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Preparing for a night out in Buenos Aires has an element of marathon training to it. Rest up with a siesta, fortify yourself with some protein, and drink plenty of fluids before, during, and after. That’s right, the key to porteño nightlife is longevity—after all, an early night means hailing a cab at 6 am.
The scene here rivals that of any capital city, so you’ll find something to suit every taste. Trendy cocktail bars, secret speakeasies, classic tango haunts, artsy watering holes, and packed dance floors await. To make the most of them, try following the locals’ lead.
Painting Buenos Aires red means looking sharp, going with the flow as you bar-hop, and not challenging your new B.A. buddies to raucous drinking games. Porteños adore going out with their friends, but it’s not uncommon to see a large group sharing a liter bottle of beer and swigging from the same glass. Latino lightweights? Not at all. This is just how Argentines roll—and once a night gets really rocking, they'll move onto their favorite tipple, Fernet y Cola.
Hours are relaxed, but there are general guidelines. The smartest bars kick off an evening with happy hours that begin around 8 pm and often stretch way beyond 60 minutes; downtown drinking establishments start even earlier to lure workers to part with hard-earned pesos, spawning the "after-office" across the city, which is now a nightlife fixture almost any day of the week. Theater performances begin around 9 pm and the last movie begins after midnight. By that point, lines to get into popular bars have started forming, but clubs aren’t buzzing until 4 am. If in doubt, turn up later than you consider reasonable when you’re meeting a local (30 minutes after the appointed time is the norm). The subte (subway) closes between 10 and 11 pm, depending on the line and day. Monday through Saturday it reopens at 5 am; on Sunday, however, trains don’t start running again until 8 am. So taking a cab to and from home is a good idea—it’s also quicker than waiting for a colectivo bus very late at night.
A well-curated line-up of live music, film screenings, fun parties, and interactive theater ensures this huge converted factory is one of the best cultural centers in the city. The outdoor space morphs into an inner-city beach complete with hammocks in summer; the winter months see DJs and bands hash it out indoors. The Konex is also home to percussion band Bomba de tiempo, which plays every Monday evening.
Lurking beneath Aldo's Vinoteca Restorán, this new musical hot spot is led by sommelier and owner Aldo Graziani. A huge jazz fan, he makes sure that the offbeats are well paired with fine wine and tasty bar food.
An older, artsy crowd gathers here for live jazz complemented by dinner, drinks, and a dash of philosophy. Musicians make good use of the vintage venue’s grand piano, while singers offer their take on the bossa nova, tango, and bolero. Bibliophiles will appreciate the on-site bookshop that stocks great Argentine literature.
Excellent local musicians put on daily performances of tango classics in the downstairs salon of this legendary café, but note that ticket prices can be steeper than average because of the venue's illustrious history. There's jazz sometimes on weekends, too.
Exquisite art deco theaters line Avenida Corrientes, but the rationalist-style Gran Rex—constructed by architect Alberto Prebisch, of the Obelisk fame—is a favorite venue for rock, pop, and jazz musicians. Recent acts that have tested its great acoustics include Coldplay and the legendary Peter Frampton. Tickets are available through Ticketek (wwww.ticketek.com.ar).
This nightclub, which doubles as a live music venue, may be oddly shaped for spot-on acoustics; however, it attracts plenty of underground and international artists. Weekly parties, metal bands, and European electronic combos form the changing lineup.
Take advantage of happy hour until 10 pm at La Cigale's curvaceously seductive first-floor bar, which leads to the street-side balcony and smokers' corner. Another flight of stairs winds up to the stage, ready and waiting for local indie, jazz, and acoustic bands any night of the week.
There's nothing pretentious about this place: laid-back groups gather to enjoy traditional Argentine folk music and hand-held foods like empanadas and tamales. The exposed-brick walls are adorned with rustic memorabilia, including guitars that you're welcome to play if so inspired.
A San Telmo institution, this cabaret-style club is one of Buenos Aires’ most popular venues, so grab a table and enjoy an intimate performance for 900. La Trastienda is the place to catch electrotango or new tango groups, although it takes pains to promote other genres as well. Check out national pop and rock legends, as well as local rock, reggae, and funk.
Named after the tall cactus plants that typify northwest Argentina, Los Cardones is the place to go for a beer around a big table with strangers you'll get to know by the end of the night. Spontaneous dancing at this peña folklorica isn't unheard of; to prepare, ask ahead about their folk-dancing classes.
This indoor stadium at the very top of Corrientes Avenue has been hosting boxing events, ice-skating spectaculars, political rallies, plus rock and pop concerts for more than 80 years. Local acts dominate, but international ones—like Simply Red and Lily Allen—also play here. Tickets normally need to be bought well in advance from the box office or from Ticketportal (wwww.ticketportal.com.ar).
This spacious theater and cultural space mainly showcases midlevel local bands, showmen, and comedians, with a few big Argentine names thrown in for good measure. Get tickets at the box office (open Monday–Saturday, from noon to 8) or through Ticketek ( www.ticketek.com.ar).
A barely marked door and a narrow passageway open into a world far removed from the flashy bars and restaurants surrounding this music venue. The eclectic programming includes a wide range of folk, tango, jazz, classical, and improvised music as well as some politically charged theatrical performances. Grab the sofa if you can, for maximum comfort.
A jazz bar, restaurant, and record shop rolled into one, Notorious often hosts top musicians. You can also listen to the club's extensive music collection on the CD players at each table.
The best porteño jazz bands (and occasional foreign imports) play at this upscale spot. Arrive early for a good seat, as it's a long, narrow bar and not all tables have good views; on weekends there are usually two shows per night.
This is an intimate art deco venue for local jazz maestros and appreciative audiences. It's a great space and you can get up close and personal with the musicians, who draw from a deep well of talent and cover a lot of ground, from improv to standards and experimental.
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