Pinstripe suits, dark paneling, Persian rugs, and waiters in white jackets give this single-location steak house a posh demeanor. The food is anything but predictable, with dishes such as seasonally dressed tartars (steak and tuna) and weekly cuts of all-natural beef like the 14-ounce dry-aged New York sirloin. Seafood specialties such as spicy scallops with mushroom dumplings and baby artichokes give beef sales a run for their money. Desserts, such as the decadent Valrhona
chocolate layer cake, rank far above those of the average steak house. Make sure to leave room.