Fodor's Expert Review Barbacoa

In some corners gaudy and Gothic, in others plush and exotic, and still others practically medieval, the detail in this remodeled restaurant is otherworldly. Wander under the glowing wine tunnel, past a wiry-haired Medusa, or head upstairs to the open-air Luna Bar and shisha-style Taz Lounge with views of the water. On hot summer days, you can sit on the deck and sip an “ice-tini” from a glass made of ice; at any time, you can enjoy hefty portions of South American–style barbecue, like the fillet with cognac sauce grilled on hot river rock. For dessert, try the ice-cream lollipop tree or glowing cotton-candy cake.