Caribbean Coast Places

Photo: © 2008 Jo Ann Snover

Tulum

Tulum, which means "wall" in Mayan, is a quickly growing town built near the spectacular ruins that draw most visitors here. But its charm extends past the famous ruins: Pristine beaches, $10 cabanas, and open-air markets explain the town's increasing popularity with travelers. The town is divided into three main sections: the archaeological site, the pueblo (town), and Zona Hotelera, the hotel area.

The Tulum site itself is the Yucatán Peninsula's most-visited Mayan ruin, attracting more than 2 million people annually. Though most of the architecture is of unremarkable postclassic (1000-1521) style, the amount of attention that Tulum receives is not entirely undeserved. Its location—on a beach known for its sugar-white sand, by the blue-green Caribbean—is breathtaking.

Carretera 307, the main thoroughfare, runs through the pueblo and is lined with dozens of food stalls, souvenir shops, budget hotels, and nightlife spots. If you stay in this part of town, you'll be close to the ruins, though you'll sacrifice a beach view. You can walk the 2 km (1 mi) to the park entrance, or catch one of the shuttles that pass every few minutes.

A mile east of Carretera 307 you'll find the more relaxed Zona Hotelera, where a string of rustic cabanas, colorful cafés, and palapa boutiques line the beach. This secluded area is growing rapidly, and now has Internet cafés, organic restaurants, luxury accommodations, holistic centers, and spas. A number of eco-resorts, which rely on wind turbines, solar renewable energy, recycled water, and generators and/or candlelight, have sprung up along Tulum's coastline. Beaches south of the hotel zone tend to be less rocky and more secluded than the northern beaches, although it's almost impossible to find a bad stretch of sand in Tulum.

Small-town facilities such as grocery stores and pharmacies are available in Tulum Pueblo, but the nearest hospital is 45 minutes north in Playa del Carmen. Buses don't serve the hotel zone, so travelers must rely on taxis, cars, or bikes to get around. Although the area is generally safe, walking around at night is not recommended because there are no street lamps in this part of town. At the time of writing, a sidewalk was being constructed. If you plan on driving, watch carefully for the large beach crabs that cross the roads after dark.