Fodor's Expert Review Ristorante Tre Scalini

When this restaurant in South Philadelphia, a locus of down-home Italian, moved from a cozy town house to a generic storefront down the street, patrons worried that the food would suffer. Happily the old favorites, which are more homey than trendy, are intact. Signature dishes like the grilled polenta with broccoli rabe and bruschetta calamari with cannellini beans are carefully prepared and amply plated. Pasta dishes—such as lobster- and cheese-filled ravioli and black pasta with prawns and crabmeat—are best.