Cheese: Fribourg's Calling Card
A traveler cruising Switzerland's emerald hills and villages far from industrial turf can't help but notice the damp, fresh, earthy ephemera of the dairy that hangs in the air—a mild, musky tang that scents the cream, thickens the chocolate, and alchemizes the cheese.
Nowhere else will you smell this as strongly as in the region of Fribourg—the area that gave birth to the famous cheese Gruyère, a main component of fondue. This region also sits shoulder to shoulder with two other areas that give us great cheeses: Emmental (near Bern) and the Jura Mountains, where Tête de Moine comes from.
As always, Swiss cheese is most delightfully experienced in that most satisfying of all Swiss dishes, fondue, which first became fashionable in America during the 1950s ski craze. Those who have not acquired the habit may feel uncomfortably replete after only a few mouthfuls.
Crème-Double de la Gruyère
In the Fribourg countryside is another dairy delight. Crème-double, a Gruyère specialty, rivals Devonshire cream. The rich, extra-thick, high-fat cream—without whipping—almost supports a standing spoon; it is served in tiny carved-wood baquets (vats), to be spooned over bowls of berries and meringues.
Dairy Trail
In the Gruyère region and surrounding mountains, cattle head uphill in summer, and production of local cheeses—the firm, fragrant Gruyère and Vacherin—soars. They are sold at various stages: young and mild, ripe and savory, or aged to a heady tang. The great commercial cheese factory of Gruyère may have an automated, cheese-turning robot, but the hills of Fribourg still prefer old copper pots sizzling over wood fires.
The Sentier des Fromageries is an excellent walking path that connects the dairies in Pringy-Moléson. Two routes are available, but each begins at the Maison du Gruyère(3 pl. de la Gare 026/9218400 www.lamaisondugruyere.ch) and ends at the lofty Fromagerie d'Alpage (Moléson-sur-Gruyères 026/9211044 www.fromagerie-alpage.ch) in Moléson-Village. The Maison du Gruyère stands in the meadows that lie below the Château de Gruyères. It's both a museum and a demonstration dairy, and you can learn the history of the famous cheese and how it retains its AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) standing. Several times a day, from 9 to 11 and 12:30 to 2:30, the cheese makers open their doors and welcome you to their wonderfully pungent world. At the end of the trail at Fromagerie d'Alpage, you can assist in the cheese-making process if you reserve in advance (May to September only). Cheese-making demonstrations are held at 10 am daily. For more information on the Sentier des Fromageries, see the Gruyère Tourism site at www.la-gruyere.ch.
Off the Beaten Path
Halfway between the mountain pass that connects Schwarzsee with Charmey, Alp Balisa (Schwarzsee 026/4121295 www.alpbalisa.ch) is a small family-run dairy that operates all summer long. It may be out of the way, but it has a reputation as one of the most charming in Switzerland.
Fondue
Though fondue is de rigueur in any Alpine setting, Fribourg has a fanatical stronghold. The recipe is surprisingly simple—cheese melted together with white wine, garlic, and a dash of kirsch (brandy distilled from cherries). Aficionados debate the perfect blend of cheeses and whether to include mushrooms or tomatoes. Fribourg is the source of fondue fribourgeoise, the combination of the canton's two greatest cheeses—Gruyère and Vacherin Fribourgeois—into a creamy moitié-moitié (half-and-half) blend. The Vacherin can be melted alone for an even creamier fondue, and potatoes can be dipped instead of bread. Eat like a local and head to Fribourg’s Café du Midi (25 rue de Romont 026/3223133 www.lemidi.ch), Bulle’s Café de la Gare (6 av. de la Gare 026/9127688), or Café Tivoli (18 pl. d'Armes 021/9487039 www.cafetivoli.ch) in Châtel-St-Denis, all of which are famous for their hospitality, decor, and, most of all, their fabulous fondue.
