matnikstym

I'm back but extremely burnt out. 4 countries in 24 hours (Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan, U.S.) just wanted to say a few things.

Yes the game sightings at MM were fantastic, first time we really saw leopards and rhino (but did see a rhino on our first day in Kruger) but didn't see nearly the variety or number of game as we had seen in Hwange, South Luangwa or even Kruger.

In our group of 6, 4 of us were there 3 nights, 2 left after 2 nights. It was the first safari for the 2 and the woman could have died happy after seeing the dogs. I had no complaints for those 2 days (other than not stopping so the woman could see the elephants from a closer viewpoint), but when they left, the four of us had seen the big 5 numerous times and wanted to see more. We asked to search for more variety and our request was not met due to our ranger getting a call on the radio about a leopard and off we went. I know that if we had stayed looking for the nocturnal critters, we may not have found any, but that is what WE asked to do and that request wasn't met. It would have been an easier drive for the guide and actually given the "spotter" something to do.

I did leave this complaint on the comment card.

Another petty complaint, there were no sundowner g & t's!


As far as like minded people being put together, that would seem impossible. I enjoyed having newbies in the cruiser and even let them pick the seats they wanted. A nice group, they were all headed off to Botswana and exchanged email addresses so will be interested to hear their opinions of other camps.

Some of the "guides" at MM looked like they were barely old enough to shave. In Zambia, you have to pass a rather rigid guiding test before you can become a guide, not sure how much info these "kids" at MM would know. Our guide said they learn as they go. We had a long time guide there who was very knowledgable and informative. I did enjoy his guiding, other than not listening to what we wanted.

I'll detail my experiences in a trip report but for now I'll say I'm glad I experienced MM for all the reviews from here, but it's not my favorite place and won't go back.

I've got to play with my dog and get some sleep!
Aloha.

PredatorBiologist

Welcome back Dennis! I'll be looking forward to your report once you recover from all the travel -- I'm sure it will be very interesting.

I think I'm going to open a new can of worms here, and I feel a little underqualified since I have not been to Mala Mala or even the Sabi Sand but here goes. I appreciate Obrienators description of Bens -- sounds like the kind of guide that I would love to be with. Based on most of the above discussion it seems pathetic to me that it is a promotion to go from tracker to ranger at Mala Mala. If the big selling point is the phenomenal wildlife how is it that they have so many inexperienced guides that they know will not even be working in the profession after two or three years and yet that is the preferred and I presume better compensated position vs. the trackers who must have many years of experience and are the key to delivering the wildlife.

Of course guest relations is a very important part as well and that can be the only reason that the Ranger is the more important position. Mala Mala is an old school operation that has been around for a very long time. How can it be that only two local trackers have been prepared properly to become Rangers. I know some people will always prefer to track and that's great but at most the camps I have ever been to there have been plenty of local people who have wanted to be guides and excel at it. I can't understand why such an important position cannot be filled with mostly career individuals, especially by developing local talent where the economic development is sorely needed. I have read a few reports on Sabi Sand lodges that have emphasized this division of young white rangers dining with guests while the local trackers are not included. I have no problem with the division of labor of the two positions but I have a huge issue with the lack of professional development with local people since ample opportunity exists and the positions are apparently being filled mainly by those that do not even wish to make a career out of guiding.

atravelynn

Welcome home. You were all over the globe!

rickmck

Well put by PB. I hope that, as someone mentioned earlier, MM management really do read these threads and, more importantly, take something from them.

cary999

PB - Here is my take on the role and responsibility of MM rangers. The MM ranger is more than a ranger or guide. They are the primary and most important contact with the guests. MM rangers are as much MM managers as they are rangers. They are really concerned about the guest's total visit at MM. You may have experienced this at other camps and I have. But rarely with sincere concern I feel from the MM rangers. You mention this briefly as "guest relations" and I just wanted to emphasize and expand on it.

As for career guides, I have had a couple of them that should have retired. But like many professionals everywhere they keep guiding because they know nothing else that will provide a living for their family. God bless them.

regards - tom

PredatorBiologist

Tom: I'm glad you clarified that definition rather than my minimal phrase of "guest relations" because that is exactly what I meant by the smaller phrase. I believe in every camp/lodge that I have ever been to the guide has covered the primary role that you just described, but in addition to that they have typically been an experienced expert in flora and fauna too. In all the WS camps they do all that and do not even have the assistance of a tracker (for the record I really despise that policy too).

To follow up on the large personal role of the guide wouldn't it typically be much better to be 'hosted' by someone who has been there for years and knows the history of animals, camps, local people etc. vs. some 22 year old who will be off to an accounting job after less days guiding than guests like Kaye have probably spent over the last decade (exageration but you get the point). I think the extent of the role makes it even more important to have someone who wants to be there for the long haul, and for who it is a great opportunity as opposed to a way to spend a year or two.

Rick: thanks. I hope MM management reads it to and creates or strengthens any existing programs to move in the direction of growing local talent. The long term future of wildlife conservation depends on passing max. benefits to local populations with economic and personal growth. Nothing wrong with some non-locals who have the passion and knowledge being involved in the safari industry but in general the future needs to emphasize the involvement of local communities.

ShellCat

Napamatt-

Where am I going to find your trip report, hope you find this question on this tread as I have no idea where else to ask.

I am one week away from Rattrays-and will make my own judgement call. Having been on many group ski trips, I just want to meet nice people and get some great photos-I am sure this will happen. Thanks again for all the info.

KayeN

Hi PB and others,

To me, the ranger/tracker is a team - both have skills that form part of the team. Keep in mind that the words used by Obienator are his words, not from Bens, so while his job is now a ranger, it is a different job to tracking, not so sure it is more important - but certainly is a lot more time consuming for Bens! I had Bens as a tracker in June 2002, and he barely spoke any English, although I always think that trackers understand a lot more than what they let on! So a huge hurdle for him was to learn to speak English! I have had him for a ranger a few times, and he does get better each time, as he really was quite reserved to begin with, and I have overheard a few guests comment on his quieter personality. But he really is a wonderful ranger,and no-one seems to have his skills when he is chasing after wild dog through bush, that is something that you never forget in so many ways!

I would guess that some of the trackers, especially the older and most experienced do not wish to be rangers - certainly I know of one very experienced tracker at Londo who didn't take to being a ranger, and returned to tracking!


Tom, I am not so sure about asking for a vehicle to one's self and it shall be done! I have tried that on many occasion, never happened! I certainly get the odd drive to myself never a whole stay, so it certainly doesn't hurt to ask I guess, but it will not happen - just the way the cookie crumbled I am guessing!

Also, about the experience of the newer rangers. The way the system at MM works, with rangers coming and going after a few years, is the way it is! I myself do not have a problem with it as what the guys lack in knowledge, they more than make up in enthusiasm. On my last trip, Andrew, Nic and Bruce could not have done any more to make my trip any better. Sure they do not know all the history of all the cats, but what they do not know, they find out and that is fine with me! I had both Chris Daphne and Leon as rangers in the past, and their experience was priceless, but they have moved on and good luck to them, and the young guys that I have had as rangers have never disappointed, and each evening I would go to my room happy with my days work of gameviewing!

Interested to hear who Dennis had as his ranger/tracker team, as he does mention that the ranger has been there a long time! So curious who that could be!

Kind regards

Kaye

scootr29

I am glad someone gave me an opportunity when I was younger. I imagine we can all think of at least one time in our life when someone gave us an opportunity.

napamatt

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...amp;dirtyBit=1

Shellcat - its at this link.

matnikstym

Kaye, We had Graham as guide and Marka as "spotter".
Graham has been there 17 years, on and off and comes back when needed or requested. That man knows everything! He only had to look up one rare bird. Knew the latin names of all the plants.
Marka's a very nice soft-spoken man.
Loved the MalaMala boma singers. The lead singer has the most beautiful voice.

Patty

Welcome back, Dennis!

Nyamera

Karibu nyumbani!

Clematis1

PB, I respect your opinion but honestly, you have to experience MM to see how this works. Most of the rangers are "locals," in the respect that they are not from other countries (the way you'll see SA managers in Bots for example).

Because at MM your ranger is also the guy who holds out your chair and pours your drinks at meals, I prefer it be younger guys. They have plenty of energy and I don't feel guilty. I doubt they go on to be accountants - most of them are so smart and have such a love of animals and conservation. They're also so fresh and far from jaded) that we found them to be very accommodating to our safari-viewing needs.

Other camps are run differently so let MM do its thing. They've been doing it a long time and it really works.

CarlaM

Was just reading MM cyberdiary and it looks like one of the 9 lion cubs has been missing all week

Also they saw 5 male lions (possibly the Eyrefield males )that haven't been seen in 2 yrs at Mala Mala, not good news for the Rollercoaster Male.

CarlaM

http://www.malamala.tv/diary.htm

Meant to post the link. Was looking for a photo of Dennis here with the 22 wild dogs!

napamatt

Read that this morning. If the 5 males decide to take over MM, it will ultimately be very good for the resident prides, but bad news for RCM and the cubs.

Tanky

I've missed most of the posting on this thread. However, my view of Mala Mala deliberately avoided using game viewing as it's defining feature as is advanced by most of the advocates of MM on this forum.

Game viewing is subjective and dependent on variables such as ranger quality, weather, fellow guests and not least the animals themselves.

For example, there is no doubt in my mind that MM current main lion viewing - the Eyrefield pride and it's cubs - it purely because that pride and it's male have been pushed east by the pressure from th 6 male coalition. Without that coalition this pride would be situated mainly in Londolozi...they have far more large resident game (wildebeest and zebra) and indeed the Eyrefield lionesses are more than often hunting over the border Londolozi at night before retiring to MM during daytime.

My main issues are to do with the experience and motivation of the rangers and the organisation\running of the camp. Despite arguments to the contrary CCA ranger training IS regarded in the industry as the best there is in Africa. The fact that the rangers at MM seem to have little faith in their ability on the ground - either in nature walks of their willingness to walk onto lions etc - proved this. Maybe the few experienced guides left at MM are capable of this but the numerous trainees are not.

There were not only South Africans would had barely disguised dismissal of MM. One couple I met went to Sabi Sands five or more times a year and knew all the landowners on a personal basis (Othawa - Mr Robson - are in the process of building a lodge complex at the moment) didn't have much to say about MM apart from the the fact that it is all commercial and self-promotion. It's main market is the UK\US market especially the first-timers. And let's be honest. Any of us could take a game drive on MM and leave first timers in awe of Africa game...as they should be.

napamatt

Shellcat when at Rattrays if you want a refreshing non-alcoholic drink ask Michael to make a Rattrays refresher for you. Tell him Mr.Wood recommended it - he will get a huge kick out of that!

matnikstym

Carla~I think we were the last to see 9 cubs, the next day they were down to 8. I think the 3 moms might have been a bit relieved as the babies were constantly out for some milk and the mom's were getting quite annoyed.
Did see Rollercoaster mating with the female from the other pride. She's quite the enchantress and put on quite a show telling him "I want it NOW!" Even with his leg oozing pus, he performed well!