Blink and you'll miss this place. Chef-owner Dennis Leary has transformed this narrow coffee shop into one of the most sought-after dinner reservations in town. The homey place has just 20 counter seats and a quartet of wooden booths. But that's all Leary, with a modest open kitchen and just a single assistant, can handle. The dinner menu, which changes often, offers only four first courses, four mains, and three desserts. A typical meal might start with a delicious slab of pork belly atop pickled vegetables, followed by pork tenderloin confit with red cabbage and prunes, and then a rich vanilla soufflé. Because this is a one-man band, your food arrives at a leisurely pace. If a dinner reservation is elusive, try for breakfast; it's served daily.
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