San Miguel de Allende

You've heard San Miguel de Allende is an artists' retreat, where the beauty of the surroundings coupled with the inspired bent of those who seem to be drawn here, result in proliferation of all things creative. There are literary readings, art shows, annual chamber music and jazz festivals, as well as yoga classes.

Despite the city's offerings, those who have spent a lot of time in Mexico find it hard to stomach what has now become a never-ending parade of yuppie tourists and a U.S.-dollar-driven economy. For travel novices, San Miguel's Disneyish qualities can make it a painless entry-level experience, a Mexico Lite practically free from concerns about health, safety, culture clash, and language. But even newcomers to Mexico shouldn't make the mistake of spending their whole trip here; there are more authentic, if slightly less cute, Mexican experiences to be had in the Heartland's many other beautiful cities.

The city began luring foreigners in the late 1930s, when American Stirling Dickinson and prominent local residents founded an art school in this mountainous settlement. The school, now called the Instituto Allende, has grown in stature over the years—as has the city's reputation as a writers' and artists' colony. On any cobblestone street you'll run into expats of all nationalities, but particularly Americans and Canadians. Some come to study at the Instituto Allende or the Academia Hispano-Americana, some to escape harsh northern winters, and still others to retire.

San Miguel, declared a national monument in 1926, retains its Mexican characteristics. Eighteenth-century mansions, fountains, monuments, and churches are all reminders of the city's illustrious and sometimes notorious past. At the corner of Calles Hernández Macías and Pila Seca, for example, is the onetime headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition in New Spain. The former Inquisition jail stands across the way.

A great way to get your bearings is to take a spin on San Miguel's trolleybus that departs every two hours from the Municipal Tourism Office in the Jardín from 10 AM to 8 PM. The trolley's route will let you see most of the town, including a stop at the Mirador overlook, where you'll have a spectacular view of San Miguel, especially at sunset. The trolley runs Thursday through Tuesday and the fare is $6.

Bear in mind that the city is more than a mile above sea level, so you might tire quickly during your first few days if you aren't accustomed to high altitudes. Also, the streets are paved with rugged cobblestones, and narrow sidewalks are paved with stones that can get very slippery when wet. Most of San Miguel's sights are in a cluster downtown, which you can visit in a couple of hours.

Independence Day, celebrated on September 15 and 16, is San Miguel's biggest fiesta, with fireworks, dances, and parades; bullfights and cultural events fill out the remainder of the month.