The Nakagawa family has been running this eatery since the early 1920s. The latest son to manage it has transformed both the menu and the decor, and that, paired with the setting (on a 30-acre natural, brackish fishpond) makes this one of the most interesting places to eat in Hilo. Islanders travel great distances for the fried aholehole (young Hawaiian flagtail), and mullet raised at the aqua farm (they will catch it for you that day if you call ahead). Other great dishes from the sea include furikake salmon, miso butterfish, and macadamia nut–crusted mahimahi, but the Pacific Rim menu includes plenty for landlubbers, too, like prime rib, chicken, and salads. Arrive before sunset and request a table by the window for a view of egrets roosting around the fishpond.
1790 Kalanianaole Ave., Hilo, Hawaii, 96720, United States