before dinner to discuss the plan for the next day. Though Elias was a last minute substitute, we couldn't have been happier with him. Elias was one of the first Africans hired to work at the national park service. He worked his way up until he was superintendent of the parks, including Serengeti National Park. He was a wonderful companion for our safari as he balanced letting us enjoy the wonder of it all at our own pace (which sometimes involved stopping to photograph every animal and bird) with keeping us on a pace that he knew from experience would maximize our viewing opportunities. He knows the parks and animals so well that he can go to the best places and predict what the animals will do next. We enjoyed his stories about his Maasai childhood and chasing poachers in the parks. He is an expert on African birds, which was wonderful since DH and I were interested in the birds. Actually, the birds were so striking, we all enjoyed them.
Elias is very happy with what we saw today and said that perhaps the crater would be the highlight of our trip.
Friday, 24 June--Rolling with the punches.
The day began with great promise. We headed out for Kirawira, expecting a long but doable drive time of about 5 hours. When we set our itinerary with Warrior Trails, we were predicting that the migration would be in the western Serengeti. We chose the Kirawira tented camp, based on the information on this forum (thanks, again!) and expected it to be our nicest camp. We had originally hoped to stay there for three nights, but they were full one of the nights so we had arranged through Warrior Trails to spend two nights there and then move to the central Serengeti.
We saw beautiful lions very near the road in the fog. This turned out to be the highlight of the day.
A problem developed with the car--we had lost a shock absorber on the right front tire. Of course this made the road even bumpier and dustier than we expected.
We had planned to stop at the Serengeti Serena for lunch at 1:30. We had arranged this the night before when we decided that we wanted to try to avoid a boxed lunch. The boxed lunches are convenient since they allowed us to spend a full day out on the game drives, but the boxed lunches are becoming tiresome. Our first boxed lunch from River Camp was cold lasagna. The second day we had some ground meat in a wrap. Anyway, we had decided to go to the Serengeti Serena for lunch, even though we would need to pay for it, rather than taking another boxed lunch. I would certainly take a boxed lunch when it improves the game drives.
But the problem with the car slowed us down. We waited for an hour at the entrance gate to the Serengeti so that Sam, our driver, could make a temporary repair. The plan was to make this temporary repair to allow us to drive on to the Serengeti Serena where a more permanent repair could be made. We arrived for lunch at 2:45. We immediately liked the Serengeti Serena and decided to just stay if we could.
Elias had learned from other guides that the migration had moved from the western Serengeti to the north central Serengeti. So the wildebeest and zebra were actually closer to the Serengeti Serena than to the Kirawira. We decided to just stay there and avoid 2 more hours of drive time each way. We talked with Elias about this and he thought that is was a good plan, since we could just as easily or more easily drive from the Serena to the migration. He also said that we would be in good cat territory. DH checked at the front desk and learned that rooms were available. I called Emmanuel at Warrior Trails and he said that he thought that the Serena was full, but that he would try. Emmanuel made several phone calls and we were all set. Our balloon ride was switched from the Kirawira site to the central Serengeti site. We were grateful to Warrior Trails for being able to make this last minute switch for us. Those of you who have stayed at Kirawira may think that we missed out on something special, but it was a good decision for us.
This lodge was the favorite of some of us. It offers a pool, sunset observation deck, views from the deck across the Serengeti, internet cafe with reasonable rates and nice bar and restaurant. We had an opportunity to visit with other guests. Food was served buffet style with an excellent selection.
Saw hartebeest, dikdik on site at the camp. Watched the sunset from the observation deck. We hoped to see the southern hemisphere sky, but most nights were cloudy. We did get to see a few stars, including a kite shaped group.
We awoke to the sound of lions roaring. Elias told us that the Maasai translate the lions' roar as "Whose land is this? Whose land is this? Whose land is this? . . .Mine, mine, mine, mine." Listen carefully, and you are likely to hear this in the roars.
River Camp has a nice bird bath and they put out seed for the birds. We saw hornbills and love birds. We regularly saw elephants in the dry river bed. The River Camp was beautiful. It will always be special because it was our first African safari experience. We nearly had the camp to ourselves. The camp hosts, John and his wife, were very friendly and welcoming and the serve was excellent
After a hot breakfast, we set off for Ngorngoro Crater.
First we stopped by Mosquito River Village. This is the village where Elias lives.
We had a tour through the cultural tourism program that featured traditional home construction, banana beer making, rice cleaning, almond crushing and banana trees. We visited the school having summer session. There were lots of kids of different ages crowded onto wooden benches at tables in one large room. The teacher spoke to us for about twenty minutes and the students sang three songs for us. We left gifts of stickers for the students, pencils, soccer balls and soccer ball pump. This all felt a bit staged, but it was worth the hour or so that we spent on the tour.
DH did not want to take the walking tour so he stayed with Elias and Sam (our driver) and Elias's wife and they went for a refreshment at a small bar owned by the town councilman.
At Elias' suggestion we went to the monthly Maasai cattle auction. What a sight! Men in beautiful traditional Maasai dress. Goats and cattle all around. I bought a small painting and there were beads and a few other things for sale. We saw goats being slaughtered and cooked. Alongside the auction there was an area for refreshments and socializing. People gathered in circles, relaxing under the trees with beverages served from ice chests.
We stopped for our picnic lunch at a large shop that sold carved items. DS2 bought a drum and I bought an ebony nativity scene.
Next stop was Our Lady of the Apostles Catholic Church. At our request, Elias arranged a visit to a local church. We met with the pastor and parish priest who gave us a tour of the church and told us about the parish. The church building was very large. It had been established by Irish Catholic missionaries. The parish has 12 primary schools with at least 300 students each plus 22 secondary schools. The cost is $500 per student per year. The school is subsidized by the church.
Then we drove to the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. There were many switchbacks as we travelled up in altitude. It was misting a bit. Dinner was excellent, one of our best meals (zucchini soup, fish, vegetables, ice cream) The Sopa Lodge could use a little sprucing up, but the food very good and service was attentive. Loved the hot water bottles in the beds! Our waiter's name was Edson. We met him when DH and I went for tea before dinner. He must have studied the guest list because he knew that he would be our waiter.
Not so many animals today: love birds, hornbill, zebra, bushbuck, baboons.
Thursday, 23 June--Ngorongoro Crater.
As Elias suggested, we got an early start and left the lodge at about 6 am. We did not stop to take pictures of elephants, birds, zebras or such so that we could be one of the first cars on the crater floor. We were rewarded with a wonderful day. The highlight of the day was the lions. We saw a stunning pride of 19 lions. We saw other lions, including mating and lions stalking and hunting zebra. We stayed with the lions for a long time, but never saw them try to bring down the zebra.
We also saw hippos (they smell!), 4 rhinos, of less than 25 that live in the crater, a serval cat, a large bull elephant walking on a wooded hillside, jackal, zebra, hyena and thousands of wildebeest. Saw spoonbill, heron, flamingo, crowned crane. We first saw the rhinos laying down in the grass at a distance. We were happy to see them. Elias suggested that we come back later when they might be standing. When we returned to the area, we saw one of the rhinos, a baby standing. Elias suggested that he would get the mother to stand also, and sure enough, this is what happened.
Elias worked hard to make our experience all that it could be. Each evening we met just before dinner to discuss the plan for the next day. Though Elias was a last minute substitute, we couldn't have been happier with him. Elias was one of the first Africans hired to work at the national park service. He worked his way up until he was superintendent of the parks, including Serengeti National Park. He was a wonderful companion for our safari as he balanced letting us enjoy the wonder of it all at our own pace (which sometimes involved stopping to photograph every animal and bird) with keeping us on a pace that he knew from experience would maximize our viewing opportunities. He knows the parks and animals so well that he can go to the best places and predict what the animals will do next. We enjoyed his stories about his Maasai childhood and chasing poachers in the parks. He is an expert on African birds, which was wonderful since DH and I were interested in the birds. Actually, the birds were so striking, we all enjoyed them.
Elias is very happy with what we saw today and said that perhaps the crater would be the highlight of our trip.
Friday, 24 June--Rolling with the punches.
The day began with great promise. We headed out for Kirawira, expecting a long but doable drive time of about 5 hours. When we set our itinerary with Warrior Trails, we were predicting that the migration would be in the western Serengeti. We chose the Kirawira tented camp, based on the information on this forum (thanks, again!) and expected it to be our nicest camp. We had originally hoped to stay there for three nights, but they were full one of the nights so we had arranged through Warrior Trails to spend two nights there and then move to the central Serengeti.
We saw beautiful lions very near the road in the fog. This turned out to be the highlight of the day.
A problem developed with the car--we had lost a shock absorber on the right front tire. Of course this made the road even bumpier and dustier than we expected.
We had planned to stop at the Serengeti Serena for lunch at 1:30. We had arranged this the night before when we decided that we wanted to try to avoid a boxed lunch. The boxed lunches are convenient since they allowed us to spend a full day out on the game drives, but the boxed lunches are becoming tiresome. Our first boxed lunch from River Camp was cold lasagna. The second day we had some ground meat in a wrap. Anyway, we had decided to go to the Serengeti Serena for lunch, even though we would need to pay for it, rather than taking another boxed lunch. I would certainly take a boxed lunch when it improves the game drives.
But the problem with the car slowed us down. We waited for an hour at the entrance gate to the Serengeti so that Sam, our driver, could make a temporary repair. The plan was to make this temporary repair to allow us to drive on to the Serengeti Serena where a more permanent repair could be made. We arrived for lunch at 2:45. We immediately liked the Serengeti Serena and decided to just stay if we could.
Elias had learned from other guides that the migration had moved from the western Serengeti to the north central Serengeti. So the wildebeest and zebra were actually closer to the Serengeti Serena than to the Kirawira. We decided to just stay there and avoid 2 more hours of drive time each way. We talked with Elias about this and he thought that is was a good plan, since we could just as easily or more easily drive from the Serena to the migration. He also said that we would be in good cat territory. DH checked at the front desk and learned that rooms were available. I called Emmanuel at Warrior Trails and he said that he thought that the Serena was full, but that he would try. Emmanuel made several phone calls and we were all set. Our balloon ride was switched from the Kirawira site to the central Serengeti site. We were grateful to Warrior Trails for being able to make this last minute switch for us. Those of you who have stayed at Kirawira may think that we missed out on something special, but it was a good decision for us.
This lodge was the favorite of some of us. It offers a pool, sunset observation deck, views from the deck across the Serengeti, internet cafe with reasonable rates and nice bar and restaurant. We had an opportunity to visit with other guests. Food was served buffet style with an excellent selection.
Saw hartebeest, dikdik on site at the camp. Watched the sunset from the observation deck. We hoped to see the southern hemisphere sky, but most nights were cloudy. We did get to see a few stars, including a kite shaped group.
Jul 22nd, 2011, 01:03 PM
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Thank you for your feedback!
Clamian's wife improved before we left. They are expecting a child.
I agree that River Camp was a wonderful start to our safari. It was a great suggestion to begin there.
Clamian's wife improved before we left. They are expecting a child.
I agree that River Camp was a wonderful start to our safari. It was a great suggestion to begin there.
Jul 22nd, 2011, 07:05 PM
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Hey jangonow thanks for the report "from the field"!
Really enjoying hearing about your impressions since I traveled pretty much the same route just last month with Warrior Trails.
Jealous about all those lions you're seeing AND a serval!! Wow!
So glad to hear Clamian's wife is feeling better. Elias most likely speaks with Clamian nightly so please pass along best wishes from Kathee in Vancouver.
Really enjoying hearing about your impressions since I traveled pretty much the same route just last month with Warrior Trails.
Jealous about all those lions you're seeing AND a serval!! Wow!
So glad to hear Clamian's wife is feeling better. Elias most likely speaks with Clamian nightly so please pass along best wishes from Kathee in Vancouver.
Jul 23rd, 2011, 06:25 PM
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Part 3
Saturday, 25 June--Serengeti
Drove to see the migration north of the Serengeti Serena.
On the way, stopped to watch two male gazelle fighting for a herd.
Saw tens of thousands of wildebeest and zebras.
We stopped for a picnic lunch at the top of a hill. From this point we could see wildebeest in all directions. Elias said, "no where else on the earth can you see such a sight as this." DD posted on Facebook: "finding wildebeest in the migration is like finding hay in a haystack."
We ate dinner outdoors and it was so enjoyable. We heard a thud and a large bug landed near our table. A member of the staff came by and told DD that she did not need to be afraid, that it was a dung beetle. DD ended up holding it. He sang three songs for us with his guitar. Simply idyllic.
Sunday, 26 June
Overnight, the migration had moved in our direction. So while we had driven to see them yesterday, today they were surrounding the Mbuzi Mawe camp where we would be staying. We were staying literally in the middle of the migration. We saw a line of zebras that was a mile long. And wildebeest on all sides, everywhere we looked. Tonight we would sleep to the sound of the wildebeest.
Our plan for the day was to go and look for cats. We had seen all of the Big 5 and the Big 9 expect for the leopard, which Elias had told us would be the most unlikely for us to see. DS1 especially wanted to see a leopard, so Elias suggested that this would be a good day. We set out early in the morning and before long, we saw a gazelle handing from a tree. A leopard had killed the gazelle and put it in the tree. After waiting a while, we began talking about moving on, but then Sam spotted the leopard. It climbed the tree and was trying to move the gazelle, but it dropped to the ground. We saw the leopard retrieve the gazelle and take it back up in the tree. We enjoyed the show for quite some time.
Then we moved on to another spot where we saw one, two, three! leopards under another tree with a gazelle. What fun it was to watch the leopard and two cubs moving about! A cub dropped the gazelle and the mom retrieved it.
After lunch, just DS1 and I went out with Sam and Elias for a short game drive. Elias said that we would look for birds, but actually we went to an are where he hoped we might see cheetahs, but we did not see any predators. DH, DD and DS2 relaxed at camp. DD sat out on the deck on a zebra print lounger, listening to the wildebeest.
Another great day. We spent the night at the Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp. We had seen the camp the day before because we used it for restroom breaks. It was only about an hour from the Serena. The camp did not look as nice as the River Camp on the outside, but the tents were larger and the furnishings more luxurious. I was built on a hill so there was a bit more walking to get to the tents and the dining room, but by this time the walking was more than welcome. It was nice to get away from the Serena buffets and have table service. A cape buffalo was standing just a few feet away from one of the tents on the opposite side of the camp. The rifles carried by our escorts were out and ready, but fortunately not needed.
Saturday, 25 June--Serengeti
Drove to see the migration north of the Serengeti Serena.
On the way, stopped to watch two male gazelle fighting for a herd.
Saw tens of thousands of wildebeest and zebras.
We stopped for a picnic lunch at the top of a hill. From this point we could see wildebeest in all directions. Elias said, "no where else on the earth can you see such a sight as this." DD posted on Facebook: "finding wildebeest in the migration is like finding hay in a haystack."
We ate dinner outdoors and it was so enjoyable. We heard a thud and a large bug landed near our table. A member of the staff came by and told DD that she did not need to be afraid, that it was a dung beetle. DD ended up holding it. He sang three songs for us with his guitar. Simply idyllic.
Sunday, 26 June
Overnight, the migration had moved in our direction. So while we had driven to see them yesterday, today they were surrounding the Mbuzi Mawe camp where we would be staying. We were staying literally in the middle of the migration. We saw a line of zebras that was a mile long. And wildebeest on all sides, everywhere we looked. Tonight we would sleep to the sound of the wildebeest.
Our plan for the day was to go and look for cats. We had seen all of the Big 5 and the Big 9 expect for the leopard, which Elias had told us would be the most unlikely for us to see. DS1 especially wanted to see a leopard, so Elias suggested that this would be a good day. We set out early in the morning and before long, we saw a gazelle handing from a tree. A leopard had killed the gazelle and put it in the tree. After waiting a while, we began talking about moving on, but then Sam spotted the leopard. It climbed the tree and was trying to move the gazelle, but it dropped to the ground. We saw the leopard retrieve the gazelle and take it back up in the tree. We enjoyed the show for quite some time.
Then we moved on to another spot where we saw one, two, three! leopards under another tree with a gazelle. What fun it was to watch the leopard and two cubs moving about! A cub dropped the gazelle and the mom retrieved it.
After lunch, just DS1 and I went out with Sam and Elias for a short game drive. Elias said that we would look for birds, but actually we went to an are where he hoped we might see cheetahs, but we did not see any predators. DH, DD and DS2 relaxed at camp. DD sat out on the deck on a zebra print lounger, listening to the wildebeest.
Another great day. We spent the night at the Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp. We had seen the camp the day before because we used it for restroom breaks. It was only about an hour from the Serena. The camp did not look as nice as the River Camp on the outside, but the tents were larger and the furnishings more luxurious. I was built on a hill so there was a bit more walking to get to the tents and the dining room, but by this time the walking was more than welcome. It was nice to get away from the Serena buffets and have table service. A cape buffalo was standing just a few feet away from one of the tents on the opposite side of the camp. The rifles carried by our escorts were out and ready, but fortunately not needed.
Jul 23rd, 2011, 06:25 PM
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Part 3
Saturday, 25 June--Serengeti
Drove to see the migration north of the Serengeti Serena.
On the way, stopped to watch two male gazelle fighting for a herd.
Saw tens of thousands of wildebeest and zebras.
We stopped for a picnic lunch at the top of a hill. From this point we could see wildebeest in all directions. Elias said, "no where else on the earth can you see such a sight as this." DD posted on Facebook: "finding wildebeest in the migration is like finding hay in a haystack."
We ate dinner outdoors and it was so enjoyable. We heard a thud and a large bug landed near our table. A member of the staff came by and told DD that she did not need to be afraid, that it was a dung beetle. DD ended up holding it. He sang three songs for us with his guitar. Simply idyllic.
Sunday, 26 June
Overnight, the migration had moved in our direction. So while we had driven to see them yesterday, today they were surrounding the Mbuzi Mawe camp where we would be staying. We were staying literally in the middle of the migration. We saw a line of zebras that was a mile long. And wildebeest on all sides, everywhere we looked. Tonight we would sleep to the sound of the wildebeest.
Our plan for the day was to go and look for cats. We had seen all of the Big 5 and the Big 9 expect for the leopard, which Elias had told us would be the most unlikely for us to see. DS1 especially wanted to see a leopard, so Elias suggested that this would be a good day. We set out early in the morning and before long, we saw a gazelle handing from a tree. A leopard had killed the gazelle and put it in the tree. After waiting a while, we began talking about moving on, but then Sam spotted the leopard. It climbed the tree and was trying to move the gazelle, but it dropped to the ground. We saw the leopard retrieve the gazelle and take it back up in the tree. We enjoyed the show for quite some time.
Then we moved on to another spot where we saw one, two, three! leopards under another tree with a gazelle. What fun it was to watch the leopard and two cubs moving about! A cub dropped the gazelle and the mom retrieved it.
After lunch, just DS1 and I went out with Sam and Elias for a short game drive. Elias said that we would look for birds, but actually we went to an are where he hoped we might see cheetahs, but we did not see any predators. DH, DD and DS2 relaxed at camp. DD sat out on the deck on a zebra print lounger, listening to the wildebeest.
Another great day. We spent the night at the Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp. We had seen the camp the day before because we used it for restroom breaks. It was only about an hour from the Serena. The camp did not look as nice as the River Camp on the outside, but the tents were larger and the furnishings more luxurious. I was built on a hill so there was a bit more walking to get to the tents and the dining room, but by this time the walking was more than welcome. It was nice to get away from the Serena buffets and have table service. A cape buffalo was standing just a few feet away from one of the tents on the opposite side of the camp. The rifles carried by our escorts were out and ready, but fortunately not needed.
Saturday, 25 June--Serengeti
Drove to see the migration north of the Serengeti Serena.
On the way, stopped to watch two male gazelle fighting for a herd.
Saw tens of thousands of wildebeest and zebras.
We stopped for a picnic lunch at the top of a hill. From this point we could see wildebeest in all directions. Elias said, "no where else on the earth can you see such a sight as this." DD posted on Facebook: "finding wildebeest in the migration is like finding hay in a haystack."
We ate dinner outdoors and it was so enjoyable. We heard a thud and a large bug landed near our table. A member of the staff came by and told DD that she did not need to be afraid, that it was a dung beetle. DD ended up holding it. He sang three songs for us with his guitar. Simply idyllic.
Sunday, 26 June
Overnight, the migration had moved in our direction. So while we had driven to see them yesterday, today they were surrounding the Mbuzi Mawe camp where we would be staying. We were staying literally in the middle of the migration. We saw a line of zebras that was a mile long. And wildebeest on all sides, everywhere we looked. Tonight we would sleep to the sound of the wildebeest.
Our plan for the day was to go and look for cats. We had seen all of the Big 5 and the Big 9 expect for the leopard, which Elias had told us would be the most unlikely for us to see. DS1 especially wanted to see a leopard, so Elias suggested that this would be a good day. We set out early in the morning and before long, we saw a gazelle handing from a tree. A leopard had killed the gazelle and put it in the tree. After waiting a while, we began talking about moving on, but then Sam spotted the leopard. It climbed the tree and was trying to move the gazelle, but it dropped to the ground. We saw the leopard retrieve the gazelle and take it back up in the tree. We enjoyed the show for quite some time.
Then we moved on to another spot where we saw one, two, three! leopards under another tree with a gazelle. What fun it was to watch the leopard and two cubs moving about! A cub dropped the gazelle and the mom retrieved it.
After lunch, just DS1 and I went out with Sam and Elias for a short game drive. Elias said that we would look for birds, but actually we went to an are where he hoped we might see cheetahs, but we did not see any predators. DH, DD and DS2 relaxed at camp. DD sat out on the deck on a zebra print lounger, listening to the wildebeest.
Another great day. We spent the night at the Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp. We had seen the camp the day before because we used it for restroom breaks. It was only about an hour from the Serena. The camp did not look as nice as the River Camp on the outside, but the tents were larger and the furnishings more luxurious. I was built on a hill so there was a bit more walking to get to the tents and the dining room, but by this time the walking was more than welcome. It was nice to get away from the Serena buffets and have table service. A cape buffalo was standing just a few feet away from one of the tents on the opposite side of the camp. The rifles carried by our escorts were out and ready, but fortunately not needed.
Jul 24th, 2011, 06:49 AM
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I am loving your trip report. Your first lines are perfect.."Tonight we heard lions roar."
Truly sounds like a trip of a lifetime.
We are excitely awaiting our 1st this Sept. Not in the same area. We will be in SA, but none the less exciting. I love your enthusiasm and appreciation for what you are seeing.
Looking forward to the rest of your report. Good job!
Truly sounds like a trip of a lifetime.
We are excitely awaiting our 1st this Sept. Not in the same area. We will be in SA, but none the less exciting. I love your enthusiasm and appreciation for what you are seeing.
Looking forward to the rest of your report. Good job!
Jul 25th, 2011, 01:57 AM
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Sorry about the double posting--fodors glitched.
The "Big Five" are Buffalo, Elephant, Leopard, Lion and Rhinoceros. The "Big Nine" extends this to include Cheetah, Zebra, Giraffe and Hippo. I had not heard of the "Big Nine" before our guide mentioned it.
Cristeen, thank you for the encouragement and I hope you are enjoying your last weeks of planning.
The "Big Five" are Buffalo, Elephant, Leopard, Lion and Rhinoceros. The "Big Nine" extends this to include Cheetah, Zebra, Giraffe and Hippo. I had not heard of the "Big Nine" before our guide mentioned it.
Cristeen, thank you for the encouragement and I hope you are enjoying your last weeks of planning.
Jul 25th, 2011, 02:22 PM
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According to one guide we had, 'Big Five' was a term given to animals that were dangerous to humans. They were the 5 that most often took Africans. Western definitions say 'Big Five' is a term given to the most difficult animals to hunt.
The Western definition falls apart with the ease one could hunt 3 of those 5, and even a lion should be easy to hunt as they sleep much of the day.
jangonow,
I believe I, along with another 30+ 4x4s in the Central Serengeti, was at your leopard sighting on the 26th. I missed the dropping of the gazelle(we thought it was an Impala) but did watch the two youngsters almost drop it as they played. Mom appeared asleep on the other side of the tree by the time we arrived
The Western definition falls apart with the ease one could hunt 3 of those 5, and even a lion should be easy to hunt as they sleep much of the day.
jangonow,
I believe I, along with another 30+ 4x4s in the Central Serengeti, was at your leopard sighting on the 26th. I missed the dropping of the gazelle(we thought it was an Impala) but did watch the two youngsters almost drop it as they played. Mom appeared asleep on the other side of the tree by the time we arrived
Jul 27th, 2011, 06:59 PM
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FrankS, I checked the photos, and you are right--it does look like an impala. There were no more than 8 or 10 cars when we were there, so perhaps we left before you arrived. What a show the leopards gave us!
Part 4
Monday, 27 June Up, Up and Away
Who would have predicted that the kids would have been up for a 4:00 am wake up call! But for a hot air balloon ride, we did it. We were packed and departed from the tents with all our things at 4:20. Then a light breakfast and off with our driver, Armani, to the launch site.
We looked forward to the drive and a chance to see nocturnal animals. We did see hippos out grazing. But we also had a scary encounter. As we were driving, we could see ahead of us a vehicle that was stopped. About 10-12 people were moving around, agitated and talking all at once. They waved to our driver to stop and then some of the men spoke to him through his rolled down window. We could see a woman lying on the ground who was crying and bleeding. We could not understand them so we were concerned about what was happening. Armani explained that the people had been at a party and were "full of alcohol". The woman had fallen out of the vehicle and was injured but the people were confused and did not know what to do. We gave them water and first aid supplies and Armani told them where to take the woman for medical treatment. Her injuries did not appear to be serious. Alcohol and vehicles are a bad combination everywhere.
We arrived at the balloon site and met our pilot. He had piloted balloons all over the world, including the United Van Lines balloon in St. Louis. The balloon held 16 passengers in a basket designed like an egg crate. The basket was laying on its side. The balloon was inflated and we got into the basket. The launch was easy, the ride was very peaceful and lasted about an hour. We saw hippos, gazelle, zebra, hyena, wildebeest and some birds from over the top of the nest. The landing was smooth and we did not tip over. When DH asked for instructions on how to get out of the balloon, five staff members just lifted him out! It happened so fast we missed the photo op! The ride was thrilling. Upon landing our pilot told us a bit about the early history of ballooning and we celebrated our ride with a traditional champagne toast. We rode to a beautiful breakfast under a large tree. White linen table clothes, silver, a hand washing station, a loo with a view, more champagne and a full breakfast.
Elias and Sam were waiting for us as arranged. Then we were off towards Lake Manyara. We stopped at the Oldupai Gorge site for about an hour, which we felt was about the right amount of time. We looked through the small museum and listened to a brief lecture about the site. The early wake up call caught up with us and some snoozed through the talk. We stopped for lunch at the Ngorongoro Serena. The property was nice, but with more stairs than the Sopa. It had a better view of the crater floor, but we felt that we made the right choice to stay at the Sopa because of its convenient location to the access road and the quicker descent. It was a nice stop and good to get a last look at the crater floor.
After we left the Ngorongoro Conservation area we started seeing things that we had seen before, like the shop where we stopped for lunch after the Maasai cattle auction and Mosquito River Village. We had time at the Lake Manyara Serena Lodge for a few beverages before dinner. This property had a fine pool, but otherwise was not as nice as our other properties. No escorts were necessary here, because we were told that the large animals did not come onto the property, except for the baboon, which were not dangerous. An hour of so later, DH and I were in the room when we heard shrieks and laughs from the kids. A baboon had chased them!
Tuesday, 28 June
We took a two hour game drive in Lake Manyara National Park. After all we had seen, this park was ho-hum. It is different because it is forest, fed by underground streams. But here there were just a few animals of each type, such as warthog, wildebeest, giraffe, elephant, zebra. The highlights were the large groups of very active monkeys and baboons, including the blue monkey, and the birds, including hornbill. We enjoyed watching the monkeys play, fight and jump from tree to tree. The path to the hippo pool was blocked by trees that elephants had pulled down. Other posters have suggested that unless one is interested in birds, Lake Manyara can be missed, and we agree with that.
After lunch, we set out for Arusha. We did some shopping including a stop at the "cultural center" and bought tanzanite, t shirts and an overpriced guinea fowl pillow that we just had to have.
We went by the Warrior Trails office to see Clamian, Emmanuel, Boniface (a tour director).
Then it was off to JRO where we said good by to Elias and Sam, and began the long trip home.
To come--final thoughts.
Part 4
Monday, 27 June Up, Up and Away
Who would have predicted that the kids would have been up for a 4:00 am wake up call! But for a hot air balloon ride, we did it. We were packed and departed from the tents with all our things at 4:20. Then a light breakfast and off with our driver, Armani, to the launch site.
We looked forward to the drive and a chance to see nocturnal animals. We did see hippos out grazing. But we also had a scary encounter. As we were driving, we could see ahead of us a vehicle that was stopped. About 10-12 people were moving around, agitated and talking all at once. They waved to our driver to stop and then some of the men spoke to him through his rolled down window. We could see a woman lying on the ground who was crying and bleeding. We could not understand them so we were concerned about what was happening. Armani explained that the people had been at a party and were "full of alcohol". The woman had fallen out of the vehicle and was injured but the people were confused and did not know what to do. We gave them water and first aid supplies and Armani told them where to take the woman for medical treatment. Her injuries did not appear to be serious. Alcohol and vehicles are a bad combination everywhere.
We arrived at the balloon site and met our pilot. He had piloted balloons all over the world, including the United Van Lines balloon in St. Louis. The balloon held 16 passengers in a basket designed like an egg crate. The basket was laying on its side. The balloon was inflated and we got into the basket. The launch was easy, the ride was very peaceful and lasted about an hour. We saw hippos, gazelle, zebra, hyena, wildebeest and some birds from over the top of the nest. The landing was smooth and we did not tip over. When DH asked for instructions on how to get out of the balloon, five staff members just lifted him out! It happened so fast we missed the photo op! The ride was thrilling. Upon landing our pilot told us a bit about the early history of ballooning and we celebrated our ride with a traditional champagne toast. We rode to a beautiful breakfast under a large tree. White linen table clothes, silver, a hand washing station, a loo with a view, more champagne and a full breakfast.
Elias and Sam were waiting for us as arranged. Then we were off towards Lake Manyara. We stopped at the Oldupai Gorge site for about an hour, which we felt was about the right amount of time. We looked through the small museum and listened to a brief lecture about the site. The early wake up call caught up with us and some snoozed through the talk. We stopped for lunch at the Ngorongoro Serena. The property was nice, but with more stairs than the Sopa. It had a better view of the crater floor, but we felt that we made the right choice to stay at the Sopa because of its convenient location to the access road and the quicker descent. It was a nice stop and good to get a last look at the crater floor.
After we left the Ngorongoro Conservation area we started seeing things that we had seen before, like the shop where we stopped for lunch after the Maasai cattle auction and Mosquito River Village. We had time at the Lake Manyara Serena Lodge for a few beverages before dinner. This property had a fine pool, but otherwise was not as nice as our other properties. No escorts were necessary here, because we were told that the large animals did not come onto the property, except for the baboon, which were not dangerous. An hour of so later, DH and I were in the room when we heard shrieks and laughs from the kids. A baboon had chased them!
Tuesday, 28 June
We took a two hour game drive in Lake Manyara National Park. After all we had seen, this park was ho-hum. It is different because it is forest, fed by underground streams. But here there were just a few animals of each type, such as warthog, wildebeest, giraffe, elephant, zebra. The highlights were the large groups of very active monkeys and baboons, including the blue monkey, and the birds, including hornbill. We enjoyed watching the monkeys play, fight and jump from tree to tree. The path to the hippo pool was blocked by trees that elephants had pulled down. Other posters have suggested that unless one is interested in birds, Lake Manyara can be missed, and we agree with that.
After lunch, we set out for Arusha. We did some shopping including a stop at the "cultural center" and bought tanzanite, t shirts and an overpriced guinea fowl pillow that we just had to have.
We went by the Warrior Trails office to see Clamian, Emmanuel, Boniface (a tour director).
Then it was off to JRO where we said good by to Elias and Sam, and began the long trip home.
To come--final thoughts.
Jul 31st, 2011, 05:44 PM
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"Alcohol and vehicles are a bad combination everywhere." Amen!
You had some nice balloon sightings.
I take it you could not see the hippos milling around the hippo pool at Manyara due to the downed trees.
Looking forward to the final thoughts.
You had some nice balloon sightings.
I take it you could not see the hippos milling around the hippo pool at Manyara due to the downed trees.
Looking forward to the final thoughts.
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