Sometimes you want celebrity chef–made regional Mexican, and sometimes you just want a really good taco. For the latter, as well as zesty margaritas, a convivial setting, and lick-the-mortar-clean guacamole, grab a table at De Cero, the Mexican standout on Randolph Street's restaurant row. The highlight of the menu is the taco list. Each of 21 tacos is priced individually and made to order for a mix-and-match meal. Top choices include chipotle chicken, duck confit with corn salsa, and battered catfish with jalapeño jicama honey slaw, chipotle mayo, and cilantro. The restaurant is wood-tables-and-benches casual and can get loud; beat the crowds by phoning ahead for reservations, especially on weekends.