Cerro Azul

"Aqui esta tranquilo" say the locals, and tranquil it certainly is in this small fishing town, made famous by the Beach Boys' song "Surfin' Safari," between Cañete and Pucusana. The hustle and bustle of the old days, when the town made its living as a port for the exportation of guano and pisco, is long gone and now the only industry you'll see is the fishermen repairing their nets down by the waterfront.

Limeños trickle in on the weekends, arriving as much for the town's charmingly off-beat character as for the peace and quiet. On the weekend the local brass band parades through the streets before and after the church services. The local church, instead of ringing its bell, sets off fireworks in the Plaza de Armas as an unconventional call to prayer.

Walk along the waterfront where fish restaurants dish up deliciously fresh cebiche, then, if you're not too full, scramble over the dunes behind the pink and green former customs house to find what remains of the ancient Inca sea-fort of Huarco. In the evenings head to the Plaza, where several tiny restaurants serve up soups and chifa for a little over S/4.

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