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Most of the archaeological sites on the island line the southeastern coast. Driving along the coast you'll pass many ahus, all of them completely untouched. Busloads of tourists hurry past most of these on their way to Rano Raraku, the quarry where around 400 moai wait in stony silence, and Ahu Tongariki, where 15 moai stand in line.
Hugging the coast on the northwest side of the island is the village of Hanga Roa. About 5,000 people, many of Polynesian descent, make this...