Fodor's Expert Review Bibiana Osteria and Enoteca

You might call this the Italian version of the uberpopular Indian spot Rasika, and you'd be correctly noting the modernist fingerprints of local impresario Ashok Bajaj. The 120-seat dining room, decorated in Bajaj's favored spare tones and metallic accents, specializes in hearty Italian cuisine dished out by uncommonly attentive and knowledgeable servers. In a city where Italian spots too often hit obvious notes, Bibiana's sophisticated presentations include ribbon pasta in wild boar ragù and squid-ink gnocchi with Maine lobster. The surroundings may be rich, but the ample portions and sensible offerings (like the lunch special or weekday happy hour) make for a more reasonable splurge.