Sommelier David Lynch is behind this modern-day American tavern with a Bay Area spin. Previously at Babbo in New York and Quince in San Francisco, Lynch has put together a list of mostly European wines, with an innovative half-bottle program, and chef Bill Niles, formerly of Bar Tartine, creates rustic upscale food to accompany them. On the snacky side of things, we challenge you to eat just one curried, pickled egg. These starters are outrageously good, as is the hand-rolled pretzel, and the dry-aged sirloin for two comes with some of the best gratin potatoes known to man. This is lick-your-plate-clean food served in a welcoming, somewhat noisy place (wood surfaces, soaring ceilings) where Lynch himself will suggest a wine, or cicerone Sayre Piotrkowski will pair a beer with dinner or dessert. Winning seats are at the zinc-topped bar, where you can bend the ear of both men. They also run a retail wine business.