Owner Roberto Loscalzo transformed a 1903 mansion into a remarkable dining space; expansive yet intimate, grandiose yet welcoming. At one end of the room chefs pull Napoli-style pizzas from the three mouths of a two-story brick oven that looms over diners like a cathedral organ. Different place-names lead to different taste combinations: Napoli in Beruit blends goat cheese and za'atar, a spice mixture that includes herbs and sesame seeds, while Napoli in Brasili contains sun-dried meat and Catupiry, the creamy Brazilian cheese invented in Minas Gerais a century ago. If you don't feel like globe-trotting, go for the Do Nonno, topped with juicy grilled tomatoes. A sister branch of Veridiana operates in the Jardins neighborhood. The Higienópolis location is not well marked. The restaurant is directly across from the Iate Clube (Yacht Club) de Santos.