Day One (Two and Three)

Flight from Detroit to Heathrow on British Airways economy plus. Glad we paid for the upgrade and those extra few inches. Arrived on time at Heathrow. This year we just stayed at the airport and it was long but we found a quiet spot to put out heads down for a while. Flight for Johannesburg left on time. Two glasses of wine with dinner, sleeping pill and my noise reducing headsets (among my best purchases ever!!) and I slept for more than half the flight. Johannesburg was not too bad, only one other flight landed at the same time as us. We had booked our trip using CCAfrica so we were met at the airport and driven to the Protea Balalaika in Sandton. The lobby was busy but Wendy our agent had arranged for our room to be ready so we checked in immediately.

This is a nice hotel in a nice part of the city. I think many of the aircrews use it so it always seems busy. The rooms are a good size with a wonderful shower and bathtub. After two days of traveling, that first shower is perfect. That day was a bit of a fog. Weather was good so we wandered the various shopping centres, crashed for a bit, had a great pasta dinner and hit the sack by 7:30!!.

Day Four

Up early and big healthy breakfast. First time I had felt hungry since we left. Wyatt, our driver from the day before picked us up and drove us back to the airport. It was a bank holiday so it was a quick drive and the airport was not too busy. Our flight to Maun on Air Botswana left on time and we were in Maun by 11:40. Our guide for the safari, Okwa whom we stayed in touch with after our last trip met us at the airport so it was wonderful to see him again. The safari didn’t start until the next day so we spent the night at the Motsentsela Tree Lodge just outside Maun.

This is a great place to warm up to the safari. It’s on 200 hectares of fenced property so there are various antelope, birds etc but no predators. The best part is that there are several walking trails so you can just wander around by yourself. Bruce and I stood about 100 feet from several giraffe , black springbok, and kudu. It’s also nice to walk around outside. The accommodations are permanent large tents on platforms. Big bed, tub, outside shower overall very plush. There’s a pool and many comfy places to sit in the main building. There is a big deck around the huge Motsentsela tree. It was much hotter and drier than Johannesburg had been. We had a wonderful dinner at the big table with the other guests. I think there were about ten of us in total. I can’t remember but I think the maximum is twelve or fourteen. Again, an early night, there is something about a great meal and the African sky that sends me to sleep!

Day Five

UP early, the sound of all the birds woke us up early and it was loud. Living in the city makes one appreciate these things. It was cool so we wore long pants and a fleece for breakfast, much to the amusement of the other guests. I guess they thought that as we are Canadians we have a much higher tolerance for the cold!!

Let the safari begin!!! Bruce and I had done the CCAfrica 10 day mobile tenting safari of Botswana the year before. That took us to Chobe, Savute, Moremi, and Okavango and it was wonderful. For our second trip, we wanted to go somewhere different so we decided to head in the direction of the Kalahari. CCAfrica didn’t have a scheduled trip so we opted for a private one instead. It was different from traveling with a group. We could do whatever we wanted, so when Bruce wanted to sit in one spot waiting for the right photo to happen we did however I did miss the camp dinners under the stars with the other travelers. We were fortunate since we had the same guide, whom we knew well in addition to a cook and a camp assistant who did all the heavy stuff. It was still mobile although we only spent four nights under canvas this time.

This day our destination was Makgadikgadi Pans. I practiced for quite some time and now it just rolls off my tongue!! Okwa picked us up around 10:00 and off we went in our land cruiser. We drove around Maun. It’s amazing to believe that over 50000 people live there. It seems to sprawl forever. Then we were on a very straight paved road. The weather was sunny and warm and there were lots of cattle to look at. Not much wildlife unless one counts the feral donkeys everywhere.

We got to the park shortly after lunch about 1:45. Our campsite was already set up when we arrived. We had one of the sites that are open to the public since there are not operators sites in the park. I think there were four other sites but we were the only ones there. It had a permanent shower and toilet that were in not bad shape. Philip our cook, had prepared a lunch for us, so we ate that, let the endless food begin!!! Then we unpacked. We had a dome tent about 3 X 3 and tall enough to stand up in. Two cots with fresh linen and towels in the middle of Botswana, home seems very far away. After a 15 minute sort of the bags and clothes for later, we set off on the first game drive.

The geography is mostly that of low scrub and dried up riverbed. Okwa had already told us that it was unseasonably dry during the earlier wet season. The river was much lower than normal so it was all somewhat sad. Suddenly we saw a herd of zebra. There must have been 150 of them. I think they were put off by the sound of our truck. (At some point, it had started to make this terrible noise from the front end. Like metal on metal) Anyway they were calling to each other and running towards us and then they all stopped and stared at us. For several minutes they stood, we sat and no one moved. Then this lone wildebeest walked past them and past us towards the embankment. It was like a signal to them that we were wouldn’t hurt them and they all walked past us in a long line, once past us they started running again in a trail of dust. It was tremendous!

Dinner that night was awesome as it always is. Butternut squash soup, chicken pau pau, and stir fried vegetables. Okwa had fiddled under the truck and determined we needed a new one so apparently one was dispatched from Kasane for the morning. And that was our first day. Bed felt good and the sounds of the night were a wonderful way to sleep.

Hi ajy733,

Nice start .... we don't see too many trip reports going into the Kalahari region. Would appreciate it, if you could post the itinerary of your trip.

Thanks,
Hari

Great start Ajy733. You may have it rolling off your tongue, but can you spell Makgadikgadi without looking it up? I copied and pasted it here from your report, I confess.

Day 6

It was a very chilly morning when the sound of the replacement truck woke us up before six. It was really dark and the stars were still stunning. It is such a treat to go somewhere that isn’t obscured by ambient light. We had breakfast by the fire and by 6:30 were off to the Nxai Pan. As we drove there, about 60 km on dirt tracks, we saw some early morning animals…kudu, elephant, springbok, and oryx and it was very bumpy! Lots of predatory birds as well. Once we were inside the gates, the low scrub was replaced by open plain and another dried up riverbed. It was still greenish and dotted with trees, very beautiful. Lots of impala herds near the gate. It was kind of sad since many of the watering holes appeared to be in the process of drying up, much earlier than they should.

We stopped for coffee under a baobab tree. It was huge and looked like something from Lord of the Rings! By this point, it had warmed up considerably and we had removed several layers of clothing. Not humid so still really pleasant. As we drove around, we saw lots of herds of impala and springbok on the plain, mixed in with oryx and the odd elephant. No cats though which remain my favourite. The landscape was beautiful though and not many vehicles. Most of the people we met were families from South Africa who camp and do self-drive tours. We had a great picnic lunch and a siesta before starting to head back. Along the way, we found a huge elephant alone at a watering hole. It was amazing to watch him drink. It was as if he was savouring every drop and didn’t spill any. Quite different from our last trip that included Chobe where water was everywhere and they splashed around in it like kids.

Back at camp in time for dinner. It was about 5:30 and already dark and getting cold. The day had been wonderful. Not a huge amount of game but the scenery made up for it. Despite the sound of the truck and the bumps on the road, its almost peaceful driving along letting your mind wander with nothing to contemplate but the surroundings. To be fair by this point in the trip I had started to develop some kind of bug….chills, nausea, headache…I wanted to crawl into bed and sleep!! I was so cold that when I went to bed I put more clothes on and couldn’t warm up despite the duvet and all my layers! Fortunately, I started the prescription from the Travel Clinic and felt better in a day or so.

Day 7

Okay I wasn’t smart enough to take the drugs until this morning so I was suffering. I was dreading the drive to the Kalahari but determination prevailed along with antibiotics and the Botswana equivalent of Neo Citran. Bundled up in the front of the truck I slept for about three hours. The landscape consisted of open ranches as far as one could see. It was very flat and did remind me of Saskatchewan. The cattle roam freely during the day and are corralled at night. It was a massive area. We stopped in the town of Rykops, which was quite large and then began the 40 km drive on the dirt road to the Kalahari Reserve gate. It was mostly low scrub with lots of birds to watch. We stopped at one point and I am certain I saw an African wildcat but no one believed me. We got to the gate about 9:30 am and stopped for tea. We chatted to some South Africans who were leaving. They hadn’t seen any cats!!! Driving onward, the scenery doesn’t change until we enter Deception Valley and I cannot describe how stunning it is. It was huge and one can see for miles. Golden green in colour and bound by rolling hills. Not a vehicle to be seen and so peaceful! As we drive to the campsite, we saw a “jenny” of giraffe..we counted 22 of them of varying ages and heights. Lots of oryx and springbok as well.

At out campsite, a company site this time, the camp was set up and lunch waits. A couple of hours to unpack, shower and nap before tea and the afternoon drive. We set our about 3:30 in search of animals. During the day, the springbok scatter about the plain but they group at night so we find several large groups of them. Lots of oryx as well. These are magnificent animals. We also saw bat eared foxes, which are fun to watch. Lots of jackals and they can be heard chattering all the time. We find a good spot to watch the sunset. It’s splendid and the lack of cats in no way takes away from the glory of the day. Once the sun sets, it cools off quickly, so back at camp we are back to our warm clothes for dinner under the stars. Onion soup, fresh baked bread, chicken, mashed potatoes, and vegetable skewers. In bed by nine and strangely the night is silent. Due to the season, there are no insects and its desert so there are no frogs so the night is quiet. The sky is brilliant though and I fall asleep looking out the window.

Your trip report is wonderful, making me want to go back to Botswana. I live in the Vancouver area, where do you reside?

sounds awesome!!! and i would love to go to that part of Botswana as i hv never seen Springbok or Oryx!!!

Day 8

After a great nights sleep, and a light breakfast we bundle up. It was much cooler than the night before. Thank goodness for my fleece, the warm blanket, and my coffee thermos. There is something to be said be driven around the Kalahari as the sun rises with a hot coffee and no other cares!!! Took a few minutes to photograph three very compliant giraffe. Then as we were driving along the trail, up on the ridge something looked out of place. And viola!!!...three cheetah. According to Okwa, it’s a mother with two juvenile cubs. We drove towards them and initially they were timid and hid in the long grass but once the truck was parked, they calmed down. IT was very clear that the mother was intent on scoring breakfast, from the large herd of springbok below, however the cubs who were nearly as big as her were more interested in us and in playing. One of them came quite close to the truck.

We watched them for a long time. The cubs were like kittens in some ways, jumping after each other’s tails and wrestling. The whole time the mother watched the herd. The jackals were howling all around in anticipation of a kill. Okwa explained the cheetahs only have speed and even a group of determined jackals could take a kill from her. After awhile, so as not to disturb her, we moved off so we could still see them and the herd as well. At this point, another truck joined us, the only one we had seen at this point. After a few minutes, it’s apparent she is going to go for it. We lost sight of the cubs, they were probably waiting in the long grass until it was over and she began the track. Walking, crouching, walking, crouching….closer and closer. When she was about 250 m from the herd she started running, she was so fast it was awesome but she had started too soon…the herd start running and out distance her so they are safe but she is still hungry. Shortly after that, the cubs reappear and they move on. I must admit I was torn, I wanted her to have breakfast, but not so sure, I wanted to see a kill. It was wonderful, and the light was perfect. We probably watched for about 90 minutes. After that, we headed for the camp. I was in love with the Kalahari! ON the way back we watched some oryx. They are territorial and when one encroaches on their patch they charge them….we saw a couple of scuffles.

For the afternoon drive our goal was to find the cheetah again. After about an hour and some help from the people we met earlier we located them near the saltpan. It looked to us like they were hunting still. There was a large herd of springbok and oryx together. We were parked with two other trucks about 300 m from the cubs. The herd was moving as they licked the salt in their direction. We didn’t see the female just the cubs. All of us were watching and waiting. Through binoculars we could see that the cubs at several points were within 10 m of springbok but they didn’t move. The springbok never noticed them either, the wind must have been right. We watched for over an hour and nobody moved. The cubs and the mother never even made an attempt for dinner. It was so tense and then nothing. As a result we missed the sunset but did catch the moonrise as we barreled for home. As with the other parks in Botswana no driving after sunset so it’s a race to get home.

Dinner was waiting and it was as always wonderful but we basked in the glow of the great day. In my opinion this was the best day of our trip. It was perfect. The weather, though unseasonably cool warmed up, the smell of sage was prevalent in the air, the long grass of the Kalahari, and we saw the cheetahs, our first cheetah.

I just realized I should have titled this review with a warning about its length. Hope its not too long.

HariS - our itinerary in Botswana was as follows:

Flight to Maun, overnight in Maun
2 days in Makgadikgadi camping
2 days in Kalahari Reserve camping
2 days at Deception Valley Lodge
Flight back to Jburg
3 days in Sabi Sands

Raelond - we live in Waterloo, Ontario about an hour west of Toronto. I loved Botswana the first time we went, fall of 2006, and started planning this trip before we were home from the first one. I would go back in a second!

Thanks, this is a great report (and a great way to pass the time while waiting in the Mexico City airport).

I'm looking forward to your report on the Deception Valley -- that's a place I would really like to visit, if only to have a chance to see brown hyena.

I visited Kgaladagi NP (transborder park shared by SA and Botswana) in July 2006, so I know how beautiful the Kalahari can be. That park is great for African wild cats (I must have seen a dozen of them), plus lots of cape fox, jackals, and bat-eared foxes, and we saw several cheetah.

Michael

AJY,
What a small world! We live in Kitchener and going to Sabi Sabi Jan'08.
What prescription did you take for the bug that hit you?

How was getting through at Heathrow?

Loooking forward to your experience at Sabi Sands.

Day 9

Woken up early, still night in fact, by the 10 000 jackals that were cackling outside our tent. Okay maybe not 10 000 but it was loud!! Got up at 5:30 and packed our stuff. Much as I loved camping must admit I was looking forward to a real shower instead of a bag shower. Phil and John were returning to Kasane but Okwa was continuing with us for our stay at Deception Valley Lodge. The goal for the morning was to meander the park and arrive at the lodge in time for lunch. As we approached the pan, we found a massive herd of springbok. I think they were celebrating life since several of them were "pronking” (I think that’s right) This is the funny bound they take that appears totally out of control. Not sure why they do it but it looks like a celebration to me. We watched them for an hour or so. Then we began the drive out of the valley and the landscape was back to scrub. On our way, we found a puff adder and then a honey badger carrying a baby in her mouth. Then some ostrich and lots of steenbok, which are so cute.

Along the way we drove along the border of a hunting lodge, the whole thought depresses me but Okwa advised that they were stopping hunting there and turning to photographic safaris. Within about an hour, we entered the property of Deception Valley Lodge, which is also fenced. It was great. A main lodge with an attached veranda, a pool deck, and then walkways to the rooms. In front of the whole area is a manmade watering hole so at any given time various animals visit. On our arrival, it was a family of kudu, including some really your ones. Lots of lion tracks between the suites, and according to Vonda everyone had been kept awake the night before by the roaring. How terrible!!!

Our room looks just like the photo in the website. A big bedroom and separate living room with a couch and chair that swallow you up, and a bathroom with a claw foot tub and outside shower. Also a big balcony facing the watering hole. After my shower, which was great, and slathering myself in moisturizer (the desert air was drying my skin out terribly) I intended to read for an hour but immediately fell asleep. At four, it was teatime and we met the other guests. Only three – from Greece, Germany, and Australia. After tea, we headed out for the Bushman Walk. Two of the rangers were Bushman and they gave us an interesting tour about their nomadic way of life. Their lives are so in touch with their surroundings. It makes me realize the disconnect with nature in our lives. They made fire using their fire sticks in about 2 minutes. And it was there during sundowners that I crossed to the dark side…..I am not much of meat eater and I liked to think I would never eat any of those lovely antelope I had been watching earlier that day however we had kudu meatballs and I was hooked. The meat was wonderful, lean, and so tasty. ON the drive back to the lodge, we saw a wildcat, an acacia rat, and some owls. Dinner that night was very nice, yes, we had kudu steak, and it was better than any beef I have had. I am doomed!! We managed to stay awake until 9:30 and then fell into the soft bed and slept.

Theras - I think the prescription was for Cipro, if not soemthing similar.

About Heathrow, well Heathrow is Heathrow. If I wasn't so connected to BA I would do KLM or something else to avoid it. This year we stayed at the airport during the 8 hour wait for the next flight. Security was much tighter so we couldn't get into the shopping area of T4 which is where we landed. We went to T1, and it took about 50 minutes to get through security. I am sure if we had needed to connect quickly we could have begged our way though quicker. Then in T1 we wandered and waited. On our last trip we rented a dayroom at a nearby hotel. I am not sure it was worth it since we had to clear immigration and then back through the long security line up to get into T1. My advice is try and sleep on the flight from NA, so its not too painful waiting in LHR and then sleep on the flight south. Economy plus was money well spent. When you select your seats, don't pick ones that are near the back of the cabin since then you will have bulkhead seats behind you and there are usually young children in those seats.

Happy to answer your questions.

Great report! thanks

Excellent report that has me very excited to be at Deception Valley Lodge and exploring the Kalahari in two weeks.

Hi,

Thanks for a great report. Looking forward to read even more about Deception valley and their different activities.

/Tom

Day 10

Early start to the day – fresh pressed coffee and rusks. Much warmer, apparently the cold weather we had camping was unseasonable. For this drive we take our own truck, with Okwa driving and Duma, one of the bushmen from the day before tracking. The lodge truck is in search of the lion they had seen the day before. The geography is not like the valley, low scrub, and well-hidden animals. We saw a hartebeest, lots of steenbok and kudu. Over the radio, we heard that they had seen the lion. Since it’s not a national park, we go off road. I have to say that it didn’t appeal to me. It was really destructive driving over the bushes and trees that try so hard to stay alive. I also didn’t like the idea of chasing the lion. Nevertheless, we all were caught up in the chase until we drove over an old aardvark hole and were badly stuck. It took awhile to get out, we filled in the hole with branches and then Okwa drove out, within a minute one of our tires went flat. The real irony was that moments before we had been looking for a male lion and now the four of us were standing around wondering if he was looking for us !!! Eventually we get back on our way, although our truck has taken a beating, which Okwa had to fix after lunch. All in all not much to see in the way of animals but an adventure never the less.

Back at the lodge we have a wonderful brunch before planting ourselves by the pool to watch the kudu and warthogs at the watering hole. It was much warmer so a great way to sepnd the afternoon. According to one of the guides during the hot season, many guests choose to stay at the pool in lieu of the game drives to watch the animals at the water hole. They get hyenas, lions etc. Not while we were there though. During tea we taught Okwa to play Scrabble and watched the local birds gather to beg for food.

The evening drive took us out to the lodges part of the valley. It was bueatiful and the sunset was great. We saw an ostrich nesting in the open. Then we saw a caracal, it didn’t want to be seen so it ran off, we followed it which resulted in our second flat tire for the day!!!!

Dinner that night again was outside under the stars. We watched the porcupines eat their dinner. They were much bigger than the ones we have here. Three of them, one was a baby but still had bueatiful quills. After dinner, we went out for a night drive. The highlight was a small spotted genet in a tree. We also saw a honey badger. IT was cool when we got back and the bed was warm and soft!

Day 11

For the first time no wake up call. What a great sleep. We had a light breakfast with wonderful coffee and then we set out. No game drive that morning, instead Bruce wanted to try to start a fire using the fire sticks. We set off to the little village with Duma. Duma showed them how and had fire in about 2 minutes. Bruce and Okwa took turns and other than some blisters had no luck. Back at the lodge another great breakfast and 11:15, Okwa left. He was driving back to Maun and we were flying later day. Back at our room, we packed and retuned to the lobby for the drive to the airstrip.

It was a typical bush strip, dirt track, windsock and a couple of fire pails!!! It was really warm by then and right on schedule the plane landed. IT was a very scenic flight to Maun, about 35 minutes. Looking around at the desert made one appreciate the isolation of the lodge. The flight was bumpy because of the heat of the desert. I am n to the biggest fan of little planes but the pilot seemed unconcerned by the turbulence so I did the same. We landed at 1:50 and our flight back to J’burg on Air Bots was at 3:00. We checked in and then met Okwa, who had driven like a mad man! We wandered the main strip in Maun, bought a couple of gifts, and then waited for the flight. And waited, and waited…apparently this is the norm for the airline who have a monopoly on the route. Finally we left at 4:25!!

Landed at J’burg but I think we taxied to Pretoria!!! I was dreading the immigration line-ups but within about 20 minutes we were through and waiting for our bags. Then we walked to the Intercontinental Sun where we spent the night. Checked in, dumped our bags, and had a nice dinner in the hotel. Wandered around for a bit, used the steam bath and the big tub and turned in for the night.

Overall our trip in Botswana had been as good as the first time. Maybe not as many animals but it felt much wilder and open. We rarely saw any other trucks and no other organized trips. The camping had been great but I had really enjoyed staying at the Lodge. The game was not as good at the Lodge but that wasn't a surprise and didn't ruin it for us. It had been really restful. The food was awesome and the preparation brillant. I would easily recommend it to anyone.

Next Sabi - completely different than Botswana.

No fun being sick on safari. Good thing you were prepared with some drugs.

You wrote at one point in your report, "I am in love with the Kalahari." Your description of it will make the rest of us want to visit and fall in love too.

A honey badger with a baby in her mouth!

Your description of pronking was great. I think humans should celebrate in the same manner.

If you are going to cross to the dark side, at least you picked something exotic like kudu meatballs for the transfer.

Loved your irony of looking for lions and suddenly being concerned that you might find them, along with your flat tire.

The flat in exchange for a caracal is well worth it.

Where did you see the porcupines eat? Near your dining area? On a drive after dinner?

Thanks for posting your itinerary. I know your title says Spring, but can you give the dates?

Can you tell us who arranged the trip? CCAfrica did the last one, but did they do this one too?

Looking forward to Sabi Sands. You had a nice combo for your trip.

Day 12

Strange to be woken up by the phone but on to the next stage. Really good breakfast in the hotel after a tremendous shower. Packed our very dirty and dusty clothes and checked out of the hotel. We walked to the Federal Air Centre, which was not far. A lot of construction going on at J’burg airport. The shuttle picked us up as the departure area is on the other side of the apron. We sat in the Federal Air lounge for a bit, had coffee, and by 9:25 were airborne in the Beech 1900.

The view was wonderful since it was so clear. I had not realized how stunning the landscape is and decided that on the next trip we shall venture into the mountains of S. Africa!! Our plane made two other stops, and then we changed to a smaller plane for the five-minute flight to Sabi. I can’t remember the name of the airstrip but it is being enlarged. Picked up by Remembrance for the 10 minute drive to the Dulini Lodge, which is in the Exeter Game Reserve.

The Dulini was wonderful. We had a stunning suite with an amazing glassed in bathroom so we could watch the river from the tub. We had to laugh at the extravagance of it all. Quickly we unpacked and sent stuff out to be laundered. Then lunch which was served on the deck overlooking the river. Back to the room for a lie in the sun until 3:30, which is of course tea, time which of course means more food!!!

After that, we met our guide Rex and the American couple who would be doing the game drives with us. It was their first game drive. The land rover was comfortable with a good suspension so the ride was not as bumpy as Botswana.

The landscape was very different there. It was much greener and the air was not nearly as dry. My skin had already started to recover. Lots of low lying scrub and relatively flat in some places and then quite hilly in others. Lots of impalas herding together for the night and bushbucks, a new one for us. The drives are much more organized with each of the trucks having radios, calling in various sightings, and then queuing to see things. It sounds over managed but it works well. The highlight of the evening was on our return.

It was already dark and suddenly we came across two male lions asleep in the road. We stopped within about 20 feet of them. There were some other lions in the distance calling and these two lions started answering. I couldn’t believe how loud it was. Then one of them got up and started walking towards the truck. He was so big. He walked within a foot of the truck along the side and then lay down in front of it. It was awesome to see him so close. They must be very used to the vehicles. IT was as if we were invisible.

Back at the lodge, we were met with hot towels, sherry and Kelli the manager warning us to check the temperature of the bath water to ensure it was not too hot before getting in!!! Dinner was good, a brai around the fire. Sleep was good and we could hear lions throughout the night. IT was awesome to open the drapes, lie in bed, and watch the river.

Day 13

Morning started with tapping on our door and a delivery of juice and fruit. Much warmer than in Botswana. Quick coffee and toast in the lodge and then off for the drive. After awhile we found a female leopard trying to nap in the bush. We followed her for a bit and left her alone. The rangers recognize many of the animals and have a lot of information which is nice. Later we found two lionesses with two cubs that were nursing. We got quite close to them so the photos were good. They were about 8 weeks old and curious about us. We took our time and then another truck moved in.

Breakfast was very relaxing. We watched the Vervet monkeys stealing milk and food from the table. If they were squirrels and I was at home, it would be an issue but the monkeys are cute. We had a long lounge back at the room by our little pool. It was too cool to swim in but looked nice. We skipped lunch and relaxed. Being in a lodge was much more claming than the time in Botswana. It was warm with a nice breeze. A great way to spend an afternoon.

After tea, we set out on our afternoon drive. Almost immediately, we found a big herd of elephants. One of the bulls was absolutely massive, and lots of little guys who were fun to watch as they destroyed the trees. We went to the hippo pond and watched the hippos frolic in the water. We had wonderful sundowners and listened to the impala snorting all around us. It was really nice.

That night we had a private dinner in our room. The staff went all out and decorated the room with candles and rose petals. They put candles, blankets, pillow out by the pool with truffles and champagne, and served us a wonderful dinner. It was cool but the sky was clear so the stars were great.

Day 14

Another early start with rusks and coffee. Much colder that morning so the blanket in the truck is good. We were in search of zebra and found them quickly. The light was good for photos. Then they were scared off by baboons. The low scrub makes sighting the animals more of a challenge and we are pretty spoiled but it’s still a great way to spend the morning. Later another truck found two leopards so we head in their direction. When we got there there was only one left however, she obliged and walked so close to the truck I could have touched her. The cats were unbelievable blasé about us all. Back at the lodge, we had another great breakfast and a lounge in the room by the pool. I had a nap; all the early mornings were taking a toll on me!!! Then lunch, then a rest, then tea. I started to feel like we were just being fattened up!!

On the evening game drive, we were also joined by an Italian couple who had just arrived. I envied the fact it was their first game drive. The goal this evening was more cats and a sunset. We found the two lionesses with the cubs. We waited our turn and then took our 200 photos. They looked just like kittens!! After that a mad dash to catch the sunset. Our last sunset!! After that back to the lodge for dinner. Again outside and a big BBQ.

After that, I had to use the internet to do the online check in. Very depressing the thought of going home. We had tea in our room and packed for the next day.

Day 15 & 16

Early start and the sound of lions throughout the night. Our goal had been lions that day but we had not success. As we were on our way back to the lodge after a largely unsuccessful drive someone spotted a cheetah walking through the area. We found him and followed him for a bit. He was very determined and paid no attention to us. After that back to the lodge for breakfast and then we were back at the airstrip for the return flight home by 10:25.

This made for a very long day as our flight to Heathrow was not until 7:00 that night. We landed just after noon and sat in the Federal Air Lounge. It was nice, quiet and a good way to pass the time before having to go to the main terminal. At 3:30, they drove us to the main terminal and we began the nightmare of check in. After about three various security points we got to the main check in and the clerk would not give us boarding passes for our connection in Heathrow. Made no sense to me as I could have printed them myself!! Anyway, once through security we wandered the shops. Spent the last of our rand on African tea and waited for our flight.

Our flight was late leaving, really late, various mechanical problems but eventually we left. Uneventful flight thanks to the sleeping pill. We landed late and I was quite convinced we would miss our connection. I was getting geared up to fight…however BA was tremendous. We were met at the plan, driven to T4, the BA person fast tracked us through security and got our boarding passes, and we made the flight with time to spare!!!! The downside was that we had no time to stop and buy English Cadbury chocolate!! Our luggage was not so lucky and spent an extra day in Heathrow. Good flight to Detroit and then we were home!!!