Botswana/Cape Town/Vic Falls Trip Report Oct 2007
Oct 28th, 2007, 01:28 PM
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Botswana/Cape Town/Vic Falls Trip Report Oct 2007
It is 2:30 am October 12, 2007 and I am wide awake in Hawaii – just home from South Africa, Botswana and Zambia. It is a time better than most for a trip report.
We flew from Maui to Cape Town departing on 9/19/07 at 9:30 pm. Had an unexpected 13 hour layover in San Francisco so we got a room at the Hilton Garden Inn. Clean and fine for what we needed. First Class on United to Heathrow, heavy turbulence almost the entire way, the service was good, but the plane was old and pretty beat up. Layover in Heathrow of 7 hours so we used the South African First Class Lounge which was very nice indeed. Service and equipment first rate on the London to Joburg flight. 4 hour layover in Joburg, again used the first class lounge, then on to Cape Town finally arriving Saturday 9/22 about 1:00 pm, on the road by 2:00 pm. Surprisingly we felt pretty good considering the 3 days it took us to get there.
We met our traveling companions at the Redcliffe House which we had rented through the Cape Cadogan in the Tamboerskloof area. Absolutely stunning, large 4 bedroom with 3 bath (2 of which are ensuite) and an additional powder room. It has coffee, tea, bathroom amenities, hairdryers, a safe and satellite TV. It has two lovely decks, a small pool, a modern kitchen, large dining room and large living room. The pictures on the website simply don’t do the 15 foot ceilings or original pine plank floors justice. Daily maid service except for weekends, internet access and concierge services at the Cape Cadogan. Just off Kloof on Camp Street within walking distance to lots of great small restaurants, Limnos Bakers and a Woolworths. This would be perfect for up to 3 couples. It couldn’t have been a better choice. It was a bargain at $300 per night.
Cape Town is a vibrant wonderful city. We did a half day trip to the Cape of Good Hope through African Eagle which stopped at Simonstown for a boardwalk tour of the penguins, we went up Table Mountain devoid of its tablecloth, loved our full day tour of the Stellenbosch region with John Ford of Adamastor and Bacchus where we visited Jordon, Grangehurst, Bellevue and Morgenhof where we had a lovely outdoor lunch, and Moriplass. The Pinotage, unwooded Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Savignon Blanc were all extremely high quality and could effectively compete with European or California Wines. John Ford also owns The Main Ingredient wine and gourmet food shop in Sea Point, his tours are through word-of-mouth. I am happy to provide his email for any interested parties. We took our time at the extraordinary Kirstenbosh Gardens and did the Waterfront stroll. Some of us were going to do Shark Cage diving but it was canceled due to bad weather. We missed Robben’s Island as it was during school holidays and classroom after classroom of children had prebooked during the week. 7 nights was not enough.
Dining was Quay 4 upstairs, Balducci’s, Greens, Arnolds, Zucca, and Baia. Frankly I’d skip Balducci’s as service and training of their staff was poor and food was adequate only, it looked like a bunch of 16 year olds were running the floor. We enjoyed all our other dining especially Zucca and the owner, Ricky.
We left Saturday 9/29/07 Cape Town, to Joburg, to Maun to Chitabe on a very small older aircraft that must be a subcontractor to Sefofane and were treated to a free sauna on the way. The plane was safe enough, just beat up and small.
One hiccup here, one bag didn’t arrive at Maun. Everyone said “Oh, Air Botswana”, so they must have this problem often. It was received 24 hours later.
While the entire safari was fabulous, nothing can really prepare you for the first experience, I felt like I was in a Steven Spielberg movie where all the animals were cued to enter stage left or stage right to take my breath away. Chitabe had incredible game including 3 different leopards. A stunning 8 year old male leopard resting at the base of a tree with his warthog kill in a branch above. A beautiful 3 year old female lounging in a tree. And, twice we saw a 3-4 year old female in different trees at least a mile apart nursing a significant wound – at least 8 inches long, completely through the belly muscle exposing her organs. When she laid on her side the wound would gap open about five inches. Kai, the Wilderness Safari Conservationist in camp, thought she had a 50/50 chance of making it. Our first sundowner included a curious hyena who circled us at about 30 feet and as it got dark invited a second hyena to join him. We encountered a female lioness that was in good shape, but we didn’t see her two cubs. We found a cheetah with 3 cubs resting under a barren Acacia tree, their first sighting in quite some time at Chitabe. Giraffe, elephant, warthog, impala, zebra, baboons, vervet monkeys, warthog, wildebeest, birds, and etc. A Cape Buffalo herd of about 800. Red lechwe, bushbuck, reedbuck, kudu. Wow. Ebbs was our guide and worked very hard for us. 3 nights were perfect. We did an hour walk, which was good and saw fresh wild dog tracks, but no sighting.
It was Botswana’s independence day on September 30 so we had a special evening in the Kgotia with a traditional meal which we ate with our fingers, singing and dancing all sporting our Chitabe gift of a beaded Botswana flag-pin.
Our third and final evening at Chitabe two male lions walked under our tent #1 about 11:00 pm and roared for what seemed quite a while, the woman in tent #2 went out to look at them . . . fortunately they moved on with no incident. It really does not sound like a movie roar!
Kwetsani was next for three nights. This beautiful, immaculate small camp in the Okavango is excellently run by Kim and Shane. This was bird heaven, too numerous to name, many which congregate at a magical little bridge, complete with crocodile and a stunning malachite kingfisher. We sat with a breeding herd of about 22 elephants for about an hour and a half. A juvenile male came within 5 feet of touching my husband and would have done so if he hadn’t taken the camera down from his eye . . . which was on zoom . . . he had no idea the elephant was so close. The young males were very curious and watching their displacement behavior was fascinating. The mokoro trip at Kwetsani was lovely and peaceful. The sound of the Red Lechwe running through water is extraordinary. Lots of Steenbok here too. We also met a new pride of 5 lions that just moved into the territory – 2 male and three female. They were trying to open a turtle to no avail. The Kwetsani pride has a male/female/2 cubs which we never saw. Time will tell how that plays. 3 nights was not enough. Salani was a great guide. This was the best managed camp and one we wouldn’t miss next time.
This may be helpful, our travel companions thought of this -- take your Newman’s bird book on the drives, write the corresponding photo number to the bird in the book so when you download, you’ll be sure you have the type and male/female correct along with date and time.
Selinda was next for 3 nights. We arrived with an early rain and a spectacular thunder and lighting storm surrounding the plain. We sat with a breeding herd of eles where one of the babies was so new to the world it didn’t have any idea how to use its trunk. A hugh hippo, much larger than our land cruiser, lay dead along the Selinda spillway, killed in a dominance fight a few days before we arrived. By the time we left 3 days later only a few scattered bones remained. The feeding sometimes included up to 5 hyena. Much of the game dispersed because of the rain, so we concentrated on the lions, and yes, they were magnificent. We arrived early enough to see 8 cubs at play for about 30 minutes before they exhausted themselves and retired to a branch in a thicket. We found the 3 females the next day and the 2 males the last day, including Milky Eye, along with the females nursing the cubs. We did a 3 hour walk and saw an elephant that had been accidentally killed in sparing match a few weeks earlier. The government had just arrived and removed the tusks which they will sell and use the funds toward conservation. Beautiful fox-like jackals here. We were also very lucky to see here an African wild cat and a Korhann fall head-over-heals in love. There was a National Geo cinema photographer, Jacques, in camp beginning work on an 18-month project about Elephants all at Selinda. And the Wilderness Safari’s brochure photographer Dana was in camp too and both had stories to tell. Motts was our guide and did a great job.
Just a comment, the Selinda vehicles did not have tops . . . . we called ahead from Kwetsani and asked for one to be put on our vehicle and they rustled up some screen for the top for which we were very grateful. We were told they had retrofitted their vehicles with bucket seats and hadn’t got around to fixing tops on yet.
River Club was next for 2 nights. The travel day was a slice of life, Sefofane Air to Kasane where Wilderness met us with a bus to take us through Botswana departure passport control and on to the Zambia border river crossing, where we were handed over to a small boat operator who took us across the river. On the other side a Wilderness van picked us up to take us to Zambia passport control. Then along the Zambia roadway we descended the riverbank where another small boat took us downriver to the River Club. On the way we saw a baby hippo resting on the back of its mother as she swam upriver. Selinda to River Club took about four hours total. The Zambia border . . . what a tragedy of inefficiency for commerce . . .hundreds of semi trucks sometimes waiting for 4 days to cross the river, it looked like chaos. All four countries here are arguing over who will pay for building a vitally needed bridge. We were very glad that Wilderness had it privately dialed especially since they lost a ferry with about 70 passengers and a semi within the last few months. I think it would be easier to fly back to Maun and fly to Livingston.
At the River Club we did an evening cruise and finally got to see Carmine Bee Eaters. Our full day included a microflight above Victoria Falls (take the early flight if you can) a trip to the market (offer half what they tell you your purchases cost) and then the plunge at Livingston Island. We did the morning Breezer . . . you depart from the Royal Livingston, boat out to the island, swim over to some rocks, jump into the plunge pool and yes, being held by your ankles, you literally look over the edge of the falls. And there are pictures to prove it! We ended here with a massage at sunset and a swim in their pool which rates as one of my top 10 views of the world. Wonderful property.
Other items – our traveling companions took a Nikon D(?) with a 400 lens and doubler, the photos are in process and should be spectacular We had a Rebel XTi that worked well, but wish we had sprung for a 100-400 lens. Our binoculars were the Nikon Monarch ATB 10X42 and they worked wonderfully. It would have been nice to know that we could have tipped the staff and guides with our credit card . . . . it would have given us the option of being more generous and we didn’t like carrying all that cash.
Absolutely fabulous trip and game viewing, wonderful classic camps, lovely travel companions and interesting conversation and people at the camps.
Things I would be sure to take or do next time
1 Cap or Hat with Stiff Brim
Darker “wrap around” sunglasses
1 Flip Flops for Tent
Antiseptic Hand Jel (forget the wipes)
Power makeup in a brush tube with 30 SPF, you can keep applying on the drive without bugs sticking to your face like regular sunscreen does
High quality hair conditioner
Smaller powerful flashlights
Travel Alarm Clock
Thanks to everyone who posts on the board, I learned so much from all of you that my first safari was an incredible success and incomparable experience.
We flew from Maui to Cape Town departing on 9/19/07 at 9:30 pm. Had an unexpected 13 hour layover in San Francisco so we got a room at the Hilton Garden Inn. Clean and fine for what we needed. First Class on United to Heathrow, heavy turbulence almost the entire way, the service was good, but the plane was old and pretty beat up. Layover in Heathrow of 7 hours so we used the South African First Class Lounge which was very nice indeed. Service and equipment first rate on the London to Joburg flight. 4 hour layover in Joburg, again used the first class lounge, then on to Cape Town finally arriving Saturday 9/22 about 1:00 pm, on the road by 2:00 pm. Surprisingly we felt pretty good considering the 3 days it took us to get there.
We met our traveling companions at the Redcliffe House which we had rented through the Cape Cadogan in the Tamboerskloof area. Absolutely stunning, large 4 bedroom with 3 bath (2 of which are ensuite) and an additional powder room. It has coffee, tea, bathroom amenities, hairdryers, a safe and satellite TV. It has two lovely decks, a small pool, a modern kitchen, large dining room and large living room. The pictures on the website simply don’t do the 15 foot ceilings or original pine plank floors justice. Daily maid service except for weekends, internet access and concierge services at the Cape Cadogan. Just off Kloof on Camp Street within walking distance to lots of great small restaurants, Limnos Bakers and a Woolworths. This would be perfect for up to 3 couples. It couldn’t have been a better choice. It was a bargain at $300 per night.
Cape Town is a vibrant wonderful city. We did a half day trip to the Cape of Good Hope through African Eagle which stopped at Simonstown for a boardwalk tour of the penguins, we went up Table Mountain devoid of its tablecloth, loved our full day tour of the Stellenbosch region with John Ford of Adamastor and Bacchus where we visited Jordon, Grangehurst, Bellevue and Morgenhof where we had a lovely outdoor lunch, and Moriplass. The Pinotage, unwooded Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Savignon Blanc were all extremely high quality and could effectively compete with European or California Wines. John Ford also owns The Main Ingredient wine and gourmet food shop in Sea Point, his tours are through word-of-mouth. I am happy to provide his email for any interested parties. We took our time at the extraordinary Kirstenbosh Gardens and did the Waterfront stroll. Some of us were going to do Shark Cage diving but it was canceled due to bad weather. We missed Robben’s Island as it was during school holidays and classroom after classroom of children had prebooked during the week. 7 nights was not enough.
Dining was Quay 4 upstairs, Balducci’s, Greens, Arnolds, Zucca, and Baia. Frankly I’d skip Balducci’s as service and training of their staff was poor and food was adequate only, it looked like a bunch of 16 year olds were running the floor. We enjoyed all our other dining especially Zucca and the owner, Ricky.
We left Saturday 9/29/07 Cape Town, to Joburg, to Maun to Chitabe on a very small older aircraft that must be a subcontractor to Sefofane and were treated to a free sauna on the way. The plane was safe enough, just beat up and small.
One hiccup here, one bag didn’t arrive at Maun. Everyone said “Oh, Air Botswana”, so they must have this problem often. It was received 24 hours later.
While the entire safari was fabulous, nothing can really prepare you for the first experience, I felt like I was in a Steven Spielberg movie where all the animals were cued to enter stage left or stage right to take my breath away. Chitabe had incredible game including 3 different leopards. A stunning 8 year old male leopard resting at the base of a tree with his warthog kill in a branch above. A beautiful 3 year old female lounging in a tree. And, twice we saw a 3-4 year old female in different trees at least a mile apart nursing a significant wound – at least 8 inches long, completely through the belly muscle exposing her organs. When she laid on her side the wound would gap open about five inches. Kai, the Wilderness Safari Conservationist in camp, thought she had a 50/50 chance of making it. Our first sundowner included a curious hyena who circled us at about 30 feet and as it got dark invited a second hyena to join him. We encountered a female lioness that was in good shape, but we didn’t see her two cubs. We found a cheetah with 3 cubs resting under a barren Acacia tree, their first sighting in quite some time at Chitabe. Giraffe, elephant, warthog, impala, zebra, baboons, vervet monkeys, warthog, wildebeest, birds, and etc. A Cape Buffalo herd of about 800. Red lechwe, bushbuck, reedbuck, kudu. Wow. Ebbs was our guide and worked very hard for us. 3 nights were perfect. We did an hour walk, which was good and saw fresh wild dog tracks, but no sighting.
It was Botswana’s independence day on September 30 so we had a special evening in the Kgotia with a traditional meal which we ate with our fingers, singing and dancing all sporting our Chitabe gift of a beaded Botswana flag-pin.
Our third and final evening at Chitabe two male lions walked under our tent #1 about 11:00 pm and roared for what seemed quite a while, the woman in tent #2 went out to look at them . . . fortunately they moved on with no incident. It really does not sound like a movie roar!
Kwetsani was next for three nights. This beautiful, immaculate small camp in the Okavango is excellently run by Kim and Shane. This was bird heaven, too numerous to name, many which congregate at a magical little bridge, complete with crocodile and a stunning malachite kingfisher. We sat with a breeding herd of about 22 elephants for about an hour and a half. A juvenile male came within 5 feet of touching my husband and would have done so if he hadn’t taken the camera down from his eye . . . which was on zoom . . . he had no idea the elephant was so close. The young males were very curious and watching their displacement behavior was fascinating. The mokoro trip at Kwetsani was lovely and peaceful. The sound of the Red Lechwe running through water is extraordinary. Lots of Steenbok here too. We also met a new pride of 5 lions that just moved into the territory – 2 male and three female. They were trying to open a turtle to no avail. The Kwetsani pride has a male/female/2 cubs which we never saw. Time will tell how that plays. 3 nights was not enough. Salani was a great guide. This was the best managed camp and one we wouldn’t miss next time.
This may be helpful, our travel companions thought of this -- take your Newman’s bird book on the drives, write the corresponding photo number to the bird in the book so when you download, you’ll be sure you have the type and male/female correct along with date and time.
Selinda was next for 3 nights. We arrived with an early rain and a spectacular thunder and lighting storm surrounding the plain. We sat with a breeding herd of eles where one of the babies was so new to the world it didn’t have any idea how to use its trunk. A hugh hippo, much larger than our land cruiser, lay dead along the Selinda spillway, killed in a dominance fight a few days before we arrived. By the time we left 3 days later only a few scattered bones remained. The feeding sometimes included up to 5 hyena. Much of the game dispersed because of the rain, so we concentrated on the lions, and yes, they were magnificent. We arrived early enough to see 8 cubs at play for about 30 minutes before they exhausted themselves and retired to a branch in a thicket. We found the 3 females the next day and the 2 males the last day, including Milky Eye, along with the females nursing the cubs. We did a 3 hour walk and saw an elephant that had been accidentally killed in sparing match a few weeks earlier. The government had just arrived and removed the tusks which they will sell and use the funds toward conservation. Beautiful fox-like jackals here. We were also very lucky to see here an African wild cat and a Korhann fall head-over-heals in love. There was a National Geo cinema photographer, Jacques, in camp beginning work on an 18-month project about Elephants all at Selinda. And the Wilderness Safari’s brochure photographer Dana was in camp too and both had stories to tell. Motts was our guide and did a great job.
Just a comment, the Selinda vehicles did not have tops . . . . we called ahead from Kwetsani and asked for one to be put on our vehicle and they rustled up some screen for the top for which we were very grateful. We were told they had retrofitted their vehicles with bucket seats and hadn’t got around to fixing tops on yet.
River Club was next for 2 nights. The travel day was a slice of life, Sefofane Air to Kasane where Wilderness met us with a bus to take us through Botswana departure passport control and on to the Zambia border river crossing, where we were handed over to a small boat operator who took us across the river. On the other side a Wilderness van picked us up to take us to Zambia passport control. Then along the Zambia roadway we descended the riverbank where another small boat took us downriver to the River Club. On the way we saw a baby hippo resting on the back of its mother as she swam upriver. Selinda to River Club took about four hours total. The Zambia border . . . what a tragedy of inefficiency for commerce . . .hundreds of semi trucks sometimes waiting for 4 days to cross the river, it looked like chaos. All four countries here are arguing over who will pay for building a vitally needed bridge. We were very glad that Wilderness had it privately dialed especially since they lost a ferry with about 70 passengers and a semi within the last few months. I think it would be easier to fly back to Maun and fly to Livingston.
At the River Club we did an evening cruise and finally got to see Carmine Bee Eaters. Our full day included a microflight above Victoria Falls (take the early flight if you can) a trip to the market (offer half what they tell you your purchases cost) and then the plunge at Livingston Island. We did the morning Breezer . . . you depart from the Royal Livingston, boat out to the island, swim over to some rocks, jump into the plunge pool and yes, being held by your ankles, you literally look over the edge of the falls. And there are pictures to prove it! We ended here with a massage at sunset and a swim in their pool which rates as one of my top 10 views of the world. Wonderful property.
Other items – our traveling companions took a Nikon D(?) with a 400 lens and doubler, the photos are in process and should be spectacular We had a Rebel XTi that worked well, but wish we had sprung for a 100-400 lens. Our binoculars were the Nikon Monarch ATB 10X42 and they worked wonderfully. It would have been nice to know that we could have tipped the staff and guides with our credit card . . . . it would have given us the option of being more generous and we didn’t like carrying all that cash.
Absolutely fabulous trip and game viewing, wonderful classic camps, lovely travel companions and interesting conversation and people at the camps.
Things I would be sure to take or do next time
1 Cap or Hat with Stiff Brim
Darker “wrap around” sunglasses
1 Flip Flops for Tent
Antiseptic Hand Jel (forget the wipes)
Power makeup in a brush tube with 30 SPF, you can keep applying on the drive without bugs sticking to your face like regular sunscreen does
High quality hair conditioner
Smaller powerful flashlights
Travel Alarm Clock
Thanks to everyone who posts on the board, I learned so much from all of you that my first safari was an incredible success and incomparable experience.
Oct 28th, 2007, 02:18 PM
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Sounds like a fabulous trip! And a free sauna on the Sefofane, what a deal! 
"nothing can really prepare you for the first experience, I felt like I was in a Steven Spielberg movie where all the animals were cued to enter stage left or stage right to take my breath away" ....
I totally agree, that's what I said after my 1st experience too.
Cheetahs and cubs, lions and cubs, close encounters with ellies (how cool for your husband)...terrific! Hope you have some photos to share with us.
What was lady in tent #2 thinking??
Thanks for all the good tips. I would like to visit these camps on trip #3, who did you end up working with to organize your trip?
Mahalo <
"nothing can really prepare you for the first experience, I felt like I was in a Steven Spielberg movie where all the animals were cued to enter stage left or stage right to take my breath away" ....
I totally agree, that's what I said after my 1st experience too.
Cheetahs and cubs, lions and cubs, close encounters with ellies (how cool for your husband)...terrific! Hope you have some photos to share with us.
What was lady in tent #2 thinking??
Thanks for all the good tips. I would like to visit these camps on trip #3, who did you end up working with to organize your trip?
Mahalo <
Oct 28th, 2007, 02:59 PM
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Welcome back! Sounds like you had a great time. We also had Mots as our guide in Selinda. The elephant was already dead when we were there at the beginning of July. I wonder why you had such a complicated transfer to River Club. We flew from Selinda to Kasane, went through border control there and then flew to Livingstone. I look forward to seeing your photos.
Oct 28th, 2007, 03:04 PM
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Sounds like you had a wonderful trip. We also enjoyed Kwetsani and River Club, with Kwetsani being our favorite camp. We took a flight to Kasane and then on to Livingston, flying over the falls. We were able to get some wonderful pictures from the air. I would love to visit Chitabe one day.
Oct 29th, 2007, 04:37 AM
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Aloha Diane,
I too am from Hawaii planning my trip to Africa September of 08 to pick up my son who is currently serving a mission in South Africa and Botswana. I really enjoyed your post, as I am new to this African adventure. Did you use a travel agent in Hawaii or on the web. Any kokua would be appreciated.
Mahalo Nui Loa,
Lisa
I too am from Hawaii planning my trip to Africa September of 08 to pick up my son who is currently serving a mission in South Africa and Botswana. I really enjoyed your post, as I am new to this African adventure. Did you use a travel agent in Hawaii or on the web. Any kokua would be appreciated.
Mahalo Nui Loa,
Lisa
Oct 30th, 2007, 07:14 AM
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Good Steven Spielberg analogy. How nice you could celebrate Independence Day while you were there.
You gave a wonderful account of Kwetsani. I can hear those lechwe in the delta right now--in my mind only.
For you Selinda seemed to be the home of the displaced and vanquished dominant male from a variety of species.
What's this love affair between an African Wildcat and a Korhaan? That sounds juicy, you must elaborate.
Good suggestions on what you'd take next time. Any thoughts on a next time?
You gave a wonderful account of Kwetsani. I can hear those lechwe in the delta right now--in my mind only.
For you Selinda seemed to be the home of the displaced and vanquished dominant male from a variety of species.
What's this love affair between an African Wildcat and a Korhaan? That sounds juicy, you must elaborate.
Good suggestions on what you'd take next time. Any thoughts on a next time?
Oct 30th, 2007, 08:26 AM
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Aloha all, yes I promise there will be pictures, hopefully before Thanksgiving. We used Julian Harrison of Premier Tours from Philadelphia. I costed the itinerary with 7 companies and there was a pricing spread. All of the companies/agents were very good, however Julian was the only one who called me personally and this was the selling point for me. I am already saving for next time --in the 3 year range, maybe Savuti, Zambia, Namibia. It somewhat depends on what experiences I read about from all of you! Sorry about the love-affair between the cat and the bird, we saw them very close together but the korhann was responding to a mating call. Have you seen how they fly straight up in the air, roll into a ball and fall straight to the ground then roll out of their ball shape into a run? Fascinating.
Oct 30th, 2007, 08:38 AM
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Nice report DianeJF! I think I actually saw you on a game drive at Selinda Oct 6 as I was surprised to see a canopy on a Selinda truck! We were in a truck from Kwando looking at the lions and when we saw Mots he asked us if our guides at Seba camp were as good as him and I told him "Well, they didn't find any cheetah!" Small world if it indeed was you.
Nov 5th, 2007, 12:59 PM
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Diane-
if you wouldn't mind emailing me the info on the wine tour at kamk113 at yahoo dot com I'd appreciate it.
also, re
hark diving - did you have this booked in advance / how were you planning to get there from Cape Town?
if you wouldn't mind emailing me the info on the wine tour at kamk113 at yahoo dot com I'd appreciate it.
also, re
hark diving - did you have this booked in advance / how were you planning to get there from Cape Town?
Nov 6th, 2007, 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the report Diane. It brings back memories of Chitabe, when I was there in July. Ebbs was not my guide, but I did meet him while I was there, in fact he was the one who picked me up from the airstrip. I met some of the guests that were in vehicles with him and they said he was wonderful. Andy was my guide, and he was absolutely fantastic. I loved Chitabe. Thanks for bringing back fond memories.
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